(Topic ID: 259934)

4K Virtual Pinball Build on the Cheap

By vestaviascott

31 days ago

Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 26 days ago by vestaviascott
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders


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    #1 31 days ago

    I've just completed the gathering of equipment I need do start my 4K Virtual Pinball build. Would like to use this thread to bring you guys along on the build and hopefully get some valuable advice along the way - this is my first VP build and I've been fortunate (i.e. LUCKY) to assemble an impressive set of components without breaking the bank.

    1) The cabinet ($50) - I obtained a Bally cabinet from the late 70's (1979 Bally Supersonic). The cabinet insides were mostly gutted but for the flipper buttons and switches are still intact as well as the tilt mechanics (possible to reuse these switches for VP and somehow connect them into the VP USB breakout box? I like the idea of original leaf switches to give that authentic feel). The Bally Supersonic is a 22" wide standard size cabinet and backbox. There is no glass and part of the outer trim is missing from the back box. The vital lockdown bar is intact and has a working latch and the metal/aluminum side rails are also intact. Alas, there are no legs and no glass and its missing the coin slot door.

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    2) The Playfield TV ($70) - I obtained a Vizio M43-C1 4K TV from a local thrift store for $20. It was not functioning. I ordered a replacement control board on Ebay for $50 and the TV now works beautifully in glorious 4K.

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    3) The backglass monitor ($15) - I obtained an HP 27" Monitor (HP 2710m) from the weekly Salvation Army auction. The monitor works great and the 1080p picture is sharp and crisp.

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    4) The PC ($80) - I obtained a used Dell 7020 from a local thrift store that specializes in refurbishing donated PCs with fresh copies of Windows 10. The PC came with a 19" monitor, keyboard and optical mouse. More importantly, it was equipped with an i7 processor running at 3.6ghz, 16MB of ram, and a dual hard drive setup with a 180 GB SSD

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    5) The graphics card ($190) - I got a used MSI GTX 980 ti with 6B ram from an Ebay seller who had just been gifted a brand new GTX 2070. This is the heart of the system so I wanted the most bang for my buck here.

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    6) The power supply ($30) - I got an EVGA 750W G+ Power supply like-new in box from my local Facebook Marketplace. The guy was selling because the fan was louder than he wanted - virtual pinball is kinda loud already so I'm not concerned with a little extra fan noise. The PSU looks brand new!

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    #2 31 days ago

    following: I will be very interesteed in how you put it all together, mount it all up and program it!

    #3 30 days ago

    Couple of complications on the build:

    1) The power supply is about 2 inches longer than the stock unit and required removal of the case latch bar mechanism in order to allow the PSU to slide into the case. And the fan on this EVGA 750 G+ is FREAKING LOUD. The original owner is not overstating on that point one bit.

    2) The drive cage at the front bottom of the Dell Optiplex 7020 case is preventing the GTX 980 ti card from fitting (by about 1/2 inch). The cage will have to be removed and the SSD and HDD will have to be relocated

    3) The SATA cable connectors are directly under the location where the 980 ti will be located on the top PCI rail. I will have to replace the existing SATA cables with a variant with "L" shaped end connectors in order to be able to allow the card to ride above them.

    Time to get some new drill bits...

    #4 30 days ago

    Smart to spend money on the gfx card. Don't cheap out on the pf screen. If you're going 4k get a monitor not tv. Refresh is everything in these from experience.

    Force feedback imperative too.

    Good luck

    #5 30 days ago

    Ditch the case. Get or print some spacers for motherboard and screw motherboard and ps directly to the bottom of the cab.

    Quoted from vestaviascott:

    Couple of complications on the build

    #6 30 days ago
    Quoted from jalpert:

    Ditch the case. Get or print some spacers for motherboard and screw motherboard and ps directly to the bottom of the cab.

    +1. No need for the case.

    #7 29 days ago

    Thanks for the info on de-casing the PC, MB & PSU. That's very helpful. The only complication I have left at the moment prior to testing the basic system (PF monitor + backglass monitor + DMD monitor + PC) is the power supply fan issue. From the looks of it, this EVGA 750 G+ is brand new. However, the guy who sold it to me was upfront about the fact he was selling it cheap because the fan was wide open constant from power on to power off with no throttling, and loud. He could not get EVGA to replace it, they told him it was normal operation.

    By comparison, when I swap out the EVGA with a no-name Ebay 950w PSU, the sound level is like night and day, the Ebay PSU is virtually silent.

    So, I'm trying to figure out what to do about the EVGA PSU. My options, I suppose are:

    1) Live with it as is. The cabinet should muffle the fan, especially if its in the back of the cabinet. Only issue with this is there could be something wrong with the PSU that's causing the fan to run at max speed constantly. Worst case it could end up damaging components in the PC

    2) Disable or replace the PSU fan. Not sure about this, any thoughts? If I have the PSU contained in a cabinet that is itself well ventilated, does that negate or mitigate the need for the PSU to have a fan?

    #8 29 days ago

    Seems you bought a loud power supply for $30. Since price and value are your number 1 goal, it’s unrealistic to have that come without compromise on some things in some areas.

    Live with it is my vote.

    Quoted from vestaviascott:

    Live with it as is

    #9 29 days ago

    I definitely think I may have got a good deal on a fully modular "name brand" PSU. However...

    My main concern with the "live with it" option is that there is something wrong with the PSU that could put the rest of the PC at risk of electrical damage. Its not only loud but it appears to have no variation based on temperature. When the PC is turned on, it goes to what I can only assume is 100% full blast and does not stop until the PC is turned off. The CPU is just hovering around 1-3% usage the whole time sitting at Windows desktop.

    #10 29 days ago

    1) Replace the fan with a slower rated one or add a variable resistor to control the speed. Lots of power supplies have an optional speed control rheostat.

    2) Thanks for doing this thread, been considering a virtual pin for pins I have no interest in owning but would like to try out. Maybe if I like it enough buy the real thing, beats waiting for a show to come around.

    #11 29 days ago

    I did a Google search on what you bought, and it seems there are lots of complaints about it being loud. I'd break out the meter, if you're getting 5V and 12V I'd use it.

    But, I wouldn't have bought a used power supply. In the spirit of what you're trying to do, as long as it meters good it's probably fine.

    Quoted from vestaviascott:

    Its not only loud but it appears to have no variation based on temperature. When the PC is turned on, it goes to what I can only assume is 100% full blast and does not stop until the PC is turned off.

    #12 26 days ago

    Good suggestion on the meter test. I'll have to research where to probe there with the DMM. I called EVGA and they informed me that this is a single speed fan, so it has no variable speed throttling in the circuit. I can't imagine that speed is this wide open however.

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