Looking for someone to 3D print a ramp for a Toy Story Duke Kaboom topper I'm working on for my Toy Story 4 LE pinball machine. I would like it to be about 14 inches long 6 inches tall at the top of ramp and 3/4 inches tall and bottom of ramp.I can send a sketch or photo of what I'm thinking if anyone is game . Thanks Tim

Here is another version i just came up with. 3D printing the SUZO-Happ part is never going to be strong enough ( the post Tinnerman idea only works for a molded part). This part has the same geometry and Mounting holes as the Suzo-Happ Part, but uses a 2-56 screw into a .060" (1.5mm) hole. You probably have access to 2mm Screws and may need to open the holes. It ried to leave enough clearance for PF mounting screws and a Nutdriver.

Either way let me know if you need anything adjusted. I'll PM the parts to you. If that fails, pm me you email address.

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Check out fiverr.com and similar sites, you can get things modeled to your spec.

I unboxed my Bambu X1 Carbon with AMS last night. All I can say so far is holy cow this printer is awesome.
I was using a voxelab aquila x2 before.

Leeoneil,
It seems to work ok Strength wise, If i had a fault with it it is that the switch does not come up high enough (into the PF) this is because i made the base at .093 vs the original .060" I'll send you a revised part shortly.

Bob

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That's bigger than most of us will be able to print in a single model (would have to design in multiple pieces that glue together). There are at least a couple here that have large format printers, but they would need to respond.

This thing is amazing, my only regret is I waited this long to get one.

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Mine is delayed until Tuesday. Can’t wait!

This awesome, thank you thank you thank you !
It's working perfectly (i used your first version and twist a little bit the wire to fit).
I will print your new version to have a perfect piece.

Thank's for your work and for sharing the file, it helped me a lot !

In case anyone missed the email. (I found mine somewhere other than my inbox like promo or some stuff)
Bambu Labs has their own silk pla.
Here's the link to the us store.
https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/pla-silk
r/
Mike

Saw that. Interesting that they've baked in some profile settings into the RFID tag that are beneficial to the material profile making it even more reliable to get quality prints.

I’m have an issue on Bambu slicer with a file that works fine in Cura and guidance would be appreciated. First image is the imported file. 2nd image is after I slice it. With supports or no supports part of the file goes missing after slicing.

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Just to get the ball rolling, I'll start with....
Are the walls thinner than the extrusion width?

Here are my settings

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Just a comment. I usually either use 3D Gloop which I posted about before that fuses by melting. My other go to was gorilla glue super glue. I switched from Gorilla to DAP Rapid Fuse, available at HomeDepot/Lowes. It bonds extremely quickly, even on joints that are under flexible stress, they bind in about 10 seconds where gorilla glue you have to hold for quite some time. Still have to get my hands on the acrylic cement to test out.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-RapidFuse-0-85-oz-Clear-All-Purpose-Adhesive-01555/206767140

What if you change wall generation to arachne (this is default I've noticed for other most current version of slicers)?

Also, is that a publicly available model? If so, what is the link?

This is my "go to" cement.

I use the SCIGRIP 16 which is a 5 minute set (they maker faster setting, but would be too hard to work with IMO). You can buy it in tubes or can. Previously I always bought tubes but last time (Nov, 2022) went with a pint can. What I'm finding is that I'm about 2/3 through the can but over time it has become more viscous. I assume this is due to taking the lid off and on so many times and exposing the cement to the atmosphere. My thought next time will be to purchase another pint, but to transfer about 1/3 of it into my old empty can and work from it, thus keeping the bulk of the cement free from air exposure over time. I never had this issue with the tubes overall, but I would have to clear the nozzle at times.

Can we see your Strength settings please?
Did you receive an initial error mesaage on this model about floating regions? Did you create this model?

I created this model.
I did get an initial error and If I let the slicer repair then it makes the model completely solid which ruins its intended purpose of having an open cavity for motors.

I’ll upload my strength settings when I get home.

I’ve created a few other models - same concept just different characters - they we’re redesigns of this exact model and they all slice correctly.

I did try changing the wall generation to Arachne and had the same result.

This isn’t a publicly available model. I was threatened against sharing it by CGC’s legal team. So it’s just for my personal use.

I just got the X1 Carbon - so I’ve been going thru and reprinting some old projects just to see how much faster they come out and compare quality.

I tried it with detect thin walls on also.

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I would not repair the "error". Load it as is, then slice it and see what happens, if you have not tried that already.

2nd option may be to add "modifiers" for your motors.

Something definitely weird, but hard to diagnose since I can't actually play with it myself.

Assuming you are using Bambu Studio v01.05.00.61?

What if you change walls from 2 to 4?

What if you change orientation (rotate it along X-axis and try Y-axis even though you won't actually print it that way.

Another option I can think of is to set the model to 100% infill (assuming is slices correctly this way) then you can add modifier blocks at different heights/positions. You can then set the infill on the modifiers (overrides the global infill setting) and see if the model slices differently. You can possibly set infill to 0 on the sections that are slicing correctly but may 15% or some other setting in the middle might cause it to slice correctly.

Changing walls from 2 to 4 netted the same result.

Changing the orientation seemed to work. But some of the back is still missing

I ran into a similar looking slicing error recently on BS. Mine was on a known good model that I created and have printed before and seemed very specific to support settings and adding a different support filament to the interface layers. At first I thought it was just a display artifact but confirmed when I tried to print, it actually was screwed up gcode. Since updating to the latest 1.06 beta build, it has gone away. Also maybe try the OrcaSlicer branch and see if it behaves differently.

I wonder what would happen if you cut your model somewhere above where the weirdness starts and only kept the upper half. If it's a model issue, I would expect the artifacts to remain in the exact same place as the full model.

I am with you on the 100% infill as well.

cutting the model in BS could still result in a floating region error if the modifers are not added, but I do see what you are going after and it is worth a shot to try it. Maybe BS is just acting crazy.

Got a free amazon trial so I picked up a tube of SCIGRIP 16 just now to test out.

How much faster are the Bambu printers? For reference, I have a Prusa mini+

Shockingly faster (2, 3, 4 or even more times faster depending on model, settings, and filament type).

Download a model of your choice (or a couple of them), post the link(s) here, in Prusa Slicer set at .2mm thickness and standard settings (or whatever settings you wish then share them), generate g-code then post what the print time is. I'll download the same model(s), slice in Bambu Studio, and post the print time(s).

Wow, nice. Thanks. This is what mine would come to..

https://www.printables.com/model/3161-3d-benchy

I printed a benchy as a test print when I unboxed my Bambu X1, it took about 24 minutes.

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Default Settings

Here are my results using .2mm Speed Profile, 20% grid infill:

Sliced in PrusaSlicer | Prusa MK3S Print time = 1h31m
Sliced in Bambu Studio | Carbon X1 Print time = 0h42m

However, with some speed tweaks, I can actually get the time down to just 0h24m for the Bambu printer. I've actually printed this way before, and the Benchy comes out with comparable/equal quality to the Prusa printed one.

Here is another example in one of my personal applications. I make a 3D printed mountain mod for Getaway. At .2mm the print time on my Prusa MK3S+ was 14h42m, but that same model with the same print settings on the Carbon X1 is 4h:42m

Another speed test using a 2" x 2" x 2" cube at .2mm 100% infill:

Sliced in PrusaSlicer | Prusa MK3S Print time = 2h16m
Sliced in Bambu Studio | Carbon X1 Print time = 0h51m

Awesome. Thank you for doing this.

Starting to make things and realizing print times are very long. If I want to print in quantity, I will definitely look into the X1.

24m is insane!

Hi,

If anyone is familiar with White Water / WH2O, do you think the Big Foot Assembly # A-16047 Body & Log Assembly plastic piece (the thin shell the arms and hair goes on) could be 3D printed? It is hollow and has a few spots cut away, for securing it or having the gear motor shaft stick out to attach Big Foot's head.

Thank you so much

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listed my snapmaker if anyone has interest, i'll try and get some pics up later today. Comes with enclosure, 10w laser module, 2w laser module, cnc module, upgraded power supply (and original), emergency stop button, and all the work surfaces, asking $1.5k but open to trades and offers

Other - For Trade

Snapmaker 2.0 w/ 10w Laser module

“decided to list my snapmaker 3d printer here to see if anyone wants to use it for printing or cutting/engraving parts. It has interchangeable modules for different jobs. comes w...”

10 months ago

Preston, CT

CrisCrow

Expired!

I just found this - it is not me but I missed ordering these and I found this on line to print...cabinet protectors...

https://www.printables.com/en/model/119523

While not familiar with the part, I don't see why you couldn't 3D print it. Someone would need to model it, however.

Thank you so much. How does the modeling process work? Would a fellow Pinsider need the plastic piece, or just lots of detailed measurements. What is usually preferred if someone would be so kind?

Thank you again

Depends on the shape, who the maker is and what tools/techniques he/she uses. Some people are great 3D artists, some are good 3D engineers, some can create/copy basic objects, etc. Complexity of the shape has a lot to do with needing to have access to the original or not, but for me personally if I think I can reproduce something it is always better to have the original in my hand in order to minimize the number of prototypes required (i.e. multiple versions with minor changes until everything is correct).

At this point, unless one owns the game, I don't think any of us actually knows what the three-dimensional object actually looks like. The profile is bell-shaped, but that doesn't really tell us much.

I’d be willing to remove the fur on my mold if someone with skill to reproduce it was willing to take it on? Ideally, I could get the original back, since I’m anal/OCD/a perfectionist, but if the reproduction was spot on I wouldn’t miss it. I’m trying to get two of these (one for brown fur (Big Foot) and one for white fur (Abominable Snowman / Mumble from Rudolph)). Several people could utilize this mold, so a run of a dozen or two might be ideal.

Thank you

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PM sent.

Shape just needs to be similar with holes and cutout in the correct position, right? PM me if nobody has already taken on the job.

Simple playfield holder for Sega/Stern:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6017737

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Sharing a few self-designed items to contribute to this awesome group. I love to design things, and these are my favorite creations so far.

Ghostbusters Storage Facility
“Don’t shut it off!” The GB storage facility plastic felt uninspired, so I created a 3d sculpt that accepts the existing light boards and features Lock 1 & 2 lettering. There's also a wedge base that rotates it towards the player for better visibility. Uploaded for free download on the Printables site.
https://www.printables.com/model/478592-ghostbusters-pinball-storage-facility-3d-sculpt-mo

Blank Apron Card
Simply add a scaled logo on top, and customize your game! The corners are printed thin to allow for bending into the apron.
https://www.printables.com/model/478538-pinball-apron-card-blank-for-custom-logos-or-prici

WCS Soccer Ball Shooter Rod
Fits on Bally/Williams Knobless Shooter Rod. Perfect for World Cup Soccer '94
https://www.printables.com/model/478544-soccer-ball-pinball-shooter-rod-custom-sculpt-wcs-

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Nice, thanks. I've been needing apron cards for my Metallica and I'm going to try printing a black card with white logo and see how it turns out.

I think the name of this thread should be changed to Bambu lovers

What settings did you use to print this | supports? infill? resolution?

If I recall correctly, I used dynamic quality (.12 setting), 40% infill. By placing the shooter rod hole at the bottom, it creates a support that easily pops out.