Quoted from yfz450:

I know Popeye is hated by most here, but I like the game play. I designed and printed the lamp cover for the upper playfield. Playing around with integrating the sticker into the print. I'll have a few of these with me at Pinfest along with lamp baffles and Bally pop bumper bases.
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Quoted from AMSNL:

Hammerhead1550
Both the prusa mini and and the 3s are perfect machines for what you need. A enclosed printer is most of the time better as it has less temperature swings, But is a bit bigger .
I have about 5 printers in 1 room and to be honest the smell is almost none . Also most enclosed printers have a filter to get all the particles out the air. My suggestion is . Start off with let’s say a prusa mini/ender and try the printing. The reason is I say get a prusa/ ender is those do all you need almost right out of the box. If you get a unknow brand or cheap thingy. The adjustment part and bad prints can really get to you to bail on this verry quick.

Quoted from jalpert:

I do know one person who won't own a 3d printer because they think PLA is toxic. Of course, everything is relative. Anything and everything is technically a little bit toxic. When you get a printer, just don't freak out from the smell, most printers smell the first print or even two or three, but that goes away.
I just recommended it, but the Anycubic Vyper is by far the best beginner 3d printer out there. The main thing it does better than any of the Creality stuff like the Ender 3 is that it has auto bed leveling that really works. It sounds so easy, but leveling your bed is by far the biggest pain for people new to 3d printing.
The Prusa MK3 has less features and is $600 more, but you get really good support. The Vyper just works, 4 screws and a few plugs to assemble, real auto bed leveling, and is very reasonably priced. Prusa gets big money for support because nobody else really offers it. If you get a defective part in your Vyper, you will be expected to troubleshoot, they will send you a new part, but you will be expected to know how to install it.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've probably tried a dozen or so different brands of PLA on my Prusa MK3s. Some I love, others I like, and still others are trash. My personal favorite brands based on quality, consistency, ease to work with, and color are as follows:
#1 | Prusament (By far #1 for me. Cheapest if you order in increments of 2 spools at a time due to shipping) | https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/42-prusament?orderby=name&orderway=asc
These you can all get on Amazon
#2 | 3D Solutech
#3 | Gizmo Dorks
#4 | Hatchbox
#5 | Amolen
#6 | eSun
As a point of reference, I'm a hobby printer who also creates and sells 3D mods (mostly pinball, but not exclusively). I currently have about 20 different rolls of filament in my cabinet that I use for various things, I can't guess how many dozens of spools I've gone through over the last several years.
However, my opinion is just that. I'm not providing any objective analysis of what filament is best and why. All I know is that I want something that prints consistently, results in high detailed prints, has good opaque color (unless I'm wanting translucent), is of consistent quality and sizing, etc. Also, if you want "clear" PLA (really a misnomer) I've tried 6 or 7 different brands/kinds. By far the clearest PLS I've found is 3D Solutech's "Premium PLA" (not their standard PLA). Most all clear PLA filament is milky, but this stuff as very clear on the spool and still pretty clear in thin layers.
Also, the common wisdom is that PETG is stronger than PLA. This has been proven to be false in numerous comparison tests. There are multiple factors related to strength including infill, perimeter layers, grain direction related to stress, etc. What PETG does have, however, is a much higher melting point so it is good for objects that will be in hotter use environments before it softens (ABS is even more resistant to heat, and there are even other blends beyond ABS for stronger mechanical parts). PETG also does have more flex. However, depending upon just how much flex you may need a PLA printed with the right infill can give you plenty of flex. Don't get me wrong, PETG still has it's place and is a great material. It is a little harder to work with (primarily nailing down the settings for a good first layer), sticks to the bed a lot more so can be difficult to release, etc.
90-95% of what I print is PLA, 5% PETG, and the occasional ABS part. PLA is by far the easiest material to work with when you are learning, so I'd by a couple of common colors (black, silver, white, whatever) and start learning how to print 3D objects.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You're welcome, but just remember I'm only one opinion.

Quoted from dudah:

Finished up my Elvira crypt mod last night, quite the upgrade!
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