(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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#4051 1 year ago

I recently had an issue on my Road Show with the rear diverter drive arm (A-19293). Unfortunately the set screw was seized. So I redesigned it in FreeCad and had it printed in stainless. 3pcs was around $24 + postage, if anybody needs one I have one left. Since there is some shrinkage you will need to drill and tap the set screw hole. This should also work for Johnny Mnemonic

The FreeCad file is a parametric design so if you need to re-use for another game feel free.

Thingiverse link should work in 24 hours.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5908294

A-19293 (resized).pngA-19293 (resized).png
#4052 1 year ago
Quoted from Planet866:

I recently had an issue on my Road Show with the rear diverter drive arm (A-19293). Unfortunately the set screw was seized. So I redesigned it in FreeCad and had it printed in stainless. 3pcs was around $24 + postage, if anybody needs one I have one left. Since there is some shrinkage you will need to drill and tap the set screw hole. This should also work for Johnny Mnemonic
The FreeCad file is a parametric design so if you need to re-use for another game feel free.
Thingiverse link should work in 24 hours.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5908294
[quoted image]

Where did you get it printed? The quotes I've seen for metal printing on Shapeways has been very high.

#4053 1 year ago

Wow, I really messed up. My ender 3 messed up during an overnight print and i woke to a big blob of plastic.

I heated it up with a heat gun and softened the pla enough to get it off but i overheated it and melted the fans. Sigh. I suspect i will have to get a whole new assembly

0D1E41E3-3BAA-465A-883B-0C22D882566A (resized).jpeg0D1E41E3-3BAA-465A-883B-0C22D882566A (resized).jpegA95AB78D-4451-428F-9816-0DF306F1DECC (resized).jpegA95AB78D-4451-428F-9816-0DF306F1DECC (resized).jpeg
#4054 1 year ago

I had one like that on my Prusa. Just had to replace the impacted parts and was back in business.

#4055 1 year ago

For next time, just preheat the block and pull it off with pliers. Sometimes it's salvagable, if not it's cheap enough to replace the nozzle/block/whatever is affected.

#4056 1 year ago

Probably happens to each of us at least once. I had similar on my Prusa MK3S+. I heated the hot end to the highest it would go to remove the plastic, but it had worked its way into every crevasse and I ended up severing one of the wires. I was down for the few days it took for another hot end assembly to arrive, but once I got it installed everything was back to normal.

#4057 1 year ago
Quoted from Planet866:

I recently had an issue on my Road Show with the rear diverter drive arm (A-19293). Unfortunately the set screw was seized. So I redesigned it in FreeCad and had it printed in stainless. 3pcs was around $24 + postage, if anybody needs one I have one left. Since there is some shrinkage you will need to drill and tap the set screw hole. This should also work for Johnny Mnemonic
The FreeCad file is a parametric design so if you need to re-use for another game feel free.
Thingiverse link should work in 24 hours.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5908294
[quoted image]

I wonder what kind of stainless steel exactly was used. A powder based additive process will yield strong results but i'm sure you're aware if its stainless steel PLA it actually more brittle that other option like standard PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA CF, etc.

#4058 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

I wonder what kind of stainless steel exactly was used. A powder based additive process will yield strong results but i'm sure you're aware if its stainless steel PLA it actually more brittle that other option like standard PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA CF, etc.

Printed with SLM with Stainless 316. It's held up for 3 months now no issues so far

Quoted from dudah:

Where did you get it printed? The quotes I've seen for metal printing on Shapeways has been very high.

JLCPCB offers SLM Stainless 316. They bead blast the parts to clean them up. Doesn't look great but it works for mechanical parts

#4059 1 year ago

Mr_Tantrum Thanks for the tip on the BL High Temp sheet. I just received mine and did a test print with my Playfield Jacks with no release additive. They printed perfectly and popped right off the bed.

#4060 1 year ago

General STL file question:

If there's an open endpoint in the model, or it is not "solid" for any reason, would that show up in a preview image of the model? When I open up the parts I'm having printed tomorrow in the Preview app on my Mac, everything looks perfect and I can spin the model around to check it all and it looks great. But, I know that's not always the case and if the model isn't 100% "solid" there could be issues when being translated by other programs or devices.

Would an error or open point in the model show up in Preview?

Would that kind of error show up in the slicer program?

I'm bringing the source files with me in case I have to make any adjustments on the fly, so I should be covered for any weird circumstances that might pop up.

#4061 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

General STL file question:
If there's an open endpoint in the model, or it is not "solid" for any reason, would that show up in a preview image of the model? When I open up the parts I'm having printed tomorrow in the Preview app on my Mac, everything looks perfect and I can spin the model around to check it all and it looks great. But, I know that's not always the case and if the model isn't 100% "solid" there could be issues when being translated by other programs or devices.
Would an error or open point in the model show up in Preview?
Would that kind of error show up in the slicer program?
I'm bringing the source files with me in case I have to make any adjustments on the fly, so I should be covered for any weird circumstances that might pop up.

Typically that type of error would display a warning in the slicer program. For example, Cura may complain that the model is not watertight and you can then do an x-ray view to see which area it's complaining about. It may or may not affect printing. I have clicked through this error on multiple files and had them print without issue.

#4062 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

General STL file question:
If there's an open endpoint in the model, or it is not "solid" for any reason, would that show up in a preview image of the model? When I open up the parts I'm having printed tomorrow in the Preview app on my Mac, everything looks perfect and I can spin the model around to check it all and it looks great. But, I know that's not always the case and if the model isn't 100% "solid" there could be issues when being translated by other programs or devices.
Would an error or open point in the model show up in Preview?
Would that kind of error show up in the slicer program?
I'm bringing the source files with me in case I have to make any adjustments on the fly, so I should be covered for any weird circumstances that might pop up.

Put the STL in a slicer and slice it at the resolution and infill % it will be printed. You can then view by layer and see any defects in the file. You can download a variety of slicers for free (Prusa slicer, Bambu slicer, Cura, etc.) and you don't need a printer for them to work.

The slicer would not necessarily report an open area (how does it know you didn't intend for such a spot to be open or not), but it will let you know if there are gaps in layers, missing information, etc. and can automatically correct many of these types of errors.

#4063 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Wow, I really messed up. My ender 3 messed up during an overnight print and i woke to a big blob of plastic.
I heated it up with a heat gun and softened the pla enough to get it off but i overheated it and melted the fans. Sigh. I suspect i will have to get a whole new assembly [quoted image][quoted image]

Ugh that sucks. Next time just heat the nozzle like you normally would rather than using the heat gun. I've always had luck removing blobs this way.

#4064 1 year ago

Any input on the best program(s) for beginners?

#4065 1 year ago
Quoted from GoldenBeard:

Any input on the best program(s) for beginners?

I’ve been messing around with tinkercad, it seems decent for a starting point (and free so only thing you’re risking is your time).

14
#4066 1 year ago

had finally gotten my available printer properly working and got dpadam450 's alien made. looks great. will wait till someone can get a measurement in the game to see what to scale it at

2023-03-14 11.39.53 (resized).jpg2023-03-14 11.39.53 (resized).jpg
#4067 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Typically that type of error would display a warning in the slicer program. For example, Cura may complain that the model is not watertight and you can then do an x-ray view to see which area it's complaining about. It may or may not affect printing. I have clicked through this error on multiple files and had them print without issue.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Put the STL in a slicer and slice it at the resolution and infill % it will be printed. You can then view by layer and see any defects in the file. You can download a variety of slicers for free (Prusa slicer, Bambu slicer, Cura, etc.) and you don't need a printer for them to work.
The slicer would not necessarily report an open area (how does it know you didn't intend for such a spot to be open or not), but it will let you know if there are gaps in layers, missing information, etc. and can automatically correct many of these types of errors.

Ok, that worked out beautifully! I downloaded the Prusa Slicer and threw all the parts in there to check for anything weird. Got nothing! I played with the different settings and the infill percentage and still, nothing! The side benefit of doing that is when I put two of the parts back to back, I noticed and error in my design on one of them. Trying to decide which one to fix, though, is the tough part since I don't exactly remember which one I started with. Gonna run it back through F360 and take some dimensions off both of them. That'll tell me which one is bad. Most likely due to a bend line radius starting point. Fairly common thing for sheetmetal type parts.

Thanks for the suggestion and the help, all!

#4068 1 year ago

I ran into the king_pin 3D models for Godzilla for the mechagodzilla spinner. It's a two piece set, Left and right, with an STL file for each. The finished/painted piece can be found ready to go in the pinside marketplace, but if you have the time and energy to get it printed and painted, have at it!

https://thangs.com/search/godzilla%20pinball?scope=all

And while I was at it, I found a set of 3D files (for private use only) by toyotaboy on Thingiverse for a building on the left side of the backwall:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5197717

#4069 1 year ago
Quoted from Sleal16:

had finally gotten my available printer properly working and got dpadam450 's alien made. looks great. will wait till someone can get a measurement in the game to see what to scale it at
[quoted image]

Looks great!

#4070 1 year ago
Quoted from GoldenBeard:

Any input on the best program(s) for beginners?

I jumped right in to fusion. YouTube is your friend. Within a few days I had designed my Godzilla Prem and LE mechagodzilla spinner replacement plastics. My advice, have a goal. Find something you want to make and then your learning will be focused on that task. I had never worked with 3d prior to making those.

#4071 1 year ago

I've been lurking this thread for a while and I'm excited to have something to share!

The node 10 in my RUSH died again, so I took the opportunity to design a printable wedge to hold the ramp up in the proper position while I wait on another replacement. The game plays like absolute garbage if the ramp is stuck down, and without node 10 it won't move. Since it uses a stepper motor, it won't simply "stay in place" without intervention. With this ramp, the game plays more like the Pro model.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

If anyone wants a copy of the printable file, it's here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5913092

#4072 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I ran into the king_pin 3D models for Godzilla for the mechagodzilla spinner. It's a two piece set, Left and right, with an STL file for each. The finished/painted piece can be found ready to go in the pinside marketplace, but if you have the time and energy to get it printed and painted, have at it!
https://thangs.com/search/godzilla%20pinball?scope=all
And while I was at it, I found a set of 3D files (for private use only) by toyotaboy on Thingiverse for a building on the left side of the backwall:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5197717

Great job king_pin !

#4073 1 year ago

Further quick parts update:

Inspect>Measure in F360 proved that my parts were indeed off and not identical mirrors from lefthand to righthand sides. They didn't even match the measurements I though I had specified. I ended up restarting from almost scratch and build the parts 1000% better and much easier to guarantee uniformity. In the redraw process, my number of steps in the process went from like twenty down to six with the new simplicity and more correct build process. I am SO much happier with the end results now! I put them back into the slicer and they match up perfectly! And those are parts that match up my required dimensions dead on as well.

I am now very confident that the printed parts will fit extremely well. If not, they won't be off by very much.

#4074 1 year ago

Anyone come up with their own version of playfield jack? Seems like a great product but it only works on sterns? Perhaps an adjustable width version would be better for other games? Before I spend $60 I wanted to see if there is a poor man’s version

#4075 1 year ago
Quoted from Medic:

Anyone come up with their own version of playfield jack? Seems like a great product but it only works on sterns? Perhaps an adjustable width version would be better for other games? Before I spend $60 I wanted to see if there is a poor man’s version

HI, yep, try to look after this one, I don’t know if you can find this outside Europe. (10€ ) sorry it’s not 3D end of off-topic , for more info MP
62C60B6F-0ECD-4A13-8E89-9A8CF963A7EE (resized).jpeg62C60B6F-0ECD-4A13-8E89-9A8CF963A7EE (resized).jpegF6C1247C-9FA9-4662-B7E3-723D7472F72F (resized).jpegF6C1247C-9FA9-4662-B7E3-723D7472F72F (resized).jpeg

#4076 1 year ago
Quoted from Medic:

Anyone come up with their own version of playfield jack? Seems like a great product but it only works on sterns? Perhaps an adjustable width version would be better for other games? Before I spend $60 I wanted to see if there is a poor man’s version

“Click here for the one simple trick they don’t want you to know…”

#4077 1 year ago

Went and brought my files to be printed to the high school where my friend teaches. The place was freaking awesome! I was SO jealous of the machinery, and the skills and abilities these kids are learning there. Between the woodshop, the CNC mills and routers, all the welders, the laser cutters, 3D printers of all kinds, and I'm sure plenty other stuff I didn't get to see on my tour, you could easily make a pinball machine from scratch there. My eyes were bugging out of my head. I was trying to figure out a way to enroll myself there!

Anyway, I see the 3D printers all along the counter on one side of a room that's filled with all manner of machinery and even a few Caterpillar driving simulators and think about what materials they've got in them and how long a single part is going to take. Then he turns me around and shows me the actual printer he's going to print my stuff on. It's the size of a damn refrigerator! It's a StrataSys F370, which I now know is a beast of a printer. He goes and checks the filament drawer to see what's in it, and it's got ABS ready to go. Then we bring up the parts in his slicer and not only does he offer to print all four parts I bought(I only really needed one pair of the two), but he's able to print all of them in ABS at 80% infill. The print took 5hrs 29min. I'll pick them up from his house sometime this weekend.

I don't know if I was more stunned by his generosity or the printer my parts were printed on and how they're going to turn out. I can't wait to get them and test them out. Here's a pic of that printer that I'm sure some of you will drool over. Trust me, the rest of their shops there were filled with all manner of equally impressive machinery from all the top manufacturers. Oh, the things I could build there in a weekend......
F370F370

#4078 1 year ago

Just thought I would issue a filament warning now that I have 300+ hours on my Bambu Carbon X1. Prusament filaments are some of my favorite - great colors, consistent, etc. I've printed from about a dozen different Prusament PLA spools and they have all worked perfectly, except for one. I don't know what the issue is, but Galaxy Silver has given me absolute fits (I print Galaxay Black and Galaxy Purple just fine). The issue is with it clogging the hot end. At least a dozen times when using it I get an error that it can't retract and/or failed to remove from hot end. I have to literally remove the hot end from the printer and use a process with a heated wire to remove the filament stuck inside the top of the assembly. Once it even clogged up the feeder assembly above the hot end, which was an incredible pain to resolve (had to remove the unit and fully dissassemble it). I've since purchased a spool of Prusament My Silverness, and it feeds flawlessly.

There are no issues using any of the Prusament filaments (I've printed with both PLA & PETG thus far) in either of my AMS units. I don't know what it is about the Galaxy Silver, but after fighting it on several projects I'm down to the last layer on the spool and trying to find a solid print to finish it off with or I might just decide to toss it in the trash (seems a little wasteful, so haven't been able to bring myself to do it yet).

BTW, I had a couple of other off brand filaments that were giving me issues in the AMS for various reasons. I devised a spool transfer rig using parts I had laying around in the garage with my electric drill and actually re-spooled these filaments on to empty Prusament spools. In both cases the filaments now feed perfectly using the AMS. I know previously somebody had mentioned that the AMS units do not like Prusament spools, but I can clearly refute this claim based on my experience.

#4079 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Went and brought my files to be printed to the high school where my friend teaches. The place was freaking awesome! I was SO jealous of the machinery, and the skills and abilities these kids are learning there. Between the woodshop, the CNC mills and routers, all the welders, the laser cutters, 3D printers of all kinds, and I'm sure plenty other stuff I didn't get to see on my tour, you could easily make a pinball machine from scratch there. My eyes were bugging out of my head. I was trying to figure out a way to enroll myself there!
Anyway, I see the 3D printers all along the counter on one side of a room that's filled with all manner of machinery and even a few Caterpillar driving simulators and think about what materials they've got in them and how long a single part is going to take. Then he turns me around and shows me the actual printer he's going to print my stuff on. It's the size of a damn refrigerator! It's a StrataSys F370, which I now know is a beast of a printer. He goes and checks the filament drawer to see what's in it, and it's got ABS ready to go. Then we bring up the parts in his slicer and not only does he offer to print all four parts I bought(I only really needed one pair of the two), but he's able to print all of them in ABS at 80% infill. The print took 5hrs 29min. I'll pick them up from his house sometime this weekend.
I don't know if I was more stunned by his generosity or the printer my parts were printed on and how they're going to turn out. I can't wait to get them and test them out. Here's a pic of that printer that I'm sure some of you will drool over. Trust me, the rest of their shops there were filled with all manner of equally impressive machinery from all the top manufacturers. Oh, the things I could build there in a weekend......
[quoted image]

That's a $75K retail printer. Seems a little overkill for a High School resource but then again, they are spending someone else's money (yours), so what do they care? Glad you are at least getting to use it.

#4080 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

That's a $75K retail printer. Seems a little overkill for a High School resource but then again, they are spending someone else's money (yours), so what do they care? Glad you are at least getting to use it.

It's actually a charter school that the parents pay a direct fee for the students to go to on top of the property tax apportionments. Due to the school's amazingly successful track record, most of their machinery is donated or loaned to them from the manufacturers. If I were to walk around that place and tally up the cost of all their stuff, it'd be well into the millions. The school is only 4 years old, too. There's no way they'd be able to build all that capital that quickly buy all that stuff after such a short time.

With so many kids believing that they'll be Youtube or TikTok stars or somehow be Insta-famous as a way to make a living these days, I'm sure most of the companies they contacted about donating a machine to the school were happy to help get these kids into high-tech/skilled labor professions.

#4081 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

It's actually a charter school that the parents pay a direct fee for the students to go to on top of the property tax apportionments. Due to the school's amazingly successful track record, most of their machinery is donated or loaned to them from the manufacturers. If I were to walk around that place and tally up the cost of all their stuff, it'd be well into the millions. The school is only 4 years old, too. There's no way they'd be able to build all that capital that quickly buy all that stuff after such a short time.
With so many kids believing that they'll be Youtube or TikTok stars or somehow be Insta-famous as a way to make a living these days, I'm sure most of the companies they contacted about donating a machine to the school were happy to help get these kids into high-tech/skilled labor professions.

I certainly made some incorrect assumptions. I used to work at a company where we had several charter school customers. I will say that their tech departments were by far the most advanced of all the schools. Lots of positives about these schools, and I do agree with you that teaching highly skilled trades is a commendable and worthy pursuit.

#4082 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Went and brought my files to be printed to the high school where my friend teaches. The place was freaking awesome! I was SO jealous of the machinery, and the skills and abilities these kids are learning there. Between the woodshop, the CNC mills and routers, all the welders, the laser cutters, 3D printers of all kinds, and I'm sure plenty other stuff I didn't get to see on my tour, you could easily make a pinball machine from scratch there. My eyes were bugging out of my head. I was trying to figure out a way to enroll myself there!
Anyway, I see the 3D printers all along the counter on one side of a room that's filled with all manner of machinery and even a few Caterpillar driving simulators and think about what materials they've got in them and how long a single part is going to take. Then he turns me around and shows me the actual printer he's going to print my stuff on. It's the size of a damn refrigerator! It's a StrataSys F370, which I now know is a beast of a printer. He goes and checks the filament drawer to see what's in it, and it's got ABS ready to go. Then we bring up the parts in his slicer and not only does he offer to print all four parts I bought(I only really needed one pair of the two), but he's able to print all of them in ABS at 80% infill. The print took 5hrs 29min. I'll pick them up from his house sometime this weekend.
I don't know if I was more stunned by his generosity or the printer my parts were printed on and how they're going to turn out. I can't wait to get them and test them out. Here's a pic of that printer that I'm sure some of you will drool over. Trust me, the rest of their shops there were filled with all manner of equally impressive machinery from all the top manufacturers. Oh, the things I could build there in a weekend......
[quoted image]

We have a StratsysF900 and I would welcome tradespersons or engineers who learned at this level on these amazing machines and then enter the manufacturing world ready to go or with very little learning curve. So happy to see this happening at the high school level.

#4083 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

General STL file question:
If there's an open endpoint in the model, or it is not "solid" for any reason, would that show up in a preview image of the model? When I open up the parts I'm having printed tomorrow in the Preview app on my Mac, everything looks perfect and I can spin the model around to check it all and it looks great. But, I know that's not always the case and if the model isn't 100% "solid" there could be issues when being translated by other programs or devices.
Would an error or open point in the model show up in Preview?
Would that kind of error show up in the slicer program?
I'm bringing the source files with me in case I have to make any adjustments on the fly, so I should be covered for any weird circumstances that might pop up.

Microsoft's 3D Builder will repair repair stl files.

#4084 1 year ago

I helped Don from the pinball podcast model up replacement coil brackets for AFTOR 6 years ago. I lost my files in a drive crash so the new owner is asking me to remodel them from scratch. Also modeling the oddball orange posts they used as well. I'll eventually get these up on thingiverse.
bracket1 (resized).pngbracket1 (resized).pngbracket2 (resized).pngbracket2 (resized).pngorange_post (resized).pngorange_post (resized).png

#4085 12 months ago
Quoted from vestaviascott:

The badge holder (back plate) is on thingaverse and printables. I'm looking for the placard itself. The one that appears on the Godzilla LE that the badge holder is made to hold. It could be a sticker or decal, I'm not certain. I think it would be cool as a two color print tho. I did already print out the badge holder, its great.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5230028

#4086 12 months ago
Quoted from king_pin:

Pretty cool. What filament do you use? Do they grip like the silicone shoes grip?

I use Hatchbox Flex but it looks like they don't make it anymore. They absolutely grip. I have my pins on a tile floor so if I didn't have these, they would slide when I nudge and scrape up my floor.

#4087 12 months ago

I thought you might enjoy my little saga of part replacement for the Ender 3 S1 Pro that I mangled with a heat gun.

I purchased a replacement extruder assembly from Amazon but it doesn't come with everything, specifically the cover of the fan which was melted and interfering with the fan rotation.

After some back and forth with Creality customer service, I got the response:
"The Nozzle PCB mounting plate and shipping cost a total of $18 Please place an order at this link, the quantity is 18.
https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/cancel-refund-different-price "

The link points to a confusing "extra fee and different price" page full of parts, none of which match $18 or "Nozzle PCB mounting plate" - after another round of emails, I got the impression I am supposed to place an unspecified order for $18 and they will send me the right part since it cannot be purchased in the normal fashion. I sure hope this works!

moral of the story - keep heat guns away from your printer!

IMG_6932 (resized).jpgIMG_6932 (resized).jpgScreenshot 2023-03-20 123740 (resized).pngScreenshot 2023-03-20 123740 (resized).png
#4088 12 months ago

Hey everyone. pinopinballmods provided me with some feedback on my left Mechagodzilla sculpt. Seems the screw holes weren't deep enough to keep the metal plate below the original plastic. I have edited the model and made the screw holes deeper and posted to thangs. If anyone else has any other feedback, please let me know.

https://thangs.com/designer/king_pin/3d-model/Stern%20Godzilla%20Pinball%20Premium%20and%20LE%20Mechagodzilla%20Sculpt%20-%20Left-683478

Cheers.

#4089 12 months ago

Well, parts all came out great! Lighter than I expected, but definitely plenty strong! I bolted on one set and they worked perfectly. I was over the moon! I know the other set will work just as well as the only difference between them is one dimension. Now just a couple quick clearance refinements and I believe I'm done. My friend even offered to print the new ones, too. He's way too generous. I can see how this 3D printing thing can get addictive...

#4090 12 months ago

For anyone that was looking for an Austin Powers toilet seat, I had to whip one up real quick because mine broke. Didn't have any white filament, but it looks fine in black. It's not a perfect 1-1, it's a little less rounded at the bottom than the original, but it's solid and all the holes line up. If it ends up getting on my nerves I might go back and redo it.

I did it in PLA, 0.2 w/ 100% infill. If you have/can do ABS, I'd probably recommend that.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x303jsz1yudtomq/AP%20Toilet%20Seat.stl?dl=0

IMG_20230323_151114153 (resized).jpgIMG_20230323_151114153 (resized).jpg
#4091 12 months ago
Quoted from Scucci_:

For anyone that was looking for an Austin Powers toilet seat, I had to whip one up real quick because mine broke. Didn't have any white filament, but it looks fine in black. It's not a perfect 1-1, it's a little less rounded at the bottom than the original, but it's solid and all the holes line up. If it ends up getting on my nerves I might go back and redo it.
I did it in PLA, 0.2 w/ 100% infill. If you have/can do ABS, I'd probably recommend that.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x303jsz1yudtomq/AP%20Toilet%20Seat.stl?dl=0
[quoted image]

Oh behave!

#4092 11 months ago

If any of you reading this is experienced with injection molded parts and willing to give some advice, pm me? Thanks

#4093 11 months ago
Quoted from Scucci_:

For anyone that was looking for an Austin Powers toilet seat, I had to whip one up real quick because mine broke. Didn't have any white filament, but it looks fine in black. It's not a perfect 1-1, it's a little less rounded at the bottom than the original, but it's solid and all the holes line up. If it ends up getting on my nerves I might go back and redo it.
I did it in PLA, 0.2 w/ 100% infill. If you have/can do ABS, I'd probably recommend that.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x303jsz1yudtomq/AP%20Toilet%20Seat.stl?dl=0
[quoted image]

I wonder if you can get it printed in solid gold...

#4094 11 months ago
Quoted from Anony:

I wonder if you can get it printed in solid gold...

https://www.shapeways.com/materials/gold

#4095 11 months ago

So I've been print some neat little things with good results, but I want to start modeling myself. Should I go with fusion360, onshape, or something else? Thanks

#4096 11 months ago
Quoted from JakePG:

So I've been print some neat little things with good results, but I want to start modeling myself. Should I go with fusion360, onshape, or something else? Thanks

Fusion is really good but there are a lot of nuisances if you are not paying for it. For example it's always online and needs to call home to work, there are limits to how many models you can have as editable so if you go back to an older model you have to make a newer one read only to be able to edit the old one, every so often it will tell you that your subscription has expired and you need to go back to their website and active it... Not the worst but it does get annoying.

I just saw this video recently, I might give it a try.

#4097 11 months ago
Quoted from Anony:

Fusion is really good but there are a lot of nuisances if you are not paying for it. For example it's always online and needs to call home to work, there are limits to how many models you can have as editable so if you go back to an older model you have to make a newer one read only to be able to edit the old one, every so often it will tell you that your subscription has expired and you need to go back to their website and active it... Not the worst but it does get annoying.
I just saw this video recently, I might give it a try.

I saw that video too. FreeCAD looks like a clunky POS that attempts to be a good parametric modeler. You would think with being open source and enough programmers adding to it, that it could at least live up to the level of maybe pro-engineer from the early 2000's, but it looks like it's not even that good. I wouldn't waste my time.]\
Solidworks is really expensive (I did pay the $5k for a license back in 2018), but they do have a $10/month or $100/year maker license. I too hate recurring license fees, but you pay that much for a netflix account
https://www.solidworks.com/solution/3dexperience-solidworks-makers

#4098 11 months ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

In other news.
I take a lot of machines to shows, not always mine.
A common frustration is misplaced bolts, or balls. These usually all get thrown together in the coinbox or a plastic bag, which can cause the balls to be scratched.
Seeing as I now have a 3D printer (Flashforge Adventurer 3) I decided to come up with a carry case for all of the bolts and balls.
The challenge was the fact that the print bed is only 150 x 150mm. So to come up with a design which fit 6 balls, 8 leg bolts and 2 back box locking bolts in was a challenge to say the least. In the end it took epotech's skill to come up with this.
It even has space for all of the leg bolt washers and (if not a Stern) a single long back box locking bolt. Holds together securely with magnets.
[quoted image]

Have now created 3 other varieties, 2 by request, 1 for completion.

A single ball EM version, which will hold all 4 long backbox bolts and washers.
20230326_195404 (resized).jpg20230326_195404 (resized).jpg
Another for backboxes secured by wingbolts - 4 balls max.
20230223_210719 (resized).jpg20230223_210719 (resized).jpg

Finally one where the backbox is locked with an Allen key - 6 balls
20230326_195351 (resized).jpg20230326_195351 (resized).jpg

#4099 11 months ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

Have now created 3 other varieties, 2 by request, 1 for completion.
A single ball EM version, which will hold all 4 long backbox bolts and washers.
[quoted image]
Another for backboxes secured by wingbolts - 4 balls max.
[quoted image]
Finally one where the backbox is locked with an Allen key - 6 balls
[quoted image]

These are great. Well done!

14
#4100 11 months ago

Cactus canyon gulp, complete with bullet holes

26FB7F11-698B-4A5E-8E04-CB0C2857C347 (resized).jpeg26FB7F11-698B-4A5E-8E04-CB0C2857C347 (resized).jpeg552AD36B-5A72-4AA5-A5CC-75ADA207F164 (resized).jpeg552AD36B-5A72-4AA5-A5CC-75ADA207F164 (resized).jpeg
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