1949 United Mfg "Utah" woodrail cleaning & project

(Topic ID: 130381)

1949 United Mfg "Utah" woodrail cleaning & project


By PinballFever

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 131 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 months ago by PinballFever
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 43 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    UTAH Backbox Top (resized).jpg
    polyurethane.jpg
    20151023_213258.jpg
    20151023_211252.jpg
    20151013_201548.jpg
    58_gottlieb_posts.jpg
    20151005_202251.jpg
    20151005_202226.jpg
    20151004_212354.jpg
    20151004_212057.jpg
    20151004_204029.jpg
    20151004_203956.jpg
    20151004_210927.jpg
    20151004_201747.jpg
    20151004_202720.jpg
    20151004_194300.jpg

    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider PinballFever.
    Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

    #1 3 years ago

    Is this forum back up fully? I hope so, it's the best.

    I'm getting ready to clean my 1949 United "Utah" playfield for the first time before waxing it and would like advice from those of you who have experience cleaning United pinball machines. It's in good condition.

    Bruce

    #5 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Need pics, but the less you try to "clean" it, the better.

    Thanks vid! I thought about posting this question in your playfield restoration thread because of your excellent advice but decided to add a new topic after considering that United machines are different. Was hoping another United pinball owner might share cleaning and waxing advice here.

    I agree, I want to keep it as original as possible and to do this right because this is a "one time shot" at cleaning the playfield which hasn't been cleaned in years. Here are pics. Will post close ups later today or this evening.

    I'm ordering new balls from PBR for this game. I played one or two games as a test to be sure everything worked then turned it off. Don't want to play it again until it's been properly cleaned and waxed to preserve the playfield.

    Btw I have ME and alcohol but I'm afraid to use it due to it's abrasive properties. Also have used ZEP Citrus Degreaser but again it might be too "harsh" for this almost 70 year old machine.

    UTAH Playfield 2.jpg

    One closeup of the flipper area, will take and post closeups of the other playfield areas.

    UTAH Pinball Flippers.JPG

    #6 3 years ago
    Quoted from oldcarz:

    There's an excellent tutorial posted in another thread by Rat about playfield cleaning and waxing:

    I've been reading that thread but decided to get further advice. This is a pretty old machine and United may have used different methods for painting their playfields.

    Quoted from oldcarz:

    Plenty of products are discussed on these forums as being kind and won't remove paint. So go slow and easy.

    Great advice oldcarz, that's what I want to do.

    #12 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Wax with Blitz. Avoid any silicone based (liquid) "waxes".

    How about Johnson's wax?

    Took the glass off for pics of the playfield. Vote to keep it "original" and clean/wax or should it be touched up? I'm leaning towards keeping it original.

    UTAH Playfield top.jpg

    UTAH Playfield upper.jpg

    UTAH Playfield lower.jpg

    UTAH Playfield bottom.jpg

    #13 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Carefully wipe up any dirt with Naphtha on a soft cloth.

    I see "Naphtha" mentioned many times here. Which one do you recommend? There's one I see at Lowe's but not sure if it's the right one.

    #18 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I love that giant cock and balls in the art!

    I didn't see that until you brought it up!

    Quoted from vid1900:

    Wax it up, and play it.
    If you love it and play it all the time, you might think about a touch up and clear coat.

    Will do, your advice is much appreciated, vid.

    #21 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Er, sorry about that.......

    No need to be sorry..... maybe it's some kind of "subliminal advertising".

    Quoted from jjpm:

    Leave the PF original. No clearcoat or touchup. Light clean and wax.

    I do like the PF original. It makes the game more like a "museum piece".

    The cabinet doesn't look too bad for it's age. I'm thinking about cleaning it first then maybe touching it up later.

    DSC_0909.jpg

    DSC_0919.jpg

    #23 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Nah, pinball designers don't do that kind of thing.

    Neither do car designers.

    tik7ukunfnzaflav9bq7.jpg

    #24 3 years ago

    vid, oldcarz, rat, Steve and jjpm- you guys are the best. Thanks!

    I will most likely use naphtha to clean the playfield as suggested then wax it.

    Caddyshack Awesome.jpeg

    #27 3 years ago
    Quoted from SteveFury:

    please let us know what product you used and how it went.

    Steve- Good idea, I'll post here how it went with before/after pics as soon as I do it. I'm waiting until I'm better from a bad cough, throat etc. Doctor's orders to rest for a while.

    #29 3 years ago

    Thanks! I finally gave up and went to urgent care after two sleepless nights of coughing.

    Nyquil is useless. Had to get an RX for narcotic cough syrup....

    1 week later
    #30 3 years ago

    Took about a week or so but the bad cough is gone and I'm back to normal.

    That product seems to be "banned" here (same as in California). Is this good?

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-pt-Paint-Thinner-PA12779/203713853?keyword=naphtha

    Thanks guys. I'm ready to get this game cleaned up.

    #32 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    That will soften and remove the paint from your playfield.

    I'll see if I can order it online. How about either of these two products?

    amazon.com link »

    amazon.com link »

    #36 3 years ago

    I ordered it and will start as soon as it arrives. Can't wait to start!

    Quoted from oldcarz:

    ou should be able to get VM&P Naphtha at Ace or Lowe's for a fraction of that price. (I did)

    It's "illegal" here in Utah and California.

    https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=24832

    #38 3 years ago
    Quoted from SteveFury:

    Work small sections at a time. Work with a clean section of your rag (they collect soil right away) and *constantly check your rag or ME for signs of removed paint. If you see hints of paint then STOP and move to a different section.

    Will do just what you suggested. Thanks Steve.

    BTW I've never used naphtha but it's most likely not safe to breathe the vapors. Is it ok to use it inside the room with windows open and large fan blowing it away from me?

    #40 3 years ago
    Quoted from SteveFury:

    I never had any vapor problems with it.

    Ok. I became nauseous and almost lost my dinner after breathing the ZEP Citrus Degreaser fumes while cleaning with it. Started using a fan with it and the windows open.

    On a side note. Should I change the topic to include "project" and post updates here as I do the whole game? The information may be beneficial to other United pinball owners.

    2 months later
    #42 3 years ago
    Quoted from SteveFury:

    PinballFever said:
    Ok. I became nauseous and almost lost my dinner after breathing the ZEP Citrus Degreaser fumes while cleaning with it. Started using a fan with it and the windows open.
    On a side note. Should I change the topic to include "project" and post updates here as I do the whole game? The information may be beneficial to other United pinball owners.
    I would if it were me.

    I'm back to working on the machine and I've changed the topic as Steve suggests.

    Playfield is stripped except for the 4 pop bumpers.

    The pop bumper caps seem to be held on with a (I forget the name of it) pin. Do you have to remove the complete assembly to be able to access this pin?

    The pop bumper skirts seem chewed up. I'll call PBR tomorrow and see if Steve has new ones. Any other sources for these skirts?

    It looks like I should get mylar for underneath the bumpers to protect that area?

    I assume I'll need to remove the bolts and unsolder to be able to remove the bumpers. Any advice or caution I should heed?

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    20150927_171242.jpg

    #44 3 years ago

    That's it. Been a long time since I heard that name.

    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    Just bend the tines back together underneath the cap and pull the pin out

    I don't seem to be able to see or access the tines underneath the caps. It's like they're inside something. Please advise.

    This seems a rather shoddy way for United Mfg to attach the pop bumper caps and they seem rather loose like that.

    Thanks for the help, Dirt.
    Bruce

    #46 3 years ago

    Will try to get good pictures of it after work today.

    Bruce

    #48 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    DirtFlipper said:
    Picture?
    Will try to get good pictures of it after work today.

    Got the caps off. The cotter pin tines were inside the metal ring so I moved the metal rings down to access them.

    20150928_191248.jpg

    I've never removed pop bumper caps before. What is the order you should do this? Unsolder first or unscrew the pop bumper bodies and the yoke nuts?

    20150928_192532.jpg

    Thanks again,
    Bruce

    #49 3 years ago

    Looking at the pop bumper photo. It looks like I can remove the yoke nuts on bottom playfield then unsolder the bulb socket inside the pop bumper body then unscrew the pop bumper body?

    If so how do you unsolder the bulb socket without burning the pop bumper body?

    Bruce

    #50 3 years ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    I used to put non adhesive mylar underneath pop bumpers but after reading that Clay thinks they do more damage than not having

    Thanks for chiming in Shapeshifter! I've seen many of your posts and woodrail topics.

    Do you think this game doesn't need mylar around the pop bumpers?

    Btw, it plays great and I like the action while playing it. I plan to post a gameplay video of the game after it's cleaned up.

    Bruce

    #52 3 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    Undo the yoke nuts first. I then like to remove the whole coil and bracket, so it's out of the way for unsoldering the socket leads (the coil/bracket will just dangle to the side, attached by the coil wires).

    Got it. I think you're talking about unsoldering the socket leads from underneath the playfield?

    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    But it looks like those bumper skirts may be the style with the graphite ring and not the spoon switch. PBR won't have that style (nor anyone else), so you may have to either modify the game to use spoon switches, or modify a new skirt to work with the graphite ring. I think there have been a couple threads here on that.

    So that's why it doesn't look like the typical pop bumper. I'd like to modify a new skirt to work with the graphite ring if possible. Will look for threads here related to that.

    Thanks Dirt,
    Bruce

    #56 3 years ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    To mylar or not to mylar?

    I'm leaning towards not using the non adhesive mylar around the pop bumpers because there's no paint in that area and this pin is for home use only.

    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Here is the thread that 'Pin-it' started and I joined in. Easy fix if you want to stay with the original carbon rings.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/passive-bumper-skirt-modify#post-1218429

    Thanks for chiming in, Steve. Very much appreciated.

    I read the thread and it sounds like using the spoon switch is an easier fix?

    What is the difference between the carbon and graphite rings? Is the carbon ring the the circular wire on bottom of playfield that actuates the bumpers when touched by the metal from the skirt?

    The graphite ring is the one on pop bumper body that comes down to push the ball away?

    Did Steve at PBR have the graphite rings in stock when you emailed him a year ago?

    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    yes - that's where they're soldered.

    Ok, I'm still not sure exactly where to unsolder but will look at it after removing the coil assembly.

    Thanks again everyone for your help with this.
    Bruce

    #59 3 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    I've circled one socket lead in your picture. There should be another one on the other side. The leads poke down below the playfield and the wires attach there (with solder).

    Thanks for doing this for me. I see it now.

    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    In my opinion from what you have written just change the skirts as shown in the earlier thread, its a lot cheaper if the bumper performance is still good.

    Good advice and I'm going to heed it. The game would be more original and it'll be easier to keep the carbon rings.

    I think the pop bumper performance is still good because the action is pretty lively. (It doesn't look like it at first sight but it's actually a lot of fun to play)

    I'm thinking of making a gameplay action video before the skirt change and posting the link here. That way you guys can let me know what you think of the performance because I'm not sure how lively they should be for a game of this vintage.

    Bruce

    #61 3 years ago
    Quoted from SteveFury:

    I hate the fact those carbon rings are a consumable item, like tires on your car.
    I was thinking to experiment with using a steel ring that would work a triac to operate the scoring circuit instead.

    Let me know if you do this and how you did it. I'm interested. A steel ring would probably be more durable.

    Bruce

    #62 3 years ago
    Quoted from PinballFever:

    I'm thinking of making a gameplay action video before the skirt change and posting the link here.

    I vacuumed the playfield, wiped it clean, put the posts, new rubbers and caps back on temporarily so I could make and upload a video of the game in action to Youtube.

    It's not working 100% but the pop bumpers seem to have good performance and this way I can make another video for comparison after cleaning and waxing it.

    I'd like to see what you guys think of the action and if the bumpers are good? The flippers were rebuilt before I bought the game.

    Enjoy,
    Bruce

    Edit:
    This is the new Youtube video of the game in action after I fixed it. The old one was deleted.

    #64 3 years ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    But, what is that awful buzzing???!!
    Hold relay coil?
    Or is another coil stuck on?

    Yes, it was working fine until I put it all back on and started up the game so I could make a video of the gameplay.

    The game won't fully reset now. It stops at 900,000.

    I think it's something simple. Will take care of it.

    After it's taken care of, I'll strip the playfield again for a good cleaning and waxing and will post the progress here.

    Bruce

    #66 3 years ago
    Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

    Would love to see a video "after" you've gotten that buzzing fixed. That worries me.

    I'll post another video after the buzzing is fixed and replace the one on Youtube.

    Something is keeping the 10,000 Step Up Unit coil energized causing the buzzing.

    I think it's because the game isn't completing reset sequence because the 900,000 and 90,000 lights stay lit when it stops "resetting".

    Suggestions what I should look for? I'm not sure what the start up sequence is. I may need to buy a United schematic from SteveFury. (the one he made)

    Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

    Great looking game, and it's the first time I've seen one played.

    Thanks. I'm wondering if the "light show" of the bumpers is supposed to look like that or if it's an electric current issue.

    I won't play the game until the buzzing (10,000 Step Up Unit coil staying energized) is fixed.

    Bruce

    20151001_203608.jpg

    #67 3 years ago

    I started a new topic in the EM Tech sub forum where others can learn from troubleshooting this issue.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1949-united-mfg-utah-pinball-loud-buzzing

    Bruce

    #68 3 years ago

    The game is fixed and is playing great now.

    It was one or two passive bumper switches stuck closed when the new tighter rubbers were pressing against them. (Using the Harbor Freight head magnifying glasses with lights made it easier to see them as I gapped the switches correctly with the adjuster.)

    I made and uploaded a new video of the game in action to Youtube. (the old video has been deleted)

    Enjoy
    Bruce

    #73 3 years ago
    Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

    Fantastic! She looks like she is a joy to play.
    Thanks to Vid for Revealing the innuendo. Now I can't stop looking at "it" and the obvious drain slot.

    Thanks. I had to play her again this evening while sipping a Redd's Strawberry Ale and having good feelings about the game.
    I agree. It's like right in front of you and it's pointing to the dreaded "drain zone".

    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Bruce, that game's a beauty and cleaned up nicely. Looks like a really fun player. Congrats!

    Thanks Nick! It's not finished. I'm going to strip the playfield again and clean it with naphtha then wax it. I'll make another video of it in action after that's done.

    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    Very nice indeed.
    Bet it is hard to beat!

    Thanks.
    It seems to be hard to beat although I did get over 5 million in one game which won me a replay.

    It was used for gambling. The operator would pay for the replays won then reset the replays to zero by going to the bottom of the cabinet and hitting it or flipping a switch. (not sure yet which it is with this game)

    Quoted from SteveFury:

    I love the colors on that one, looks fun to play. Excellent job!

    Thanks! It's not finished yet. I have more to do with the game.

    Bruce

    #74 3 years ago

    I am going to miss playing the game when I strip the playfield again to clean it with naphtha then give it a good waxing.

    I have a couple of questions.

    1. The metal guides and posts. Do you pull them out or leave them when cleaning/waxing?

    2. The sunken inserts. I'd like to remove and glue them back in or reposition them then glue them in place so they're level with the playfield.
    What is the best way to do this? (I'm going through Vid's playfield restoration guide again to see how others are doing this)

    o-din did say he just pops the inserts out then glues them in so they're level. Maybe I can get him to chime in here about how he does it?

    Bruce
    Edit: Forgot to add the pictures.

    20151003_190658.jpg
    20151003_190717.jpg
    20151003_200143.jpg

    #76 3 years ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    For the metal posts, it depends on the condition of the surrounding wood/ink. Yours look good - I would not risk damaging by removing the metal guides. Polish in place.

    I agree with you and will do this.

    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    For the inserts, yes, I pop them out if completely loose or heat from below slowly with a hair dryer then push out. A couple of days of locktite gel in the blue bottle and push carefully into place ensuring level. Sets very quickly.

    Just to be sure. You pop them out through the top then put them back in from the top?

    Great advice. Thanks so much, Nick.
    Bruce

    #79 3 years ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    I push out from the bottom, then reinsert from the top.

    Got it. Thanks again. That means I'll need to unscrew and move the light sockets. Good time to replace them with the lower heat bulbs. #47 I think.

    Quoted from SteveFury:

    If you try to pop the inserts out and they are really stuck then I wouldn't risk breaking them. I'd put some acrylic colour around the edge with a fine brush, let it dry and then fill the cavity with Polycrylic.

    Ok I'll try that too. You're talking about acrylic paints touching it up then fill with Polycrylic?

    Bruce

    #80 3 years ago

    I have three more questions:

    1. Should I just clean the rubber guide on the side or replace it? I've seen a topic where someone replaced theirs with something similiar.

    2. Carefully remove the staples on the instruction cards and clean/wax the wood apron?
    How about cleaning or preserving the instruction cards? I'd like to scan copies of them, maybe for IPDB.

    3. The playfield seems a little sunken in on the bottom right. Should this be fixed?

    Thanks again,
    Bruce

    20151003_210431.jpg
    20151003_210455.jpg
    20151003_210641.jpg

    #83 3 years ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Cards: you will likely destroy them by removing.

    There must be a way to remove the staples without destroying the cards and carefully tap them back in the same holes?

    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Rubber: you could take an xacto and slice a rubber open then in half.

    I guess you're talking about using a playfield rubber?

    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Separation- the apron is tacked in place with many nails. One has worked its way loose. You'll have to inspect closely to see if the nail is broken or has simply backed out.

    I'll examine it and report here.

    On a side note, this game didn't come with a rod to hold the playfield up at an angle. I have to lean it against the backbox. Is there a better way here?

    Thanks again for your help, Nick
    Bruce

    #86 3 years ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    Remember, the enemy of good is better!

    So true. I'll be very careful with the instruction cards if I even try to remove them that is. It IS nice to have originals.

    Quoted from SteveFury:

    Me, personally: I'd carefully remove the card staples. I'd pry them up by carefully slipping an exacto knife under a staple end, putting a piece of cardboard or thin metal plate under the exacto knife blade to protect the card.

    I may try that but will stop if the staples are too hard to remove.

    Quoted from SteveFury:

    You can easily make a side rubber. You don't need to slit a rubber lengthwise, just cut in half. Then tack one end, stretch a little bit and tack the other side.

    Cut in half as in slit the cut end of the rubber?

    Quoted from SteveFury:

    Here's a grainy photo of my Singapore ball release.

    That's a great photo. Did you reprint the instruction card?

    Bruce

    #87 3 years ago

    I'm stripping the playfield again but this time I'm documenting each step with photos.

    THE POP BUMPERS:

    Here the pop bumper caps are held in place with a cotter pin.

    I am not sure if an operator added the cotter pins and holes for them.

    20151004_201124.jpg

    You can see you have to carefully bend in the cotter pins so they don't interfere with the movement of the bumper rings.

    20151004_201427.jpg

    THE PASSIVE BUMPERS:

    The passive bumpers have black tape on the bottom and they squeeze into holes in the playfield here.

    20151004_194300.jpg

    They need to be positioned so the cut out portion is facing the slingshot rubber.

    20151004_202720.jpg

    More to come tomorrow.

    Bruce

    #88 3 years ago
    Quoted from LyonsRonnie1:

    What a nice old game! Looks great, good job!

    Thank you! I can't wait until it's finished and I hope you enjoy the progress reports too.

    Bruce

    #89 3 years ago

    PLAYFIELD POSTS:

    The posts seem to be original and they're a marbled texture. Never seen this before.

    20151004_201747.jpg

    20151004_210927.jpg

    REBOUND and BALL GATE:

    I have a tumbler but I think I am just going to clean them so they'll retain the "patina" of this original game.

    Would like your feedback though. Would you tumble and polish these metal parts?

    20151004_203956.jpg

    20151004_204029.jpg

    More to come after work.
    Bruce

    #90 3 years ago

    BALL SHOOTER COVER:

    You can see the front of the ball shooter cover looks good but the back part is rusted.

    Are there any concerns I should have about Evaporust removing the red lettering on front if I soak it?

    20151005_202226.jpg

    20151005_202251.jpg

    How about this part hidden underneath the ball shooter cover where the ball lift is? Should I fortify it in some way? I'm thinking I should.

    20151004_212057.jpg

    Here is the separation I found after lifting the playfield and examining the edges.

    I am not sure if the wood apron is meant to be permanently bound to the playfield or not. I could add a little wood glue then hold it together with a vise?

    20151004_212354.jpg

    I have the playfield stripped except for the pop bumpers. I plan to get a soldering iron, solder and flux within the next couple of days for unsoldering the bulb socket leads.

    I'm also ordering new phillips head screws to replace the slot head ones but I plan to keep all the original screws and other items in a bag with the game for easy reversal.

    Thanks in advance.
    Bruce

    #92 3 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    No, just nailed. The separation is probably from lifting up on the siderail to raise the playfield. Can (hopefully) squeeze it back together, no glue.

    Got it. Will try that and hopefully fix the separation.

    This game didn't come with a rod to hold the playfield up at an angle which makes it difficult to actuate components on the top for testing while watching the bottom of the playfield or the backbox. Any suggestions for this?

    Thanks again, Dirt.

    Bruce

    #100 3 years ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Easiest is to lean against the backbox (at least for me).
    I honestly don't use prop rods if I can avoid it. Had a bad experience, ha-ha.

    I'm used to being able to rest the playfields on a rod for short times. I leave it on the rod for as short as possible because I've heard they warp playfields. I'll just lean it against the backbox like I've been doing so far.

    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Oh, and the marbled posts are pretty standard through the mid-60s-ish. Apparently the plastic would not form a solid color for some reason, from the theories I've heard/read. I love the marbled coloring, but whatever caused it cannot be reproduced (again, heresay).

    Interesting. I didn't know this. I think the marbled colors of these posts go great with the game.

    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Regardless, be careful with your pop caps.

    I will. My cat did jump up there and broke the edge of one of them. Now I keep that room closed.

    Bruce

    #101 3 years ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    I would just lightly clean the back.
    If you accidentally remove that red writing you can never get it original again.
    Enemy of good.....

    Agreed. I was thinking of wirewheeling the back then Minwaxing it to protect it like SteveFury does but I am not sure if the Minwax will be ok against the wood under the ball shooter cover.

    Bruce

    #103 3 years ago
    Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

    Just use some Novus 2 and those old marbled posts will shine.

    Wow! Those are some beautiful marbled posts.

    Bruce

    #104 3 years ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    I've dropped a playfield on my head. Only once!

    That would be nasty. Especially with the weight and all the electromechanicals coming down on your head. Were you ok?

    Bruce

    #105 3 years ago
    Quoted from PhilGreg:

    Since you're not going for a full out restore, and trying to keep this machine original, I think the whitey-white rubbers kinda stick out. Would be interesting if there were some "vintaging" process, such as exposing them to smoke or whatnot, to help them blend in a little better.

    You're correct. This machine is in pretty nice original condition and I'd like to keep it that way. I'll think of some way to do what you're suggesting with "vintaging" the rubbers and post the ideas here. I'm also listening if anyone else here has any ideas to throw in.

    Quoted from PhilGreg:

    Constructive comment here, I'm digging your thread and whatever you do it's all good.

    I'm glad you're enjoying this thread. The only other "Utah" pinball machine I know of is fully restored in the Paris pinball museum and the video of it didn't really show the gameplay because the owner just plunged all 5 balls into the game.

    I'm trying to provide documentation and good close up photos of this machine for everyone here to benefit from.

    I plan to make another video of this game in action for you all to enjoy when it's finished.

    Bruce

    #107 3 years ago
    Quoted from P2K:

    The first time I replaced side rubber I did this:
    http://www.seriousviewers.com/jjpnball/dbump.htm

    Quoted from P2K:

    The picture frame pliers (brad setter) make it much easier to nail.

    These are great suggestions. I'm thinking a hole drilled in two pieces of wood with a razor blade mounted between them would make it easier to pull and slit the rubber in half sideways.

    The picture frame pliers I should know about because I was a professional picture framer for 10 years but it's a great idea. I'll have to try it too.

    Bruce

    #108 3 years ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    The rebound rubber was used on williams baseball games from the same period late 50's through early 60's. It was green not white. recently Scott (G43crazy) had some made but he could only ger black. See his thread linked https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baseball-pitch-and-bat-d-shaped-playfield-rubber#post-2684153

    That's the thread I saw and was thinking of. Just favorited it so I don't lose the link to it again.

    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    I think I would clean it what you have and reattach if possible.

    I will try cleaning it but how would I straighten it out? I think it's supposed to be straight along the siderail?

    Bruce

    #109 3 years ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Minor head wound, but I was fine (once I pulled the bulb glass out of my scalp and calmed down).

    Ouch! I'm glad everything was ok and I'll be more careful with any prop bars from now on.

    Bruce

    #118 3 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    Just play the game. Air and time will take care of the white soon enough.

    Very true and this game will be played often.

    It's more fun to play than the other two games which are fun (Palooka and Paul Bunyan) and has so many strategies and ways to win.

    Bruce

    #119 3 years ago
    Quoted from P2K:

    The first time I replaced side rubber I did this:
    http://www.seriousviewers.com/jjpnball/dbump.htm

    Alan,

    How did you build the wood with the exacto blade for the "splitter"? I've been thinking about different ways to do this.

    Possibly clamp two pieces of wood together then drill a hole in the middle and mount a shaving blade between them?

    Bruce

    #120 3 years ago

    The new pop bumper skirts arrived. Steve told me I'd have to file or cut off the point so they're round like the old ones. (you can see the "point" on the top edge of the first skirt on the left)

    Novus 2 also arrived from PBR for polishing the playfield posts.

    I will probably tumble the playfield post screws and other visible metal parts like the rebound rubber and ball gate to get a nice polish on them.

    I'm waiting for the Weller soldering iron and base to arrive so I can unsolder the pop bumpers from the playfield.

    Bruce

    20151013_201548.jpg

    1 week later
    #121 3 years ago

    After cleaning the playfield posts. I started cleaning the broken pop bumper cap piece as a test and discovered old glue on it. There were clear drops of glue on the bottom at the broken edges.

    It must have just come off but it fits very well back together. I put it back together temporarily for the second photo so you can see what it looks like. Will carefully remove the white areas and super glue the pieces back together.

    Bruce

    20151023_211252.jpg

    20151023_213258.jpg

    #123 3 years ago
    Quoted from ramegoom:

    A word of caution when using super glue or cyanoacrylate based materials. The adhesive "outgasses" in an enclosed area, which causes any clear plastic to fog with a sort of haze.

    Thanks for chiming in. This is interesting information. (I googled it)

    What adhesive do you recommend in place of super glue? Epoxy?

    Bruce

    #125 3 years ago
    Quoted from ramegoom:

    I get these small packs that you cut open and stir with a popsicle stick, only about 1/4 oz. or so. Called "double/bubble" made by Hardman, and available at McMaster Carr.

    Ok. Will try it. Thanks for the recommendation.
    Bruce

    11 months later
    #126 2 years ago

    An update on this game. I cleaned it up last month for when a couple of friends visited during their vacations and they really enjoyed it.

    Here's a photo showing the top of the backbox with half of it cleaned using ZEP Degreaser.

    Btw, I called about 10 different local glass shops and they quoted prices ranging from $76 to almost $100 for a 21"x41" tempered glass with polished edges and no bugs/marks. Does anyone know a cheaper source in the Salt Lake City area?

    I did try Pinball Life but they don't sell that size.

    Bruce

    UTAH Backbox Top (resized).jpg

    1 year later
    #127 10 months ago

    I wanted to thank everyone involved for the help with this game and summarize what was done.

    The playfield was cleaned with naphtha then waxed and new rubbers installed.

    A new tempered glass was cut locally for $36 and I gave away the old non-tempered playfield glass.

    This game was a lot of fun to play but I sold it to a good home locally where it'll be well taken care of. Their son is an experienced tech that should be able to fix any issues for them even without a schematic.

    Peace out, I hope you all enjoyed this topic as much as I did.
    Bruce

    #129 10 months ago

    This morning I emailed Michael Schiess the Executive Director of the PPM asking if he knows the background as to how GC came about and also asked for photos of the museum card and game Wayne. It's in the "Pacific Pinball Annex" according to him and is only viewable or playable during special events.

    Soon I'll post a topic for my new game and share the link here.
    Bruce

    #130 10 months ago

    BTW, I wanted to add that it seems the name of the game, "Utah" came from one of the USS battleships, the USS Utah. (and the ship was named after the state Utah according to Wikipedia so go figure)

    This is from Craig Smallish, a woodrail collector:

    Craig Smallish, "Interesting fact: United Manufacturing began producing what on the surface appeared to be purely a state series, but was actually an homage to the USS Naval fleet of WWII. Beginning with their conversion games produced during the wartime ban, '42 Midway, '42 Arizona, '43 Santa Fe, '44 Idaho, and '44 Oklahoma. In fact the Arizona back box side panels feature a mast with naval burgee pennants flying.

    One could easily believe the Utah was also named after a famous battleship, however the post war UMC state machines don't have any obvious graphics which could be attributed to their nautical namesakes. That being said, the Utah, Oklahoma, Nevada, all played significant roles during the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor. Even the Wisconsin was launched on the second anniversary, December 7th of 1943, and Hawaii of course is the location of the famous harbor (all UMC pinball titles). Given these facts, I believe it's too much of a coincidence to think that the post-war machines were not also namesake homages to the WWII ships. As an added note, UMC kept their very military-looking logo until at least 1960."

    #131 10 months ago
    Quoted from wayner:

    I would love to know the background as to how GC came about? I bet someone at Williams had engagement in the rural industry-Wayne

    Quoted from PinballFever:

    This morning I emailed Michael Schiess the Executive Director of the PPM asking if he knows the background as to how GC came about and also asked for photos of the museum card and game Wayne.

    Michael replied. The GC in the museum has no instruction cards or any information, it was donated by someone. He accepted my offer to send him a copy or scan of my instruction card for their game though.

    It's such an obscure title, I'm not sure how much we can find out about it.

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 24.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    The MOD Couple
    $ 36.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 48.00
    Cabinet - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 150.00
    Playfield - Protection
    Republic Of Pinball
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 9.99
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 5.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Doc's Pinball Shop
    $ 209.99
    Lighting - Led
    PinballBulbs
    $ 7,199.00
    Pinball Machine
    Classic Game Rooms
    $ 25.99
    Playfield - Other
    Lee's Parts
    $ 115.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 999.00
    Pinball Machine
    Mircoplayfields
    From: $ 19.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 89.99
    Lighting - Led
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 96.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 15.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Metal-Mods
    $ 229.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 229.99
    From: $ 220.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    CzTV Mods
    From: $ 9.99
    From: $ 24.99
    Lighting - Led
    Lee's Parts
    $ 269.00

    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider PinballFever.
    Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside