(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #26 Crash's Thingiverse Pinball Search Links Posted by Crash (3 years ago)

Post #35 Speaker lights for metal back box Stern Posted by Darscot (3 years ago)

Post #119 Pinball Button Remover Posted by Ashram56 (3 years ago)

Post #212 Swinks Shapeways Downloads Posted by swinks (3 years ago)

Post #682 Gravestone Cross Posted by swinks (2 years ago)

Post #683 Power Supply Fan Adapter (Modern Stern) Posted by plasticbugs (2 years ago)

Post #1049 Ball holder Posted by swinks (2 years ago)

Post #1696 Backbox Light Baffles Posted by John_I (2 years ago)

Post #1721 Spike 2 LED speaker panel Posted by dudah (2 years ago)

Post #1946 Target stabilizers Posted by bigguybbr (1 year ago)


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#170 3 years ago

I use dedicated build plates for each material. I prep the plate for PETG with Windex, and alcohol for the PLA (per the Prusa manual). I get excellent results with both, and haven’t had any issues switching between materials. I do push a little extra through during the change filament procedure just to be sure.

I really like the Prusa filaments, both PETG and PLA. I wish shipping wasn’t so costly. Hatchbox PLA is a little stringy. Amazon Basics PLA is a stringy mess. I could probably dial some of that out with my slicer settings. I just haven’t spent the time and effort.

2 weeks later
#249 3 years ago

I wanted to mention another tool that you can add to your bag of tricks. OpenSCAD is an open source solid 3d CAD modeler and is free to use under GPL. It offers a degree of precision that you won't find with Tinkercad. It is unusual in that it is not an interactive modeler. You create objects by writing a descriptive script. While it is not meant to compete with high end commercial software, there are some things that it does very well.

I created this Robby the Robot model in OpenSCAD a few years ago, while I was learning the application and its scripting syntax.

Screen Shot 2020-12-29 at 12.19.30 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-12-29 at 12.19.30 PM (resized).png

1 week later
#310 3 years ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

I printed a building with PLA, what's the best glue to hold pieces together. I'm using HF super glue and looking for something better.

I've used Testors Cement for Plastic Models (the tube type, not the brush on liquid). It seems to hold up well.

6 months later
#922 2 years ago
Quoted from BowlingJim:

Picked this up off Facebook yesterday for $60 with 4 rolls of PLA+. I think I did pretty good for my first printer. If I like it I am going to buy a good one.
[quoted image]

A good score! That Monoprice Select Mini goes for just under $200 on Amazon. It's a good starter printer, and there are lots of online resources from other users sharing their experiences with it. I used one for a couple of months, but outgrew it pretty quickly. It's become a standby unit for small builds since I got my Prusa.

#926 2 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

see if it has thermal runaway protection.

Judging from the build plate, he has a v2 MP Select Mini. It may have thermal runaway protection (I think from version 40 firmware and later.)

Monoprice does not support user upgraded firmware, but you can find downloads and instructions here:
https://mpselectmini.com/firmware/motion_controller

2 months later
#1017 2 years ago

Tinkercad is surprisingly capable for a free, web-based application. As Mr_Tantrum mentioned, I often will do some pre-work, creating shapes to extrude in Illustrator or Photoshop.

Screen Shot 2018-01-20 at 12.40.06 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2018-01-20 at 12.40.06 PM (resized).png

Other free CAD applications that I use are OpenSCAD and Blender.

I cut my teeth on Ray Dream Designer and StrataStudio Pro back in the 90s. The early, ground breaking game Myst was rendered in Strata on Macintosh Quadras. I also worked in both Poser and Bryce from v.1 forward.

#1018 2 years ago

A blast from the past:

Screen Shot 2021-10-03 at 3.18.38 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-10-03 at 3.18.38 PM (resized).png

I still have my Quadra 650 in the closet, but it is in need of a cap job for the logic board.

1 month later
#1359 2 years ago

Apple has a lot more open source projects than you might imagine.

https://opensource.apple.com/

1 month later
#1601 2 years ago

I get a 404 from your link.

Screen Shot 2022-01-13 at 7.04.18 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2022-01-13 at 7.04.18 PM (resized).png

3 months later
#2173 1 year ago

Prusa just announced a new enclosure. It’s pretty pricey, but looks like a premium assembly.

https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/

5 months later
#2762 1 year ago

One thing to note, though. If it has fine details or small extrusions in the 8" H model, it may not be entirely printable when scaled down to 4" H.

3 months later
#3646 1 year ago

I see the Bambu comes with a glue stick. Do you have to resort to such trickery to get bed adhesion? All I have had to do with my Prusa is keep the bed clean.

#3649 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

Like all surfaces it depends on what you use. The only thing I use anything on is the cool plate and I spray a light coat of Aqua Net. No glue stick. Most of the time I use the textured PEI and engineering plate, nothing is needed.

Thanks for the reassurance on that. I don’t mix materials on my plates, and have dedicated surfaces for each type used. I follow Prusa’s guidelines for prepping for each material and have never had adhesion issues, unlike my Monoprice.

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