Quoted from Sleal16:

decorative vs functional. Resin tends to be more brittle if it gets in rough situations. There some special resin formulas that have high durability properties, but price is considerably higher per bottle. I'm about to experiment with that to have some of my models safer with airballs.
As far as weaker in sunlight, not sure where that might come from. Generally you finish a model with primer/paint/topcoat so it has some protective qualities from overexposure if its outdoors a lot. But then thats the other thing, how often does something you print in resin stay outside in use.
Now the large models...Think the "not preferred" part comes from it being more challenging to have a proper support system to print successfully. Thats the only downside I see printing big. I'm slowly printing this that'll be almost a couple of feet tall. Think the bigger challenge outside of successful supports is that build plates are considerably smaller compared to FDM printers in ratio to the cost of the equipment.
[quoted image]

Quoted from latenite04:

I haven't seen a noticeable difference in cleaning between 91% and 99%. The 70% took longer to remove the extra resin and things always still felt tacky.

Quoted from swinks:

Someone mentioned my name, so explained my experiences and then you made comment almost suggesting what am I doing here without testing and proof. Your comment - "This is a 3D printing thread, not sure why an innovative answer that has worked for a lot of people is being slighted without any real testing or proof."
I was doing the wedges at the back and under the stand 5 years ago as was a big problem for Ghostbusters. You can't do your style of wedges under the bracket on a GB as the pcb's go over the mount bolts and with wedges the bolts get awfully close to the pcb's.
After doing some slo-mo video I realised that putting wedges underneath moves the rivet down so when the ball hits square on to the target it hits the top side of the rivet inducing an airball so I then created the metal bracket with angle and raising the target up a few millimetres. Have you tried the alternate bracket before commenting.
In addition I have been doing 3d printing for 9 years and learnt alot of the years of what works and what is cheap and nasty and what is really good. I am not trying to steal sales from you just sharing my experiences and lessons learnt.
here is my free download files:
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksdownload
here is my range of 3d printed parts:
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkspinball&sort=newest

Quoted from mark532011:

woohoo, got my Ender 3 S1 Pro in the mail today, happy birthday to me!

Quoted from mark532011:

Started my first print yesterday - a leg platform for the back legs
It got about 30% done and we paused it while we went out for awhile. I never moved the machine or touched anything, simply hit the pause button on the Ender 3 S1 Pro screen. When I got back, I pushed the start button.
It resumed but it is offset about 1/8 inch. You can see the top layer of infill doesn't match the rest.
Did I do something wrong? I thought you could pause a print without consequences.
[quoted image]

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Let me ask you guys another question mw that I just purchased the Creality Ender 3 S1 which should arrive in 3 days or so.
Let’s say that I find something on thingverse that I want to print. Can I make it my own side if you will? Let’s say that the thingverse measures 8” H x 5” W….Can I print the same thing but make it 4 H x 2.5” W?

Quoted from Soulrider911:

Barells came out really nice! And they fit perfect. The back is a pressure fit so you can easily remove it if need be. These will be up on my Etsy store soon! https://www.etsy.com/shop/FactoryofFun?listing_id=1088825021[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from La4s:

I like all the discussionrecently on different printer options. I have looked at the MK4 and Creality K1, but I keep coming back to the Bambu printer line.
Has anyone run into issues since it seems to be such a closed environment software and replacement parts wise?
I am leaning towards the P1P, since I prefer the PEI plate that is textured which does not work with the X1 LIDAR. Is there any other reason to choose the X1 Carbon over the P1P?

Quoted from Soulrider911:

This thing is amazing, my only regret is I waited this long to get one.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from mikepmcs:

Just to get the ball rolling, I'll start with....
Are the walls thinner than the extrusion width?

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Can we see your Strength settings please?
Did you receive an initial error mesaage on this model about floating regions? Did you create this model?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

What if you change wall generation to arachne (this is default I've noticed for other most current version of slicers)?
Also, is that a publicly available model? If so, what is the link?

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Can we see your Strength settings please?
Did you receive an initial error mesaage on this model about floating regions? Did you create this model?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Something definitely weird, but hard to diagnose since I can't actually play with it myself.
Assuming you are using Bambu Studio v01.05.00.61?
What if you change walls from 2 to 4?
What if you change orientation (rotate it along X-axis and try Y-axis even though you won't actually print it that way.
Another option I can think of is to set the model to 100% infill (assuming is slices correctly this way) then you can add modifier blocks at different heights/positions. You can then set the infill on the modifiers (overrides the global infill setting) and see if the model slices differently. You can possibly set infill to 0 on the sections that are slicing correctly but may 15% or some other setting in the middle might cause it to slice correctly.

Quoted from Rnlo:

I designed a mount for mine that uses the existing screw that mounts the tank to that model base and then a regular screw on the plastics, works great and can’t even see it. Then I made this fire that slips into the front and uses the existing lights, no additional wiring needed.[quoted image]

Quoted from Rnlo:

So how about this?
I just rode in the Pan Mass Challenge this weekend, 162 miles in 2 days to raise money for the Dana Farber Cancer Institute. The ride is over but the fundraising is the important part and that continues through September.
If you make a tax deductible donation of $100 or more, I’ll send you some dragon tank fire and a tank mount as a thank you(or a fridge magnet that says eff cancer if you’d rather that).
Does that sound fair?
Here’s the link to my fundraising page
https://profile.pmc.org/NA0057
Just add a note to your donation, or PM me to let me know what you’d like me to send as a thank you.
This is what the mount looks like
[quoted image]

Quoted from king_pin:

Did you print in brown and just add the twine to the print? No painting?