(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

2 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by PoMC
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    #171 11 months ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    If you don't mind paying the premium Prusa is definitely the way to go. Just shit that works, by people who care and never stop trying to make it work better.

    We run three ender3s nearly nonstop and only run PLA because we don’t have access to good ventilation to run other material. These ender3s, which we’ve upgraded some parts, have pretty much been flawless. We have replaced a hot end on one, and get an occasional clog, like one every few months, but otherwise, they work well. We do have to re-level the bed every now and then, which can be a pain, but I’d say it’s pretty rare. No adhesion issues, we use acetone to clean the bed. What’s the main benefit(s) of the Prusa, which costs 4x more? Is it that they are more versatile and handle a broader set of material better?

    #173 11 months ago
    Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

    Automatic bed levelling
    Z-height control to the ten-thousandths of a mm
    Even after upgrading springs, I had to re-level my Ender after -every single- print. Never have to level again ever
    Keeps track of settings for individual filament material when you change
    Automatic filament loading, including when the sensor detects filament has run out. The print immediately stops and records its last position until you refill it
    Pretty sure the slicer is better than CURA, I never have runaway code errors or have to stop a print halfway through to re-slice and rotate the object on the bed
    Dual z-axis threaded rods so no “sag”, no wearing down rubber wheels
    Spring steel magnetic print surface. This is a game changer. You can get multiple for various filament materials, and you can take the whole thing off and flex it to pop all the parts off. Even ABS, even PETG. And you -don’t have to re-level afterwards!
    And the biggest one for me: no constant fiddling snd tinkering with the printer just to get it to do it’s job
    Lots of people have great experiences with the Ender. I was not one of them. I upgraded the fans, extruder, firmware, countless other parts, and was still spending hours messing with the printer. That couple hundred bucks hurt at first, but my time is way more valuable. The Ender was the best sales job for the Prusa ever. As someone else stated earlier, now I just hit print and come back in a few hours and it’s done.

    Thanks, those are some nice benefits. If we start having issues, I’ll be looking toward a Prusa.

    4 months later
    #624 7 months ago
    Quoted from northvibe:

    Alright, I finally got the fans and such for the thingiverse flipper coil coolers. They do not fit LOTR. I would think these flippers are on most stern whitestars? If they were modified for the screw mount holes and height they would fit. Just a heads up.

    what do you mean they don't fit? can you show a pic? You really only need to have one screw holding the mount in. Take one screw off the base of the flipper mount and attach the printed mount to it. I did have to cut off one of the outer screw holes on the mount, but that was no big deal.

    1 week later
    #660 7 months ago
    Quoted from Viggin900:

    Call me crazy but wouldn't these be a piece of cake to 3d print for Metallica? I've thought about creating them in my program with a ring at the bottom so they can be screwed in under the lane screw.
    [quoted image]

    We are actually working on a 3D cross mod that lights up, interactive with the lane lights. Might have something to show over the weekend.

    1 month later
    #816 5 months ago

    We use this and clean the bed with acetone after every print. Rarely have adhesion problems, only when bed isn’t level.

    amazon.com link »

    #847 5 months ago
    Quoted from Ashram56:

    Has anyone designed a holder for flipper coil fans, for games like LOTR for ex?
    Regards

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4715685

    2 months later
    #937 3 months ago
    Quoted from Lopa:

    I’m looking to pick up a 3d printer and am looking for suggestions in and around the $1000 range.
    Thanks in advance

    We run the ender-3, have four of them running almost non stop. Occasional clog and releveling, but these have been workhorses. We’ve upgraded things like the fans and bed overlay, which are cheap, and a few other parts, highly recommend as a first printer. Tons of you tube videos to help out too. I think we’ve paid as low as $164 and as high as a little over $200 for them. Looks like it’s currently about $175.

    2 months later
    #1078 42 days ago

    Anyone have a file for a clear nut for stern flipper buttons? I see one on thingiverse for a gottlieb, but not sure it will work. The metal one blocks too much light for lighted flipper buttons.

    #1082 42 days ago

    Thx, mr. tantrum helped me out.

    Quoted from latenite04:

    I have one here that I've used with stern buttons from pinball life: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3715237/files. All the flipper buttons use the same nut.

    3 weeks later
    #1247 15 days ago
    Quoted from parsonsaj:

    Has anyone created a shroud for the camera on JJP games when the full backglass LED strips are installed? I just did this on my GnR and while the camera works fine with all the light bleed, it is annoying to actually be able to SEE the camera while playing. Seems like a perfect application for a 3D printed part that would go around the camera cutout in the backglass to block the light from the LED strips across the bottom of the monitor

    This may be helpful. get a piece of cardboard, bend it into a U shape and place it over the camera. You can paint the cardboard black so you don’t see it. The picture here is a rough example and hardly elegant, but it will work.. You could tape this to the underside of the monitor to hold it in place.

    187326D0-23CD-462C-BABF-8E0D0090C08F (resized).jpeg

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