(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

PXL_20240328_230806291 (resized).jpg
Overlord (resized).png
IMG_2918 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2917 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8062 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8060 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8056 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0520 (resized).JPG
IMG_0519 (resized).JPG
IMG_8047 (resized).jpeg
20240309_141753 (resized).jpg
20240309_141803 (resized).jpg
IMG_1463 (resized).jpg
IMG_1465 (resized).jpg
IMG_1464 (resized).jpg
IMG_1466 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 6,472 posts in this topic. You are on page 81 of 130.
#4001 1 year ago

Make sure you ALWAYS hit the hollow button for resin. It's in Chitubox and should hopefully be in other programs. Had to teach a new guy to use that. Such a massive waste of resin. At 1000 scale, I think it'll be a tad bit too small. I think 2540 it may just be a little too big but unless someone has the game, its a jusgement by eyeballing. If you don't want to flood the forums, hit me up with finals. Curious to see what paint jobs you guys might pull off.

#4002 1 year ago
Quoted from dpadam450:

Make sure you ALWAYS hit the hollow button. It's in Chitubox and should hopefully be in other programs. Had to teach a new guy to use that. Such a massive waste of resin. At 1000 scale, I think it'll be a tad bit too small. I think 2540 it may just be a little too big but unless someone has the game, its a jusgement by eyeballing. If you don't want to flood the forums, hit me up with finals. Curious to see what paint jobs you guys might pull off.

oh yeah, i always hollow. I have 4 resin printers running almost non-stop for over a year. Learned to always check after some of the patreon's I'm in for some reason hollow only part of their files. Not sure why even do part way through....

#4003 1 year ago

Making a "quick" IJ topper for a local friend. Statues in resin and will the the ornate trim in the X1C. Havent tried gold chrome paint effects, so will see how that turns out this weekend. I do know that I might have rushed it a bit in the gloss black base I just put on with an airbrush. Its lacquer and dont think I have thinner to clean my nozzle =/

2023-02-22 13.40.09 (resized).jpg2023-02-22 13.40.09 (resized).jpg
#4004 1 year ago

dpadam450 For sure. I scaled it up 1500% in my slicer with no issues. I've got a Premium coming so I'd just like to print one in relative game size in multi-color for fun.

#4005 1 year ago
Quoted from dpadam450:

Sorry, thought most people would be using an intermediate program to modify and select how they wish to print. I think some want to print a ton of parts separate by color in which I don't have the robot arms etc boolean cut to shape around the ship to be glued later. They all are intersecting parts.
Take a look at the new files "FooParts". Gun, Alien, Ship are all 3 separate parts that you should be able to feed how you guys are loading. I ran them into Cura to make sure they would slice properly. They look fine to me and already printed the alien so I know that's a good file.
https://www.printables.com/model/414199-foo-fighters-pinball-alien/files
If an object is ever that small, usually a scaling conversion from inches to mm (25.4mm per inch), so scale by 2540%. The gun has some steep edges on the barrel + grip with those grooves so you will likely need supports or it will have to modify so its angled less, but is going to ruin the shape. Since I don't have the game, I don't know the true scale of the actual molded part, so you may all need to scale at your own judgement, but the alien scaled up how I said makes him about the width of a pinball so it looks pretty close to whats in the game(?)
Let me know if you still got issues, hopefully it gets good use. Also the gun hasn't been tested for print fitting either. I did a wider boolean cut so hopefully the grip and barrel can be fit glued right on to the base. Gun doesn't replicate any real world game part, so if scale as you will for whatever/wherever you want to print it for.

I'm really confused. I pulled the three seperate files in: Alien, Gun, and Ship. They are all the same thing except one of them only has one ship instead of two.

I get the scaling, but still have to use slicer to split into parts then delete the dozens of parts that I don't want to print.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#4006 1 year ago

Scaled from mm to inches, and have this issue in the goggle strap.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#4007 1 year ago

BTW, awesome work. Ideally, I think this deserves a model painter (which I am not) but my second AMS for my Bambu arrives tomorrow so I think I'll take a stab at doing a multi-color print. I don't have all of the nuanced colors, but I'll see what I can come up with.

#4008 1 year ago

Grab the STL folder again if that is what you were using. Updated it just now as a setting was missed (never really use STL format). I also pre-scaled it 25.4x and the goggles are now all joined into the alien on vertex mesh. Sometimes non-triangles have issue so it's all triangulated too.

13
#4009 1 year ago

Topper for MET. Printed on the Bambu X1 in 3 parts (ME/TALLI/CA)
IMG_2336 (resized).JPEGIMG_2336 (resized).JPEG

#4010 1 year ago
Quoted from dpadam450:

Grab the STL folder again if that is what you were using. Updated it just now as a setting was missed (never really use STL format). I also pre-scaled it 25.4x and the goggles are now all joined into the alien on vertex mesh. Sometimes non-triangles have issue so it's all triangulated too.

Perfect, thank you.

#4011 1 year ago

This may just not be a good model for FDM printing. Probably going to need someone with a resin printer to give it a try.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#4012 1 year ago
Quoted from Sleal16:

Making a "quick" IJ topper for a local friend. Statues in resin and will the the ornate trim in the X1C. Havent tried gold chrome paint effects, so will see how that turns out this weekend. I do know that I might have rushed it a bit in the gloss black base I just put on with an airbrush. Its lacquer and dont think I have thinner to clean my nozzle =/
[quoted image]

Funny,I'm going to try the gold painting technique this weekend also for the idol. "Quick,if you do it before I do I'll throw you the whip!"

Resized_20230210_105145 (resized).jpegResized_20230210_105145 (resized).jpeg
#4013 1 year ago
Quoted from Sleal16:

Making a "quick" IJ topper for a local friend. Statues in resin and will the the ornate trim in the X1C. Havent tried gold chrome paint effects, so will see how that turns out this weekend. I do know that I might have rushed it a bit in the gloss black base I just put on with an airbrush. Its lacquer and dont think I have thinner to clean my nozzle =/
[quoted image]

I’m dying to see this when complete! Or even some in-progress shots!

#4014 1 year ago
Quoted from usul27:

Topper for MET. Printed on the Bambu X1 in 3 parts (ME/TALLI/CA)

That looks amazing! Do you have a pic of how you did the lighting/wiring and routed the wires? I am struggling to figure that out for a topper I am designing

#4015 1 year ago

Rather than buying a cool plate, decided to make my own.. Bought a thin sheet of spring steel in the exact size I needed from onlinemetals.com, chamfered the back corners and applied a sheet of PEI. So far printing good.

pei (resized).jpgpei (resized).jpg
#4016 1 year ago
Quoted from usul27:

Topper for MET. Printed on the Bambu X1 in 3 parts (ME/TALLI/CA)
[quoted image]

Looks great !
Is the white just regular white pla ? What thickness ?
Or is it transparent pla ?

#4017 1 year ago

Supports ? We don’t need no stinking supports!

A5DD7A80-57F4-4CC2-9D11-8064F8C1EB22 (resized).jpegA5DD7A80-57F4-4CC2-9D11-8064F8C1EB22 (resized).jpeg
#4018 1 year ago
cheating_boyfriend_printer (resized).pngcheating_boyfriend_printer (resized).png
#4019 1 year ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Quoted from usul27:
Topper for MET. Printed on the Bambu X1 in 3 parts (ME/TALLI/CA)
[quoted image]

Looks great !
Is the white just regular white pla ? What thickness ?
Or is it transparent pla ?

It's 1mm transparent PLA

#4020 1 year ago

Received my second AMS unit yesterday but didn't get installed until late last night. Install was a breeze and everything was automatically recognized. Just initiated my first print that will use both AMS units (6 colors).

IMG_8727 (resized).JPGIMG_8727 (resized).JPG
#4021 1 year ago

I'm a 3D rookie and I'm noticing something strange while printing the Millennium Falcon. It's producing these strange little noodles on fine details. Some even fall off onto the bed. I haven't had these on any other prints.

Thoughts?

16780655850157404668755564987901 (resized).jpg16780655850157404668755564987901 (resized).jpg
#4022 1 year ago
Quoted from No_Skill:

I'm a 3D rookie and I'm noticing something strange while printing the Millennium Falcon. It's producing these strange little noodles on fine details. Some even fall off onto the bed. I haven't had these on any other prints.
Thoughts?[quoted image]

those are support layers. if you haven't encountered them yet, then you haven't printed anything with more than a 45 degree overhang

#4023 1 year ago

Finally got the FF alien printed. Did it in 6 colors on my Bambu Carbon X1. What I will say is that it came out pretty nice, but took over 9 hours and the filament change waste was quite excessive for such a small model.

As most of you know, the close-up camera shows all of the details but a distance of a couple of feet or further the model looks really good.

IMG_8735 (resized).JPGIMG_8735 (resized).JPGIMG_8736 (resized).JPGIMG_8736 (resized).JPGIMG_8737 (resized).JPGIMG_8737 (resized).JPG

#4024 1 year ago

Hi,

I was wondering if there are any 3D printing experts that would be able to make a White Water waterfall support, or topper stand (# 03-8745) (pictured)?

Also, would anyone be able to 3D print the shield for the White Water waterfall lights (# 01-10889)? It's normally metal and blocks the 16 topper lights from shining at the player, but I thought a 3D printed one might work.

Thank you

Pic (resized).jpgPic (resized).jpg
#4025 1 year ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Hi,
I was wondering if there are any 3D printing experts that would be able to make a White Water waterfall support, or topper stand (# 03-8745) (pictured)?
Also, would anyone be able to 3D print the shield for the White Water waterfall lights (# 01-10889)? It's normally metal and blocks the 16 topper lights from shining at the player, but I thought a 3D printed one might work.
Thank you
[quoted image]

Challenge will be having access to the OEM parts to measure/copy. I'm guessing they would need to be done in at least two sections and glued together.

#4026 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Finally got the FF alien printed. Did it in 6 colors on my Bambu Carbon X1. What I will say is that it came out pretty nice, but took over 9 hours and the filament change waste was quite excessive for such a small model.
As most of you know, the close-up camera shows all of the details but a distance of a couple of feet or further the model looks really good.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks nice, but Resin is the way to go for sure. Unless you could find other models to print to flush that waste into, I can't see doing it on an mmu setup.

#4027 1 year ago

Marco had the support for $50. Probably similar to what a printed one would cost ya

Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Hi,
I was wondering if there are any 3D printing experts that would be able to make a White Water waterfall support, or topper stand (# 03-8745) (pictured)?
Also, would anyone be able to 3D print the shield for the White Water waterfall lights (# 01-10889)? It's normally metal and blocks the 16 topper lights from shining at the player, but I thought a 3D printed one might work.
Thank you
[quoted image]

#4028 1 year ago

Got a Foo Fighters coming....need to make more pin shoes. I designed these to have a small lip at the top so when you jack up the game they don't fall off.
https://www.printables.com/model/272583-pinball-leg-leveler-caster/files

IMG_2661 (resized).JPGIMG_2661 (resized).JPG
#4029 1 year ago

nice! What do the shoes do? Prevent movement during a nudge?

#4030 1 year ago

Ok, finally got a time scheduled to visit a friend of mine who teaches at a school that has a 3D printing lab. Gonna have a couple new parts printed for testing measurements, fitment, and for basic proof of concept. He said they prefer STL files. Got those as I'm using Fusion360 to draw up my parts.

I'm just curious if you all could give me a few tips on what to look/ask for in regards to the print. Even though it's just for testing, it's a part that has to support a decent amount of weight, so I assume a 100% infill is preferred. I also assume PLA should be decently strong enough, but is there something stronger that if they have it, I should use it? This will not be the final part so it doesn't have to work for very long, but I'd guess it would be strong enough that it won't break right away, if at all.

Anything with the STL file that I need to prepare or do beforehand? Any particular type/revision I need to save it as?

I'm almost completely green with this stuff, so any information will be beneficial. Thanks!

#4031 1 year ago
Quoted from prentice:

nice! What do the shoes do? Prevent movement during a nudge?

Yeppers. They will prevent wear marks on a hard surface floor when you shake the machine. It also keeps you honest in not sliding the legs if you get little too excited.

#4032 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Ok, finally got a time scheduled to visit a friend of mine who teaches at a school that has a 3D printing lab. Gonna have a couple new parts printed for testing measurements, fitment, and for basic proof of concept. He said they prefer STL files. Got those as I'm using Fusion360 to draw up my parts.
I'm just curious if you all could give me a few tips on what to look/ask for in regards to the print. Even though it's just for testing, it's a part that has to support a decent amount of weight, so I assume a 100% infill is preferred. I also assume PLA should be decently strong enough, but is there something stronger that if they have it, I should use it? This will not be the final part so it doesn't have to work for very long, but I'd guess it would be strong enough that it won't break right away, if at all.
Anything with the STL file that I need to prepare or do beforehand? Any particular type/revision I need to save it as?
I'm almost completely green with this stuff, so any information will be beneficial. Thanks!

- the there is different pla's so really depends for strength comparison
- 0.2mm layers as opposed to 0.1mm layers - the 0.2mm will print heaps faster but your print lab will know all that.

- 80% fill should be fine as 100% will take a while
- your design print orientation will also play a big part of the part strength - eg say you designed a scaled down pinball leg and printed it vertical in 80-100% fill and then printed the same file horizontally with the same fill. then you stand the leg vertical and put force downwards and gave it a sideways shove the vertical printed will be weaker.

- save as a .stl
- for fit testing allow a variance of +- 0.2mm

#4033 1 year ago

speaking of STL's, I'm sort of glad that Bambu slicer supports STEP files.. no more facets. yes yes I know if you bump up the detail enough, you'll never see the facets, but why should I have to export a 40mb STL file just to get smooth surfaces?

#4034 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Ok, finally got a time scheduled to visit a friend of mine who teaches at a school that has a 3D printing lab. Gonna have a couple new parts printed for testing measurements, fitment, and for basic proof of concept. He said they prefer STL files. Got those as I'm using Fusion360 to draw up my parts.
I'm just curious if you all could give me a few tips on what to look/ask for in regards to the print. Even though it's just for testing, it's a part that has to support a decent amount of weight, so I assume a 100% infill is preferred. I also assume PLA should be decently strong enough, but is there something stronger that if they have it, I should use it? This will not be the final part so it doesn't have to work for very long, but I'd guess it would be strong enough that it won't break right away, if at all.
Anything with the STL file that I need to prepare or do beforehand? Any particular type/revision I need to save it as?
I'm almost completely green with this stuff, so any information will be beneficial. Thanks!

I don't know what you whipped up (I looked back a couple of pages and didn't see anything), but perhaps if you'd like to share the stl with a 3D guru here via PM so they can load it into their slicer to give it a 'once over', that might be helpful. When it comes to strength, besides infill, the orientation of how it is printed is very important. Supports, while not really related to strength, will be affected by printing orientation too. That can make the difference between a clean print and a mess.

An image posted here would be nice too.

#4035 1 year ago

First printer with a BL Touch z-probe. Didn't last more than 2 months before the bottom part of the tip snapped. I can only assume it happened because it dropped during a print and snapped off(?) I see they provide 3 extras. Is it really that common or tips on preventing? I noticed because I went to run a print and the z-axis wanting to drive right into the bed. Put a nice dent where the nozzle came drilling down. Pretty annoying.

#4036 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I don't know what you whipped up (I looked back a couple of pages and didn't see anything), but perhaps if you'd like to share the stl with a 3D guru here via PM so they can load it into their slicer to give it a 'once over', that might be helpful. When it comes to strength, besides infill, the orientation of how it is printed is very important. Supports, while not really related to strength, will be affected by printing orientation too. That can make the difference between a clean print and a mess.
An image posted here would be nice too.

Well, the guy who's doing the printing for me is the 3D printing/manufacturing professor at a local polytechnic/STEM high school. I'd hope he knows all that stuff!

I also really appreciate the offer, too. Normally, I'd be more than happy to share what it is and send it for review, but there are two reasons why I can't:

1) Ultimately, the piece will be laser cut and formed from steel, so the printing in plastic is just for proof of concept and perfecting the measurements of things. If being made of plastic was strong enough for its application, I'd just release it since I know people would just scan it and print it for themselves anyway.

2) This part will work on a nice range of games that a ton of people have and could sell really well as I believe it to be extremely useful and helpful. I'd hate for something like that to get out and have someone else start making it and selling it before I had my shot at it. Once I do start selling it, I'm certain this will happen anyway, but it'd be nice to at least get the credit(and a little change in my pocket) for the idea.

Nothing personal, no offense intended, but thanks for the offer!

#4037 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Well, the guy who's doing the printing for me is the 3D printing/manufacturing professor at a local polytechnic/STEM high school. I'd hope he knows all that stuff!
I also really appreciate the offer, too. Normally, I'd be more than happy to share what it is and send it for review, but there are two reasons why I can't:
1) Ultimately, the piece will be laser cut and formed from steel, so the printing in plastic is just for proof of concept and perfecting the measurements of things. If being made of plastic was strong enough for its application, I'd just release it since I know people would just scan it and print it for themselves anyway.
2) This part will work on a nice range of games that a ton of people have and could sell really well as I believe it to be extremely useful and helpful. I'd hate for something like that to get out and have someone else start making it and selling it before I had my shot at it. Once I do start selling it, I'm certain this will happen anyway, but it'd be nice to at least get the credit(and a little change in my pocket) for the idea.
Nothing personal, no offense intended, but thanks for the offer!

Understood that you don't want to share your idea until it's ready to go out of the door in case it's reproduced or copied before it gets to market. I've had a couple of things ripped off already, and coincidentally 2 different pinball manufacturers have just released things on their latest machines which I've been working on for many months and just getting the finer details sorted.

What I would suggest is going on to a generic 3D printing forum and discuss there. That way you could PM someone who will have no interest (or contacts) whatsoever in pinball and thus not steal your idea.

(I did something similar with my carriers - found someone not into pinball who had half a dozen printers, and sent him the STLs to print for me. Zero chance that he would rip me off for 2 reasons. Firstly he didn't have the contacts to market them, secondly there wasn't enough profit to make it worthwhile for him to go searching. Got me a decent stock ready to go)

Setting a price point is what is going to the most important factor here. Too high and people will go to the effort of copying and reproducing (especially if it's purely a physical item), too low and it's not worth your time and effort. Just don't get greedy.

Good luck and looking forward to seeing what you've come up with.

#4038 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Well, the guy who's doing the printing for me is the 3D printing/manufacturing professor at a local polytechnic/STEM high school. I'd hope he knows all that stuff!
I also really appreciate the offer, too. Normally, I'd be more than happy to share what it is and send it for review, but there are two reasons why I can't:
1) Ultimately, the piece will be laser cut and formed from steel, so the printing in plastic is just for proof of concept and perfecting the measurements of things. If being made of plastic was strong enough for its application, I'd just release it since I know people would just scan it and print it for themselves anyway.
2) This part will work on a nice range of games that a ton of people have and could sell really well as I believe it to be extremely useful and helpful. I'd hate for something like that to get out and have someone else start making it and selling it before I had my shot at it. Once I do start selling it, I'm certain this will happen anyway, but it'd be nice to at least get the credit(and a little change in my pocket) for the idea.
Nothing personal, no offense intended, but thanks for the offer!

No offense taken. I wondered about that concern when typing up my comment. Good luck on your endeavor!

WJxxxx had a good compromise.

#4039 1 year ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

This part will work on a nice range of games that a ton of people have and could sell really well as I believe it to be extremely useful and helpful.

This sounds intriguing and I hope it all works out for you. I'm looking forward to seeing what this is!

#4040 1 year ago

Hey, I am looking for a crypt roof for Elvira HOH. Any of you out have one and or can print one?

#4041 1 year ago
Quoted from JKKeogh:

Hey, I am looking for a crypt roof for Elvira HOH. Any of you out have one and or can print one?

that can be arranged

EHOH roof (resized).pngEHOH roof (resized).png
#4042 1 year ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

Understood that you don't want to share your idea until it's ready to go out of the door in case it's reproduced or copied before it gets to market. I've had a couple of things ripped off already, and coincidentally 2 different pinball manufacturers have just released things on their latest machines which I've been working on for many months and just getting the finer details sorted.
What I would suggest is going on to a generic 3D printing forum and discuss there. That way you could PM someone who will have no interest (or contacts) whatsoever in pinball and thus not steal your idea.
(I did something similar with my carriers - found someone not into pinball who had half a dozen printers, and sent him the STLs to print for me. Zero chance that he would rip me off for 2 reasons. Firstly he didn't have the contacts to market them, secondly there wasn't enough profit to make it worthwhile for him to go searching. Got me a decent stock ready to go)
Setting a price point is what is going to the most important factor here. Too high and people will go to the effort of copying and reproducing (especially if it's purely a physical item), too low and it's not worth your time and effort. Just don't get greedy.
Good luck and looking forward to seeing what you've come up with.

Quoted from mbwalker:

No offense taken. I wondered about that concern when typing up my comment. Good luck on your endeavor!
WJxxxx had a good compromise.

Quoted from mostater:

This sounds intriguing and I hope it all works out for you. I'm looking forward to seeing what this is!

Thanks, all! I am taking in all your suggestions and ideas and will convey them to the guys helping me with the print. I will definitely let you all know how things go. I'm excited, too, and when it's all said and done, I'll be starting a for sale thread for them. I actually have another mod that's already done, too, that I'll be selling as well. Gotta figure out if I should start my own brand or sell them through an established company like Pinball Life. This is all-new territory for me so I'm trying to take baby steps in the right direction.

#4043 1 year ago

Any suggestions for software to learn if I want to make 2D drawings for parts to send to SendCutSend? Everything I need to do will be cut from sheet goods.

The only 3D drawing I've done is in SketchUp, but I use it to make woodworking plans. I am able to export DWG from that but SendCutSend complains the files are incomplete.

#4044 1 year ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Hi,
I was wondering if there are any 3D printing experts that would be able to make a White Water waterfall support, or topper stand (# 03-8745) (pictured)?
Also, would anyone be able to 3D print the shield for the White Water waterfall lights (# 01-10889)? It's normally metal and blocks the 16 topper lights from shining at the player, but I thought a 3D printed one might work.
Thank you
[quoted image]

If you still need help, please email [email protected] for assistance. We might be able to help

#4045 1 year ago
Quoted from radium:

Any suggestions for software to learn if I want to make 2D drawings for parts to send to SendCutSend? Everything I need to do will be cut from sheet goods.
The only 3D drawing I've done is in SketchUp, but I use it to make woodworking plans. I am able to export DWG from that but SendCutSend complains the files are incomplete.

You must not have closed loops (all lines joined together). Wish draftsight was still free, they pretty much killed the autocad clone market.

#4046 1 year ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

You must not have closed loops (all lines joined together)

Yeah, and all I did was draw one rectangle, export DXF, and test in SendCutSend.

#4047 1 year ago

Finished all the 3D printed parts for the Tag Team topper, and got it all mounted to the acrylic sheet.

tagteam (resized).jpgtagteam (resized).jpg
#4048 1 year ago

I bought a dragon tank for my Bond Pro, I saw the mods that people made in the marketplace adding lights and such, I felt like it needed some fire.

Wanted to see what I could manage without adding additional wiring.

Pretty excited with how this came out, now I just need to secure it.

69FE9784-17D8-4FBA-B556-04ADBBBA01A6 (resized).jpeg69FE9784-17D8-4FBA-B556-04ADBBBA01A6 (resized).jpegEC1C17A8-1F0F-4576-9782-AD97BCBB7BBA (resized).jpegEC1C17A8-1F0F-4576-9782-AD97BCBB7BBA (resized).jpeg
#4049 1 year ago
Quoted from scottieIA:

Got a Foo Fighters coming....need to make more pin shoes. I designed these to have a small lip at the top so when you jack up the game they don't fall off.
https://www.printables.com/model/272583-pinball-leg-leveler-caster/files
[quoted image]

Pretty cool. What filament do you use? Do they grip like the silicone shoes grip?

#4050 1 year ago

Anyone use the FLSun V400?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 49.99
There are 6,472 posts in this topic. You are on page 81 of 130.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby/page/81?hl=xdetroit and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.