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Resin has a annoying smell so I enclosed mine and vented it outside. My 2 prusa mk3s units and my makerbot are soon to get the same treatment.
129BCAAA-9750-447C-A0F9-F8E4567FB1D4 (resized).jpeg1A3D7A07-AF30-43D5-AB17-F9CA2A7378BC (resized).jpeg3ED09809-3CB8-4D1B-882E-E9EB48C91EC9 (resized).jpeg428B5F30-4051-4BD3-AD25-E1A9927A721C (resized).jpegQuoted from Rdoyle1978:Suddenly having some weird lifting issues on my Prusa. Any suggestions? I do not print using an enclosure (that may need to change)
I sanded the factory plate with 220 to scratch it up in a circular motion. Never had a single adhesion issue since, the slightly rough texture helps hold the filament.
Quoted from izzy:Has anybody printed the Bally pop bumper body CLIP STYLE C-970-5 that now seems to be unobtanium?
[quoted image]
These pop back in stock on a regular basis. It just when they do people buy large amounts of them. Last time i saw them I bought 12 for no reason.
Quoted from orangegsx:Does anyone know if there is a way to convert a .sldprt into an .stl without solidworks? Or maybe I’m way off and this isn’t really a thing.
do you have the sdlprt file? I can convert it for you.
Quoted from bigguybbr:I remember someone having a small wedge like spacer under the standup to angle it forward. I'll model my own, but thought I remembered someone having one
"Swinks" makes one.
My
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I am getting way ahead of myself here and what I am asking might be laughable for someone more experienced so please excuse the ignorance.
but what kind of accuracy can be achieved when printing right angles, for example, if you were to print a mortice and tenon type of junction?
I am currently re-drawing files in illustrator (I know these won't work in the printer) that will be laser cut so I can assemble a tron mini arcade cabinet, but then I was thinking... why could not I just 3d print this cabinet?
Please remember I have zero experience with 3d printing, so go easy on me but if you could at least tell me know as to whether this or a similar design could be 3d printed, that would be great.
As you can see in the drawing attached, the pieces are meant to be laser cut in 2.3mm thick material (delrin and clear acrylic) and then assembled as in the other pictured. All the pieces interlock to each other and everything is then secured (although not necessary to keep it together) by a screw on the side.
Can this be 3d printed?[quoted image][quoted image]
This would be easy to print in either separate pieces or a a complete unit. I will print one when i get home as a complete unit as a test.
Quoted from wolffcub:Printing it with one side removed is even easier as it will allow the other side to go on after the screen is positioned. I will do it that way for the test as it will take way less print time. The sides will actually be smooth so none of those holes will be present and show thru the sticker.
Edit Added:
I will do it on the textured bed so the outside are finished and anything that the sticker does not cover will be presentable.
Quoted from WJxxxx:A shameless ask for help.
My CAD/design skill are approximately zero currently, and after trying and failing to many times I need help.
I want/need an stl file of a leg attached to a machine with the bolts. (as in the picture). Preferably a Stern with standard bolts and washers being used.
It only needs to be from the top of the leg to about an inch below the bottom bolt, and include half an inch of the cabinet from the sides of the leg.
Happy to share the thinking and reasoning with whoever could take the time to help - it's a REALLY cool idea.
Thanks[quoted image]
You trying to make leg spacers? I already have a file for ones I made at home for my early Stern and Bally machines that i can upload later today. The ones I print are undersized so you can not see them the and the legs look to be floating away from the cabinet surfaces similar to the new Sterns.
IMG_2589 (resized).JPG
Quoted from mbwalker:I agree. And not even the decal part - just the cabinet itself. Any nudges will be transferred to the legs and if the print fails, I sure wouldn't want the leg accidently digging into the cabinet.
In the past, I purchased metal ones from PBL. But for the most part the Stern plastic ones are fine for home use.
Probably a little OCD on my part.
How would a solid printed part fail when clamped between the cabinet and leg? The point of a undersized leg spacer is to only make contact with the cabinet and leg like the new sterns do. Granted the new sterns cut away the sticker where the metal leg bracket is. When using the 3d printed ones just trace the printed bracket profile to the sticker and remove the sticker from that area and then you never have to worry about it doing the usual cracking / bubble issue. And with older painted cabinets you never have to deal with the leg profile digging into the wood. The large plastic leg protectors that stick out past the leg profile are junk as they do more damage.
Quoted from mbwalker:I'm assuming the print is not many layers thick, and those layers can possibly break apart if you have an aggressive player. The leg, essentially being a pivot point could then move. If printed w/PLA, I would imagine the PLA could compress and the end of the leg hitting the cabinet. I've even seen some of the Stern plastic versions be broken on used games.
Probably just me, but when it comes to potentially dinging the cabinet, I just error on the side of caution, that's all. I tend to think of 3D printing as more cosmetic or light duty parts (at least w/PLA).
It can be as thick as you want. I make mine 1/8" thick and print them solid. Its not going to compress or fall apart at all. You are not point loading it as the inside face of the leg is in almost full contact with the printed surface.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:awesome! would love to have that file please Sir
and what filament would you recommend? I can only print PETG at the moment due to no enclosure and the printer being in my officer 10 FT away from me.
I use PLA for almost everything.
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