(Topic ID: 124581)

62v gone on DMD board - just use ColorDMD?

By Shastings

8 years ago


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    #1 8 years ago

    I recently took my ColorDMD out of my TAF (so I could try it in another machine) and put in the old orange DMD - which remained blank. I found that the 62V pin was reading 0V.
    My question is: should I have the DMD board fixed or replaced, or can I just put the ColorDMD back in (as it doesn't use the 62V power supply)? Does the fact that the 62V isn't working mean further damage to the board could be done?
    I don't really want to leave it unfixed, but then again I have no repair skills myself and if everything is fine with the ColorDMD in there then I'll probably happy - just don't want further damage to happen.
    Thanks for any help.

    #5 8 years ago

    Thanks for the responses, that's good to hear.
    The other game is WH20. Not as good I feel in color so I think I'll just put the old one back in it rather than stumping up for a second, and the ColorDMD will find it's way back to it's home in Gomez's mansion.
    Atomicboy - I'm guessing taking out the fuses will guarantee against any inadvertent damage, and as the high power isn't needed any more there is no reason for the fuses to be there anyway?

    #8 8 years ago

    Yes F601 and F602 tested good. I might put new ones in just to make sure.
    One thing I am going to check tonight is the power input onto the board which I think is at J605-1 and J605-2 for the 62V output and should be 80V AC.

    #22 8 years ago
    Quoted from zaza:

    Not so much to repair, 62V circuit in green color.
    But I would just pull J605 instead of pulling the fuses when using a colorDMD.

    Thanks, useful diagram. I'll get all those components replaced. I suspect R12 and/or R3 are shot as I couldn't get a read on either when I quickly checked this morning (I realise one of them can't be tested in circuit).

    In the meantime I've put my WH20 'good' board in my TAF and got the DMD back (proving that it's a board problem and not the inputs or anything else) and put the TAF board in the WH20 with the ColorDMD which is also working.

    #23 8 years ago

    I tested J605-1 and -2 and got around 40V (instaed of 80V in the manual) and around 60V on the other pins (J605-4 and -5) instead of 100V in the manual. Is this a problem? I got this reading in both my WH2O board (the good one) and TAF (the bad board)

    #25 8 years ago

    Yes, measured from GND to the 605 connectors.
    Wrong thing to do for AC it seems - I'm a newbie.
    Thanks

    #28 8 years ago

    Aye aye captain. I'd send it to Chris but the 20,000km distance makes it impractical.
    What's your view of non-pinball electronics doing these rebuilds? Got a guy who I can take it to in my lunch break. He specialises in fixing phone circuit boards and other consumer electronics items. If I took him the page from the manual listing the components do you think he'd do a good job. I could find a specialist pinball guy but I'd have to pack it in the mail.

    #30 8 years ago

    Just in case I sell it one day and swap the old orange DMD back in - but it's good to hear I can use the CooorDMD with no problem. Thanks for all the comments.
    I'll take some pics soon, just become busy with other stuff for the minute.

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