Put the color DMD in.

It won't cause more damage because the high power is unplugged.

LTG : )™

Hell ya, leave the Colordmd in TAF. Enjoy the color animations.

What was the other game you were trying it in?

Rebuild the board, $5, or if you want to use it with the colordmd, pull the fuses.

Yes.

It could be something super simple on that board killing the 62v circuit, guessing you checked the HV fuses etc?

I don't know enough to say for sure about that machine, but should there not be 3 fuses? on the DMD for the Gottlieb Stargate machine i just had a similar issue, i tested what i could, and just had nothing on the 62v circuit, the 5v and 12v were fine, and i thought i had all the fuses good, so i rebuild the board, no change, turned out to be an extra fuse under the playfield area, under a plastic cover, where the 240v transformers were.

Edited...
If it is a fuse, it's F601.

It's typical for the 62V side to die. That area takes a lot of heat. Easy to rebuild if you know how. Some traces may require jumpers.

I can fix it for you if you'd like.
Drop me a PM.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

My machine must work differently, so don't listen to me

Maybe the same problem:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dmd-not-working-no-62v-on-dirty-harry

Switch the dmd driver board over from your ww to your taf, if you just want to test the colordmd for a while and see when you like it.

If you do and you leave it in for a longer time, you can have the dmd board repairded and switch back, if the matching serial numbers are that important for you..
If you don't like it and put the colordmd back in your taf, just switch the dmd drivers over again and they'll be back in their original games..

As Chris stated, it's the 62v side, which is the lower left most section of the HV section of this board. I have never actually seen another section of the HV go, other than this in all the boards I've repaired.

Just pull the fuses, and use with the colordmd. If you need in the future you should post a photo of the solder side so we can evaluate if you are better off turfing it and buying a replacement, which is $90ish, or if it will be a typical rebuild candidate. This can vastly differ for each circumstance.

Not so much to repair, 62V circuit in green color.

80-2-62.jpg

But I would just pull J605 instead of pulling the fuses when using a colorDMD.

I retract my original assertion.
I remembered the circuitry differently. Checking the schematics this morning, the two "sides" of the HV circuit are fused separately.

F601 fuses the 68V side.
If that fuse is blown, then the associated bridge may also be blow too.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

62v side you mean. He said fuses are good. I've never seen a fuse blow on this board, have you? Always surprised about this. I've seen countless fried HV sections, bad caps, and one bad bridge, but in none of those situations has a fuse ever been shot. I always assumed they over valued these fuses given this, I mean it should take out the fuse before a component right, that's the key aspect of having a circuit fused, but in these circuits, they are clearly not the weakest link.

I would pull both fuses though it using for a lcd. I'm not sure how much stress there is with no load, but no reason not to.

Yes. But it was always combined with a shorted bridge on the board. I haven't seen it often...maybe twice.

I say 62V sometimes, 68V other times. The measured voltage varies quite a bit across boards. It doesn't really matter that much. The spec is in the Wiki...but I've worked on so many of these boards that I never go back to the Wiki.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Interesting about the bridge and fuse.

As for the 62v, I have one now on my BSD that was giving some junk with the display. Checked, and 62 has gone to around 68, so I knew something is going and I have to rebuild. When people upped the zener diode to allow more voltage for failing DMDs, this is also what happens isn't it, higher 62v output?

Anything out of spec I rebuild. I feel better about it as well, as I like raising those ceramic resistors and other components to avoid further heat issues.

I do the same thing. I like to provide as much ambient air cooling as possible.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

One of my boards would blow the correct 3/8 fuse but not the 1/2 SB fuses the ebay guy installed in a "rebuilt" board I picked up... The board worked but the voltages were a little off. Turned out to be a bad transistor (Q4 or Q5, don't remember which one).

I also had a board that would blow the 3/8 fuse(s) if you power cycled the machine too fast. Re-capping and rebuilding the HV section solved that one.

Most likely R12 and R13 (just above R12) are burnt, better replace them both, they drain the large capacitors when the machine is turned OFF.

I think you measured from GND to J605-x and not between J605-1 and J605-2 because the other board seems to work. Don't worry about J605, it looks like the board is indeed the problem.

With J605 connected and machine ON, you can measure Vac this way.
Careful !, it is 80 and 100 Volt ac
DMM-80.gif

Honestly, just rebuild the entire HV section, raise all parts, and you will have a solid board you will likely never need to deal with again. If you don't feel comfortable in that, or better yet don't have the proper equipment, send it to someone like Chris, as he has offered.

While you can get away with cutting old components and solder sucking with a pump, these areas have already seen a lot of heat issues, and those pads could go much easier. I use a Hakko 808, and these sections are a 20 min job with this.

I'm 180'ing on my prior idea to only replace the 62v side. While this is almost always the only thing failing, the heat generated by this entire HV area deserves components to be raised for the entire section.

Well, he *sounds* like an electronic repairman. Just make sure he has the equipment to handle through-hole board desoldering, as I'm guessing he likely does almost solely surface mount components, and that he understands these areas have already seen a substantial amount of heat, and components needs to be removed with care due to this.

You may want to post photos of the lower HV section (where the heat sinks are) for both sides of this board, and we can take a look. Some become questionable if they are repairable, and some can be very straightforward, given the damage. I would suggest this first, so we can view and give you an opinion if it's worth fixing, or too far gone, and to just use it for a colordmd.

These colordmd's have proved to be good to people for allowing some of these boards to remain in use that otherwise would be too far gone. And I know, some people will say you can still jumper the heck out of it to make it work, but at a certain point I choose to let it go and order another $90 controller board.

In the end, maybe I'm missing something, but if you have a colordmd, and intend on keeping it and using it, why not just pull the fuses and move this board to that machine and forget about it?