(Topic ID: 78465)

$40 F-14 find of the week

By Tsskinne

10 years ago


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  • 39 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Tsskinne
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider wayout440.
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#10 10 years ago

Wow! pretty lucky that the battery acid didn't hose the board in a big way....nice find. I wish I could find just about any game at that price too.

The fun part for me is going through them for an assessment right when you get them, enjoy.

Now you can join the Pinside F-14 club!

#19 10 years ago
Quoted from Tony01:

WOW. What a find! Congrats. Now how are you going to top the next purchase?

He's going to over pay for an A-lister...which he later will sell under the pretense "I am just trying to get what I have into it"

#27 10 years ago
Quoted from FoghornLeghorn:

I'm not sure I understand why everyone wants to pull Mylar off. What's the point of it? The poster above says it speeds up the gameplay. Is that the only reason?

Not the only reason, my opinion:

Yes it feels a little faster when the ball is riding directly on the table.

Aesthetic reasons. Mylar scratches and hazes over time. Without mylar, the artwork is vibrant and with more contrast. Sometimes the mylar develops defects, lifting/bubbles/crease.

I feel it is not needed in a home use game, as usually it's not on all day getting hundreds of plays, so it takes a very long time to wear on the game if it is kept clean and waxed. In a commercial environment it just feels to me like the operator mentality is "We are not going to take the time to properly clean and wax this game so slap a mylar band-aid on it."

Playfield touchups and repairs can't be done unless mylar is removed.

Sometimes I do leave it around the pops and the small pieces in front of the slings, provided it is in excellent shape.

#36 10 years ago

I found the heat gun to work better than the freeze spray and heck of a lot cheaper than buying freeze or canned air. Softens the glue, and then pull it up, working it a little at a time you will get it in one whole sheet. All the work is in getting the damn glue off afterward.

Work slow, start with the gun 10' away or so and move it closer while keeping it moving. The tricks are to keep it moving first of all, not to keep it in one place and melt or burn anything. The other is to keep your hand near the area, feeling the playfield and pulling the mylar. The heat will become too much for your hand before you can burn the playfield. I've taken off around a 3'X 2' sheet of mylar on my Taxi playfield in under 10 minutes. Then spent 2 hours removing the %$@! glue.

#38 10 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

sometimes heat gun is good, sometimes not. All depends on the playfield. Sometimes freeze spray won't do shit. Those old pop rings, are indestructible to freeze spray. but heat gun works great on those.

Exactly, it's really dependent on the game. I had some minor lifting on a High Speeds playfield inserts that I had removed mylar on. Upon close inspection I don't think it would have been avoidable with either method. What I would advise is that with either method expect the worst, and be prepared for possible damage, minimize this by going SLOW. Don't freak out if you lose some artwork. In the long run, every game is unique, you will learn, and you will succeed....don't stop trying.

#40 10 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

''because it was bubbling''

This is the exactly the reason it SHOULD be removed...IMO.

#42 10 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

which happens very quickly without mylar.

- ah, yes you are free to disagree. I do disgree with this statement. My friend and I have different games on different locations, and these games do get played. For years the wear in the areas without mylar have remained unchanged. Even the wear spots are the same shape and size as they were years ago, you'd be hard pressed to prove the wear has increased. I think it is mostly paranoia.

#44 10 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

It really depends on the game- what games/titles did you find this to remain unchanged?
I had a Firepower. Previous owner pulled the mylar that had protected the playfield, he used a heat gun. It crackled/planked everywhere, pulling inserts along the way. 100-150 games later, there was playfield wear, where there was once mylar and none. Had a Raven, same thing. Mylar protecting the playfield that looked good. Once the mylar was removed, it pulled inserts and crackled in different areas. Because of it crackling, it can slightly lift the paint and wear will happen.
An old SS Bally- they wear if you look at them funny. I've had 250 pins through my hands in 8 years, I've seen some interesting things.
All I'm saying is, it's a proceed with caution type of thing, because often times it's risk vs. reward.

Okay. All I can do is comment on my personal experiences. Realize I am not a big collector/refurbisher. All were done with a heat gun.

Mata Hari. Game was bought where a LOT of the paint was already coming up and was slapped over with mylar. I lost some additional paint around these areas, but I expected that.

Strikes and Spares. Removed only spot areas (pops and slings). Virtually no paint loss. There was a dent in the mylar by the sling and I lost additional paint at the dent, but had to remove the mylar to fix it anyway.

Pinbot. Lost almost nothing except for insert ink on some inserts, but the inserts without mylar were also wearing off, so again, something I would have expected for the age and condition of the game.

Taxi, pulled off the 1/2 playfield sheet or whatever size it is - covers nearly half of the playfield from the Marilyn target bank to the player. Pulled it off in ten minutes and lost no paint, no art, no insert ink...with the heat gun.

High Speed, did almost the same as Taxi, but in this case lost some insert ink on a couple of the speedometer inserts.

#66 10 years ago
Quoted from DarkWizard:

Finally a useful error message! It's telling you exactly what to do
A simple adjustment should do the trick.

Sorry, but that is not what the message means. This message indicates that the CPU RAM chip at location U25 on the CPU board has forgotten the game's bookkeeping and options settings.
It could be caused by something as simple as dead batteries, or something else...hopefully not battery corrosion.

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