(Topic ID: 246329)
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Union, KY
1 week later
Quoted from swinks:here is my gravestone cross I did years ago
https://www.shapeways.com/product/9FSM4GNKL/pinball-stern-metallica-gravestone
when you are a shapeways member a Download button will appear
has a rear mount point and hollow so you can light it up
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Yes you rock! Exactly what I was thinking. Saved me a ton of time.
4 months later
Quoted from YippieKiYay:Can anyone scan the Big Shot figure from Dr. Dude or does the STL file exists already? If so any advice where it can be found so I can actually get one for my Dr. Dude pin that is completely missing it?
I second that,I was just going to ask the same thing. I can't believe it hasn't been done yet.
5 months later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum: Also, has anyone tried the hardened steel nozzles for courser materials?
I just tried the steel on the glow pla. I don't recommend because of all the temperature adjustments from brass. Brass heats up better. I may try with my brass nozel next and don't care if it gets ruined after many prints because they are cheap. People recommend hardened steel nozzels but no one will tell you how they work differently.
Question: I have big problems of my prints adhering to the mat of my ender 3. If I create a base in slicer it will be just fine. Is there another way of printing so it sticks without a wasteful base? Even if its a square object? What are skirt etc for and why? Raft is great but seems wasteful but not sure what the other options do or help?
2 weeks later
This ender 3 pro is really pissing me off. I am lucky to get anything to stick to the plate after running a good square test and uding a ton of glue. Now it must have jammed and it sticks like super glue to all thr parts. I cant get it off? Im ready to chuck the hot end
20220425_155828 (resized).jpgQuoted from mbwalker:Did your Ender come w/the magnetic build sheet?
Old tricks were to use blue painters tape, glue stick, hairspray, etc. But nowadays most have moved on to a better build plate sheet (it sits on top of the build plate). I just started to try out a PEI sheet, so can't comment on that much other than a couple of small test prints that came out fine. Prints didn't need a raft.
I still use a skit (only a couple of lines) just to make sure the nozzle is primed and adhering to the bed adequately. Never really used a brim.
How is the PEI sheet working? I am tired of waisting time with rafts. Everything else U have tried lifts up on me. Thanks
2 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Soulrider911:TOTAN bed of Nails mod is finally finished. Was fun teaching myself some 3D sculpting to create realistic wood.
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Bravo my friend. Very nice work. If only I owned that beautiful game.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Viggin900 Ashram56 Thank you so much. I used Blender to model this. It’s an amazing software and free! It is a deep software, BUT there is a TON of wonderful tutorials on YouTube. I specifically watched a lot of tutorials on “sculpting.” Blender is not only a rad 3D modeling and animation software but has stellar sculpting capabilities that rival Z-Brush which is basically the industry standard. This guy has some great stuff on sculpting
I use Maxon C4d only because I do CGI as a day job. The best part about discovering this thread and getting a printer is now I am able to bring things to reality instead of making pretty pictures.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Shmilder:Hi All,
Does anyone have a Judge Dredd with the topper and willing to use the lidar on their phone and an app to scan the topper for me.
Would love to attempt to 3D print one.
Cheers
Just read up on this,I had no idea. This may be my excuse to upgrade. Whats everyones results when printing the scan?
1 month later
Introducing the PinClip. With this simple print you will now be able to add mods to your game anywhere there is a screw head. Just unscrew slightly and slide the bracket in. Screw it back in using the hole and slide the clip over top. Glue whatever you like to the clip before or after sliding it on. The possibilities are endless. Add more toys and figures to Toy Story, add more cars to Hot Wheels, or print up anything you want from on your 3D printer and apply it to enhance your game. I will be adding some mods to go along with this device in coming months for specific games.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/the-pinclip-viggin900
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3 weeks later
1 month later
1 week later
Just posted replacement blades for the left flipper Freddy Glove on Nightmare on Elm Street. Sweet Dreams...Hahahaha
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/freddy-krueger-pinball-glove-replacement-blades
20221017_132416 (resized).jpg20221019_144034 (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from mark532011:I cross-posted in the Cyclone thread but I don't get to post in this one very often and I thought you might like to see this. In putting the Cyclone back together I found that the underneath clear ball trough was broken. Only the end had broken and someone had epoxyed a metal plate to it in the past but it was cracking around it.[quoted image][quoted image]
Marcos shows $65 for a replacement so I decided to crank out a sleeve I could use to brace the end. A little work in Fusion 360 and a couple of prints later and I have a sleeve printed in clear that fits nicely over the broken end and will glue on to strengthen it.[quoted image][quoted image]
Thank you for posting something pinball related and not the usual printer or filament gab.
1 month later
I had my eye on the bambu also but saw the Ankermake in person and pricepoint so I was more impresssed. Most of all it was just sitting on a shelf in the open, under an air vent with people walking by and it wasn't warping. I struggle with that on my Ender. Also it is whisper quite and 200x faster compared to mine.
I created a lane saver for Gorgar but may work on other Williams System 6 games. Is that lane giving you a ball hop problem before getting to the flipper? Not any longer with this virtually invisible solution.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/williams-gorgar-pinball-lane-saver-adjustment-flipper
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Quoted from snakesnsparklers:This is an amazing, simple, elegant solution. Nice work! Would you consider making these for other games? (WPC, modern Stern, etc.)
If I have the game to take off the outlane its possible. What games are people complaining about ball hop on and I'll have a look?
Quoted from Aurich:I've probably said this before, but I'm going to repeat it anyway:
Please, please, don't buy or operate lasers that don't come with full enclosures, complete with exhaust that you are properly venting.
Machines like the X1 are garbage. They are not remotely safe, or a good idea. That they keep getting more powerful strikes me as criminal.
Spring the extra cash for a proper tool if you want to get into lasers, it's not worth it to cheap out for one of these open frame nonsense boxes. And I think a lot of people in this thread who like making signs and big flat things would have a blast with a laser. Just invest in your health and safety and get something legit.
Plastics possibly but wood and glass never killed anyone? I haven't heard of anything health cropping up? I would vent for the smell, not for anything else. Of course in california everything seems to need a warning label for some reason?
Quoted from Aurich:And everyone in Kentucky is married to their cousin, right? Let's not make this about stupid state stereotypes, this is about taking care of each other.
When you start playing with serious tools you need to take them seriously and respect them. FDM printing is fairly fool proof, so long as your printer doesn't have thermal runaway issues. When you graduate past that there are things you need to be educated about.
If you're resin printing you need to be careful handling uncured resin with your bare skin, you need to wear a respirator if you're sanding. If you're cutting with a laser you need to know what's safe to cut and how to be around it safely.
You are burning through things, even if they're nominally safe for lasers (wood, acrylic, natural leather) you don't want the be breathing in the smoke and fumes, nor coating the ceiling of your house/garage/basement with them. (Also, they can smell terrible.)
A beam that can cut through ⅛" wood will fuck your eye up if it's reflected off something and hits it. And even if you're diligent about wearing the stupid glasses they include, they're often garbage colored plastic that don't actually stop the wavelength. Buy name brand glasses from a reliable source if you want to go that route.
Laser cutting is rad, it's an awesome creative tool, and I think a lot of people in this thread would get a real kick out of it. But I encourage you to do your homework, and don't cheap out overmuch. If you're really on a budget consider a K40. Smaller cutting area, but it's a properly enclosed C02.
Anyways, if you don't want to read my ramblings watch this:
Geez, nobody was stereo typing california, its on every warning sticker in your house,appliances etc, and its just california. Look for yourself. Thats a fact, not a steretype, but thanks for stereotyping my state though. Nice.
I don't think anyone is laser etching inside there bedroom, common sense in the directions a workshop or garage is fine. No need to sound an alarm and tell everyone not to buy a laser etcher? Its no more dangerous than smoking ribs, or sitting around a camp fire, unless you are doing those things inside your house?
3 weeks later
Quoted from Sleal16:Making a "quick" IJ topper for a local friend. Statues in resin and will the the ornate trim in the X1C. Havent tried gold chrome paint effects, so will see how that turns out this weekend. I do know that I might have rushed it a bit in the gloss black base I just put on with an airbrush. Its lacquer and dont think I have thinner to clean my nozzle =/
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Funny,I'm going to try the gold painting technique this weekend also for the idol. "Quick,if you do it before I do I'll throw you the whip!"
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I just posted my Blood Dripping Goo on Cults for your spooky games. Perfect for Elvira, Walking Dead, Munsters, Monster Bash or anything that is 26" across. You get the whole package with front shooter plate and coin door. There are 2 to choose from depending on your game.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pinball-dripping-goo-blood-mod-for-stern-spike2-games-elvira-house-of-horrors-munsters
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pinball-dripping-goo-blood-mod-for-stern-spike-1-ghostbusters-or-26-inches
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Quoted from toyotaboy:If you have a modern iphone or ipad, you can scan them yourself. If you're an android person like me, photogrammetry. If you can record a video around the object (tilted down, straight, tilted up), and willing to upload them somewhere I've been having pretty good luck extracting frames from video and getting a 3d object.
I heard on the android it is only the s21 you can scan with? Is this true,I would like to have this feature?
2 weeks later
I created some floating Donkey Kong Arcade shelves for displaying things and hiding stuff.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/donkey-kong-arcade-floating-shelves-with-hidden-compartment
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Quoted from bigguybbr:Any Bond Pro owners in here? I'm a little stuck trying to think of a good way to mount this die cast Dragon tank in the same spot as on the premium, while keeping the whole thing non destructive. Anyone have any ideas? There is a central screw post, but I don't have a good way of securing it . I tried to model up a custom base that would snap on to the plastic, but that didn't really work well.
ebay.com link: itm
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There are a couple of options on the Bond thread but you just have to open the tank up and drill a hole for the screw. I added a light inside the mouth of mine. It's easy.
Quoted from Rnlo:I designed a mount for mine that uses the existing screw that mounts the tank to that model base and then a regular screw on the plastics, works great and can’t even see it. Then I made this fire that slips into the front and uses the existing lights, no additional wiring needed.[quoted image]
Holly S thats nice. Do you have that file for the flame throwers? Thats better than the mod that came out.
4 weeks later
2 weeks later
Quoted from mitchzizzle:Hey maybe you guys can help me with a value check - local 3D printer is quoting approx $40 CAD / unit if I want to print the Dr Dude Big Shot, printed in ABS for strength, best detail possible. Does this seem like a reasonable deal?
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I print these myself and have made 20 of them. PLA is fine and strong enough.
Quoted from jrcmlc:I'm lost...why was dude paying 800 canuckistani dollars to have someone make it if they were being made already in qty? Why is abs required?
My bad, I meant PLA. It was late one last night. Yeah, I've sold them on ebay and made several posts in the club thread. I don't know why nobody PM me? I'm not in the club anymore.
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Quoted from jrcmlc:Well...what is the answer? Inquiring minds want to know.
I actually decided to patch the hole in the dushwasher silverware holder using those stupid utensil holder flaps no one uses. I don't have to worry about plastic then.
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