I really feel there are some fantastic 3d printed mods out there.
They cost us nothing to make but time.
I am willing to share my STLs or help make them with anyone thats willing to do the same .
Lets post here.
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I really feel there are some fantastic 3d printed mods out there.
They cost us nothing to make but time.
I am willing to share my STLs or help make them with anyone thats willing to do the same .
Lets post here.
Quoted from marioparty34:Great thread idea. What do you have now?
As of this moment . Some really nice floor levelers and a vase for my wife.
Pinball stuff...... some game specific brackets and a bench for FG.
I did design a new mount for Stern's Cap/ Tip issue . When they seen it they said it was fantastic but they would have to verify with the heat displacement,
Quoted from DugFreez:...and still not a single example of a PINBALL machine with lights in the speakers before my light kits were available. I can't wait to see what unrelated product you are going to talk about next.
....as for "my attitude"....that I come on here with towards you. Please go back and read my original post. I don't really see any attitude there. Just me being honest and explaining my stance and opinions on a question that YOU posed.
If people have the ability then let them have fun and make them. Your more worried about cornering the market rather than what this threads about .... sharing and having fun 3D printing. Seems very selfish in a free market.
Quoted from toyotaboy:There are 3 options if you don't want to upgrade your mainboard:
1. Put your printer in an enclosed metal box. If it catches fire, it won't have anywhere to spread.
2. Buy an extinguisher ball and hang it above the printer. If a fire starts, it will auto extinguish (restaurants use these)
amazon.com link »
3. Build a system that shuts itself off
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2148191
Or all of the above
C1DD0CD1-094C-4671-A50C-B35F07C98138 (resized).jpegQuoted from DugFreez:I'm ready to move on, but they just - won't - let me. How about....no more lame ass examples (that are not in a pinball machine) and if anyone does find an example, picture, post of lights being in a pinball speaker before October 2012...I will shit in my hat and fold it. Sound like a plan?
Alright for god sakes..... you were the first. MOVE ON. Look around you, there is a first for everything. You sold the lions share and its now time to come up with another idea.
LEDS
Glare glass
Color dmd
ect, ect
Are all in the same boat. 3D printing is not going away its the wave of the future. Like all other small company's , either grow with the times or cease to exist.
Quoted from PinMonk:And for resin printers/washers, ventilation is required. The chemical smells must be ventilated or they will damage you over time.
I'd recommend a prusa mini for a starter instead of a ender3. Yes, it's literally double the price ($380 vs $190), but the number of improvements over the ender3 are substantial and a better starting point for the 3d printing experience.
Got my Ender 3 on Christmas special last year for 145 shipped/
My Christmas gift to the 3D printer community .
This was a lot of work and I sold enough .... 100 bucks each painted.. Please don't be a dick and try to sell.
Enjoy guys and happy printing , Allen
Quoted from Shredso:Awesome! Do you have any pics of it painted and/or installed?
Quoted from cpr9999:Can you post a picture of how the back is lit up?
Do you mean the arch . ....If so its a strip led that I kink in threee segments.. Wires run down the inside of the Right post and out the back of the foot.
992316CB-22FC-41CC-900B-CF2EDCE9DA88 (resized).jpeg63BA59A7-E687-4DD1-8582-66B3EAABFFF1 (resized).jpeg4FB3F650-04CC-4DAB-9001-6E0C636E221C (resized).jpeg94A5086A-A05B-46F5-A14B-A21A86BB8FEA (resized).jpeg9DB078A4-38F1-4C49-9A2C-35B3D3D54096 (resized).jpegQuoted from Anony:Wow those look great, they also look like a torture test for an FDM printer! They came out very clean though, what printer do you use?
I have an Ender 2/3 and 3 V2.
Been 3D printing and designing for about 5 tears now . I ONLY have cheap ENDER 3s with my newest being a Ender3 V2.
That being said Ill put my prints up against any here for quality and consistence
This just show that you dont have to spend $$$$ to enjoy the hobby and do great work.
Its about leaning how a printer works , the set up and the best slicer setting for how you have the printer hardware PERIOD.
Start with a printer like this , learn it, add auto leveling and fan mods in the future.. HAVE FUN !!!
I’ll put my Enders up against any prints on this forum for quality. They run for weeks straight and they are dialed in perfect.
I use Prusa slice on all of them.
6C872A3E-8497-407E-8833-975D01B64B40 (resized).jpegDB4852F9-C097-4973-BC0D-5DDD28359D03 (resized).jpegDBD39CEA-27A9-4185-8B08-C3FD52F899AB (resized).jpegHate to say..... but what made you think that it was just hit print and it magically happens
Its not about the machine.....its about leaning how to take an thought, make it an object, put in in a usable form that a slicer can understand " STL", slice it with the proper settings and install oy on to a micro SD card.
After that you if your printers set up perfectly it will make a nice print.
I have been doing this for about 5 years and only consider myself an slightly above average printer/ designer.
You will have to do your homework and get through the learning curve otherwise your printers just a brick.. Youtube will fully explain how the basics work and help will come from forums like this.
Start out with 1.75 PLA filament, .04 nozzle, 60C bed and 210C nozzle temperature
YouTube for most of your information
Thingiverse for already made STLs
Tinkercad for learning design and 360 Fusion for once you get good
Prusa slice or Cura for your slicer program.
Its not difficult but you must be willing to take the time and learn.
Quoted from KornFreak28:I’ve had this creality ender 3 S-1 for a almost a week now. Don’t know what to do! The instructions on this unit are so bad!
It’s assembled and ready to go but not sure what to do as far as heating the bed, nozzle and what filament to get.
Is there any video you guys recommend that would be helpful? Thanks!
Hate to say..... but what made you think that it was just hit print and it magically happens
Its not about the machine.....its about leaning how to take an thought, make it an object, put in in a usable form that a slicer can understand " STL", slice it with the proper settings and install oy on to a micro SD card.
After that you if your printers set up perfectly it will make a nice print.
I have been doing this for about 5 years and only consider myself an slightly above average printer/ designer.
You will have to do your homework and get through the learning curve otherwise your printers just a brick.. Youtube will fully explain how the basics work and help will come from forums like this.
Start out with 1.75 PLA filament, .04 nozzle, 60C bed and 210C nozzle temperature
YouTube for most of your information
Thingiverse for already made STLs
Tinkercad for learning design and 360 Fusion for once you get good
Prusa slice or Cura for your slicer program.
Its not difficult but you must be willing to take the time and learn.
After years of using Ender 3s " and I still love them" I am going to give the Prusa MK3S+ a try.
I was going to upgrade to a Sprite extruder and a new motherboard but said what the heck.
It's 799 with no back order right now for the kit..... plus the Black Friday deal of free shipping, free roll of orange PETG, 10 coupon , and extra textured sheet. Saves about 160 bucks from the order.
I really think it will be a solid machine with the direct drive and their slicer for materials such as Silk, TPU, polycarbonate, and carbon fiber.
IMG_9933 (resized).jpgQuoted from Soulrider911:you will love the MK3 I have had 2 of them and they are just amazing. Enders are awesome but the MK3 is a step above IMO… the software is hands down better and goes you more control. Most important they just work, kinda set and forget. Congrats!
I really looking forward to printing the exotic like carbon and TPU with the direct drive
Has anyone purchased the mulitcolor attachment for the Prusa MK3+
299 dollars. Is it easy to use and get used to , and is it reliable
Quoted from AUKraut:MMU2 is a dumpster fire across Prusa groups. Lots of people can't get it to work partially, if at all.
That’s good to know. Hate to ruin a machine I just bought to be a workhorse in my fleet
Thank you !!!
Does anyone have great setting for a stock Prusia MK3+ on printing silk. Everything I have tried so far on my enders prints great for about 30 minutes than clogs up . Hoping direct drive will solve this.
Quoted from JakePG:Thinking of buying a Prusa mini as my first printer. I've seen a lot of people had problems with the Enders, so that's why I'm leaning toward the Prusa. Is it recommended to learn a design software like Onshape or fusion360 before buying a printer?
IMO …… an Ender 3 is much better than a mini at less cost.
From what I hear the mini is very problematic
Quoted from Aurich:Everything but the parts I just posted above posted is laser cut. I won't drag this thread off topic too much, but I will say a laser cutter really compliments a 3D printer. You get subtractive on one end, and additive on the other, and that gives you a lot of power. I have a CNC too, but tbh I've barely used it since my laser and 3D printer solve so many problems already.
For more detailed shots of the Tron plastics I just posted a ton of process and closeup pics to my thread, you can check them there to not derail this one.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-interactive-topper-pre-orders-aurich-mod/page/2#post-7289230
Aurich…. What would you recommend in a reasonable priced laser cutter. Would you just do the. K40 thing and upgrade or sone 4x the $$$$
I was looking at the same one Aurich
Will the 40w with an air assist cut clear acrylic cleanly ….. say 3/16 ?
On a 3D printing note…… my Prusa MK3S+ kit has arrived from overseas
Can’t wait till Christmas to start putting it together. I already made the space in my encloser available for it when it’s done.
056522A3-D800-43DF-A526-0E2D50306041 (resized).jpeg3D76A156-33E1-430A-8BBC-58950FC0CEC8 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I've built two MK3S printer kits. The first one took me 8 hours and the second 6 hours since I was much more familiar with the printer. Both times I started in the morning and worked straight through. Take your time, follow the online instructions in detail, and you'll do great.
I’m one of those goofy perfectionist people…… it will probably take me a weekend
Are there any upgrades you recommend right off the bat. I was looking at the metal z rod bearing and liniar rod top bracket
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:The MK3S+ is rock solid and as far as my experience goes there is no mod that will make it print better - save your money. If you want to do something for aesthetics or practical use improvement then by all means do so.[quoted image]
I was thinking of these
https://www.amazon.com/Gimax-printer-upgrade-aluminum-bottom/dp/B07QFKQXBZ
Also they had the kit for 799 plus free shipping. And they included a free roll of Petg and an extra magnetic build plate. There was no wait on the kit
Was a Black Friday deal
Do you guys use filament dryers.... I was thinking of getting one and many reviews rate the EIBOs Cyclopes excellent..
Thoughts anyone
Ok guys ,
Going to start building my MK3+ but before I start I have one question
Does anyone recommend blue lock tight on the frame.
No worries about the build just real picky and want long lasting great results
Any opinions greatly appreciated
Quoted from dudah:I also love my filament dryer and consider it essential. You'd be suprised how wet a "new" roll of budget filament can be. When you make so many tweaks on the machine to ensure you get the best quality prints, it's foolish not to ensure your material isn't also ideal.
Hard requirement for TPU and PETG.
I bought the Eibo’s dryer. It has an internal fan , vent and will heat to 65c according to all tests.
Was rated very good
Quoted from king_pin:Thingiverse sucks. Posted to Thangs.com.
https://thangs.com/designer/king_pin/3d-model/mechagodzilla_left_3d_sculpt.stl-683478
https://thangs.com/designer/king_pin/3d-model/mechagodzilla_right_3d_sculpt.stl-683471
Please post prints if any of you get these printed and or painted! Hope it works out for you.
Got them.... thank you very much. I will post so you can see them when finished.
Quoted from Anony:Do you guys have a good sense of how easy it will be to do maintenance on the bambu printers yet? Do they use a lot of proprietary parts or are there off the shelf parts too?
That’s what I’m wondering ….. the candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long.
I’m waiting to see how serviceable and how long term reliability is
Their software is proprietary so if the company folds so does support.
Wanna pull the trigger but I think I’ll wait a year or two to see how things unfold
Soooo tempted to pick up this CR10 5S near me on FB..... but I thought about where the hell am I going to permanently put this thing.
Print surface is 500x500x500 but needs about 36 x 48 inch space because of bed travel. I can get it for only 100 bucks but just dont know where to put it or what to print that big.
Quoted from Viggin900:I print these myself and have made 20 of them. ABS is fine and strong enough.
Got any pics installed ? Would like to see how it looks
Ok guys.... was thinking of upgrading. I have 2 ender 3s that run constantly, and Prusa MK3 plus.
Would like to get a Bambu.... but is it worth getting the X1 carbon or just the P1S w/ams
Ok guys ... haven't been keeping up with the latest printers but id like to purchase a new one.
Have always run Prusa and Creality but would like to buy a Bambu this time for the speed and AMS.
So my question is .... The P1S w/ Ams or the X1 carbon with Ams. 500 dollar difference but is it worth the upgrade . I do like the aluminum enclosure over the plastic. I know the spec differences but I want owner thoughts . THX
So how bad are the AMS units... Thats the whole reason I really want to upgrade. The Microcenter near me has the X1 carbon combo so I can pick it up.
If it's unreliable I might as well just go with the P1s or K1 for speed . They are also running a special for 5% off with there credit card.
Quoted from jrcmlc:For my use the interface on the printers themselves matters very little to me and the enclosure being metal or plastic matters even less. The ams are really great 90+% of the time. Big fan of my p1s setups.
I decided to get the P1S... For 500 dollars difference with the AMS it seems like the best choice for me. 950 total at Micro Center using there card. They will be in next week as they were out
Quoted from Xdetroit:Did you go in and talk with them? How do you know it will be in next week? Mine shows sold out with no in stock date
They said they get shipments on Wend and Friday. They have gotten every week like clockwork. See what happens as the salesmen gave me his number to call. Could have picked up the Carbon today but decided to wait
Quoted from jrcmlc:Yes a giant piece of shit print would be different. Lol
What filament, did you level bed, etc?
The test PlA spools that came with it and yes I did what the setup told me to .
This is way different than what im used to with my Prusa's and Creality printers.
Quoted from Xdetroit:I think you used the support filament. Try the orange
I feel foolish as I never looked. You are correct man .
I think for me this printer is going to have a slight leaning curve but with standard OVERTURE Pla it printed perfect on the first run. I did recalibrate it again after reading this
Here’s a brand new P1S in Va. FB. Not mine but wish it was closer. Probably could get for 650
https://www.facebook.com/share/TBBBtoHPiNS1BqXG/?mibextid=79PoIi
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