Hi Steven
this http://www.tecnopinball.org/doc_biblioteca.php is a good site for Spanish Pins. Well, they do not have the schematics for Your pin. From somewhere (I do not remember) I have snippets of schematics of "New World" - I have put together --- the first picture (PDF) shows this --- not yet bleached. I am working on "refreshing / bleaching" --- I can send my work "some MB data" if You write me an personal message with an EMail-Adress.

To Your problem - when manually activating the H-500-Points-Relay - nice it stays pulling and with the help of the Score-Motor running: 500 points are given to the Score-Drums. Look at the H-Relay - from one side of the "Coil on the H-Relay" runs a short wire to a "Switch mounted on the H-Relay - to a switchblade*** on this switch" - this is the so-called "Self-Hold-Switch of the relay". See in the second picture (JPG) --- The A-Target and the B-Target and the C-Target have on one side SAME Wire (COLOR) --- the SAME wire-color You must see on the switchblade*** on the Self-Hold-Switch of the H-Relay. So You are allowed to set a permanent jumper - You jumper what should have a direct connection.
The A-Target and the B-Target and the C-Target have on the other side wire of "a same color" --- this "a same color" You should see on "switch named Right Rollover, Left Target, Left Bottom Rollover" --- see these "a same color" - You also can put a permanent jumper. Greetings Rolf

xnewworld-Total-Save-orpalis.pdf

0New-World-Work-01 (resized).jpg

Hi Steven
the title of the topic and the "problem by now" match. I'd like to have this topic ongoing - means I'd like to (search for the cause and) solve the problem.

I show here parts from schematics "Conquest 200" - You have a "sometimes fault" with targets worth 500 points. Maybe a wire has broken-off at a solder-point - sometimes making connection - sometimes not.

I force connection - I toggle-off the pin (Safety Reasons) --- when I see an connection in the schematics - a connection with NO SWITCH in the wire: I am allowed to set a "permanent jumper" there - just to make sure: THIS connection is good as the "set jumper" guarantees the connection.

IF (if, if) the "Right Top Rollover" (or the "Left Top-Rollover") 100% functions: I see a connecting wire (I do not see a switch in the connection) - probably wire-color-Yellow --- I am allowed to set a permanent jumper. I choose "Target C" (I could choose as well Target B or A) and I mount (my "blue") permanent jumper. The other side of the Target C has (schematics) a connection (no switch in the wiring) to the "Coil and Self-Hold-Switch on H-500-Relay" - I establish (my "green") permanent jumper.
Then I do some tests - I play several games - DOES "Target C" functions every time ? Greetings Rolf

0Conquest-200-Work-03 (resized).jpg

Hi Steven
a post to come about troubleshooting - this post is only theory - logic of schematics. The first PDF shows an "exploded view". The schematics to an pinball machine is NOT an exploded view --- I call schematics to be "abstract drawings" - the relays and steppers and the lights are grouped - it is drawn "beautiful" - stuff sitting side by side in an schematics might be sitting in the pin "far apart". "Electrically" the schematics show the truth - when we see a line drawn from "somewhere" to "somewhere else" - NO SWITCH in the line: THEN there is a wire running from "somewhere" to "somewhere else" in the pin.

The second PDF shows the schematics of A-Go-Go, http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=27 - may want to make You a copy of the ipdb-schematics to look at the wiring --- I show "A", "B", "C", "D", "E", "F" --- logical groups to make the (abstract) drawing of the schematics to look beautiful.
"A" is stuff operated by line-voltage, 120 VAC
"B" is the Lights-Section operated by 6 VAC
"C" is 24 VAC stuff beeing connected with one side of the coil(s) DIRECTLY to fuse / transformer. Of course there are switches to operate the stuff - switches in the returning line --- but the "C-stuff" can be operated at any time whatever state the pin is in.
Between "C" and "D" there is a "Switch on the Game-Over-Relay" to CUT the powerside-connecting-line --- everything below this switch (the "D, E, F stuff") cannot be operated when the pin is in state "Game-Over" because the "Switch on Game-Over-Relay" then is open (for example: We cannot move the flipperbats when the pin is in state Game-Over).
Between "D" and "E" there is a "Switch on the Reset-Relay" to CUT ... Well A-Go-Go has no relays in the "D-Section" --- some pins may have a relay or two relays or whatever - when the pin is busy "resetting" then the switch is open and the "D,E,F stuff" is in-operable.
Between "E" and "F" there is a "Switch on the Tilt-Relay" to CUT ... WHEN we bang a TILT: We cannot move the flipper-bats because the flipper-bats are in "Section-F".
So "Section-E" shall come alife after a game bas been started and the Resetting has been done - it shall (still) operate - even when we bang a tilt.

I decided to show the schematics of an Williams pin. Bally is almost the same. Gottlieb are similar but Gottlieb has "Powerside connection and Returnside connection to the transformer": EXCHANGED ---
Steven, Your pin has a Bally / Williams type of Score-Motor - but Your pin is wired in "Gottlieb-Logic" --- but to show the "groups made --- the "A", "B", "C", "D", "E", "F": An Williams or Bally schematics is much better for to show this "grouping". Greetings Rolf

P.S.: In the upper right corner of the second PDF we see the non-pleasing sentence "Due to wire-shortages beyond our control: Some wire colors (used in the pin) may be other than indicated on wiring diagram" --- a very non-pleasing sentence.

0Genius CP Explosionszeichnung-small.pdf

0A-Go-Go-ipdb-tiny.pdf

Late to the party, but there was another recent Conquest 200 thread where someone posted mostly complete schematics.

Hi Steven
good - with jumper(s) the C-Target works - and the others work too. In the pics in post-6 I believe to see: TWO jumpers set - is this what You did (two jumpers) ?
I assume You have set (JPG in post-5) "my green jumper" and "my blue jumper". To get closer - to find out more: Take away "my blue jumper" - then test the pin - question: Do the targets still work ?
(((If they do not work: Put back, establish again "my blue jumper" and take away "my green jumper" - then test the pin - question: Do the targets still work ? Greetings Rolf

Hi Steven
thanks for doing the testing --- I assume Your (post-10) "blue lead and green lead" are "my blue jumper and my green jumper" --- maybe we have a weird situation - maybe not --- Your "related relay" --- what is the name of ? Of interest is the "H-500-Points-Relay" - does it pull-in and stays pulling ?

An "add-on" to "theory" - see the JPG here --- in schematics we see on many places that from a wire (drawn) there are "fork-off wires" --- in reality in the pin there NEVER is an "fork-off off a wire" --- in reality in the pin ALWAYS a solder-lug on a switch is used to make an "fork-off".
Compare "JPG in post-5" with "JPG here" - the "JPG here" is closer to "reality in the pin" --- see "my brown lines" - wire-in-the-in-pin-color-maroon-black hops from switch to switch to switch to switch to "Switch or Coil on H-Relay" --- the same with "my orange lines" - wire-in-the-pin-color-yellow hops and hops and hops ... . See my words "Jones-Plug ?" --- WHERE is the H-Relay mounted in the pin ? IF (if, if) in the Backbox or in the Cabinet: Then there must be a Jones-Plug in the connecting wire coming from the playfield --- and the Jones-Plug might be bad - please try to follow "wire-in-the-pin-color-maroon-brown" from the Target-Switches down into the cabinet or up into the Backbox - see a Jones-Plug ? Investigate on the wiring from the playfield-switches to the H-Relay.

My shoulder is doing fine - here in Switzerland it is past eleven at night - I go to sleep - so this is my last post for today - till tomorrow, greetings, Rolf

0Conquest-200-Work-04 (resized).jpg

Hi Steven
I assume "the problem with the 500 points is 'solved' when You have set the permanent jumper". To "really find the cause of the fault" You'd have to cut the tie(s) holding together the bundle of wires so You can physically follow the wire from 'Target-Switch' to 'H-Relay' - and after the fault is found: Use new plastic-zip-tie(s) to re-bundle".
You can say "hope for luck" - and unplug the Jones-Plug and clean (very fine sandpaper rolled) the inside of all the female plug - use a copper-brush or sand-paper to clean the outside of all the male-plugs --- this means "hoping for corrosion in the connection in the plug - and eliminating corrosion by cleaning".

I believe "You can live for a while with the jumper-wire" - may want to print-out the JPG (here in this post) and put the print-out in Your pin for documentation. (((When everything else / other topics / problems are solved: We may come back to the jumper-wire - actually this means "You'd have to cut the tie(s) holding together the bundle of wires so You can physically follow the wire from 'Target-Switch' to 'H-Relay' ".)))

The next "urgent problem I see" is the one (red drop targets) in the other topic - we see us there. IF (if, if) You really want to stick to the Jumper-wire-problem: Write here. Greetings Rolf

0Conquest-200-Work-05 (resized).jpg