(Topic ID: 270792)

6264 NVRAM for System 11


By Bax1

29 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 43 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by Bax1
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 29 days ago

So I have a 6264 nvram and want to put it in my Cyclone. Do I need to change any jumpers to make it work? Is this the right one for Cyclone?

#2 29 days ago

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Installing_NVRAM_instead_of_batteries

It depends on what you currently have installed, but yes, a jumper will need to be checked/moved.

#3 29 days ago

Cool. Thank you for the link

#4 27 days ago

Depending on your MPU, 6116 might be your only choice. System 11B and 11C allows you to use 6116 or 6264.

#5 27 days ago

System 11 series boards require soldering right?

#6 27 days ago

The System 11_ (blank) already has an IC socket. All others will need soldering.

#7 27 days ago

Ok so here is my board. I’m assuming this is the model number? The Nvram goes in u25 correct? While I was under the hood I checked the voltages on the board. The test points on mpu was 4.91. I should probably rebuild the power supply correct?

#8 27 days ago

Would help if I posted the pic. So if nvram goes in u25, where is the jumper that needs to be switched?

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#9 27 days ago

Yes, it is U25. Personally, I would go with 6116 since it does not require a jumper change. Of course, I would say that since I have both on hand at all times.
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#10 27 days ago
Quoted from Bax1:

The test points on mpu was 4.91. I should probably rebuild the power supply correct?

Technically, a good 5v is between 4.75 to 5.25v. I would still replace the capacitors on the power supply. Electrolytic capacitors only have a certain lifespan and many of the smaller capacitors are at the age now that they are leaking and sometimes even damaging the pads under the part. Just because you replace the capacitors, does not necessarily mean you will raise your 4.91v. New capacitors will keep from having some intermittent issues.

#11 27 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Yes, it is U25. Personally, I would go with 6116 since it does not require a jumper change. Of course, I would say that since I have both on hand at all times.
[quoted image]

I only have the 6264 so looks like when I replace u25 the jumper below just needs to be moved over correct? Sometimes I get a u25 ram failure on boot up so hoping this will cure it

#12 27 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Technically, a good 5v is between 4.75 to 5.25v. I would still replace the capacitors on the power supply. Electrolytic capacitors only have a certain lifespan and many of the smaller capacitors are at the age now that they are leaking and sometimes even damaging the pads under the part. Just because you replace the capacitors, does not necessarily mean you will raise your 4.91v. New capacitors will keep from having some intermittent issues.

Ok cool. I will order up a kit

#13 27 days ago
Quoted from Bax1:

I only have the 6264 so looks like when I replace u25 the jumper below just needs to be moved over correct? Sometimes I get a u25 ram failure on boot up so hoping this will cure it

Yes, U25 and that one jumper change, just as it shows on the post. It should fix it. Problem is that C30 (axial 22uf 10v) on the MPU sometimes causes similar fault. I definitely would try the NVRAM first.

Becareful. The pads and traces can be easily damaged.

#14 27 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Yes, U25 and that one jumper change, just as it shows on the post. It should fix it. Problem is that C30 (axial 22uf 10v) on the MPU sometimes causes similar fault. I definitely would try the NVRAM first.
Becareful. The pads and traces can be easily damaged.

Right on. Appreciate the help. May get to it later today or tomorrow. Will post results. Gotta make sure I have the right socket too

#15 27 days ago

After removing the old RAM, I like to take a picture and zoom in on the top side of the board to he sure I did not damage anything.

#16 27 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

After removing the old RAM, I like to take a picture and zoom in on the top side of the board to he sure I did not damage anything.

good call thank you for the tip. Do you cut the rams legs or just desolder? I do have a hakko

#17 27 days ago

I normally cut the legs close to the body as I can so it makes it easy to heat the pins and lift the pin from the board. If you use the Hakko, don't put pressure on the board when heating/sucking solder out.

I had already installed over 200 NVRAM for myself and others around town as I do other game repairs for people as time allows.

#18 26 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I normally cut the legs close to the body as I can so it makes it easy to heat the pins and lift the pin from the board. If you use the Hakko, don't put pressure on the board when heating/sucking solder out.
I had already installed over 200 NVRAM for myself and others around town as I do other game repairs for people as time allows.

Cool thank you. I’ll go with the cutting the legs approach

1 week later
#19 19 days ago

Put the Nvram in yesterday and the game is alive again!!! U25 was bad. Took a couple times turning it off and on to get to factory settings but she all good now!!! Thanks for the help

#20 19 days ago

Ok something is wrong. Turned the game on get a buzzing noise and no boot. Turn it off and on it boots but then start rebooting intermittently. Try to start a game and it reboots. Turned it off and on and have left it on for a few and hasn’t rebooted again. Didn’t start a game yet. Played great last night

#21 19 days ago

Time to test 5v, 12v, and -12v on the power supply and then measure 5v on the MPU.

#22 18 days ago

Mpu is giving me 4.95v there are 3 test points on the power supply. What are they supposed to be?

#23 18 days ago

So I left the game on this evening since it wasn’t rebooting at the time then cooked dinner. Hour later I go have a few games on it no problem. Turn it off and 30 mins later back to rebooting once you hit start button

#24 18 days ago

Ok so checked voltages on power supply
+5 was 4.99
+12 was 9.8
-12 was -13.8

I ordered a cap kit. Anything else I may need?

#25 18 days ago

Potentially a bridge rectifier for the power supply since the 12v is low, if the cap kit does not fix it. I also would replace the C30 on the MPU.

#26 17 days ago

Cool hopefully I’ll get it this weekend. Do you know the value of c30?

#27 17 days ago

22uf 25v axial electrolytic

#28 17 days ago

Cool thank you for the help. Will report back when it’s complete

#29 12 days ago

Parts came in today. Changed out power supply and c30 on mpu. 12v still showing 9.8v but not resetting. Before hooked it up to mpu it was 10.8v Any thoughts or leave it since it’s not resetting

#30 12 days ago

How about reseating the connectors on the backside of the transformer in the cabinet that feeds up to the power supply?

Did you replace the bridge rectifier on the power supply?

#31 11 days ago

Did not replace the bridge and will check connectors from transformer to power supply

#32 11 days ago

Bridge rectifier likely will be it, especially if reseating the transformer connectors do not help.

#33 11 days ago

Just reseated connectors at transformer and get the same. Now the sound went down to barely nothing.

#34 11 days ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Just reseated connectors at transformer and get the same. Now the sound went down to barely nothing.

Your low 12v likely has something to do with that.

#35 11 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Your low 12v likely has something to do with that.

I’ll test the bridge tomorrow and see if it’s that.

#36 10 days ago

So bridge tests good. Sound is only coming from tiny right speaker. Sound stopped after reseating the two connectors by transformer

#37 10 days ago

What is the 12volts now reading?

#38 10 days ago

Still same 9.8 when hooked up to mpu

#39 10 days ago

Must had bumped some other speaker wiring. I would look over the wiring, run your hand down the wiring to be sure it is cut somewhere, especially if it got cut when putting the speaker panel back up or a connector came loose in the speaker wiring.

#40 10 days ago

Cool. Will check it out in the morning
What could be causing the 12v to draw down low?

#41 10 days ago

got the sound figured out. there was a connector that must have been wedge on the playfield when I lifted it, it yanked it. now to figure out the 12v. showing 10.22v today.

#42 10 days ago
Quoted from Bax1:

So bridge tests good. Sound is only coming from tiny right speaker. Sound stopped after reseating the two connectors by transformer

Did all 4 measurements fall in the .4 to .6v range with the diode test?

#43 10 days ago

yes sir. all were at .48x

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