Not likely. Look at the current rating label for the pins (5 amps for the newer ones and 8 amps for older ones generally). Look at your breaker - it's probably only rated for 15 or 20 amps. That would give you maybe 2-3 pins and no subs. Of course, check the power specs of the subs and add that in too. Add the amperage for the breakers and/or subs plugged in to the ENTIRE CIRCUIT and not just one outlet. It should not exceed your breaker's rating.

Some of the WPC95 games (I think) don't like low line voltage, which can occur when too many games are operating one one circuit - TAF comes to mind. It can cause resets in game play, among other things.

It's always better to be safe than sorry. You might think it is not a big deal if you only play one at a time until you have some friends over and then have issues tripping your breaker.

And don't upsize your breaker - your wiring is probably not able to handle the additional current.

20A yes, 15A not really. Assume 2.5A per game and not exceed 80% circuit load but also depends on what kind of subs are you using and their draw.

If all 10 items are being used all at the same time, no. It is not enough. You will likely experience nuisance tripping of the circuit breaker. If they are all on and only 1is being played, maybe not. But a Minimum of 2 - 20amp dedicated circuits is what I would want for myself if I were in your shoes.

Even if it’s a 20 amp circuit, often times 15 amp plugs are used so the answer is still no.. that is if they are all on and being played. It’ll be enough to power them while you yourself plays tho without question.
I spit my subs between 2 pins....Works just as good and saves power.

What you need to do is measure how much current each machine is drawing, both in attract mode and during play. There are numerous devices that will measure this for you, like the P3 kill-a-watt:

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

Then you need to know how much your circuit can provide... likely either 15 amps or 20 amps. Since Watts=volts*amps, a 15amp circuit can provide a max of 1,800 watts, but the rule is generally no more than 80% continuous use, so about 1,400 total continuous watts.

It could be you are fine... maybe low usage machines with all LEDs might be easy on a 15a circuit.

As for safe, as long as you always use a decent gauge conductor, the worst that should happen is your breaker will trip. Where people tend to run into trouble is by loading too much on a cheap extension cord, which melts and starts a fire, or by putting in a bigger breaker. But measure and know.

The only difference between a 15A and 20A socket is the 20A socket has a horizontal slot to accept a High Power device with a 20A plug. Also keep in mind that the pinball machine cord itself that you are plugging into your 15A electrical socket is only rated for a maximum of 9.5A and would fail long before the electrical outlet or internal home wiring.

If you are using some type of power strip/extension cord to connect everything to a single wall plug then the answer is MAYBE!. Most power strips use 15A wiring and a 15 amp breaker which make them safe to use. If this isn't what you are using then the potential fire will happen between the wall outlet and power strip.

If you mean one circuit, as long as your home wiring is up to code and you aren't tripping your circuit breaker then its safe. I personally try to avoid connecting more than 5 Pins on any one circuit.

Older games like 70-80’s draw far less than 8 amps. Around 3 I think.

I think you are thinking of the main power fuse size which is typically rated at 1.5x - 2x the maximum current draw of the load (pinball machine).

Pffffffffft, Don't listen to these guys. You ever see national lampoons Christmas vacation? Look at how many lights he had plugged in.
JK

Way to many variables to answer correctly. Does the circuit have 12 or 14 gauge wiring? Do the pins have LEDs or not? How big are the subs 10,000 or 10 watt? More info needed.

I have 8 pins on one 20A circuit and never had a problem with them all on and being played at the same time. I've put a clamp on ammeter on that circuit and it was pulling 15A. Just under the 16A continuous trip current.

The current rating of the main fuse, or what's written on the serial tag, is not what a game pulls when in operation. Typically it's 1.9 to 2.5A per game depending on game and if it has LEDs throughout.

I’m running 7 pins and two psw10 subs off of one circuit that has two outlets and each has a power strip. Had my electrician wire it up and told him I needed enough power to run all that plus an AC runs in the summer or sometimes a dehumidifier on top of all that. Then I got a bowler on another circuit and one more pin on its own circuit, so I could thin out the load on the first 7 a little more if need be. I did have WPC95 games shut down mid play with the AC running. Usually only playing 3-4 max at a time with this setup, all others are on attract mode. Fire extinguisher is 5 feet away from it all.

Here's an older thread with more info on the subject...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/games-per-20amp-breaker

Are we talking Metric current here?

Before getting all mine down to the basement, I had 7 on the same circuit, along with a sub and a popcorn machine. I suspect my builder cut some corners, because it you went to take a leak in the bathroom in the next room, the lights would dim when someone would hit the flipper buttons.

I would be money the bathroom lights were on the same circuit.

With that said, I never had and issue. I did however plan for 4 games on each 20A circuit when I did the basement. It's probably way overkill, but my wife wants a damn skeeball machine so who knows what I'm going to put down there.

I’ve got 12 pins and probably 7 subs on what I believe to be a single circuit. I’m using those belkin remote controlled power strips. I have seen issues with resets but those seem to have gone away after installing the 5v daughter board on my WPC games. I never get breaker trips. Am I going to burn my damn house down?

Dumb question: if everything that turns off when you manually trip a breaker guaranteed to be on the same “circuit”?

You can buy current sensors that measure current vs time. Rather interesting seeing how low the typical current is vs. transients.

Funny I have the same scenario, I have 6 on one circuit and 5 on another plus lights. The basement bathroom lights strobe with the flipper buttons as well , it's my Disco bathroom. I put a "killawatt" device on a powers strip during an all day tournament with 4 pins (AF, TZ, AFM, TOM) max draw was 1160 watts. Circuit breakers are there for a purpose, if it blows you have to much draw, remove a pin from the circuit.

Know your max amperage, my sub alone draws 13

Just because you can get 14 pins, 6 subs, a cooler, a space heater, a fan, and a hot plate to run on 1 20 amp circuit doesnt mean that you should. Stuff gets hot, wears out and fails. and if it wasnt built to code, you are asking for trouble. People who dont know any better will over fuse, or just put a bigger breaker in.

You are correct. Turn on your machines, lights, etc, hit the breaker and you'll see exactly what is on that particular circuit.

I previously did some testing and posted current measurements results in another thread. It turns out, it's pretty safe to run many pins on one circuit, as long as players don't start triggering magnets at the same time!

Why?

All from 1 outlet

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Everyone should have a Kill-A-Watt. Under $20.

Trip the breaker / potentially harm equipment.

The next night.
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In most cases over fusing is a thing of the past in homes. When I bought my home 12 years ago it was difficult to get homeowners insurance with a fused panel so i quickly changed over to circuit breakers. If people can afford multiple pinball machines I'm guessing in most cases they have a modern (within the last 40 years) electrical service. If you can get 14 pins, 6 subs and a space heater on a 20A circuit and stay below 16A, you are good. Nothing is wearing out because you are running at 80%. It's not a motor with moving parts. If everything is sized correctly it should last virtually forever. People have a tendency to overbuild. I'd guess that 75% of homes don't need a 200A service. That is something created by realtors and electricians. I'm one of the electricians that has benefited from these services. If you want it, I'll put it in for you. it's not cheap. I frequently run my AC, 9 pins, a couple arcade games and a couple TV's on my 100A service with no issues. I do have gas.

While I'm sure it happens, I really hope everyone here has the sense to not put a 30A breaker on a 20 A circuit with #12's. The only real answer to the question is to put a meter on it. Find the circuit in the panel and put an amp meter on it. Turn on a game at a time and see what the effect is. If you have a 20A circuit I'm guessing you will be fine. You may find that you are in the 17-18A range and will probably have a nuisance trip at some point. You may find yourself at 22A and a faulty breaker (unlikely). Are all 5 games on at the same time frequently? Are they being played at the same time?

My gameroom has a dedicated 100A service. I have 50 pins, bowler, dedicated A/C, lights, water heater and a couple TVs. During tournaments they're all running and never had a problem.

The panel amperage is per phase. If you had strictly pinball machines at 2.5A each that's 300W. A100A panel can handle 24,000W. Theoretically that's 80 games. Just putting it in perspective.

As an Electrician for a long time, ive seen some stuff that shouldnt happen under properly sized normal conditions.
I don't want this to happen to anyone.

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I wish my house was that nice.