DAMN! If I can get these 45 hour prints down to 24 - that saves me a lot of headache. I've not printed a lot of these huge models before, so getting the print supports right is a challenge, and it's really frustrating when they fail. I've done some test prints at 25% size but they don't always tell the whole story.

Please post when you are able to do a comparison. If any of the models are open source and you can provide links, I'd be happy to generate GL code in Bambu Studio with your desired settings.

I recently got an X1C and i can't get it to print PETG very well.

What settings are you guys/gals using to print PETG?

I'm using the high temp plate ( scuffed with red scotch brite), Generic PEtg setting, I also tried to mimic the Settigns i use on my prusa. No luck.

Thanks,
Bob

This forum is what got me introduced to Bambu Lab, and last week I pulled the trigger and bought the X1C with AMS. I'm already thinking about adding another AMS. This thing is amazing, incredibly fast, and just freaking works.

Prior to this, I've been using my Ender 3v2 that I kept upgrading (BLTouch, Sprite Pro extruder, Dual Z axis, "professional" firmware, octoprint, etc.) I finally have it fairly dialed in for prints, but there's always something that needs tweaking to keep it running well. I probably could have bought a P1P for all that I've invested in the Ender.

Yes, I'm only a week in, but I've printed so much more with the X1C in that week than I've printed with the Ender in a month. If you're on the fence, my advice is to just do it.

While people including myself to some degree have gotten PETG to print well on the X1 it’s really tough which is likely why Bambu doesn’t even sell it. PETG is becoming less relevant with PLA+, ASA and others which have high heat tolerance and aren’t so sticky. I’ve moved on from it. The key is slowing it down. Others may have better, more specific details or profiles to share.

What kinds of issues are you guys having with PETG? First layer adhesion issues or warpage or all of the above? I printed some larger PETG stuff as an experiment and saw kinda crazy warpage on long thin parts but had good adhesion to the textured plate.

I had some first layer adhesion problems so i went to the high temp smooth plate and scuffed it with the scotch-brite, That got rid of first layer problems.

I'm having top layer problems, Bridging seems poor too.

The photos show the x1c with the generic PETG settings and .16mm Layer height in the middle. The part is oriented on the plate as in the first photo.

Warpage is not a problem.

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Woooo lordy, PETG gotta ya stumped? Head over here: https://www.printables.com/model/394395-bambu-studio-orcaslicer-softfever-profiles-for-x1-

Nice config files for Soft Fever's Orca slicer, which is way better than Bambu Studio.

PETG needs heat, and needs to be dialed in, which is easy to throw out there.

Try printing by Object to avoid bridging problems, may have better luck that way with multiple pieces on the build plate.

These were just tests with a single object on the plate:

Yeah I got this thing, ran thru a bunch of PLA preset samples and was like WOW! Then said OK let's run some real parts in PETG and well.....ouch

I'll try the orca slicer and settings thanks!

Look at the bridging on the PLA though! impressive

Similar issues to what Bob posted above. That all said I don't really need to print PETG as there are better alternatives out there. I do have a few rolls of it laying around but not enough to worry about dialing it in further than I already have.

Yes the PLA might be my fallback. Also the bambu works slightly better now that i have moved it from my garage to my shop. Before that it made balls of hair.

I like that the Bambu let's you choose the bridging direction. I have to turn the part on the plate to get it right on the prusa. (can't find the setting)

Then again i really have not had to think about much on the prusa just load prusament and run parts. Remove parts, scuff plate and repeat. Sometimes clean with alcohol.

I’m not at a computer with PrusaSlicer, otherwise I’d list the exact setting, but it’s there (bridging angle?). I can guarantee it’s there since BambuStudio is just a fork of PrusaSlicer, so they have pretty comparable feature sets. If anything, PrusaSlicer is more capable since Bambu is running a slightly older version of the PrusaSlicer.

Now I hear great things about OrcaSlicer, but I have yet to try it out.

Yes, you can set bridging angle on both Prusa Slicer & Bambu Studio, and I've adjusted this setting in a variety of my prints.

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Also, I've printed 4 or 5 different PETG filaments (Prusament and some generic brand I have) and have had perfect results. I use the default PETG filament settings and the hot temp plate (which I do wash with soap and water on occasion). I've also used the textured plate with success.

Has anyone tried printing playfield hole protectors in TPU? With cliffy’s hard to get in a reasonable time I was thinking about printing up protectors for higher wear areas on my stranger things (4 bank drop target hole and saucer hole). Thoughts?

Doesn’t seem likely you could get one that needed to be so thin as to avoid disrupting gameplay to hold up

Someone is actually making these out of TPU on this site I think for the same reason. I think they work fairly well.

I wonder how thick they are

I’m going to experiment tomorrow and see if I can model and print a simple insert for the drop target bank. I will try a few thicknesses, but even if it gets beat up over time, I’m ok with replacing it periodically. I’ll let everyone know how it goes.

First I heard of the Bridge Angle settings. Looks like Cura also has that option, looking forward to giving it a try.

That seems like it would work fine - I wonder what infill% you need though? The gyroid infill pattern is surprisingly strong, and as long as you print the target flat on the bed you won’t have to worry about layer separation

Made this for my STTNG out of PLA. I put a coat of XTC-3D on it, painted it, then a couple coats of clear gloss poly.

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Eyeamred,
That helped a lot. Also watching what actually is going on helped too. The problem still persisted a bit with new profiles. The bridging is not the problem, It bridges nicely even if you foul up and bridge the long way it still bridges nicely.

The problem was the next layer after bridging at 50mm/s jumps right to 200mm/s. this just creates a bunch of balled up material that then telegraphs through to the top, and also pushes the bridging downward. Changing the internal fill to 75mm/s fixed my problems ( i'm sure switching to the new profiles helped a ton too)

I still need to play around a bit, but things are much improved.

Thanks All!

I know at least one person was 3d printing protectors for Rush. I can't say how well they work though.

A friend has the NinjaCamp TPU protector and says it works great. I believe they have a pinside shop.

Anyone around the Milwaukee WI have the ability to 3d scan three small models? Non pinball related, but something I'd like to preserve and print for a present for my wife. Due to the delicate nature of the items, I won't ship them; but don't mind a drive of a few hours if needed.

I'm also not sure, since I'm new to scanning and printing, if models once scanned can be "cleaned up"? As in small imperfections on the models removed before printing?

If anyone is able to help, feel free to drop me a message and we can work something out for a time and payment if needed.

If there is someone that can do this, I'd drive up there to have it done, I have 9, yes 9, clay paw prints from dead dogs that I'd like to scan and print so we can put them in some kind of....I dunno artsy thing or something but the point is I'm terrified of breaking the originals.

I'll keep you posted if I find a resource. I tried calling one or two places locally so far. I might have one lead but really just want these done sooner than later so the plaster molds don't get any worse; assuming they are actually at all.

If you have a modern iphone or ipad, you can scan them yourself. If you're an android person like me, photogrammetry. If you can record a video around the object (tilted down, straight, tilted up), and willing to upload them somewhere I've been having pretty good luck extracting frames from video and getting a 3d object.

Received my 2nd bambu p1p today. They are apparently not only including the lightbar and camera, but it comes pre-installed. they are also including a bottle of bed adhesive. No free side cooling fan though. Don't see it as an available accessory to purchase, but I'm sure if I really wanted to add it I can source one.

Wow, this thread is great. Attached are some pics of a lightsaber bracket and the respective mod. I have two other lightsabers but need 2 brackets. Does anyone have a file that may be similar to this black bracket/holder? Thx

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I could use two of those brackets.

How exactly are you doing this with android? Can you give a reasonable step by step? Being able to print copies of these paw prints would be an amazing gift to my wife and relief to me as well.

I heard on the android it is only the s21 you can scan with? Is this true,I would like to have this feature?

Are you able, err...is it possible to do color changes real time and on the fly with the AMS setup from Bambu removing any manual input from it? IE:
It'll change colors on it's own?

Not processing on android, taking frames from video taken on android (4k video is preferred) and processing on a PC

I don't have one, but I believe opening an STL file in windows 10 the default viewer lets you paint on it.

Are there others who prototype like this?
0.6mm print to see if the holes fit before I build the model up..

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Yes, I do that exact thing. Dial in the size/fit with a test file that’s just a few layers. I’m in the middle of an Addams Family wall-hanger project and am 3D printing custom sculpts all over the playfield.

“That’s the ticket Thing!”

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Yeah I do the same. I'll cut off anything that is not relevant to fitment using my slicer and print it very thin just so I can test fit things. It always takes me a few tries to get dimensions right so this saves a lot of time and filament.

BTW I'm very interested in what you're designing here. I have the Lior mods backboard for my IMDN but I'm still interested to see what you're working on.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question but yes, once you set up your print in the slicer (Bambu Studio, Orca, etc) the AMS and the printer handle the filament change on the fly, with zero attention required from the user. It's literally fire and forget. You can "paint" colors, you can set colors by layer height, etc. It's super super handy and easy.

That's exactly what I was asking. We will be ordering a new bambu with ams I'm almost certain. Thanks.

I printed this 4-color Snorlax on my X1C. Sent the job to the printer and went and removed it when it was complete. Fully automated. The "5 o clock shadow" around the black portions that define his eyes and smile are because I was playing around with purge volumes when changing colors and went a little too far.

The Bambu uses a lot of extra filament doing these types of projects and it adds substantial time as sometimes there are multiple color changs/purges per layer, but the results are pretty darn good, and again run fully unattended.
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Being new to 3D printing I am finding it fun to print random stuff. Lol. Once I get my Sonic pad to work without disconnecting I will try and print the EHOH gargoyle mod for the legs.

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So, Prusa owners -

I just had to replace my entire hotend due to a ridiculous filament disaster - I am now having the worst underextruding issue ever. I can't figure it out - I've recalibrated several times, but not enough filament is coming out in order to stick on the bed. Cleaned the bed 100 times, glue stick on the bed, printed flawlessly before this issue.

I re-did the PINDA settings, re-tested the thermistor (had to replace that too). replaced heating element. This was an issue before I replaced the hotend (and partly the reason I did so), but I can't figure out why it's not threading enough filament through. How do I determine where there's a block/feed issue? I've done a couple cold pulls. Tried different filament too

Are you sure it's underextruding or are you just having issues with the first layer? The last two times I changed my hot end on my Prusa I had to significantly increase the live z adjust to get it to stick. I was going crazy like you trying to figure out why the first layer wouldn't go down but when I printed a test pattern and just kept adjusting the live Z adjust it ended up working out but I had to increase the value a lot more than I expected.

Good thought - I am pretty sure it’s underextruding. But to your point, I decreased the Z adjustment to -1.25 or so (WAY lower than recommended), and while it didn’t scratch the plate which I expected, it made no discernible difference in the first layer adhesion.

When you did the cold pulls, did you also try taking the nozzle completely off to check for any material stuck in there?

I had to use a torch on the inside of the nozzle once to just completely remove some crud that kept causing under extrusion.. but then, if there is a clog, you'll probably hear the extruder skipping as it can't push the expected filament through.

If you just push the filament through manually with it at a higher loading temperature, can you get a decent flow? Perhaps there was some damage on the extruder or it became worn when the filament was jammed so it is not able to push it through as effectively?

So everything past the extruder is new? Or are there some old parts? Any chance you have a way to measure the nozzle temperature? If the thermistor is the wrong value, then the heater might be at the wrong temperature

I was going to suggest the exact same thing...bump it up 30-50C.

Sounds like my issue with my mk3, it imploded on itself and took a while to get it working right afterwards. Mine was Z height + new hotend.