I'm getting ready to order an Ender 3 Pro so I can make light shields for a homebrew I'm working on, suggests for newbie software for fairly simple shapes such as light shields? Will be printing with PLA black.
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Quoted from Nokoro:Onshape is a free, cloud based CAD program that is pretty user friendly and more powerful than Tinkercad if you want to try something with more functionality. There are some really good online tutorials to follow. Within a couple of hours, you will have the basics down and be able to make what you need.
I'll check them both out.
I'm sure like any tool that I have obtained in the past, once I start using it I find new and interesting ways to.use it further. No doubt light shields are just the beginning.
Quoted from Ashram56:If you don't mind the risk of a changing licence term, Fusion 360 from autodesk is quite good, lot of functionalities. It's free for personal usage (reason I'm stating 'risk of changing licence terms' is because Autodesk reduced the capabilities, especially import/export of the free version, which is a pita)
I'll settle for "easiest to use" at the moment and then step up as I get practice and print ideas grow in complexity. If the software is too daunting to use at first, I'm not going to progress.
For the moment I need some rather basic shapes that frankly I could make out of other materials but wish to venture into 3D printing.
I have ZERO hands on experience with 3D printing or even CAD, I can read and work with blueprints though and at one time create them by hand.
Quoted from Nokoro:I'll also add that I found the process of learning how to use a 3D printer infinitely more frustrating and difficult than the process of learning how to use a CAD program. It took me a very long time to figure out how to get rid of the imperfections in my prints. There's lots of online help and advice, including here, but there are just so many variables and little adjustments that affect things. It was and still is very intimidating for me.
I have a friend with a few printers whom does a lot of work, that aspect I'm not concerned about. He pays someone to do the software however.
2 weeks later
Quoted from mbwalker:What are you concerned about specifically? Is there a little lifting on the corners (not sure)? Or are you a little worried about this area being a little rough?
[quoted image]
Looks pretty good for a first print.
Just surprised that area was a little rough.
Thank you, its gratifying to see something you drew on the screen come to life even if it is a simple box in a box.
Quoted from toyotaboy:Measure it with a calipers, make sure what you're printing is accurate.
Had not thought of that, will do. Not that it matters for this particular part but could for others I'm brewing in my head.
Quoted from gdonovan:Had not thought of that, will do. Not that it matters for this particular part but could for others I'm brewing in my head.
Checked, pretty much spot on.
Quoted from herg:It does look like those flange areas lifted a bit, and that will cause the rough top surface. What does your first layer look like? The bottom of your print should be smooth, with all the little strings stuck together into one sheet, but not squished so much that the separate lines are crowded and wavy. Get that first layer dialed in, and I bet the top surface will look better.
Of course, if your first layer is already good, you might have a bed adhesion issue. I'm assuming you're using PLA filament?
1) Using a PLA sample that came with machine.
2) It was stuck to the bed pretty good. I did not have to hammer it off or get super crazy but it did require a tap or two with the provided putty knife.
I'm fairly happy with it but surprised the surface was rough. The next ones I'm making upped the thickness from 1 mm to 2 mm, see how that comes out.
20211026_100304 (resized).jpgQuoted from mbwalker:Just for the heck of it, turn on 'raft' in your slicer and see what happens. That will lay down a few layers as a base and help w/adhesion - then see how that rough area turns out.
Better to really dial in the printer, but trying the raft is an easy way to see if it cleans up the print, then go from there.
Good luck!
Ok, I had raft shut off but can change the setting and give it a spin.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:Rafts are worth trying but they should generally be avoided whenever possible IMO. I prefer using a brim when some extra adhesion help is needed since it won't affect the bottom surface of the print and is much easier to remove.
I'm not having an adhesion issue, just thought the flat top area looked rough on one side.
Quoted from Nokoro:Perhaps lower the nozzle just slightly so that first layer is a little more smooshed. You may not see as much of the lines then.
They dont bother me that much but will adjust down tonight. Dragged a piece of paper through to adjust when can be a little subjective.
Quoted from joetechbob:Check that everything is level/plumb and that you don't have any slop in drive belts, etc.
Squared everything with bubble level before print. Belts, all snug.
Quoted from mbwalker:In case it's a warped bed issue:
Not sure what printer you have, but the newer versions of the Marlin software (that would be the software in the printer, if they are using that) has a neat semi-automated adjustment that emulates auto leveling. The hotend will mover over a grid pattern on the build plate, and you adjust at each point (not adjusting the springs, but moving the hotend up or down). Don't remember how many points it checks, but it will add a 'fudge factor' to compensate, based on the value you dial in at each point when calibrating. Rather slick, really.
I'm assuming you have a 0.4mm nozzle? And what value are you extruding at?
Its a bone stock Ender Pro 3 out of the box.
Want to thank everyone for the help! I have more than a few ideas for stuff that has not been done before and looking forward to learning more.
Quoted from joetechbob:If it's a warped bed just throw a glass bed on top? amazon.com link »
I like that on general principle.
Quoted from mbwalker:Looks like you are off to a good start tho!
There's not one particular thing that's terribly hard in this hobby, but there's like a million little things that each one can cause a problem with a print!
What are you using for a slicer?
Creality 1.2.3 that is bundled with the machine.
Quoted from dudah:Try tree supports in Cura, much more efficient for larger prints, less material, less time, great results.
I looked up Cura this morning and the only problem I see is only 64 bit computer support.
Ha! Nothing like that here, I'll try it on my work PC.
The slicer that comes with the printer is very basic. The menu contains the following...
What are you printing with, what is it printing on and add supports yes/no?
Quoted from Irishbastard:You have to enable tree support, I believe you select "support structure", then "advanced", then find and click the box to enable the option.
Thanks! Found it hiding in the preferences in configuring Cura.
curaw (resized).jpgQuoted from mbwalker:Adding to dudah's comment...I've really liked the results with Cura' tree support w/the 'Touching Buildplate' option. That forces the trees to (like it says) to only attach to the build plate. Makes for a cleaner print. Along those lines, I try to make the support the absolute minimum so it really easy to remove. Very pleased with the results, but a lot still depends on the print - whether it lends itself to that type of support or not.
I know there are a lot of fans of the Pursa slicer, but I tend to gravitate towards Cura w/my Ender. I've seen first hand the difference the slicer can make.
Everyone's mileage will vary tho.
I'm liking it already, might have made me a convert.
20211028_163940 (resized).jpgQuoted from mbwalker:Snooping around the internet, looks like there is an unofficial Cura build for a Raspberry Pi. That would be a cheap way to run it at home.
https://www.3dprintbeast.com/cura-on-raspberry-pi/
Just food for thought... No experience w/it on my end.
We have a bunch of i5's moldering in the server room I can make off with so no big deal. Might even have an i7 or two for the taking. Everything was updated to Win10 a year or two ago and the owner just purchased new preloaded machines.
Quoted from mbwalker:One thing you might need to do down the road if you ever import a complex print (i.e. lot's a triangles/large file size) and want to mod it in TinkerCad, is to use the free MicroSoft 3D Builder to reduce the complexity. Super easy to reduce the mesh (sometimes it won't reduce tho). TinkerCad has both file and triangle size limits. Pretty big numbers by default, but some of the imported files are enormous. MeshMixer is another free program, but boy - it hogs the CPU like crazy when reducing the mesh. 3D Builder zips thru it pretty quick, plus it has some other pretty neat features. Wouldn't want to use 3D Builder to create something, that would be a bit of a PIA.
For what I have in mind, I'll be moving away from Tinkercad in a few weeks. I'll start looking at other CAD programs when I'm further along with my plans.
I'm looking to duplicate or simply replace some steel trough mechs with 3d printed assemblies.
Quoted from toyotaboy:You have some ringing here
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/vibrations-and-ringing
[quoted image]
For the purpose of this print it doesn't matter, but something to look into for other prints where it matters.
That was with the Creality slicer file. I did take note that there was some machine adjustment that was different between the two when printing like speed and fan duty cycle.
In fairness to Creality that might have been a very fast print speed as fine looks for that part was not a priority.
Quoted from mbwalker:I keep telling myself I'll do the same now that I'm retired, but almost a year later I can't say I've done much about it. Other priorities just seem to get in the way. Maybe now that the weather is starting to turn cold, I'll find time.
There's Blender, Fusion 360, and a bunch of others. I tried Fusion 360 (and I still have it loaded up), but it's such a step up in it's abilities - just a lot to tackle unless I really put my mind to it. A number of pages back in this thread, there was a pretty good discussion about the free drawing programs. Both apps and online.
I loaded Bender on my workstation and promptly lost my mind trying to figure it out.
I'll beat on TinkerCad for a few more weeks to get the basics down pat and then look to move up. Frankly I don't think I have anything else to make for this particular project so any models done will be to strictly build up my skill set.
1 week later
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Ben touting it for a couple of years, but my go to slicer is PrusaSlicer. I was a diehard Cura fan, but turned to PrusaSlicer when it was still Slic3r and haven't looked back or regretted it once. BTW, you don't have to be printing on a Prusa printer to utilize it.
https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer
I'm trying this on the shop machine now, generated its first file and doing a 16 hour print.
First print with ABS and glass plate, ABS likes it hot! Love the flat surface.
255C and 105C settings. Lifted 15 minutes into program both times off the PIE surface. Flipped plate to textured side and didn't stick at all. Got a ball of plastic string for my trouble.
Going inside to watch Dune.
20211112_200736 (resized).jpgDid some reading, going to up the plate temp higher and cut the print speed in half to see if I get better adhesion. Do you recommend an enclosure for printing with ABS? My buddy swears by his.
Quoted from toyotaboy:It's pretty much required. The chamber also needs to be between 60-70C to prevent warping. Sometimes the bed is enough to heat up a chamber, sometimes you need to add heat.
Made a chamber, still doing it. Current print temps are 250/105C. Moved head up, moved head down.
Only thing that seemed to help was abrading the PEI sheep with 600 grit wet/dry paper and recleaning with alcohol. On attempt #6.
Quoted from toyotaboy:yea always sand PEI following with alcohol whenever things stop sticking. I sometimes go down to 200 grit because 600 grit doesn't always have enough bite.
Pulled the glass sheet, back to factory. Last attempt the nozzle was actually dragging on the print.
This thing prints PLA flawless. kicking my ass with ABS
Quoted from Yelobird:Just apply a light amount of purple glue stick and you’ll be done with it. One application and you’ll do a dozen prints. Washes off in seconds with warm water. PEI is hit or miss with ABS and no coating. And you don’t need to go that hot. 235 should be enough so you don’t warp.
I have it throttled back to 240 at the moment.
Will try the glass with PEI again with glue stick and see what happens, printing flawlessly on the factory mag sheet at the moment.
Quoted from BobLangelius:I have had a couple of thermal runaways on my prusa and both times it was a faulty slice.
At a certain point in the slice it decided it wanted 0 degrees on the bed and the machine then sees the bed as too hot and throws a runaway error.
it was difficult to find, but the clue was that the file would runaway and stop at the exact some point each time it was run.
Question: fan on or off when printing ABS?
Funny you mentioned slicer as I dumped the 8 piece file done with Cura and doing a single piece with the bundled Creality slicer.
Quoted from Davi:I see - but without knowing the real goal it's hard to offer alternates (if your are looking for).
Automotive.
A friend of mine prints in ABS all the time for his auto accessory business. He doesn't even prep the files, just prints them out after some outside guy has sliced the files.
If he can print regularly with ABS then I should be able to do so as well. He prints on glass with tinfoil and gluestick, same printer.
I's prefer to print with ABS as it is has more impact resistance, higher melting temp and doesn't degrade over time as PLA eventually will.
Have a another print going this morning, should know in 2 hours if successful, put a brim on it this time and upped the temps. The enclosure temp is at a steady 110F so I think that is more than warm enough. Also slowed down the print of the initial layers to try and get it to stick.
Quoted from PeterG:I know about that PLA can distort under direct sunlight, I made a mistake to dry some PLA prints in direct sunlight and they shrinked. But degrading PLA over time, what time are we talking about? I understand that in Automotive ABS is more used. For pinball related items, mods, replacements are we talking about degrading times within 10-15 years?
15 years seems to be worse case, longer of course under optimal conditions.
I'd prefer the more durable material all else being equal even if the learning curve is a PITA.
Oh, and the parts I'm printing currently? I'm building one last Ghostbusters proton pack with the supplies I still have on hand. The parts I'm missing, 3d printed. Seems like a good way to learn ABS and the packs tend to get beat up at events.
thrower_right (resized).jpgSuccess! Slower on first layer, used a brim and glue stick as well.
Here are the details I recall from memory.
Amazon ABS
Creality 1-2-3 slicer, average quality setting.
Pre-heated bed to 80C before loading program
Bed temp 105C
ABS temp 255C
Enclosure temp 43C (110F)
Factory Ender 3 Pro bed and magnetic mat with light coat of Gorilla glue stick.
Flow 100%
Fan ON (suggested by slicer)
Brim ON
First layer or two at only 30 mm/s, the rest at 50 mm/s
Nozzle fairly tight against the deck for good squish on the first layer, set with deck at 80C pre-warming.
Have to say my buddy is right, the ABS likes to be good and hot.
Following up on printing with ABS.
Current settings are 250C and 100C with 50 mm/s speed, with 35mm/s for the first few layers.
On last nights job I noticed zits and blobs but just on the lower layer or two so assumed the print head was moving too slow at 25 mm/s. For this morning's test I bumped it to 35 mm/s and observed the same thing though perhaps not as bad. Should I move the lower layer speed to 45 mm/s or start looking at retraction settings?
Oh and the thermal issue was fixed by shutting off the damn fan when printing with ABS regardless of what the slicer program thinks.
Decided to slice the same model with Cura and Creality and do a test and see which looks better. Maybe some clue will be there.
Quoted from herg:Myself, I run the bed at 115C because that keeps the top surface of the bed over the glass transition temperature for ABS (approx 105C).
Right now I'm running between 100 and 105C with the stock bed (no glass) and the unit maxes out at 110C
Quoted from herg:Avoiding warping is more than just keeping the print stuck to the bed.
Yes I'm getting minor warping on the bed surface side but at this point I'm happy to just get a print to stick and complete.
Now comes the fine tuning to get rid of the quality issues.
Quoted from herg:My chamber, I try to keep at 50C. Below 40C, I can pretty much guarantee it will warp if it's big enough.
I'm averaging 110F (43C) with no heat source besides the printer but so far all of my ABS prints have been done in under 4-5 hours or less. I am planning to insulate it properly to see if I can get another 10F warmer though without addition heatsource.
Quoted from herg:Hotend temp, the range is very wide in my experience. I've ran at 220C - 255C with no noticable differences. One thing I do that goes against conventional wisdom is to run the part fan at about 25%. If I don't, overhangs come out terrible.
I'll try a few test prints with 25% fan and with fan off. With the fan on per the slicer 100% it causes my Ender to error out with thermal code. Watching the control panel the nozzle temp starts dropping and coming back up like mad. No fan and its rock steady.
Next print test is tonight with 250C/100C with fan off sliced with Cura to see if the zits go away. If so I'll examine the settings to find out what is different between Creality 1-2-3 and Cura. From memory it looks like retraction settings are different and that could be it right there.
Thanks for the feedback!
ABS out to kill me I swear.
Lower levels are fine, things go sideways on the upper third. I'm going to say the enclosure needs to be hotter than the 120F since it looks like upper section is too cold. Current nozzle and bed at 255/105C, fan 25%
To add to the fun, the filament started grinding so did not finish print! Assuming a plugged or restricted nozzle.
Next step: 100 watt bulb to keep upper layers warm, fan off.
20211126_055047 (resized).jpgOk what are my options for 3d Printers?
This Ender 3 Pro is going to be going back shortly. Maybe I just got a lemon, this one been nothing but trouble.
Now it won't run for an hour without grinding filament. New nozzle, everything is clear, even made the retraction settings very conservative and it still does it. I have wasted more ABS than I have actually had successful prints.
Quoted from plasticbugs:If you want a printer that “just works”, go with a Prusa. I love mine. Over 50 prints so far and zero failures. No tinkering. No modding or necessary upgrades.
New twist- if I leave enclosure open, it will complete a test print without grinding failure.
Quoted from BrewNinja:Putting an enclosure around the entire 3d printer is asking for trouble, any model.
1) Its recommend for ABS printing universally from what I have been reading. Ender actually sells a insulated enclosure for this printer.
2) friend of mine has been printing with ABS virtually without issue for 2 years now, he doesn't even do the design or slicing work. Same model printer.
He is a literal tech caveman.
I may have a lemon, simple as that or some bad ABS. I'm not interested in printing with PLA.
Quoted from RobF:Second the Prusa recommendation. I have both the mk3s and a mini. It's as close to set and forget as a consumer level printer can be.
I don't mind tinkering but good lord as soon as I overcome one issue another rears its ugly head.
Franky I don't know how my buddy churns out his ABS product with the same Ender units month after month.
Quoted from RobF:Similar on those properties and much less prone to warping.
Warping does not seem to be the problem at the moment. I have to pry them off the pad now with a little effort. Some glue stick and a brim work wonders.
Until yesterday the main problem was upper layers of print (3 inches off the plate) showed poor lamination and adhesion indicating the print was getting cold away from the plate (or the head was taking a too leisurely trip about the print) hence the insulated enclosure. Now that I have done that, it will grind the ABS inside a 1/2 hour or less.
I currently have a 20 hour print going with the enclosure open but with a towel over the top half of the opening. Its 57F in the shop, and in the enclosure near the ABS reel around 80F. Its banging away without failure at the moment..
Oh and I currently have retraction OFF. Retraction seems to aggravate the issue. My friend suggested having the reel outside the box, but that doesn't make sense on its face as the product is going to enter through a port and warm up rapidly by the time it gets to the gear feed.
Quoted from mbwalker:Have you tried letting him print the file since he has the same printer?
We have discussed it, just not happened yet as were both busy as hell.
Quoted from Irishbastard:I've had my Ender 3 for years, well over a thousand + prints...I haven't leveled the bed in over a year, absolutely zero issues....it just prints. So far, one fan and a thermistor failed, zero other issues. Basically stock.
PLA or ABS?
PLA seems to work well, ABS on the other hand...
Some printers maybe fine, others may suffer from tolerance stack and not be so fine.
Quoted from herg:Is your extruder fan working well? If it clogs and grinds in heat, but doesn't if the enclosure is open, I'd suspect heat creep causing molten filament too high up into the extruder.
I'll agree, I have no idea how your buddy could have good results letting other people send him pre-sliced files.
Yup, fan works great. Has about a hundred hours of run time if not less.
Quoted from Irishbastard:Mostly PLA, but also PETG, TPU, that wood stuff (forgot it's exact term)...no ABS
PLA is great. The only failure I had there is when I forgot to check off add support on one print.
Current ABS print job is at 27% curious if it finishes in 12 hours.
With 40% to go you can clearly see the layer separation with the ABS once it gets away from the heated deck. I need to keep the enclosure warm and sealed without impacting the feed drive and ABS.
I think there will be some redneck engineering in the near future.
For a point of reference, similar print done in PLA next to a different ABS fail. I'll get this licked yet.
Edit: Aborted print 5 minutes ago.
Second ABS model shows significantly more warping and separation compared to first which was done in sealed enclosure at 110F ambient before ABS feed failure. Pics later.
Quoted from toyotaboy:You should really reconsider PLA.
I need to master ABS, period.
If it requires a different machine then so be it.
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:ha, I recognize that part. It can be a beast with all the internal supports needed to print in that orientation. One of the reasons I split it in the original design so it can be oriented differently without all the supports. The remixed wand base by windrake is nice though and fixes some of the model issues from the original design mine was based off. Cool to see it being used by others.
I did a scratch built hero pack which came out awesome but its stout to lug around. I started collecting parts in 2012 for a fiberglass shell "light pack" with the only thing I'm missing was the wand.. so I thought I'd get the printer dialed in with a wand before turning out pinball parts with it. This will be my last GB pack and I'm moving all the bits and pieces left over as a package on GBFans..
Once you have done a scratch hero and a fiberglass shell what else is there to do?
gb_comic_day (resized).jpgQuoted from Nokoro:That’s an oxymoron. Be prepared to spend hours learning how to print and make adjustments to get things right.
That said, an Ender 3 is a good entry level device with lots of online support. It’s also cheap enough that you don’t have to break the bank to figure out whether you want to stick with this hobby.
Agreed.
If you want to make a rough print it can be done, particularly with PLA.
I was up and running with little effort but just scratching the surface. Once you start digging around with the slicer software and making your own models the rabbit hole is damn near endless. Great when it works, maddening when it doesn't.
Quoted from mbwalker:So what do you think was the most important change to your setup/slicer that made a difference?
Loaded question as I think this unit has it's own issues which I'm starting to narrow down.
ABS likes to be hot- bed, enclosure and hot end.
This unit has problems with grinding when hot so I reduced the retractions and went to a .8 nozzle. It worked so now I'm going to a .6 nozzle and start dialing print quality settings back in.
A heated enclosure over 120F is a must to minimize warping with ABS and then you have to work around that problem. If I keep fooling with this Ender 3 and ABS I plan to move the control panel and feed mech outside the compartment.
Some of the things I'm working on an .8 nozzle is fine. I'm rerunning some light shields and will post a pic shortly.
Quoted from mbwalker:At a 0.8mm nozzle, what quality did you print at (you're still using the Cura slicer?)?
Draft is all that is available as a default, though you can always do a custom profile. Yes on the Cura, so far it has done best with the larger nozzle size.
Quoted from AUKraut:Common issue, metal replacements are available from many vendors including Amazon
amazon.com link »
Unbelievable. Any other common issues I should be aware of?
Quoted from plasticbugs:I definitely think if you like tinkering, then the Ender 3 is the ideal first printer for you. But if you just want to print stuff, like that person a page or so back, you should not have to do a ton a research about ptfe tubing and spend hours tuning a printer and installing some after-market stuff. Not saying that the Ender 3 doesn't work out of the box (I hope it does!), but dang just that bed leveling video I posted above is completely mental.
If every third or fourth time I wanted to make a print, I had to get out a specific little sticker that I had to buy for this specific purpose and go through a five minute bed leveling dance, or if I had to cover the print bed with glue stick so the print would adhere, or I had to always print the first layer and check it, then scrap it and then "really" start the print, I would probably not make any prints. Wild stuff.
Serious question: Do people really have little stickers that you had to buy to level the bed?
No.
I use a piece of paper, generally set it once and leave it alone unless I change something.
You get a feel for what "is right" pretty quick.
Quoted from Sijcolo:I’m not sure if anyone else saw this but micro center is selling ender 3 pros for $99 after coupon.
Here is the coupon
https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/specialoffer3dprinter.aspx
I should get a second... for spare parts.
Quoted from Anony:Nice. These kinds of parts don't make sense to mass produce on 3d printers but for us who just need a few it's so great being able to whip one up like we're living in Star Trek
Oh I'm pretty sure at least one pinball vendor is selling a 3D printed version! I can whip up my own thanks.
spools (resized).jpgQuoted from Anony:Nice. These kinds of parts don't make sense to mass produce on 3d printers but for us who just need a few it's so great being able to whip one up like we're living in Star Trek
I was explaining what a labor multiplier a 3d printer is now that I have one running. Stuff that I would fabricate in the past from metal/wood/plastic now I just make up a print, stuff it in the printer and walk away to do something else for a few hours while the printer is banging away. Almost like there is two of me without the food bill, lol.
Quoted from DudeRegular:Alright, it looks like I will have an Ender 3v2 under the tree. What filament is recommended for getting started?
What do you plan on printing with? I used some run of the mill PLA and it gave me no trouble at all.
Quoted from Anony:I'd say avoid ABS unless you need it for the application.
ABS is a steep learning curve and surprise! What works for one brand doesn't for another.
I found Hatchbox silver ABS was really brittle, broke off two pieces before getting it loaded in the machine.
Quoted from BobLangelius:Something like this?
[quoted image][quoted image]
You would l=-also probably need to print a "dummy" (no barb) rollover star to get it centered properly for gluing.
The skills you guys have designing stuff is amazing.
2 weeks later
Pinball and other related (My first designed 3D part)
So at work we have these bedside tables which are tremendously rugged, very high quality units but the manufacturer has been out of business for a decade or two so you can no longer get parts. The main part that is problematic has been the release handle for the table height so I decided to make one in Tinkercad and print it out in ABS with an acetone vapor bath finish.
Nine revisions later (the final ones for screw pattern adjustment) I was at a point where I was satisfied and ran off a 100% infill and performed my first successful vapor bath.
A rescaled Batwing also got vapor bath finish for my DE Batman.
20220103_081634 (resized).jpg20220103_081715 (resized).jpg20220103_081732 (resized).jpg20220103_081757 (resized).jpg
1 week later
Quoted from toyotaboy:As shown, I can print it for $10 plus $5 shipping. Didn't take me long to model that but figure I should make something off it. Send me a PM.
You da man! That was speedy!
Quoted from PinballHaven:Can someone please check this link? Also is the licensing my problem on this not working? Thanks in advance-
"hobbit medieval madness pinball beast troll bracket by krawcyk is licensed under theCreative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial license."
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5192000
I get nothing but a 404, not logged in nor even have an account.
Doing a search for "hobbit medieval madness pinball beast troll bracket" comes up with nothing as well.
Quoted from Anony:That sucks. I really don't see how they can do anything. There are thousands of copyrighted things on thingiverse. I'd just post it and be done with it. You're not making money off of it and you're in Amsterdam, the odds they can take any legal action against you are about 0.
In the automotive field a car manufacturer cannot prevent the aftermarket from selling a comparable part.
ANSML isn't even selling a part. This is blatant lawfare.
2 weeks later
Quoted from PinballHaven:no, it was the creality glass with PEI coating
I had the PEI get stuck and rip as well.
2 weeks later
Quoted from John_I:I just added my own design of the light baffles used in old Bally, Williams, Stern, etc backboxes to thingiverse. The original Bally baffles were stapled in and a lot of the time they are pretty mangled or missing. I went with a single screw hole on each side instead of two because the part only weighs a couple of grams and four screws is overkill! This is the same stl file as the product sold on my pinside store, but I wanted to make it available for people to print for themselves and friends.
Best printed in PETG for heat resistance, but PLA will do if you are using LEDs.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5225801
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for posting these, need to print some out this weekend and left my custom shield files at work.
Re-scaled in the slicer for the dimensions I required and came out great in ABS.
Resized_20220218_184448 (resized).jpegResized_20220219_081336 (resized).jpeg 2 weeks later
Quoted from Good-Times:Hoping to get some advice - My Ender 3 V2 has been consistently good for about 6 weeks, then suddenly I'm getting what I think is under extrusion. I've replaced the nozzle, tightened the spring in the feeder, cleaned the feeder gear, replaced the capricorn bowden tubing, replaced both pneumatic connectors and clips, and tried +5deg head temp and -5 print speed to no avail. Same result. Anything else I should try? I'm printing indoors, so temp and humidity should be ok, and it's been perfect with the default settings until now. So strange.
[quoted image]
Are you still using the stock feed tensioner?
Quoted from Sleal16:On my ender 3 when I got under extrusion that I could but figure out why it ended up being the stock feeder. The housing is made of plastic and it had a hard to find hairline fracture on the underside. Read it that it can be a common issue. Replaced/upgraded it and been working when better since then
That's were my head is at, all sorts of problems till I upgraded to metal unit. Been rock solid since.
Quoted from Good-Times:I've got a whole new all-metal feeder assembly due here Friday, that's about the last thing left it could be! .
Its where I would have started, I wasted weeks on the particular gremlin.
Ender 3 Pro for entry level.
Buy a metal feed kit for $10 or $20 and start printing, I'd not waste any other money on other "upgrades"
Mine has been banging away for months now once the bugs were kinked out with the feed unit. Holds adjustments just fine. Glass plate with PEI optional, been making fine prints with the factory magnetic mat. The glass plate makes them a little smoother on the bottom but can introduce new headaches.
Quoted from Davi:I disagree. It's far-far from the original design.
Generic "goalie" could just as easy be some guy taking a dump.
4 months later
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Hi all, has anyone created something similar to what Pinmonk has done. Deadpool and Iron Maiden have a bunch of plain inserts which need colourising
[quoted image][quoted image]
I'd just get some colored plexi, cut into squares and make an a hole to hold in place.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MHHY1P/ref=twister_B074MG5YSP
Lots of ways to skin that cat.
Quoted from DropTarget:Thanks
I have PLA and ABS, was going to build / buy an enclosure.
I'm pretty sure that PLA would work, but the person who created the model used ABS.
I just want to make sure that the part will work and have longevity.
I'm a fan of ABS, the smell is negligible but an enclosure is good for large prints. Small prints I dont bother.
Quoted from Ashram56:Also, could never get bed adhesion with ABS at ambient temperature anyway
Only problem I have had with ABS is the upper layers delaminating unless in the enclosure with the heat on.
Quoted from DropTarget:No problems with ABS on this print, great adhesion, no separation. The piece is only 2.6mm tall at it's highest though. Nozzle 230°, bed 110°
2.6 mm is nothing.
I was printing this and it was a bear to keep warm enough to complete a print but finally did. ABS shrinks a bit as it cools, important to keep it evenly heated and then gently cool down after printing.
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