(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #26 Crash's Thingiverse Pinball Search Links Posted by Crash (3 years ago)

Post #35 Speaker lights for metal back box Stern Posted by Darscot (3 years ago)

Post #119 Pinball Button Remover Posted by Ashram56 (3 years ago)

Post #212 Swinks Shapeways Downloads Posted by swinks (3 years ago)

Post #682 Gravestone Cross Posted by swinks (2 years ago)

Post #683 Power Supply Fan Adapter (Modern Stern) Posted by plasticbugs (2 years ago)

Post #1049 Ball holder Posted by swinks (2 years ago)

Post #1696 Backbox Light Baffles Posted by John_I (2 years ago)

Post #1721 Spike 2 LED speaker panel Posted by dudah (2 years ago)

Post #1946 Target stabilizers Posted by bigguybbr (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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7 months later
#2057 1 year ago
Quoted from PapaBless:

Welp, people who sell similar coolers might be pissed, here is my personal file for a 3d printed flipper coil fan cooler. I tried to make mine a little more "beefy" some others selling them on here look like they might snap easily
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/376D1kUwxCO
Flip it on it's side and don't forget to add supports.
Please feel free to use it, I charge a whopping $0
Here is the link for some good fans too
amazon.com link »
You will need longer machine screws as the ones that come with the fans are not long enough to fit the cooler.

Thanks for sharing. I was looking for some info on doing a DIY on this recently.

1 week later
#2147 1 year ago
Quoted from mjalexan:

My 3d prints for South Park around the Kenny area: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5373842[quoted image]

This is pretty cool. I'd like to print a set for a friend who has a South Park and gets the ball stuck in this area pretty often. Probably broken plastics or something. I went and got the files and the base is coming in way undersized compared to the others. I could probably figure out the scale needed to make the base the correct size, but wanted to run this by you to see if you had any idea what happened. I got it a second time and it's the same size both times when I pull all 3 files into Cura.

SP_mountains (resized).JPGSP_mountains (resized).JPG
1 week later
#2210 1 year ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

anything williams, yes pretty much

Under what protections do the martians fall under? No snark, honest question. Maybe there is/was a design patent on it. It’s not a part that could get a utility patent, although maybe there was one for the use of coils to make them get all jiggly. If it’s only part of a patented assembly, then maybe this would come into play:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aro_Manufacturing_Co._v._Convertible_Top_Replacement_Co.

It doesn’t say Bally or Attack From Mars anywhere on the Martian, unless it’s molded somewhere in the back. Bally and AFM are trademarks that can be protected. How does the aftermarket car parts world work? Dodge designed the shape of the brake pads for my Journey, but dozens of companies make replacement pads.

Trying not to go all wall of text here, but last point was recently Honda threw a fit and had a site pull all of the parts with Honda or any of their vehicle names in the title. The issue is supposedly that it could be thought that Honda has blessed those parts. Anyone using a site to get a file to print at home probably isn’t looking at things with that angle, but there are a lot of idiots out there. But what if a door insert was named “HC 92-95 door insert” instead of “Honda Civic 92-95 door insert”? You could spell it backwards too, but Honda was too smart for you there with the Civic. Totally planned.

5 months later
#2744 1 year ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

Nice thing about the HF calipers is that when you drop them, your guts don't turn into a knot, like they would if you were to drop a 12" mitutoyo

When I was working on my drafting associate’s degree I had to take a few machining classes, which I really enjoyed. The teacher (who was a really chill personality but knew what you would expect with 20 years of working experience) remarked about how he was not a fan of digital and insisted on dial calipers. So I’ve course we learned to read on those. Guess what I use at home? And at work? Yeah, convenience wins out in the end, and they are plenty accurate.

My first HF ones actually only went out to 2 places. I think it was a yellow/purple plastic one. Would not suggest those. Get the black plastic and metal ones that are rebranded and found all over. Mine were $20 and I’ve had them a while now. Not sure what the current price is, but always remember about the 20% off coupon at HF.

10 months later
#4839 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You should learn to use mm for smaller measurements. Don't know about others, but I do all my 2D and 3D designing using the metric system even though I'm as American as they come. Just so much easier to be precise and no need for constant fraction-decimal conversions (I realize you only used decimals, which is good). Even so, having smaller units to start with eliminates a lot of the decimals.

Or just don’t use fractions.

#4848 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

There is still an issue in design sometimes (especially 2D design). It becomes difficult and/or time consuming to size/move elements for items with 3 or 4 decimal places using a workspace ruler, and introduces potential typos with all those numbers. However, with millimeters you are typically only dealing with one decimal place (tenths of a mm) at most. In other words, why not use a system with whole numbers instead of one where you have to use thousandths.
I do a lot of design in Photoshop, Illustrator, and 3D tools, and in my years of experience, the metric system is significantly more efficient in these environments. Also, all of my equipment (3D printer, laser cutter, CNC, etc.) are oriented around the metric system by default. May not be the experience of others, and that okay.
It's kind of funny, but the only metric measurements I really think in are mm & cm. Anything else and I'm doing constant conversions in my head (volume, mass, and distance). Awhile back I watched this video on the topic, and it presents the issue quite well:

Use whatever you are comfortable with, for sure. Just try to avoid fractions in CAD is all I’m saying. Just asking for headaches, and architects.

4 months later
#5969 69 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

So I have a widget that is about as big as your thumb, unrelated to pinball. We print them for less than 20 cents each, all in. I thought I might order 10k of them injection molded. I went to Xometry and they came back with:
Offshore (china), 51 cents each, PLUS, $6500 to make the mold, PLUS $1100 shipping on 10k of them, PLUS duties based on end-use. So the first 10k will cost me $1.27 each, plus whatever duties there are. That unfortuntely makes this a non-starter. I will never need more than 10k of them, so the "next" 10k are kind of pointless to figure.
toyotaboy has floated some alternate ideas my way and I'm going to explore some other stuff, if I really make any headway I'll share, but maybe someone can get some use out of this info.

That mold sounds pretty cheap compared to some things I’ve seen. Have you looked at getting your own benchtop molding machine and popping parts yourself? This guy makes his own molds but makes molds for others, but I don’t know what he charges. It’s probably competitive though. He has a few molding machines and if you got one of those or one similar he could design the mold for the machine. If you can, design the mold to be able to shoot 2 or 4 parts at once instead of a single part.

https://youtube.com/@JohnSL?si=IsU1jUeQM0fPkSYU

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