Quoted from Kolchak357:Is there any difference in scoring between the machine being set to a 3 ball game vs a 5 ball game?
Logically (functionally), I don't see how anything could score differently.
Quoted from Kolchak357:Is there any difference in scoring between the machine being set to a 3 ball game vs a 5 ball game?
Logically (functionally), I don't see how anything could score differently.
#4349, collector quality.
Yes, I know the Bally decal is not stock and offset from period, but it seemed naked without one.
Backglass are built like a tank as mentioned, but even with a repo on wall, I Krylon tripled thicked it anyway a while back.
I am not losing an original glass, like I did over 15 years ago from a spare.
I decided to bring it out and set it up in my office this week.
Been sitting idle...
Modified for power switch and 3 ball jones plug free play.
Amazing that the tune up did not take long.
It had been a while.
I really need to install a new playfield glass on this machine at some point.
Quoted from Kolchak357:Is there any difference in scoring between the machine being set to a 3 ball game vs a 5 ball game?
No, scoring and ruleset is unchanged.
The only difference you can do is replay levels.
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:Question for other Fireball owners. The plastic covers on the bulbs in the ball arch....(4 or 5 of them) Are they yellow or amber Bally Part # C-615 or Gottlieb part # GTB - 24410N...When I was ordering from Steve at PBR he said that Bally did not have amber colored ones in game sin 1972. Instead of arguing with him I ended up ordering 6 of each color both amber and yellow. His response was "It's your money!" Can someone take one of theirs out or be able to tell me exactly what color they are. Also how many bulbs are covered underneath the top arch. Is it 5 covers? 6 covers?
-Dan
Hey Dan. Your post got me thinking. I called Steve at PBR as well and ordered the red sleeves as shown in the original Fireball flier. I was missing three sleeves and the ones that were left were faded yellow/clear. Anyway, I put the new red ones in and they looked OK, but seemed washed out somewhat with the white lights (I swapped out the regular bulbs with LED's). So, I got an order of RED LED's and put them in instead, and kept the new sleeves in for the original retro look. I thought it came out great. Looks just like the original Fireball sales brochure.
The photos don't do it justice as I took these during the day, but they look shit hot at night. Cyrus
They're out there. I'll still occasionally see attainable project machines with good glass/playfield in the $1600-ish range.
Quoted from vid1900:Those 43 year old FB backglasses seem to be screened super solid.
The 30 year old FB Classic backglasses are ALWAYS faded completely or peeling like a sonobitch.
Must have changed to a cheaper ink formula.......
In 1978, Bally changed to their in-house UV curing ink glass screening process. Prior to that, they used warm air to cure the inks used on the glass. UV Inks cure in seconds saving a lot of time. They actually started to outsource their slot glass to Sunkist Graphics in Henderson, Nevada almost 15 years ago.
Quoted from NicoVolta:They're out there. I'll still occasionally see attainable project machines with good glass/playfield in the $1600-ish range.
The problem is "planking" and dirt "ball swirl" nearly impossible to remove or fix on project machines.
Similar to what you see in original Black Knight machines that got played to hell.
Lacquer "tuff coat" and paint PF flaking can be common too along with sunken inserts from heat, playfield chipping around the spinner due to improper leveling, and busted plastics.
Warping of the playfield surface (not the skill shot) from the "cheater bars" is also a problem.
Age, fluctuating moisture levels, very dry or wet environments take their toll.
Superb+ examples are very hard to find now.
My point is project machines are problematic, and you really have to take a close look of the potential.
"You can polish a turd to a high shine, but it is still a turd".
Many are not "diamonds in the rough", but definitely some can be saved with touch up and clear coat.
Hopefully, the rest of the parts are still there.
I wish CPR (or somebody) would reproduce the plastic set (clear and color) to make games look near near.
I already have scanned mine for a special set of protectors I used, as I am NOT looking for game plastics for this title.
Nobody's clear plastics are "perfect" now due to bulb heat and light yellowing, which I have considered having reproduced as a "one run".
If I decide to do that, I will let people know here, and where to get them as I have not scanned them, and they are not the same sizes as the actual plastics.
I seem to remember somebody reproducing a full set, but that was well over a decade ago.
Quoted from NicoVolta:They're out there. I'll still occasionally see attainable project machines with good glass/playfield in the $1600-ish range.
There is one FS (not mine!!) in North Carolina on Mr Pinball Classified.
Asking $2k for a "Beautiful game that plays as well as it looks, has a very nice cabinet, backglass and playfield and works 100%"
Have not checked - no picture.
http://user.xmission.com/~daina/classified/data/machines_for_sale_recent.html
I would go to around 1600 but it should be in good shape. They don't come up around here often. The NC is a rare popup. 2K seems high but what do I know.
Quoted from Cyrus:The photos don't do it justice as I took these during the day, but they look shit hot at night. Cyrus
Thats awesome man! One of these days I will try it out.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:Yes, I know the Bally decal is not stock and offset from period, but it seemed naked without one.
I gave much thought to doing this myself but decided against it. Nice machine man! Looks like the twin of mine.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:Superb+ examples are very hard to find now.
My point is project machines are problematic, and you really have to take a close look of the potential.
"You can polish a turd to a high shine, but it is still a turd".
Agreed on so many levels. Another favorite saying I have is... "You can put lipstick on a pig but it will still be a pig."
Oh and this happened at Texas Pinball Festival! Best of show! Not bad for a 44 year old machine!
Our favorite machine is getting pooped on by some people. It is being called "Overrated" "boring" etc. Its time to get into that posting and post your true feelings about this machine. I posted a direct link below.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fireball-ranked-35#post-3060256
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:Our favorite machine is getting pooped on by some people. It is being called "Overrated" "boring" etc. Its time to get into that posting and post your true feelings about this machine.
Another famous quote:
"You cannot teach a rock how to swim".
The more time a person spends collecting/restoring/playing pinball together as a whole, the sooner the opinion changes.
Eventually.
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:I was wondering what replay settings / card are you guys all using in your Fireball machines. Right now my replays are set at 62,000 / 77,000 and 90,000 (5 ball) seems high.
I have mine at 40K, 51K, 62K, 73K (set on 5 ball).
Whenever I play, the goal is to get 40K. I do enjoy winning replays, even when the games are free.
My game came with a handful of original scorecards. I don't know if one of them is the recommended default scores from Bally. The lowest is 25K, 35K, 45K, 55K (3ball). The highest is the one you are using.
Quoted from Ace24:I have mine at 40K, 51K, 62K, 73K (set on 5 ball).
Whenever I play, the goal is to get 40K. I do enjoy winning replays, even when the games are free.
Thanks for the info. I may just look into lowering it. I would like to get the replay knocker going more often.
So, I have an ongoing search on EBAY for anything "Fireball Pinball" to see what people are selling that might relate to our game. I'm holding out hope that someday somebody will start selling new plastics!
Someone listed a 1972 Fireball with the starting price of $12K. The game looks like it is in great condition...but I got mine in decent shape for $1800. I guess if you have the money to burn, have at it. I've just never seen one listed for over $3.5K before.
ebay.com link: Fireball Bally Pinball Machine Coin Op Electromechani wbr cal 1972 Home Use Only
eBay pricing has often been too high to justify but nowadays it seems every ad is aiming for pie-in-the-sky prices. Sheesh!
It is a very nice Fireball indeed, but he should be happy to get $5k-$6 maximum for it (possible, but typically $3k-$4k this nice). They aren't especially rare. And even if HUO, it still has the same crappy Bally staple-down backbox lamp sockets which is a huge PITA to replace them all.
A similarly nice Gemini recently sold for about $7k. Highly sought-after and production run was less than 8% of Fireball's total. So $12k is pure crack pipe dreaming.
Quoted from NicoVolta:And even if HUO, it still has the same crappy Bally staple-down backbox lamp sockets which is a huge PITA to replace them all.
Yep. I replaced all my lights with LED's after I got the pin (slow process). I saved the staple-downs for last. I guess in 1972 they were high-tech.
Random tip: If you want the new backbox sockets to have the same depth as before (recommended to prevent lamps hovering too close to the glass)... use 1/2" bracket lamp sockets. Which will necessitate floating several of the underlying mechs and jones connectors with wood standoffs to accommodate the extra height. Huge, huge PITA. But you'll feel like your Fireball is the best & brightest in the world afterward.
Done thus far: Expressway and Grand Tour. Still to go... Skyrocket, Dixieland, and Fireball. Uggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Quoted from Cyrus:So, I have an ongoing search on EBAY for anything "Fireball Pinball" to see what people are selling that might relate to our game. I'm holding out hope that someday somebody will start selling new plastics!
Someone listed a 1972 Fireball with the starting price of $12K. The game looks like it is in great condition...but I got mine in decent shape for $1800. I guess if you have the money to burn, have at it. I've just never seen one listed for over $3.5K before.
ebay.com link » Fireball Bally Pinball Machine Coin Op Electromechani Wbr Cal 1972 Home Use Only
Not a SINGLE photo of the inside of the lower cabinet, backbox, or game meter. I should be able to eat off the inside for that price. Roughly 3-4x the value of a collector quality FB.
The plastics were repoed by Alan Meyer? (cannot remember) over 10 years ago. Ink screened only, no clears. Never a playfield.
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:Time to bump this thread. Need more love shown for this game.
if anyone want to join the club, I have a restored one. mint bg, nice pf with some minor touchups, cabinet repainted to like new, pop and flippers rebuilt with new coils, new pf glass, new coin door. original plastics are good with only 2 with small cracks "BUT"
game comes with a Repro plastic set (both screened and clear) asking 3000 but open to offers
Can anyone comment on the quality of the CPR repro backglasses? The CPR Flash Gordons had bad skin tones and many people don't like them. Just want to see if the ones for fireball are good.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Can anyone comment on the quality of the CPR repro backglasses? The CPR Flash Gordons had bad skin tones and many people don't like them. Just want to see if the ones for fireball are good.
The CPR reproduction is nearly spot one in this case.
I have an original in my game, and reproduction on my wall.
No significant difference.
These were solid colors, and did not have bleeding problems.
Hey guys. Question: I have three "wear" marks on my Fireball that are bugging me (they came with the game when I bought it a few years ago). One is at the exit of the ramp when you launch the ball (if you miss the skill shot) and the other two are both to the left of the upper pop bumpers. They are not big, and I do wax the table, but I'm thinking about putting some mylar down to protect these spots from further degradation. I'm just a little weary about putting mylar on such a classic table. I had no problem doing it with some of the minor wear spots on my Grand Lizard, but the Fireball is a classic and I don't want to take away from that. I don't play the machine a lot (I have eight other pins to include five games I bought NIB over the last few years) so the wear and tear on the table these days is minimum, but it just seems to me I should do something about it.
Have any of you faced this issue and what did you do? I use carnauba wax on my tables but the wear spots on Fire Ball, while relatively small, are eating into the play field. Mylar seems like a quick fix but will I be committing sacrilege? Cyrus
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Can anyone comment on the quality of the CPR repro backglasses? The CPR Flash Gordons had bad skin tones and many people don't like them. Just want to see if the ones for fireball are good.
I believe I saw them at the York, PA show last October. I was looking at the Fire Ball back glasses and decided mine was still in great condition so no need to replace. They looked fine to me and I would not have been able to tell the repro from the original, but that was without it being mounted and back lit.... This year I will probably get a CPR for my Space Mission. Cyrus
Quoted from Cyrus:I believe I saw them at the York, PA show last October. I was looking at the Fire Ball back glasses and decided mine was still in great condition so no need to replace. They looked fine to me and I would not have been able to tell the repro from the original, but that was without it being mounted and back lit.... This year I will probably get a CPR for my Space Mission. Cyrus
The repros are fine, but to not be able to tell the difference means you weren't looking. When released CPR stated they changed the flames at the bottom because their artist "did it better" than the original.
Quoted from Quarterwaster:The repros are fine, but to not be able to tell the difference means you weren't looking. When released CPR stated they changed the flames at the bottom because their artist "did it better" than the original.
I was at a show and did not have the original to compare. What I saw looked very good and that's what I was referencing. Next time I'll hand carry all my back glasses with me so I don't make the same mistake!
Quoted from Cyrus:I believe I saw them at the York, PA show last October. I was looking at the Fire Ball back glasses and decided mine was still in great condition so no need to replace. They looked fine to me and I would not have been able to tell the repro from the original, but that was without it being mounted and back lit.... This year I will probably get a CPR for my Space Mission. Cyrus
I think the Space Mission from CPR is terrible.
Way to dark.
I bought one and their plastics but was really very disappointed with the glass.
I bought another BG from http://bgresto.com/ it is beautiful.
An owner should not need mylar on a Fireball. Just repaint and seal the areas with a tiny bit of clear coat. It comes in small automotive bottles, but I recommend a cut down sponge rather than the included bottle brush.
Quoted from wolftownjeff:I think the Space Mission from CPR is terrible.
Way to dark.
I bought one and their plastics but was really very disappointed with the glass.
I bought another BG from http://bgresto.com/ it is beautiful.
Glad you like it. I might have had something to do with the first scan of the Space Mission glass....
Quoted from wolftownjeff:I think the Space Mission from CPR is terrible.
Way to dark.
I bought one and their plastics but was really very disappointed with the glass.
I bought another BG from http://bgresto.com/ it is beautiful.
A lot of Space Mission back glasses have really bad flaking. Mine is not too bad; I've seen a lot worse. I guess when comparing a beat up back glass with a new CPR then CPR is the better option. But agree on the bgresto glasses. Sometimes at the shows you are limited as to what is available, someone gives you a deal, and you go with it.
I would like to join this club. I missed on one in Central WI a few years back and try to work on the guy that git it everytime I see him
I am happy to pay a fair price for a nice example in my area.
I'm in. Did the original game come with polished chrome legs, or a flat dark gray? Personally, I think chrome would look cool, but I don't think it was original.
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:The original drawing that started it all. What I would give to have this framed on my wall!
What's strange is their is no pictures of Ted Zale anywhere whatsoever, none in any books or on the net.
Brothers I need some help. Just picked up a Fireball and have found a rather ugly 00-90 Unit in the backbox. I could use to see a few pics of yours including what coil goes there, and what the cam and plunger should actually look like....you know when not burned to a crisp! Thanks!
Quoted from seshpilot:Brothers I need some help. Just picked up a Fireball and have found a rather ugly 00-90 Unit in the backbox. I could use to see a few pics of yours including what coil goes there, and what the cam and plunger should actually look like....you know when not burned to a crisp! Thanks!
Mine are toasted and in need of changing too.
The coil should be the same as in the stepper above it
Quoted from Chitownpinball:God I love this game but its just SO EXPENSIVE.
Compared to what a lot of other, less funner games sell for, it's a great value!
Man, I've got a few parts I need to buy but have no idea what the part numbers are. How do you find part #s for these old EM games when there's no parts manual? Thanks
Quoted from seshpilot:Man, I've got a few parts I need to buy but have no idea what the part numbers are. How do you find part #s for these old EM games when there's no parts manual? Thanks
There IS a parts catalog; Online and free. www.planetarypinball.com
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:The CPR reproduction is nearly spot on in this case.
No, just the opposite.
It's not right at all:
af1d85d594eba957c0d1890c6203d4bf13cdd882 (resized).png
e7d55d07611f1304fc6dce5432a62a3d21d6e752 (resized).png
Quoted from Cyrus:Hey guys. Question: I have three "wear" marks on my Fireball that are bugging me (they came with the game when I bought it a few years ago). One is at the exit of the ramp when you launch the ball (if you miss the skill shot) and the other two are both to the left of the upper pop bumpers. They are not big, and I do wax the table, but I'm thinking about putting some mylar down to protect these spots from further degradation. I'm just a little weary about putting mylar on such a classic table.
Have any of you faced this issue and what did you do? I use carnauba wax on my tables but the wear spots on Fire Ball, while relatively small, are eating into the play field. Mylar seems like a quick fix but will I be committing sacrilege? Cyrus
Not sacrilege at all.
You NEED Mylar at the bottom of the "missed skill shot ramp" on both Fireball and Fireball Classic, or the ball will wear a hole (like it does on probably 99% of the Fireballs in the world).
Even on games I restore and clearcoat, I always Mylar this notorious wear spot.
Wax before you install the Mylar, so it can be easily removed for full restoration in the future.
Read this funny Fireball customer complaint when I restored their playfield a few years ago:
Quoted from vid1900:No, just the opposite.
It's not right at all:
I think it may have some German ancestry. It's like a hybrid of the glasses.
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