(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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#4151 5 months ago

Has anyone come up with a .Stl of a Pindefender style shooter lane protector?

#4152 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Man I want to learn this stuff!
Do you or anyone, have a link to a tutorial for a novice like myself.
I am currently using a bambu lab p1p.

Theres different ways to reach similar results. Can start off trying something like this just for practice

https://www.geekering.com/categories/3d-printing/marcellacavalcanti/how-to-make-your-own-led-backlit-sign-part-1/

Basic idea, at least with Fusion360, is you can take a vector drawing and/or custom fonts to create your own sketch. You create inside walls and external then you extrude them to whatever depth you want. The next step after getting comfortable doing that is making colored inserts/lids for the openings to give it extra dimension.

#4153 5 months ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

Has anyone come up with a .Stl of a Pindefender style shooter lane protector?

I thought about it, but feel it's one of those things where they've done all of the tweaking to dial in the print, and it's priced fair.
Could I spend a few hours and make one near perfect? Yeah. Is it worth my time? No.
I'm a very DIY kinda guy and love getting distracted with little projects to flex my modeling skills.
But when a product is priced right, I would rather support the inventors than just make a copy.
I made the Spike LED speaker panels because the price was dispraportionate to what you get (IMO), so off I went.

#4154 5 months ago
Quoted from Viggin900:

I just posted my Blood Dripping Goo on Cults for your spooky games. Perfect for Elvira, Walking Dead, Munsters, Monster Bash or anything that is 26" across. You get the whole package with front shooter plate and coin door. There are 2 to choose from depending on your game.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pinball-dripping-goo-blood-mod-for-stern-spike2-games-elvira-house-of-horrors-munsters
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pinball-dripping-goo-blood-mod-for-stern-spike-1-ghostbusters-or-26-inches
[quoted image][quoted image]

This looks really good! Thanks for sharing!

#4155 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Man I want to learn this stuff!
Do you or anyone, have a link to a tutorial for a novice like myself.
I am currently using a bambu lab p1p.

I have been thinking about creating some videos but I’ve been short on time. I haven’t even been posting pinball videos. Too many irons in the fire right now.

#4156 5 months ago

I would like to print the playfield supports for both maintenance and cleaning of the games. Of course I could also buy them or make my own file, but wondering if anybody has tried them. I cannot remember the name of the actual gizmo but it attaches to the side of the cabinet so you can then rest the playfield on top to gain access to the upper.

Also has anybody tried to print these:
https://backalleycreations.com/collections/ez-slide-brackets/products/ez-slide-slider-bracket

#4157 5 months ago

Those are made out of Delrin, and for good reason. I would not try to print those. They seem like a bargain at $25.

#4158 5 months ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Those are made out of Delrin, and for good reason. I would not try to print those. They seem like a bargain at $25.

I am not sure about that...I suspect a printer part will hold up well actually... no?

#4159 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I am not sure about that...I suspect a printer part will hold up well actually... no?

100% infill PETG w/ the right print orientation...Maybe. Seems the top surface would get chewed all to hell though?

Maybe would hold up w/ 3d printed PETG caps on otherwise metal pegs (such that it's plastic sliding on plastic)?

#4160 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I am not sure about that...I suspect a printer part will hold up well actually... no?

I suspect it would be ok, I've been amazed at how strong drop targets are when printed in PLA.

However with something like this, it seems like the potential for damage here would not be worth the chance of the print potentially breaking over time / use / conditions.

Perhaps a similar guide could be fashioned by lowering the original metal bracket 1/4" and then having a 3D printed slip over it?

#4161 5 months ago
Quoted from koji:

I suspect it would be ok, I've been amazed at how strong drop targets are when printed in PLA.
However with something like this, it seems like the potential for damage here would not be worth the chance of the print potentially breaking over time / use / conditions.
Perhaps a similar guide could be fashioned by lowering the original metal bracket 1/4" and then having a 3D printed slip over it?

I’d prefer a one piece drop-in I think

#4162 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I am not sure about that...I suspect a printer part will hold up well actually... no?

Delrin (aka acetal or POM) is the perfect material for this. Unfortunately, it doesn't 3D print well. So injection molding or machining is the way to go. I suppose you could try to print it in PETG, but I don't think it would last. I'd be afraid of it splitting. Not worth the risk.

#4163 5 months ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Those are made out of Delrin, and for good reason. I would not try to print those. They seem like a bargain at $25.

Those could be modified to add TPU, now that Cura slicer has added a new feature to mix materials.

#4164 5 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Those could be modified to add TPU, now that Cura slicer has added a new feature to mix materials.

You definitely do not was sliders made out of TPU. It is way too grippy.

If someone was hell bent on trying different material off their printer, why not just make "caps" that fit over the metal sliders to get a feel for friction differences and test wear properties? Or probably better a cap over the part on the playfield?

I think you will find all materials are inferior to Delrin for this application and that time spent playing around goes way beyond these $25 parts. I am still not convinced there is an actually a problem to solve with the metal solution that already is on the game.

#4165 5 months ago
Quoted from RobF:

You definitely do not was sliders made out of TPU. It is way too grippy.
If someone was hell bent on trying different material off their printer, why not just make "caps" that fit over the metal sliders to get a feel for friction differences and test wear properties? Or probably better a cap over the part on the playfield?
I think you will find all materials are inferior to Delrin for this application and that time spent playing around goes way beyond these $25 parts. I am still not convinced there is an actually a problem to solve with the metal solution that already is on the game.

I agree with this... stop being so logical, you are crushing my 3d printing dreams, lolol

#4166 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I agree with this... stop being so logical,

I can't help it

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

you are crushing my 3d printing dreams, lolol

How about this....It would be an easily justifiable project for nothing else than something to practice cad design on. But I think coming up a design that is a cover over the metal rail would be more interesting and less risky. I mean, do you really want to be testing strength limits of your PETG part with the weight of your unsecured playfield standing straight up 7 feet in the air?

#4167 5 months ago
Quoted from RobF:

I can't help it

How about this....It would be an easily justifiable project for nothing else than something to practice cad design on. But I think coming up a design that is a cover over the metal rail would be more interesting and less risky. I mean, do you really want to be testing strength limits of your PETG part with the weight of your unsecured playfield standing strait up 7 feet in the air?

Hell yes!! Risk an injury and maybe an amulance ride. Lol

#4168 5 months ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

I've been guilty of this myself. Just because you can 3D print, doesn't mean you should - it's not always the best option.
I spent 4 days printing something which needed assembling, and wasn't happy with it. Made it out of wood in a couple of hours instead.

It seems relevant to repeat this again.

#4169 5 months ago

High res photos here: https://imgur.com/a/HtcsRru

Hit me up if interested to get one. Going for speed/price over trying to make it look perfect injection mold. Up close has some minor heat blobs that I'll try and clean on further prints, and better paint detailing line work. Looks great while playing normally though.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#4170 5 months ago
Quoted from dpadam450:

High res photos here: https://imgur.com/a/HtcsRru
Hit me up if interested to get one. Going for speed/price over trying to make it look perfect injection mold. Up close has some minor heat blobs that I'll try and clean on further prints, and better paint detailing line work. Looks great while playing normally though.
[quoted image]

Really cool. How are you mounting it to the game? Also, what size are you printing at?

#4171 5 months ago

Direct replacement mount. Take two screws out of the robots knee joint on the acrylic and this will have legs too with holes at the knee joint. The light bracket and all that still stays the same. Its printed one piece from ground up. 0.2mm. Will probably rotate parts individually and print vertical and print parts by color.

#4172 5 months ago

My attempt at designing replacement bumpers for the Rush ramp. Printed mine in NinjaFlex TPU. This is the first thing I've ever designed with my printer so, YMMV.

https://www.printables.com/model/446227-rush-pinball-ramp-bumper

#4173 5 months ago

Foo fighter rolling off the line

FD4E29A2-5D13-4862-9A21-8F7C753B171F (resized).jpegFD4E29A2-5D13-4862-9A21-8F7C753B171F (resized).jpeg
#4174 5 months ago

I really like this but the quality has to get better. I know you’re working on it. I’m looking forward to see what’s next. Awesome work!

Quoted from dpadam450:

High res photos here: https://imgur.com/a/HtcsRru
Hit me up if interested to get one. Going for speed/price over trying to make it look perfect injection mold. Up close has some minor heat blobs that I'll try and clean on further prints, and better paint detailing line work. Looks great while playing normally though.
[quoted image]

#4175 5 months ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

but the quality has to get better

Yea its a little ugly. Should be releasing the final ones tomorrow or next day and will post back. I got it compartmentalized by color and can spray. No more hand paint, no more visible brush strokes on the ship. Also very time consuming because each color needed multiple layers to saturate in. Everything is printed vertical so the shells get all the resolution now. Hopefully you like it. Still a decent amount of manual labor vs Galactic at $10k with raw prints. $60.

#4176 5 months ago

I have been wanting to create this for a while to help you guys that want to convert a Gen 1 Classic Stern steel bumper bracket to a more model bolt in kit by easily modifying a standard stern pop bumper bracket. The reason for doing this is the diameter of the modern stern pop bracket is approx 2.5mm larger in diameter than the hole in the playfield on a few games. So you either have to grind the pop bracket body away or remove the excess from you playfield which is quite permanent approach.

This is a jig that comes in 2 parts which you would 3D print up and then if you have access to a lathe (3 jaw) you can clamp the jig around the body and then centre it in the lathe and carefully machine the ring diameter down to approx 61mm diameter.

If anyone wants these jig parts just send me a pm with your email and then I can email them to you.

Print up at 0.2mm layers and about 40-50% fill in PLA or equivalent.
They are 16mm thick and you use 2 M4 bolts or imperial equivalent and 2 nuts to clamp the parts together. Bolts would be about 25-30mm long.

hope this helps.

jig 1 (resized).pngjig 1 (resized).pngjig 2 (resized).pngjig 2 (resized).png

#4177 5 months ago
Quoted from dpadam450:

Yea its a little ugly. Should be releasing the final ones tomorrow or next day and will post back. I got it compartmentalized by color and can spray. No more hand paint, no more visible brush strokes on the ship. Also very time consuming because each color needed multiple layers to saturate in. Everything is printed vertical so the shells get all the resolution now. Hopefully you like it. Still a decent amount of manual labor vs Galactic at $10k with raw prints. $60.

Are you willing to share the STL for us that would like to try and print our own?

#4178 5 months ago

Very true. I think we all now how much work is involved in this hobby. I can’t wait to see the finished result.

Quoted from dpadam450:

Yea its a little ugly. Should be releasing the final ones tomorrow or next day and will post back. I got it compartmentalized by color and can spray. No more hand paint, no more visible brush strokes on the ship. Also very time consuming because each color needed multiple layers to saturate in. Everything is printed vertical so the shells get all the resolution now. Hopefully you like it. Still a decent amount of manual labor vs Galactic at $10k with raw prints. $60.

#4179 5 months ago
Quoted from La4s:

Are you willing to share the STL for us that would like to try and print our own?

He already did, about a month back. You'll have to dig back through the thread a few pages for the link.

#4180 5 months ago

Has anyone run across an STL for the Mothra replacement on a Godzilla machine? Basically a 4 inch wide, mostly flat version that will directly replace the flat plastic shipped by stern. It’s beyond my drawing knowledge at this point.

#4181 5 months ago

A friend of mine bought a Stranger Things Pro with the UV kit. It had the Stern Insider Connected kit mounted under the right apron card sideways from the previous owner. I designed the premium apron mount which I don't think you can just buy without the kit. I don't think too many people will be in this situation but I uploaded to Printables if anyone needs it.

https://www.printables.com/model/447748-stern-insider-connected-apron-mount-right

#4182 5 months ago

I see creality has managed to clone the bambu. they know their market share is shrinking
https://www.creality.com/products/creality-k1-3d-printer

#4183 5 months ago

These STLs are out there so I printed some for me and some friends. They look nice

01867100-15C1-42CA-9B55-A7551939DADE (resized).jpeg01867100-15C1-42CA-9B55-A7551939DADE (resized).jpeg
#4184 5 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I see creality has managed to clone the bambu. they know their market share is shrinking
https://www.creality.com/products/creality-k1-3d-printer

That certainly didn't take long. Guess they are still in the process of backward engineering the AMS units, however.

#4185 5 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

That certainly didn't take long.

I am sure they already had something similar planned.

It doesn't appear to have a multi-filament option, which is probably a deal breaker for most people. I have been only printing with single color, and have been looking at the Carbon X1 as my next upgrade for the possible AMS. This Creality at 600 is very tempting if I decide I don't need the AMS system.

#4186 5 months ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

These STLs are out there so I printed some for me and some friends. They look nice
[quoted image]

That's my design. Glad you enjoy it! Interesting choice with the blue for the MZ logo. Hope your friends like them as well.

#4187 5 months ago

Thank you for sharing! Here is the blue installed

Quoted from king_pin:

That's my design. Glad you enjoy it! Interesting choice with the blue for the MZ logo. Hope your friends like them as well.

3B7CD9CC-C51D-4668-B29F-384AEFBB2216.jpeg3B7CD9CC-C51D-4668-B29F-384AEFBB2216.jpeg
#4188 5 months ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Thank you for sharing! Here is the blue installed
[quoted image]

Looks good there with the blue LEDs on the defense barrier!

#4189 5 months ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Thank you for sharing! Here is the blue installed
[quoted image]

Quoted from king_pin:

Looks good there with the blue LEDs on the defense barrier!

Xdetroit the blue really does look great! I've said it before, but thanks for sharing this one with us king_pin !

#4190 5 months ago

Put a video in the FF owners thread. Didn't want to cross post too much.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#4191 5 months ago

Anybody had this issue? One of my printers has been acting up getting jammed a lot. I replace the entire hot end which came with a new nozzle (direct from Anycubic). First print after about 10 layers jammed again. I pull filament out, snap it flat, put back in and push by hand. Jam comes out and nozzle free of clogs. However: look at how the material comes out. Not normal thin string, it expands a ton. Anyone had this happen? It starts to smell like it's burning. This is PLA from Hatchbox btw.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#4192 5 months ago
Quoted from dpadam450:

Anybody had this issue? One of my printers has been acting up getting jammed a lot. I replace the entire hot end which came with a new nozzle (direct from Anycubic). First print after about 10 layers jammed again. I pull filament out, snap it flat, put back in and push by hand. Jam comes out and nozzle free of clogs. However: look at how the material comes out. Not normal thin string, it expands a ton. Anyone had this happen? It starts to smell like it's burning. This is PLA from Hatchbox btw.[quoted image]

If it's not clogging until about 10 layers, I would guess it's getting jammed in the hotend. what kind of hot end? If it's an all metal hontend you have to watch your retractions. If it's a standard hotend (IE bowden tube goes all the way to the nozzle), you have to make sure that nozzle is tight against the nozzle so it can't jam up. If it's neither of these, it could be your cooling fan isn't pulling the heat from the heatsink well enough and you're getting heat creep (filament starts to melt too early)

#4193 5 months ago

Yea, stupidly I had a jam a long time ago and on this printer I took both fans off. I usually print like 110mm/s for support brackets and such and was cranking up heat etc. Thought I could take a fan off and just print massively fast by keeping more heat. I got one fan back in and it went a little longer. Have to find the other fan. Def seems like creep.

Also Overlord Rev. 2 and Grohl are ready to go.
Hi res here: https://i.imgur.com/0rKnSqJ.jpg

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#4194 5 months ago

Can anyone 3D scan a Bony Beast rib from Elvira? I want to print them in UV reactive PLA but I don't have a scanner.

#4195 5 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Can anyone 3D scan a Bony Beast rib from Elvira? I want to print them in UV reactive PLA but I don't have a scanner.

Never used it but try Kiri Engine. There are other free apps. I've used professional apps before that all work from images. No need for a scanner.

#4196 5 months ago
Quoted from dpadam450:

Never used it but try Kiri Engine. There are other free apps. I've used professional apps before that all work from images. No need for a scanner.

Checking it out, thanks! I thought I had to have one of those 3D phones in the least for those to work.

#4197 5 months ago

I've gotten incredible results (even with real small stuff) using Polycam app. While the Lidar function is cool for big spaces, the photo capture is ideal for smaller stuff.

#4198 5 months ago

I have to check that out as well.

#4199 5 months ago

Going to buy the bambu x1 carbon - do I want the AMS ? I’ve never done multi color before is it worth it?

#4200 5 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Going to buy the bambu x1 carbon - do I want the AMS ? I’ve never done multi color before is it worth it?

I ended up setting up mine with 2x AMS. I don't do a huge amount of multicolor, but it's slick as hell when I do. I certainly do more now that I have the option, even stuff I could do before by simply setting a pause to swap filament on easy changes. The beauty is, I don't have to go anywhere near the machine, it just does it all automagically. The AMS have been quite robust so far and double as dryboxes, so to me personally, worth it.

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