High Speed
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I’ve been wondering how dangerous it was to run my ender3 during the night.. I hate doing it but also don’t want to pause a print and leave it on all night waiting either... maybe there’s really no danger to that and I shouldnt worry? Or if you pause a print and kill the power does it still resume? It would be great to feel 100% safe with it and not feel a need to babysit, or at least be ‘around ‘ checking on it from time to time.
Quoted from DugFreez:Yes....I am talking about the idea also. I came up with THE IDEA. That is my claim. I also did the first design and carried out the first implementation of it being done IN A PINBALL MACHINE. That is my point.
Ok, great. Good. I don’t think anyone here really gives that much of a shit tbh though. I get being annoyed that people are doubting your claim and what not.. but this was 8 years ago and it’s not like you invented a new vaccine or discovered a parallel universe or something.. it’s a $30 pinball accoutrement. I have no reason to doubt you were the first to think of it, nor do I care enough to waste time trying to research it to prove or argue your claim. You’ve made your point 20x now. good job —you thought of it first and it makes my pinballs look oh so fancy (I do enjoy them) but please, let’s move on now.
Lotta posts here lately lol— thanks all for the safety tips on the ender. I have reservations about the metal box — how do I build it and does it keep enough ventilation going? The auto extinguisher is cool — does it leave a giant mess when it goes off? My printer is next to two PCs.. probably the auto shutoff or MB upgrade seem like good choices, I’ll have to research more. Was also concerned about filament roll binding, as I got a bad roll recently — just seems like there’s so many scenarios where something could go wrong.
The ender3 does resume on power drop out— I’ve had my circuit blow mid print. Came back on and did fine, noticeable pollute print ‘blip’ on the layer but nothing major. Haven’t tried a pause and shutoff/on yet though
That PAL nut remover is a great idea! Coulda used that last weekend, just switched to led buttons on a couple games.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:PETG is certainly the best choice for this type of regular use thing.
Frustrating though, haven’t been able to get a clean print with it personally
Quoted from mbwalker:Interesting you print the entire thing in clear then paint the desired sections. That's s good idea - I would have thought it was two different filaments.
Thanks for sharing.
I had thought the same, was thinking the letters were done separate in clear and glued in. Only issue with painting I imagine (having painted on a clear mod before) is that multiple coats of paint would be needed. Probably no big deal for a mod like this with not too many colors / details but tedious fir mods with a bunch of colors going on and/or with a lot of details.
Quoted from Darscot:I have often wondered why they don't program this into games. Like if you hold the button for 5 seconds it will stay in hold when you let go until you push it again. The time could be adjustable. Great solution though.
Well TZ has it. But yeah, seems it would be easy to put in other games.
Quoted from PinballCharlie:I think some people must be way more sensitive to ABS fumes than others. I print many different brands of ABS often in an unventilated room and can barely smell it.
Just because you can hardly smell it doesn’t really have any correlation to potential harmful health effects.. just saying.
Quoted from pb456:Has anyone made an STL for this...
http://www.pbresource.com/plastic/gtb-30880.jpg
From GTB Nightmare on Elm Street - the door to the furnace that raises and lowers.
If someone's game I can make measurements.
What’s the backside look like?
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:Ah yes, Mr. Tantrum rocks. I did see this though it would be a bit dangerous for repair use. More of an art piece. I want something that will really secure them so I don’t send em flying.
So a square with a 1/2 sphere cut out basically? Maybe a wider base? Easy enough to model. I can do it this weekend if no one chimes in before that
Quoted from Pauz21:No it’s that pressed fibre. Bake light or whatever it’s called.
Sounds like you have a potential solution from pinball adventures but I do believe I have this mech loose in a box and can look at modeling this part at least for anyone in the future to use to print or have it lasered
Got suckered into buying 10 rolls of PLA on that website that was posted the other day.. so damn cheap. However I don't really need that much -- if anyone in the Seattle area wants a clear, white, or black roll or 1ea of all 3 shoot me a PM and we can meet up or you can swing by to pick them up at cost (8.99ea?).
Quoted from indypinhead:Which website was that? I think I might have just ordered the same crap.
Ha! The GST3D one. Sounds like it’s decent stuff though, just gotta order the 10 to get the great price.
Quoted from toyotaboy:GST3D.. you'd be surprised, you'll eventually use it (and yes it's very dam cheap for PLA+)
— I’ll use it eventually for sure- but how long do rolls last sealed up with those moisture absorbing packets .. kinda curious
Quoted from Sleal16:Man, those little things.... I just ran into a new one for me last night. Was printing a little bracket that was going to be a 2 hour print. I left and came back close to it being done and saw that it kinda missed a few layers in between. There was a glob somewhere in the middle where it helped build the remaining layers but thought it was maybe a one-off extruding glitch since it was working past those layers as well. Printed again and from a distance would hear something like a snap...or tension that was stuck then released. Run to the printer and the exact same layer height with the same glob started happening. So it feels the z-axis in that spot is having an issue? everything moves freely when its off but having two identical issues occur back to back has me now trying to inspect every little thing that could go wrong. Fun? yeah but time consuming
The snap back noise is too much pressure build up in the chamber, so the stepper/hold on filament slips. I noticed issues like this when ironing was on, after ironing a low layer it would clog the chamber for a while skipping several layers. If not ironing, you may need an adjustment of travel or print speed
Quoted from Viggin900:Question: I have big problems of my prints adhering to the mat of my ender 3. If I create a base in slicer it will be just fine. Is there another way of printing so it sticks without a wasteful base? Even if its a square object? What are skirt etc for and why? Raft is great but seems wasteful but not sure what the other options do or help?
I’d try adjusting the mat slightly closer so the first layer ‘smooshes’ against it more (assuming your not using a totally rigid base like glass, but the magnetic or similar type mats). I started printing with skirts a while back and default to them almost always now. It gives you a flat layer around the print for better adhesion and can help with lifting issues at the corner of prints. It’s easy to clean off after the print finishes.
Quoted from orangegsx:Printed some posts for my addams scratch build. Wanted a color that isn’t available. Turned out pretty good.
[quoted image]
Resin printed - yeah? Looks great!
And Aurich that hammer is killer!
Quoted from marioparty34:What is everyone's longest continuous print
time? My son is designing something for school and we started a 58 hour print a few hours ago. I have never attempted something that long. A little stressed that 75% of the way through it fails.
I thought about printing it in pieces, but due to the nature of what it needs to do, we would rather have one solid piece. Fingers crossed!
Is this a functional thing then or needs to look nice aesthetically? For functional things- I love using heat set nuts and small bolts to marry pieces together. Plenty strong.
Wow that X1 looks pretty sweet! I've been happy with my ender but that is tempting.. I'm curious about ventilation tho - does the charcoal filter take care of that completely or do you still need to be able to vent to outside a room? My printer lives in my home office... Also curious how much they are going to charge for support filament and/or their own filament (not that you have to use it.. but the support filament would be nice to use)
Quoted from mark532011:20% with 4-thick walls. I am using Polymaker PLA PRO Filament 1.75mm, which according to them offers superior strength over "normal" PLA....lol
Wow I’m shocked that’s holding up at 20%. I think what would concern me is that if it did fail at some point, esp with only 20% IF, it would fail quick and your machine would suddenly lose that height on a leg, potentially making it very unstable (enough to tip? Or bash into an adjacent games head).
Hey ya'll, got a question about a print I am working on that has a bevel on the base. I have to print it in this orientation due to other parts of the print that are on top (not shown in picture). This seemed like it would print fine.. and generally it works but I am getting a lot of weird imperfections in the print like places where it's not smooth but little 'pokies' and 'divots' (sorry.. that's the best descriptors I can come up with). Printed the other way, it's all fine.. so it's clearly something with printing it in this orientation with the support material.
Any thoughts on how to fix this? Temp settings or is there a way the supports are printed? I've always relied on the stock settings in Cura for that and had no issues till now.. I will mention that I am printing this is silver 'silk' PLA.. which I noticed slightly extenuates the texture imperfections vs 'normal' PLA.. dunno if anyone has adjustments they recommend for silk PLA?
Quoted from toyotaboy:I buy from amazon when I need a specific color, or didn't keep enough stock of white/grey/black. If you want cheap good PLA+ filament, I highly recommend IIDMAX:
https://iiidmax.com
Cheaper if you order a 10pack ($12/spool), sometimes they run sales where it's only $10/spool.
IF you're ordering from amazon, brands I highly reccommend:
Polymaker, Inland, hatchbox, 3D solutech, overture (most recommended). Not oonly does overture print good, it's a very cleanly wrapped spool.
Extreme pla and nano diamond is intriguing.. fancy marketing names? Or actually stronger than +?
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