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I am thinking of jumping into making some 3D mods and am a bit intimidated. Don’t want to buy any software, but see just how hard it really is first. If I cross the software chasm, I will pickup a 3D printer, but I want to learn some EASY software first.
Any recommendation on software to give this a go?
Quoted from mikepmcs:There's nothing to buy except the printer and filament. Very functional and easy to learn software is completely free to use.
I suggest a creality ender 3 PRO or the newest ender 3 variant. I know there are some new ones out but I bought an ender 3 PRO and have never had an issue. I've never put upgrades on it and i've learned a ton when little things go wrong or whatever. It doesn't have the overheat or problem I've seen others talking about here. Its an updated version that has thermal protection. Spend the time building it correctly when you receive it and you'd be surprised how good it works.
Don't go down a rabbit hole getting sucked in to upgrades and adding this or that or changing extruders to direct drive and on and on and on. You don't need any of it. Learn your Ender 3 Pro or Ender 3 V2 and when you're ready to move up and on the Prusa will be waiting.
1.Design in tinkercad. Youtube videos are everywhere and easy to follow.
2.Export/save design as an .stl file to your computer.
3.Open .stl in a slicer program. CURA is the one I use and it's free and simple to learn. Once again youtube. Lots of easy to follow mainstream streamers out there.
4. Once you "slice" the program export it to your 3d folder you created and it will be in g code format. Transfer that to a micro sd (usb adapter is what I use for this) and plug it in your printer and hit print. If your usb adapter/micro sd is installed in your usb port then CURA will automatically ask you if you want to export it to the card when you slice it.
Everyone wants a Prusa including me but they are very expensive and if you lose interest or figure it's not for you, you're out over $1000.
I'll eventually get a prusa if I continue to find use but reality is my Ender 3 Pro is doing everything I need it to do right now.
You can get in to 3d printing for under $250 no problem and if it doesn't work out you can get rid of it and get at least 85% of your money back selling it.
Any questions and everyone on this thread will be happy to answer or point you in the right direction.
also... sites like Thingiverse and myminifactory or stl finder etc... You can find anything you want.
Here's some examples of a couple things I printed without doing a thing except tweaking settings in the cura slicer. Spouse wanted some beach type theme things to go on a radiator cover/case I made. This was with zero to a week of 3d printing experience. Basically plug and play.
All free on thingiverse and myminifactory. Literally downloaded and put in Cura just to adjust my settings and exported to card and then printed. One took like 56 hours I remember. Patience and attention to detail is all you need for 3d printing.
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You all have been great! (I didn't even realize the slicer step or the choices to be made there either). I think I will spend some quality time with TinkerCad this weekend, and if I get the hang of it, will set my sights on getting the ender 3 pro printer to start off. But first, I start playing with TinkerCad...
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:I haven't used this yet but I use Smooth On's other products for reproducing parts using silicone molds and casting resins. XTC-3D is their two-part product for smoothing and finishing 3D prints and can be colored...
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/
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I tried XTC-3D for another situation where I had rough-ish surfaces and it really takes multiple layers to see any significant smoothing effect. It's essentially a resin epoxy. A few heavy coats and it REDUCES the smaller layer lines, but I was never able to get it to be 100% smooth like a sanding approach yields. Obviously your mileage may vary and it has alot to do with the kind of detail in the piece itself.
Bottom line: No easy way out... 8-)
Quoted from MightyGrave:hey guys,
hope you can help me...
I'm looking for a Bracket to Mounting the Pingulp (picure). I would Print it 3D but I don't have a file and I'm not good enough to design me a new one, cause I have problem with the angle.
Would be cool if we can find a design and share it with all
Thank you[quoted image]
The closest I found is a cup colder with integral bracket.
Quoted from Pinbub:How do I go about paying someone to 3D print Pinball parts for me? I know I can probably pay someone locally to do it who isn't into Pinball and they'd do a one off and probably never make another unless it was for me. I figure if I can pay a pinsider to do one they can save the file and print and sell more to others. Can I pay someone here to print me a part? I'm looking for a drop target for an allied leisure cocktail pin. I know there are other people looking for these and if someone would print the plastic pop bumper rings apparently people need those as well. Please message me if you offer printing services or can recommend a Pinball enthusiaist who does. I can supply a sample of the part I need.
You are asking two things:
1. Someone needs to design a part as a 3D model
2. Someone needs to print a part from a 3D model
The first question is tougher as designing ANY part is time consuming. You'll need to find someone with time on their hands, or someone with the same need for the same part. They need to create the 3D model, with exact dimensions, which takes a fair bit of time and usually requires access to the original part to get it right. Good that you have an old one to get the designer started. They essentially are copying the physical part into a 3D model with some kind of CAD 3D drawing tool. My guess is several hours to copy a simple part, or longer for one with lots of detail.
For the second question, try https://craftcloud3d.com/
Once you have the 3D model, it's easy to print it. Today, many 3D printing shops are low cost, and from time to time have free shipping. It's basically a clearing house for 3D printing shops. I have used a few times with great results. You can choose the color, material and which location you want it printed from. (hint: consider choosing one close to you)
Quoted from BowlingJim:Picked this up off Facebook yesterday for $60 with 4 rolls of PLA+. I think I did pretty good for my first printer. If I like it I am going to buy a good one.
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The rolls of material alone are worth the > $60!! You did good, even if the printer is dead!
Just throwing an old idea out to the 3D print world for comment.... About 6 years ago, a guy mocked-up a volume control bracket that could be used with the existing coin door reject buttons to raise and lower the volume. The electrical part is easy, and there is already an option available that installs a rocker into the Tourney button fuller below the Start button, but a coin-door bracket would be perhaps even more elegant. I'm not very good drawing up a 3D part, but wanted to throw the idea out and see if it caught anyone's attention. (Or maybe it's just me.... 8-)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/volume-control-using-coin-reject-buttons
I ran into the king_pin 3D models for Godzilla for the mechagodzilla spinner. It's a two piece set, Left and right, with an STL file for each. The finished/painted piece can be found ready to go in the pinside marketplace, but if you have the time and energy to get it printed and painted, have at it!
https://thangs.com/search/godzilla%20pinball?scope=all
And while I was at it, I found a set of 3D files (for private use only) by toyotaboy on Thingiverse for a building on the left side of the backwall:
Quoted from vestaviascott:The badge holder (back plate) is on thingaverse and printables. I'm looking for the placard itself. The one that appears on the Godzilla LE that the badge holder is made to hold. It could be a sticker or decal, I'm not certain. I think it would be cool as a two color print tho. I did already print out the badge holder, its great.
Has anyone run across an STL for the Mothra replacement on a Godzilla machine? Basically a 4 inch wide, mostly flat version that will directly replace the flat plastic shipped by stern. It’s beyond my drawing knowledge at this point.
I keep seeing the Ender-3 S1 on sale somewhere for $250 or so. Would I regret buying it for these kind of pin mod projects?
Quoted from jrcmlc:They are sent. It is what it is.
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Amazing project you took on, amazing results, true passion to help out on this one!!!
Hats off to you!
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