Before I start reinveinting the wheel, anyone has designed a WPC speaker adapter to use identical speaker replacements on both sides of the DMD (I'm thinking of upgrading my CFTBL) ?

CFTBL is a pre-DCS Williams, so it has two different speakers, one 5" midrange on the left, and one 3" tweeter on the right. Most replacement speakers for pinball machines are 5" in size and provide an adapter plate to reuse the existing mounting holes for the right speaker. That's what I'm trying to find here. Although I'll probably end up redesigning one if I can't find it.

Led strips would be more difficult to add, because the right hole for units with a wooden speaker panel is smaller in size. It's hidden behind the grill, but it's there nonetheless, and of course would require a smaller led ring compared to the left one.

Alternative is to widen the opening

More details here:
http://dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html
and here
http://dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_wooden_display_panel.html

Anyone would have a 3d model for an mta-156 and mta-100 crimping tool?

There's one in thingiverde, but it requires a vise, not really practical in most case.

Thanks

Here's what I use for filtering :
https://www.alveo3d.com/en/homepage/

(I'm not associated to them in any way)

They have both a add-on kit or a complete enclosure (on pre-order). Unfortunately the enclosure does not accommodate my CR10S

Good morning,

Anyone has a pointer to how to remix an existing STL ? I'm trying to mod a Tron lightcycle STL to "hollow" it at key locations, but I must admit Meshmixer is not the easiest in that respect.

PM me if you have some skills in that respect, goal is to build an alternative (and more fancy) Tron Lightcycle mod, open source, I can work on the HW/SW side of things (switch detection and triggers), would "just" need the 3D model.

Thank you, unfortunately unless I'm mistaken these are still STL files. I can import an STL in Fusion360 (which is the tool I use), but the result is hard to modify (well, to me at least).

I'm not an expert on Meshmixer, and from what I can see it can perform boolean operations, but it has no creation tool that I could find, so I need to create the object in Fusion, export it to STL, import it to Meshmixer along with the original model, and then scale and "substract". Not very practical...

Anyway, I'll try to work my way around that, but if anyone has any guidance, help would be appreciated

Regards

Ah thanks, I did not know that Tinkercad had that capability, I'll look it up.

Regards

I'm not sure I understand, why would you go to Shapeway if you have a resin printer? There are some ABS-like resin out there, and accuracy is super good with a resin, did I miss something?

Regards

For reference:
https://www.bcn3d.com/strongest-3d-printing-materials-impact-fatigue-resistant-filaments/

Details: " In fact, parts printed with tough resin can have a tensile strength of 55.7 MPa and a 2.7-GPa modulus of elasticity. "

Although I do not know what strength can achieve Shapeways print, it's worthwhile considering IMO (bottle is not that expensive)

Regards

You need to go on Swinks website, then Documentation, there is a DIY section with a specific complete manual for the snackbar mod. You will need however to order through Shapeways the various parts, Swinks is not releasing the STL files.

I was looking into that, which setup did you use (sw, caméra, etc)?

Cheers

That's actually cool, I was thinking of something similar, just wondering how to correct the distortion to get a flat field view in real time

If you ever want to print ABS (and if you do... exhaust ventilation is a MUST !! And add a filter as well), the enclosure is required since you need to keep ambiant temperature high.

Sincerely, I believe it's a mistake. There are dozens of scientific papers out there (as in real scientific papers, not website type analysis) that show that ABS 3d printing produces ten times as many nano particles than PLA (which is already bad in itself). Plus the Nano particles are smaller.

When you print within an enclosure, all nano particles are floating in the enclosure. When you remove the enclosure, they scatter in the neighboring environment. Some stick to surfaces, but it's fair to say in any case that the amount of particles floating in the air will increase significantly the likelihood of inhaling those particles.

And you really really don't want that. We lack data and time to determine whether this is rally harmful, but all studies on Nano particles effect point toward serious risks

Unless you don't care about long term effect.

Remember asbestos? Took several dozen years to realize it's disastrous side effects.

You are correct, by ventilation I mean exhaust tobthe outside, ideally with a filter (otherwise we basically pollute the outside)

There are also filters designed to collect particles within the enclosure itself (essentially a closed loop air circulator)

The fine film is indeed a neat idea, what do you use?

And actually that's a neat idea, I was thinking about that, would this apply to a Meanwell PSU ? When we add ledstrip (such as using Pinduino), amp requirement is through the roof (60mA per led, that adds up quickly), and these damn Meanwell PSU tend to be noisy. I just don't know if fan control is driven by temperature, or by amperage load on the PSU. If driven by temperature, that design type would be a nice adder to any Meanwell PSU.

If you have an enclosure, you can try printing in ABS then smooth using acetone vapor.

Happy with your snapmaker? Considering taking the plunge for the laser engraver and cnc cutter, but hard to justify the price just for these two functions, as I already have a CR10S. Can't figure out if the 3d printer part is better than my CR10S to justify upgrading and swapping

Has anyone designed a holder for flipper coil fans, for games like LOTR for ex?

Regards

Anyone would have designed a holder for small size fans to cool the coils (especially useful for those pinball machines where the flipper coils get hot and lose in power) ?

Cheers

If you don't mind the risk of a changing licence term, Fusion 360 from autodesk is quite good, lot of functionalities. It's free for personal usage (reason I'm stating 'risk of changing licence terms' is because Autodesk reduced the capabilities, especially import/export of the free version, which is a pita)

On a sidenote, is there a good ressource for a 'remix' workflow?

I find that importing an STL into a CAD program results into a very dense mesh, which is really not practical to use for the purpose of making modifications, especially with regards to snapping to a vertex.

I used Meshmixer, at least I can perform boolean operations on the mesh, but I wish there was a simpler process

Good afternoon everyone

Would anyone have designed an adapter plate for spike 2 4" (pro and premium) to 5.5" speaker (LE)?

These adapter plates are super expensive and I don't see why it could not be printed

Cheers

Thanks, but I'm a DIY kind of guy. Plus I live in Europe, so shipment and tax will put the whole kit way higher than what I'd like.

I also have access to metal part manufacturing if needs be, although if I can I'd prefer the 3d printing route. I'll see how I can design one for my purpose.

What is the best technique people are using to minimize the layers being visible in a print (besides post processing, ie acetone vapor for ABS or sanding for PLA)?

Regards

TSD uses AI to detect failed print, can you please elaborate? I'm not sure I've heard of this TSD acronym or capability before (which is a bummer, given that I work in AI...)

Just found it. A classic Yolo object detection DNN applied to 3d printing, nice.

The beauty is that they get the source data from the users, so you actually pay to get the capability, and they use the data you provide to improve the model, very neat development model. OK, they're not the first, Tesla did it as well, but still...

Thanks for the pointer, one learns every day

Is there a big difference in quality between 4" and 5.25" with the Pyle speakers? Going from one to the other on a premium force you to change the metal holder as well

Regards

If you use Cura, there is an option for 'tree support'. Essentially removes vertical support in favor of 'tree branches' that are along the body with very light attach points. Much much better, lower amount of plastic, easier to remove

Very cool, thanks !

Please find below a link to a speaker ring adapter.

Designed for Spike 2 Pro/Premium, to fit JBL 4020 superb coax speakers (they really look cool...)
Fusion360 file provided if you want to play around with it and fit other speaker size

You need M3 nuts and screws to assemble the speaker to the adapter, which then slide in place with the existing screws of the original speaker mounting mechanism

Note that there is a groove where you can fit a ledstrip, which is covered by a thin 1mm thick wall, to diffuse light and reduce spot effect of leds

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5318717

20220225_232000 (Medium) (resized).jpg

20220225_232043 (Medium) (resized).jpg

20220226_133452 (Medium) (resized).jpg

There are a few opening (not shown on the picture). You'll see better on the 3D model

Untitled (resized).png

Pictures are deceptive, it does not crush the foam. At least on my print, but I admit it's borderline. You can play around with the fusion file, all diameters can be changed in the parameters section. Just remember to adjust all other diameters accordingly (maybe I should update with a parametric design)

That's correct

Well... can you check if your hotend fan is working properly ?

If it does not, the metal body temperature of the hotend will slowly increase, resulting into the plastic melting right at the entrance of the hotend. This means that your extruder will never be able to push the plastic any further.

the only place in the hotend where the plastic is supposed to melt is in the nozzle itself.

that's neat, trying to figure out a good translation in french to buy one, would you have an Amazon.com link so I can see how it's called in english ?

Has anyone experimented with resin printing and is knowledgeable about various resin types ?

I have an Elegoo Mars printer, and wanted to print some models (courtesy of Pinworld, many thanks to them for posting their model on Thingiverse) that would benefit of being translucent. I can print it using a regular FDM printer, white PLA, and I know it will work, however I'm not a big fan of the layer effect induced by FDM printing for models that will be on the playfield.

I therefore kind of wonder if I can replicate the same behaviour as white PLA with regards to translucency using white resin, and if so which one ? I have grey ABS like resin, which is not suited, but before going out a buying a bottle of resin, I would welcome some feedbacks

Cheers

I was looking to do that. Problem is that clear translucent resin tend to yellow under UV, at least the one I have (Elegoo again).

Many thanks to all who commented, that gave me some pointers with regards to resin type

This is brilliant.

On another topic, has anyone designed a centering bracket for pop bumper socket (WPC and Stern) ?

Are you using the integrated fan (which is rated at 5V) ?

Also, wouldn't it be better to use a model with the fan sitting on top, like this one:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002806098212.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.72ad378de2sgyd&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra

Regards

I have a rather nice model of "The Mandalorian" ship, taken from Thingiverse, printed as multiple parts (model here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5267987)

I printed it using resin, scaling it down at 45% to fit my Elegoo Mars, and details are still quite good.

However, some parts (especially the two "wing-like" portion at the front) have a big common surface, and of course because of shrinkage and warping, there's a tiny gap when assembling them (I did not glue them yet, just tested the fit), plus you see the assembly line

So what would be your recommendation to assemble them and remove the unavoidable gap that will appear, and ideally also remove the assembly line ?

Regards

Just love Open source and DIY

I replaced the controller board of my trusty CR10S with a Bigtreetech board. I had to compile Marlin, took me a while to adjust all options correctly, but it now all works fine. The new stepper motor driver on this board are completely silent, I only hear the fan noise now.

But what's even more fun... The board has a small ESP32 based board, with Wifi. I compiled the appropriate firmware to enable wifi communication and serial communication with the controller board.

I installed Octoprint in a docker container running in a small ARM system which I use for other purposes (I could install it in my NAS for that matter), installed a plugin which allows Octoprint to communicate over a virtual serial connection over TCP/IP, and voila, I can now send directly from Cura to Octoprint over network, which can send gcode commands to the ESP32 over Wifi, which in turns communicate with the controller board. No need for a RPI connected to the printer anymore.

I tested for two 4 hours print, no issue. Now need to test with a longer print

Slightly off topic, I know.

Well that's odd

I just did it on several occasions, and tested it again right now just to be sure.

I'm using the export command from a flattened metal sheet design, it did offer me the DXF option, see attached screen below

However what is very odd is that I do have a message at the bottom, stating that IGES,SAT,DWG and DXF export capabilities are part of a subscription. But I don't have one, so...

pasted_image (resized).png

That's the odd situation. I'm using the free version. Never paid for it, the licence clearly states "free for personal usage", but... I get access to export functions which are theoretically locked. I can even export to DWG. Go figure. Guess I'm lucky.

Funny, because my Fusion360 version IS updated (to the latest one 2.0.13168).

Guess that for some reason entitlement on my account is enabled for DXF/DWG. I won't complain

Very nice. I would really love some pointer on what tools to use and tutorials to create this. I can easily design mechanical parts, but wood/stone/living stuff is completely beyond my reach right now

I remember somebody mentioning a 3D printer build plate that had a texture very similar to the black powder coat texture on the coin door, so that printing parts (and paint them black) would look very similar, but I can't find the reference, any pointer ?

Thanks

Thanks for the advice

Regards

Super long review of the Bambu lab

Given that I did not get a very high discount when pledging, I'm tempted to just cancel and buy retail once the quirks are ironed out

I sense a mod in design

Curious though, why not simply drive the servo through a simple arduino GPIO ?

On the coil strategy, I strongly advise to use an opto, and not a voltage divider. That way you have total isolation, and no risk of frying the Arduino.
Also, when a coil activate, the current draw is so high that the capacitor just after the rectifier gets discharged very quickly, so the coil voltage actually drops significantly (I have scope measurements for this somewhere), which means you will likely go below TTL level on the input if you're using a voltage divider, thus triggering the Arduino into thinking voltage is off. This does not last for more than a few ms (about 20ms on top of my head), but that could induce unwanted effects.

Using an opto, as long as coil voltage is higher than the minimum opto threshold, you will always get a solid output from the opto into the arduino

Otherwise, SW wise, what you're looking for is equivalent to a debouncer: here's a debouncer code, you can probably expand by using three signal read and adjust duration based on light strobe frequency: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/BuiltInExamples/Debounce

Looking good indeed. May I know the model you used? A friend downloaded one from thingiverse, but it did not fit his Mandalorian Pro

Cheers

Nice to see the results. I must say I cancelled my pledge because the price delta if you were not a super early bird was not significant (250 dollars), and there was a lot of unknown with regards to warranty for KS units and how to deal with shipment back to factory from Europe in case of defect. I much prefer to buy through a local reseller when they have one (which hopefully they will)

Just realized I never posted here this mod I designed a few months ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-disc-mod-open-source

Specifically 3D model for the ledring holder below the Tron disc is here (along with Arduino code):
https://github.com/Ashram56/Tron-Pinball-Disc-Mod

Strongly recommend to use Pinduino to drive the ledring

Yes the ino file is the arduino code

I also have a PCB design which I prototyped on a breadboard, works fine for that purpose, but a cleaner design might be useful (and smaller....). My prototype uses a Wemos, while the PCB design I did is for the seedstudio xiao

Just to note that if you intend to build mods, printing time and painting are the most critical. High quality mods are very long to print to increase quality, and even longer to paint. We're talking about a few hours of print usually.

If the mods are 'hidden' (like my Tron disc mod, for which only the led ring is visible, the 3d print is just a mount), then indeed you can reduce print time (to a certain extent)

Enclosure is also pretty much required because of the Nano particles created by ABS printing in my opinion.

Also, could never get bed adhesion with ABS at ambient temperature anyway

Has anyone used transparent resin to print translucent targets, can it withstand the abuse?

I have a feeling the answer will be a resounding NO....

Nice,

Would love to see results at low speed, with regards to quality (layering, etc).

Also, can you post a close up of benchy?

Cheers

Am I being unreasonable....

I received my Saturn 2 two weeks ago, and literally yesterday my Elegoo Jupiter.... This one is massive...

Still have to test the high resolution resin to determine if the Saturn 2 is indeed better resolution.

Next, a Bambu when it's available in retail through a local reseller (I did not back the KS because the cost delta was minimal, and there was no indication of how warranty would be managed for KS units)

Absolutely correct. I have both (resin and fdm), and to each their use. 2Niro mods (star wars light Saber) are resin printed because he needs top quality. Likewise, I'll use resin printing for anything cosmetic. But mechanical parts, or even prototyping, go for FDM

I was going to take a look at your design to assess how different my speaker mounting holes are compared to yours.

Otherwise, if you used Fusion, it's probably a simple matter of adjusting in the sketch the hole position

Been there

Now I always end up sketching everything on a single sketch if possible, then extrude. For example, the holes in my adapter design are defined by the intersection of a circle and a line. That way I can adjust easily the circle diameter to reflect the mounting point of a speaker. I tend to avoid complex shapes in order precisely to avoid situations where the function is messed up because the construction algorithm can't figure out the operation

I've seen cases however where for some reason the primitives are not defined properly by Fusion so when I adjust it screws up (3 points rectangle comes to mind)

Well the K40 while on paper seems great does require a ton of tweaks and change. Yes it has an enclosure and a CO2 laser, but pretty much everything else need to be tweaked. Cooling, exhaust, alignement is a bitch, no bed z height adjustment, etc... It's not even up and running for me as I had to realign the gantry, fix the exhaust, had a few safety measures (analog power meter instead of digital which is crap), and now I need to align the laser. In retrospect, I should have cashed out a little bit more.

The snapmaker serie seems a good option, except that their 10w laser is a laser diode, so it can't cut through acrylic, and I'm really not comfortable with their enclosure filtering the laser wavelength. I do have one though, but I'm really super cautious around it. It's great for wood engraving and cutting though.

Support was my number one reason for cancelling my Kickstarter funding. They never clearly stated how was warranty applied, especially with regards to shipping cost

Here's the question I sent to their service department:

"
What is unclear is whether shipment costs are covered when buying through your own webstore, I quote your terms:

" And you may have to burden shipping costs for return, repair, or replacement of product(s) depending on Bambu Lab's aftersales policies in your local area. "

"

and their response

"... we will take it case by case "

Given the weight of the machine, this is a rather vague statement, if I have to pay 200 euros for shipping cost in case of a failure under warranty, I would be really unhappy. And their lack of response is not really encouraging

I really want to jump on the X1C, but seriously, they need to up their country coverage with regards to service (reseller, distributors, etc)

Good morning 3D modeling experts !

I've been using Fusion to create small custom mechanical parts for a while, but I'd like to perform a remix of an existing model which is only provided as an STL. Nothing fancy, need to create channels for wires and "holes" for electronic components, etc... But I must say I'm a little bit at a loss on how to approach that.

I tried Meshmixer, seems some of the functions are now integrated within Fusion 360, but what are 3D remix experts using out there for more complicated modifications ?

Cheers !