I just posted my speaker adapters on Thingiverse. These are for installing 5.25 inch speakers into the newer Stern Pro and Premium games to upgrade to the LE speakers (Kenwood). These are still available on my Pinside store for $25 a pair, but you are welcome to print them yourselves and save me the bother! The picture below is actually the older version. The stl posted is updated to fit a larger variety of SPIKE 1, SPIKE 2 and SAM games...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5182150/apps

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1312-space-coast-pinball/05610-spike-2-diy-525-speaker-adapters-pro-premium-w-hardware-
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The backbox speakers in the Pro and Premium are pure junk. The Kenwoods in the LE are much nicer. The callouts are much more clear and the sound is much fuller with the 5.25 two-way speakers. That is the only difference in the LE though. The Pro/Premium/LE all come with the same junky cabinet speaker. Changing that speaker doesn't help at all compared to installing an external subwoofer.

So in my consideration the best bang for the buck in a pro or premium is the backbox speakers. Next would be the external subwoofer. There are also Pinball Pro and Pinball Life/Flipper Fidelity speaker sets if you want to spend a little more. For high end there is Pinwoofer which is the top shelf and in both cost and sound quality.

I've never tried the Pyle speakers.

The purpose of the adapters allow you to put the bigger speakers on the factory Pro and Premium plates which have the smaller speaker opening and mounts. The LE comes with the plates with the bigger opening for the bigger speakers and also have the plastic colored beauty ring around. To really get the LE look in a pro or premium, you can SKIP THE ADAPTERS and simply change out the plates for $50 for a pair and then add colored rings of your choice too. Once again it really depends on the level that you are shooting for. Using the adapters is basic entry level DIY. If you want to go big, swapping out the plates and a full set of speakers along with a set of type 13 Speaker Light Kit is ultimate setup! If you keep the original plates and use adapters, you are limited to the type 11 or 12 light kits. I have had all of the different setups and the type 13 kit is really the best looking! Doug at speakerlightkits.com is really great and helpful with questions on what to buy for your particular machine and most or all of the answers can be found on their website without even having to ask...

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-spike-2-speaker-plate-for-525-drivers.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-red-plastic-speaker-trim.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-fidelity-stern-spike-2-le-conversion-10-woofer-2017-present-lcd.html

or

https://www.speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html

https://www.speakerlightkits.com/Type-13.html

https://www.speakerlightkits.com/SPIKE-2-Standard-or-Deluxe.html

I picked up an Ender 5 Pro on Black Friday and finishing up getting it set up and dialed in. I printed an enclosure for the control panel which holds the Raspberry Pi for Octoprint along with a quiet fan. Also, printed a custom holder for a Logitech webcam to use with Octopi. This thing prints really nice with minimal stringing once you get the settings correct and the Bowden tube firmly in place. It's also much quieter than my previous Anycubic printer. I found an Ultrabase glass hot bed in the correct size that works much better for me than the Creatility magnetic or glass beds.

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It's a respin of another enclosure. I liked this one because it has a fan cutout and also a better cutout for the ribbon cable to enter. I printed with no support and it came out fine. I also spent the extra few bucks to get a super quiet fan.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5154632

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Other mods that I basically consider "must have" for the Ender 5 Pro:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3479330

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3443100

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3937920

Anything to do with coin door skin looks good with "Hammered" black paint to add some texture and shine. Rustoleum makes it in a spray can readily available. Do a few coats within an hour (follow instructions). Recoating times seem to be really important to follow when printing PLA. I've had some disasters when I waited to long!

This model for the coin door adapter is the one to use. It's raised in the middle to sit flush with the outside of the coin door like the inserts are supposed to be. It will look a lot nicer. I printed one and it came out nice. Hopefully the designer will put it on Thingiverse; otherwise it is very simple to add the raised section to other models...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-insider-connected/page/43#post-6677515

To me the best way to do the raised flush face AND have mounting built onto the back would be to print in two pieces. That way there would be no support needed when printing. It is super easy to design as one piece and then split it in two with small alignment pegs and holes built into the two pieces. Just a few drops of good glue and snap the two pieces together and it would be good to go.

That is why you have small pegs on one side and corresponding holes on the other. It would snap together perfectly aligned every time.

If you need a Light Divider for Gottlieb EM pinball machines C-16484, I uploaded my custom model to Thingiverse. I suggest printing in PETG for heat resistance. This is the same stl as the item sold on my Pinside store.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5213719
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I don't really get the need for auto leveling... I go literally hundreds of print hours without needing to re calibrate unless I've moved the machine or changed out the nozzle. Even then, it takes maybe 30 seconds to get it just right. The key is having a flat glass bed I suppose. I bought the Ultrabase for Ender 5 Pro off of eBay. Not only is it flat as can be, Ultrabase has a great textured surface on it that makes models stick really well. It's much better than the Creatility glass replacement base.

I just added another Gottlieb EM part to Thingiverse. These EM score reel card guides always seem to be disintegrating in my games, so I started making these a while back to help restore a Ship Mates and a Dodge City for my collection. The old guides can be removed pretty easily by breaking what is left of them away and cutting the rivet with some sturdy cutters. The new guides can be installed with rivets, #2 hardware, or even thin mounting tape such as 3M "467MP". The holes will all line up with the original mounting holes including the hole for the pin that retains the score reel. These fit in 60's Gottlieb games with the "Rat Trap" score reels. It is possible these can fit on other games.

It took a while for me to get all the holes in the model to line up with the originals. This is the same STL file as the part sold on my pinside store. Feel free to print for yourself or your friends!

Edit: Notice the light beige color Geeetech PLA looks a lot like old yellowed plastic. Sometimes it is nice to match some older parts and this is a great trick!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5231252
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Ok, another one of my designs to Thingiverse. This is a switch cover just like those in older Gottlieb EM and SS games. I found versions of this online before, but I didn't like the way they printed because it needed a ton of support. I made my own design with it split in two pieces to print with with a very little bit of support; just the entry way for the wires and none anywhere else. Also, three different switch plates because I have come across three different size and shapes of switches. There is also a taller cover base that will fit the larger 1/2" mount toggle switches used in Williams and other games. Uses the same top as the shorter base.

Suggest E6000 clear glue to glue the top to the base with a small bead around the inside. This is great glue for using on 3D models and I highly recommend it.

Feel free to print all you need for yourself and friends.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5233929

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Seems like a lot of activity in the Insider Connected 3D printing mods! I now have three games with IC and in the process of moving the readers to the coin doors. I didn't like the current available models because they didn't have the raised section to make the insert flush with the front of the coin door the way it is supposed to be or they were missing the mount for the reader on the back. I designed my own panel based on the existing blank and put a hole in it. On the back added a raised mounting brim for the reader to screw into. In order to print with no support material, there is a second model for the raised section. The two models snap together using pegs and holes added to make perfect alignment. A little bit of E6000 glue between the pieces and you would never know it was printed separate. The mounting brim is deep enough to secure a piece of clear lexan or acrylic on the backside with another tiny bit of E6000. This will protect the IC reader from damage to its own clear lens.

I'll put this on Thingiverse soon as I verify it all fits properly and works on all three of my games.

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I meant to post this to thingiverse a while back and never had a chance. Now that I've tested it on a couple of machines, its ready to go. This is an Insider Connected mounting plate for the coin door with the center raised to be flush with the door face like it should be. In order to print without any support material, the model is divided to two pieces. Print in two pieces and glue together. It should line up perfectly using the pegs and holes in the two pieces. Cut and install a thin piece of plexi from the rear with a tiny drop of glue to protect the IC face from getting scratched up. Mount reader to plate with #4 sheet metal screw 1/2" length. (clear plexi shown with protective cover still on so you can see it!)

To make the cabling easier, mount the reader upside down so the cable connects to the top. It will still work just fine! Works fine without paint. The Stern doors are REALLY black compared to the old Bally Williams, so the hammered black paint looks a little too light...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5332496
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Wow! I gotta ask how long that took to print all the pieces and how many spools of filament it took!??

The new anycubic printer looks nice. I would like to see how the direct drive does for stringing on certain parts that I have trouble with on my Ender 5 pro.

https://www.anycubic.com/products/kobra

I'm not sure there would be room between the backboard and the glass on a Gottlieb to put the Williams type baffles in. If you are placing the whole board then you could use a base board and baffles rather than having the second routed board on top like the OEM Gottlieb has. I used to sell these. I put the design on Thingiverse and gave the CAD model to Marcos to start making eventually. I believe Pinball Life sells something similar. Not sure anyone sells round ones but small squares might work in place. The thingiverse models can be resized pretty easily.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5225801