Just found this awesome thread!! Man you all are making some awesome stuff!! Here is a wip TOTAN topper I am working on.

Has lights in the gems for the modes, and Rgb leds underneath controlled by an arduino that has a pretty cool flame effect

The base, sword backing, and logo I modeled and printed

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Thank you! It’s actually a single print with stops, allowing me to swap out the colors mid print. And yes this was done on a Prusa

Needed to plug the hole in my POTC playfield I made into wall art, made a disk

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Recreated the often broken playfield kickout disk aka "saucer." Also made the tabs thicker so hopefully stronger that the original part

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4863393

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Also tossed a Creature From the Black Lagoon light Baffle I remade for my restore on Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4863461

Disclaimer: I'm sure someone will criticize me for offering something for free that others would like us to pay for... but I believe in supporting others in the hobby and sharing the wealth.. not individual bottom lines.
Enjoy
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marioparty34 congrats that’s some serious machinery. Love to hear how it goes. I have been pretty happy with my Prusa’s but thinking of stepping up to a nicer printer

Not pinball related but thought ya’ll could appreciate this. Fully functional baby Mac in progress

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I am waiting on a ribbon cable should get here tomorrow here is the inside, yes mbwalker RP Zero!
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For Prusa folks, as was mentioned, never a need to use glue stick - ever for that matter .

Your success will come from not touching the build plate surface with your fingers as the oils result is adhesion problems. Additionally cleaning with 90% isopropyl alcohol and I have never needed adhesive aids. This is also per the Prusa help docs.

It works and by god it’s amazing, runnin iOS 7.5!

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Try naphtha, acetone is pretty harsh

I stand corrected. Whatever works!

Yes the minimac project is on instructables! It’s a great tutorial. And mine will most likely be more of a display… the screen is pretty tiny but growing up with one of these machines it sure brings back memories. I am probably going to take it apart, sand it paint it, and clear it
Cheers!!

Attention Star Wars Fans! Here is your chance to own a truly one-of-a-kind Star Wars Han Solo DL- 44 Blaster Replica. Highly detailed. This is a 3d printed model that has been hand sanded, painted, and weathered with excrutiating dcetail. This blaster is worthy of the most impressive mantles or display cases (maybe a topper?).

This looks like the real deal, must see in person to believe.

50% of the proceeds are going to Dolphin Project: https://www.dolphinproject.com/

ebay.com link: itm

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Needed a Christmas tree topper

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For those wanting to take the plunge (its a fun build promise) here is the UFO up on thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5157091

TOTAN bed of Nails mod is finally finished. Was fun teaching myself some 3D sculpting to create realistic wood.
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Viggin900 Ashram56 Thank you so much. I used Blender to model this. It’s an amazing software and free! It is a deep software, BUT there is a TON of wonderful tutorials on YouTube. I specifically watched a lot of tutorials on “sculpting.” Blender is not only a rad 3D modeling and animation software but has stellar sculpting capabilities that rival Z-Brush which is basically the industry standard. This guy has some great stuff on sculpting

Been wanting to make some barrel spotlights that can easily be added to standard size spotlights in a non-destructive fashion and be totally reversible. Making some good progress.

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Barells came out really nice! And they fit perfect. The back is a pressure fit so you can easily remove it if need be. These will be up on my Etsy store soon! https://www.etsy.com/shop/FactoryofFun?listing_id=1088825021

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you will love the MK3 I have had 2 of them and they are just amazing. Enders are awesome but the MK3 is a step above IMO… the software is hands down better and goes you more control. Most important they just work, kinda set and forget. Congrats!

Needed a clock at my workbench, cause I kinda lose track of time often. 3d printed and uses and arduino and an RTC for time and functions!

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For those that want to make one here is the amazing tutorial
I followed: https://www.instructables.com/Retro-7-Segment-Clock-the-Final-Ones/

Nice work Xdetroit I have been making graffiti style led marquees lately that are a lot of fun

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We seem to be taking on similar topper approaches

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Nice! Ya the Baywatch letters don’t all touch so I just offset the letter paths! Yours looks great. How are you planning to light it? Leds, addressable leds?

+1 on Bambú the more i read the more it seems they are onto to something magical. I’m about to cancel my pre-order spot for a prusa xl and get a bambu

almost ready to start printing.

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right, i am debating on attachment to the backbox, might just have countersunk holes in the feet to attach to the head.
The feet and legs attach to one another as the feet have a socket that the vertical legs snap into. Want this to be very easy to print and then assemble

Beautiful!!

Hey makers, anyone in here have a laser? I have been eyeballing an X1 pro for a while and I think it’s time! Want to make my own acrylic parts

Needed a sign to hang over my workbench. Making this all fit togeather took a bit of enginnering in Fusion. Going to use a ESP32 with WLED so I have tons o' color options

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TOTAN, base is all 3D printed, sword from amazon, jewels from amazon, and they are interactive with the modes.

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Congrats on the Bambu! I have been seriously considering the P1P

Do Work son! Love my new sign, wiring was a PIA but it was worth it to get the led order right. Note: it’s in the middle of an animation sequence, thus the colors

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Cactus canyon gulp, complete with bullet holes

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Thanks Xdetroit 3d printed and hand painted. Here is the model, I started with a barel model I had purchased, then added the holes, did some sculpting to add more detail in Blender, then designed the bracket in fusion 360. Here was a lower resolution prototype and a short paint process

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Just moved my deposit from a prusa xl to a Mk4, very excite

Congrats on the MK4, I have a deposit down as well and cannot wait! Biggest improvement.. where to start? no fist layer calibration, nextTruder head, speed is insane, and it has Wi-Fi… lastly slightly larger volume and a much improved display.

As long as your using pla it’s pretty safe stuff, though even I would probably not have it super close to food. Pla Actually is bio degradable. But once you get into other compounds he is right… the fumes can be not so good for you especially ABS.

Scarred stiff pinball gulp prototype in the works. Need to darken the gray a bit.

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This thing is amazing, my only regret is I waited this long to get one.

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Personally the parametric modelling. Having a history and being able to very easily make a change to a sketch or an extrusion and not have to do a ton of work to update a model is priceless. Additionally, the built-in rendering, and animation tools for doing exploded views.

I forced myself to learn it and am still learning, but I can finally say I am comfortable and it is fantastic. I previously used Shapr3d for CAD... and this is now my go-to.

Yes I saw that, its an amazing value. I mean Bambu has to be dominating the market. As someone who has owned many a printer (Prusa, Creality, Anycubic) the Bambu software, and machines are hands down some of the best you can get at that price range. I absolutely love my X1. Also... I have had to fix a few things on mine and Bambu's help docs are phenomenal!

I would suggest not using PLA. This piece needs to also be able to withstand heat, those areas can get warm and PLA is not very good at maintaining its structure under sustained temperature, and its really not all that strong when compared to something like ASA. ASA is UV and very heat resistant (even more so than ABS). ABS or ASA is what I would recommend. PLA is darn good, I just wonder if it will last. But, the worst that could happen with PLA is it just breaks or warps and you make another

Ahh bummer, when is the last time you service the lead screws and lubricated them? Also the linear rails… could be a culprit

I think he meant “stock settings”.

Elvira Coffin Gulp I have been making, my new X1C prints these things in 1/2 the time my Prusa did.

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Thank you, I bought the base model and modified it pretty heavily.

I have a really nice big shot model I will be offering soon. Totally remodeled from scratch, looks more… bodybuilder and less.. well… blobby than the original

I have an X1 as well. If I was going to do it again I also would probably get a P1P. I also recently got an A1 and that machine is amazing. I cannot believe the value for the price.

For those of you that have a Bambu, are you using:
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Bambu Studio
-- or --
Orca Slicer
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and why? Would love to know!

eyeamred2u Ohh I totally did not even think of the mouse ears feature, is that only in Orca?

Figured out a way to hang the AMS lite in my closet hahaha, works great!

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Working on a PinGulp that thematically could work for Medieval Madness, Labyrinth, Game of Thrones.

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First Protoype came out great! What ya'll think.

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Hey bud. I do a lot of printing with TPU, and its an AMAZING material. However, as you are commonly experiencing, it's very finicky and prone to stringing. To get it to print right, in general, requires a lot of custom settings ( no Z-hop, avoid crossing walls / perimeters, increase retractions (generally 1- 1.4), accurate nozzle temp (depends on brand), ensure your speed is accurate as most print slow at 30mm/s
A few questions:
- What brand are you using?
- What printer are you using?

Reason I am asking is there is some great profiles you can just download that have many of the settings pre-configured.

As mentioned one of the most important steps is dry the heck out of it, and that will solve most of your problems. I suggest grabbing a dyer off amazon, tons of options and very affordable I have a SUNLU and a 3Dgenius. Any new roll of TPU I always dry for at least 12 hours at 55c. Hope this helps

PM me I can share some profiles that I have had good success with, however, I print sloooo. But the results are super CLEAN!
Cheers
Brady

Working on a Custom Beverage holder for JAWS. Obvisoulsy inspired by the iconic barrels from the movie. I tried to replicate it as close as possible to the movie prop, whilst still making it sized to fit a soda can.

The idea is the top can screw off for when you are using it and want to put a beverage in, when its not in use, the top can be screwed on and you get the barrel in all its glory - minus the slot to get your beverage -

I will be making these, hand painting an weathering them. If you are interested PM me. Cheers!

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JAWS Gulp first prototype. The lid has a twist lock so it can be easily removed. The bottom has a magnet, so when you are using the cup holder the lid can be attached to the bottom, or a metal part of the game.

If I do end up making these I will most likely make a very limited number as they are very time consuming due to all the detail. Hope you like .

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If you are doing threads on a bambu .12mm-.15mm seems to be the sweet spot The thread tool works great, but you will find sometimes if you apply a thread to a part, and then apply the same thread to another as a cut (to make the male and female, they don't aways match up ( I don't know why this is). Another way is to create a custom thread using a coil, then use a boolean to cut the female, and finally offset face or press pull. These types of threads seem to print much better and you have more control over the dimensions and shape of the threads

If folks are interested I am totally willing to record a short vid to help.

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Side note: size does matter, larger objects tend to need less tolerance size than small objects. a 10mm bolt and screw might need 3mm whereas a 30mm bold and thread might only need .2.

Plasticity does look very promising, especially for folks transitioning from timeline/modelling based tools to CAD based tools. One big downside for me is no parametric history. But that is not the end all be all

For those that love I-Pads, shapr3D is SUPER amazing.

Ask and you shall recieve. I put together a short video on some basics when it comes to threads in Fusion 360 using the thread tool and coils. This is high-level, and definitely NOT the only way to make threads in Fusion. I hope it helps some folks

ASA would be another material you might consider that stuff holds up better in heat and UV resistance

I just downloaded the model, and on its side seems to be your best bet. There are overhangs almost not matter what orientation. This is one of those situations where the model - really - should be redesigned to be 3d printer friendly by adding chamfers to the 90-degree angles, that way no supports - or minimal supports - are needed

Just for fun I made a more printer friendly version of the drop target. HOWEVER, I have not test fit this. Feel free to try it out and let us know.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6564364/files

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Interstingly the CF is more brittle. But boy it prints nice