(Topic ID: 177603)

'54 Gottlieb Mystic Marvel problems

By PittPin

7 years ago


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MM2.pdf (PDF preview)
#1 7 years ago

I have a Gottlieb Mystic Marvel that I am trying to get running. I had a good tech work on it and he had it running at his shop but it started acting up once I got it home. There was some trouble with the HOLD coil. A different (wrong) coil was installed in order to trouble shoot the game. I ordered a correct coil from PBR (still waiting for it). Then I read in Clay's EM Guide about removing a wire from the HOLD coil and adding and ON/OFF switch so that the game will light up without starting a game. Then I put a plastic shim behind the HOLD coil plate that put the switches in the activated position. So now when the game was plugged in and the switch turned ON the game lit up.

BUT, I can not start a game. The Start button does nothing (there are credits on the game).

So I attached some pictures. One shows the new power cord connected to the fuse and transformer (black wire from power cord went to ON/OFF switches, then black wire from ON/OFF to fuse, white wire of power cord to center of tranformer, green wire from power cord to case of transformer). Another shows the ON/OFF switch I added. The third shows the black wire I removed from the HOLD and put a wire cap on it. The fourth is a section of the schematic.

I am wondering if removing the black wire was incorrect and maybe affected other coils?

Does anyone have ideas why the game play will not start or what I did wrong?

MM2.pdfMM2.pdf

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#2 7 years ago

Hi
No, removing that wire from hold coil did not hurt anything.
There is a switch on the S relay, blk/blu? that must be closed.
A 0 free play switch,bl/gr, on the credit unit must be closed.
Motor switch 1c gr/br, must be closed.
A switch or/gr, on the on ball release relay? must be closed.
Then, you can press play button, and it should come to life.

#3 7 years ago

And make sure score motor is in correct position or it won't start.

#4 7 years ago

You may need to have credits on the replay unit in order for the game to start. Also check the switch stack that rides the back of the ball gate, these switches often get accidently knocked out of whack when raising and lowering the PF.

- TimMe

#5 7 years ago

I see the picture of R relay where you disconnected the white wire off the coil, but it looks to me like there are two more coils/switch stacks up stream from R that would rely on that power. Those two other coils/switch stacks look to be connected with a solid uninsulated jumper wire originating from R where you disconnected the power.

I can't read what those two coil letters are and don't have a schematic but again it looks to me that they'll never pull in with that power line you disconnected from R.

#6 7 years ago
Quoted from tuffano:

I can't read what those two coil letters are and don't have a schematic but again it looks to me that they'll never pull in with that power line you disconnected from R.

This occurred to me also as I was staring at the game and the schematic. I believe I should have removed the other wire from the hold coil. I think you are right that I probably disconnected two other coils by removing the wrong wire. I am going to start by switching these around and see if that works. Then I will move on to the other suggestions if it is still not starting.

Thanks for all the ideas.

#7 7 years ago

I changed the wiring to the R coil. This reconnected the O and H coils. I have power and the game lights up. The start button still gets no response. I manually released the balls and was able to play a game. All of the scoring switches work and the scoring on the back glass seems to incrementing accurately. But then the game is not resetting. Also noticed the left flipper quit working, but unless that can keep a game from starting I will deal with that later. So it is time to look at the other suggestions.

Since this is the first EM I've tinkered with I need to ask what will seem like dumb questions.

I will start with:

Quoted from Shapeshifter:

And make sure score motor is in correct position or it won't start.

How do I know the correct position of the score motor?

Then:

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

There is a switch on the S relay, blk/blu? that must be closed.
A 0 free play switch,bl/gr, on the credit unit must be closed.
Motor switch 1c gr/br, must be closed.
A switch or/gr, on the on ball release relay? must be closed.

Are these the switch states with no power or once power is on? If they are not in the state you indicate what to do? Are we talking adjusting the switches or does a wrong state lead to looking for another problem?

Quoted from TimMe:

Also check the switch stack that rides the back of the ball gate,

I am not sure which switch you mean here. Can you guide me a bit?

I'll try these few questions and then go check things out.

#8 7 years ago

If you need any comparisons, I can take and post pics from my fully working Mystic Marvel.

#9 7 years ago
Quoted from PittPin:

Are these the switch states with no power or once power is on? If they are not in the state you indicate what to do? Are we talking adjusting the switches or does a wrong state lead to looking for another problem?

I believe the switch states are in power on, ready to start a game

#10 7 years ago

On Gottlieb schematics, the switches are shown with the game reset and ready to play ball one, and the machine unplugged (no power).

As for the switch stack on the ball gate that I was talking about, what I mean is that there are one or more switches that get actuated when the ball gate (AKA the ball release) in the ball trough is in the energized position. One of these switches is normally closed and will be opened when the ball gate is energized. When this switch is open, it shuts off all of the start circuits, including the replay button.

If you look at your schematic snippet in post #1, at the very bottom right corner of the pic there is the start ("S") coil. Just to the left of the S coil is a switch marked "ON BALL RELEASE." This is the switch I'm talking about. If that switch is knocked out of whack and is not making contact when the ball gate (AKA ball release) is in the non-energized position, then you'll never be able to start a new game.

- TimMe

#11 7 years ago

You also asked about the score motor. The score motor is a cam assembly with a large top cam that has 3 detents, spaced 120 degrees apart. That's because one cycle of the score motor is 1/3 of a full rotation of the cam. The score motor assembly has various switch stacks spaced at different positions around the perimeter of the cam assembly. These switches are actuated by detents in the cams and by posts protruding from the cams. Each of the switch perimeter locations is identified by number - 1, 2, 3, etc.

In addition, the various "levels" (vertical positions) of the score motor cam assembly are identified by letter - A, B, C, etc. The top cam is the "C" level cam. So a motor switch at "1C" is in the switch stack at position 1, riding the top cam. A motor switch at "2B" is in the switch stack at position 2, riding the post between the top and bottom cams. And so on. The lower left area of your schematic should have a diagram that calls out all of the switch positions and levels used on your score motor.

The score motor has a home position. It must always return to this home position or the game will not work correctly. The home position is where the cam rider for the switch stack at motor 1C is sitting in one of the 3 detents of the top cam. There is a switch on the motor 1C position that is called the runout switch. Whenever this runout switch is closed, it causes the score motor to run. The runout switch is closed whenever the cam detent is not at the 1C position, because then the 1C switch stack get pushed back by the little metal cam rider that rides the edge of the top cam.

An easy way to check that all is well with the score motor is to turn on the game, and then rotate the top cam by hand a few degrees counter-clockwise. This should cause the 1C switch stack to actuate, which will close the motor runout switch. The motor should come to life and run the cam 1/3 turn to the next detent position at 1C. You can do this test a few times to confirm that the score motor is always reliably running itself back to the home position.

If the score motor doesn't move when you rotate it out of the home position by hand, then either you have no power to the motor, or you have a failing runout switch at the motor 1C position.

- TimMe

#12 7 years ago

Incredibly informed & helpful posts as are all your posts TimMe

#13 7 years ago

Here is an update and a couple follow-up questions:

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

A switch or/gr, on the on ball release relay? must be closed.

With the power off/unplugged, the or/gr switch on the ball release relay is CLOSED.

Quoted from TimMe:

If you look at your schematic snippet in post #1, at the very bottom right corner of the pic there is the start ("S") coil. Just to the left of the S coil is a switch marked "ON BALL RELEASE." This is the switch I'm talking about. If that switch is knocked out of whack and is not making contact when the ball gate (AKA ball release) is in the non-energized position, then you'll never be able to start a new game.

I think the or/gr switch above is the one referred to here and it is CLOSED. Is this correct?

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

Motor switch 1c gr/br, must be closed.

I located the Motor 1C switch using the info from TimMe. The gr/br switch was CLOSED, however while I was cleaning this switch I noticed the brown wire came loose from the switch. I'll fix this. This may solve the problem, but I want to check the other items first.

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

There is a switch on the S relay, blk/blu that must be closed.

I see a switch on the schematic on the bottom right of the snippet above that I think is the one mentioned here. But, I can not find it in the game. Where should I be looking for this switch?

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

A 0 free play switch,bl/gr, on the credit unit must be closed.

I looked on the schematic. Is this the ZERO F.P. switch shown on the schematic snippet above (lower right side)? This looks like a Bl/Gr switch. Where is this switch in the game, I could not figure out where this thing was?

#14 7 years ago
Quoted from PittPin:

With the power off/unplugged, the or/gr switch on the ball release relay is CLOSED.

Did you test it? how?

Quoted from PittPin:

I think the or/gr switch above is the one referred to here and it is CLOSED. Is this correct?

Yes

Quoted from PittPin:

Where should I be looking for this switch?

on the S relay

Quoted from PittPin:

Where is this switch in the game, I could not figure out where this thing was?

On the credit unit in the back box.
You also have jones plugs along the way to look at.
After all this, you can test this out by puttin a jumper on the fuse, and temp touch the other clip to the GR wire on the S relay coil. the coil should fire.

#15 7 years ago

Referring to:

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

A switch or/gr, on the on ball release relay? must be closed.

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

Did you test it? how?

For the Or/gr switch at the Ball Release I just looked to make sure it was Closed in the power off condition and did a continuity check across the lugs for the Orange and the Green. From what I understood Closed was the state needed for the game to start. So I did not do any testing beyond that.

#16 7 years ago

Remember I have a working game so can post pics of switches if needed

#17 7 years ago

ONE STEP FORWARD -- I checked all of the things suggested. I found the brown wire had come off of the Motor 1C and soldered that up. I filed the left flipper contact because that flipper wasn't working. I plugged it in, flipped my new power switch, pressed the start button and "holy crap" the game started!! Not without some issues.
- The Ball Release coil is buzzing loudly. So it releases the balls but stays energized. I read another post in EM Tech forum that said to beware of the number of balls in EMs, that it could cause weird things to happen. I have five in this game. But with the coil staying energized and the fourth and fifth ball dividing the path of the ball release arm could it be possible that there should not be five balls in the game?

- I am able to manually eject a ball and start to play. Scoring seems to go okay. BUT, then the game go dead, lights out, no flippers etc.

So I flip the power switch and unplug. In order to clear the shutdown condition I have to remove the shim that I inserted behind the HOLD coil plate (remember I did Clay's suggested mod and removed power to the HOLD coil and he said the drawback was that if the a game was stopped in the middle it would not restart the game when powered on again), power up, the game resets and stops. I power down, then I reinsert the shim, power up and press the start button and the game starts. Loud Ball Release coil buzz, play the first ball, score a few points and off it goes again. I have only done this sequence three times so I don't know if the shutdown is related to a specific scoring feature, but it seemed random.

Could this be the Ball Release switches causing the shutdown? I may try less than five balls. How do you change the number of balls per game on an EM like this?

Any ideas what would cause the game to just shutdown? I am anxious to keep plugging away at this. I was pleased to see some lights and some action.

#18 7 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Remember I have a working game so can post pics of switches if needed

Thanks, I remember, but I don't want to send you off taking pictures until I am certain I need that help.

#19 7 years ago

It's a 5 ball game. Cannot work with any other number.
Ball release coil should stop after the first points - sometimes mine takes 2 scores but it always go off quickly.
They all buzz.

#20 7 years ago

Hi Pitt.
good your makin progress.
when the game goes dead, look at the R relay. is it still energised? if it opens, all power goes off.
there is a shutoff switch assoc with it also.
chk that, and also the S relay.
These two control power to the transformer.
you can test by jumpering the switchs one at a time, and tryin a game.
When you verify a switch is closed, watch for the contacts to wipe against each other a bit.
if they do not wipe a little, and just close, they may be not conducting completely.

#21 7 years ago

Here is my R relay in my game.

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#22 7 years ago
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

when the game goes dead, look at the R relay. is it still energised? if it opens, all power goes off.

Since I removed power to the R coil and shimmed it so it is "always energized" I don't think R is the problem. It is essentially jumpered or am I mistaken?

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

and also the S relay

The one that I thought was the S relay is in the reset bank. Mine are not labeled. Would that be where it is?

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

you can test by jumpering the switches one at a time, and tryin a game.

Can you identify the color of the wires that I need to jumper on the S relay (I see a couple S switches on the schematic)? I am a little cautious about jumping stuff unless I am sure. If I understand, by jumpering the S switch, I would be verifying that it is somehow opening when it should have stayed closed. Is that correct?

Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Remember I have a working game so can post pics of switches if needed

Are the coils in your reset bank labelled on your machine? Mine are not identified.

Thanks guys again for your time.

#23 7 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Here is my R relay in my game.

Is this with Power OFF? And if I ever get mine working I want to clean it up so it looks as good as yours.
When a game is started, these switches change states, one opens and the other closes. Mine is "forced" to the powered state by a shim behind the plate pushes on the switches. So it is opposite of the one in your picture. I did this based on the suggestions in Clay's EM repair guide so the game will light up when plugged in and turned on.

#24 7 years ago

R would be jumpered.

Quoted from PittPin:

the S relay is in the reset bank. Mine are not labeled. Would that be where it is?

most likely.

Quoted from PittPin:

Can you identify the color of the wires that I need to jumper on the S relay

Looks like black and blue? but not positive there.

Quoted from PittPin:

by jumpering the S switch, I would be verifying that it is somehow opening when it should have stayed closed. Is that correct?

That is the intention.

#25 7 years ago

Here are all the relays labelled.

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#26 7 years ago

On to the next step.
While checking the S relay I found a BL/OR wire to that relay that had come loose. I repaired that. I was able to power up, start a game, and get through the five balls without it shutting down. The scoring looked accurate. At the end of the fifth ball the game just sits there with lights on and flippers active. START button does not get a response. I noticed that the credit number did not decrement (stays on 26). So what should have happened next to get it to GAME OVER? What to check?

I was planning on jumpering the S relay switch as suggested above. The wiring on my game has a blue wire to one lug and a purple wire to the other lug and is the switch that is CLOSED at reset. When I pushed on the relay plate this switch OPENs. So I wasn't sure what the effect would be if I jumpered it. Once I found the loose wire I thought maybe this switch was not the problem. I may revisit it.

#27 7 years ago
Quoted from PittPin:

On to the next step.
While checking the S relay I found a BL/OR wire to that relay that had come loose. I repaired that. I was able to power up, start a game, and get through the five balls without it shutting down. The scoring looked accurate. At the end of the fifth ball the game just sits there with lights on and flippers active. START button does not get a response. I noticed that the credit number did not decrement (stays on 26). So what should have happened next to get it to GAME OVER? What to check?
I was planning on jumpering the S relay switch as suggested above. The wiring on my game has a blue wire to one lug and a purple wire to the other lug and is the switch that is CLOSED at reset. When I pushed on the relay plate this switch OPENs. So I wasn't sure what the effect would be if I jumpered it. Once I found the loose wire I thought maybe this switch was not the problem. I may revisit it.

There is no game over on 1954 games. You can still move flippers after 5 balls and lights stay on.

Will do S relay photo tomorrow.

Pressing start button should result in credit meter going to 25 and new game starting.

Maybe check switches on credit meter and manually check by pressing coil in etc.

#28 7 years ago

Here is wiring to S relay.

Looks like a green/yellow plus 2 plastic cream, 1 dark green plastic and 1 black.

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#29 7 years ago

Other side - it's second switch stack from the right.

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#30 7 years ago

Shapeshifter posted two photos just above. Looking at the first photo, with power on and GI lit, if I push the start button nothing happens. But if I gently push the switch in the third stack from the right (the one near the red-purple leads in the pic) my game resets and starts. Is this switch is the S switch at the bottom left of the schematic snippet (at the beginning of this post) that should be normally CLOSED? If so then I am guessing that this switch is the culprit and needs further cleaning and adjustment. How does that sound?

#31 7 years ago

it is possible, if it acts flakey, go back through it again, you may have it after that.

#32 7 years ago
Quoted from PittPin:

Shapeshifter posted two photos just above. Looking at the first photo, with power on and GI lit, if I push the start button nothing happens. But if I gently push the switch in the third stack from the right (the one near the red-purple leads in the pic) my game resets and starts. Is this switch is the S switch at the bottom left of the schematic snippet (at the beginning of this post) that should be normally CLOSED? If so then I am guessing that this switch is the culprit and needs further cleaning and adjustment. How does that sound?

You can manually check the S relay.

Open and close armature and watch switch blades and see there is good contact and that contacts are clean. Hard to clean but use the flexible contact cleaner.

If still struggling I can get a real close up pic tomorrow as I have to get the game out to sort out a different issue on mine.

3 weeks later
#33 7 years ago

Okay guys, I fooled around with the switch on the S relay cleaning and adjusting it until it finally solved the problem with the game not starting. Thanks for the input and I could not have got it working without the help I got here.

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