Just finished new version where I made the hole size adjustments and spread out the tool holders for easier access.

If you want to give it a try, you can download from here: https://www.printables.com/model/400651-bambu-carbon-x1-ams-top-tool-storage

Will be my next Print job on the X1 soon, thanks.

Thought I’d share recent pic of threepo build.

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Awesome job!

Just finished designing a replacement Last Action Hero topper for a client (I'm assuming the original in good condition is impossible to find). Will be done in 3 sections with translucent blue and red for the lenses (silver for middle section). I already offer the center decal for it, so that was a gimmie. Looking forward to printing this one.

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I have my printer in the garage, on a table that's not very sturdy. Whilst printing it shakes a bit.

Would it help with printing quality if I screw some thick pieces of wood in the brick wall and either secure the table and/or printer to the wall so it really can't vibrate ?

Good or bad idea ?

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Mine sits on top of a very stable and heavy cabinet so shaking is minimal. Instead of securing the printer in some way, I suggest you secure the table to the floor and wall to make it more sturdy so that all of the vibration is not directly transferred to it.

I don't know who you are. I don't know what you 3D print. If you are looking for models to solve your 3D challenges I can tell you that I don't have all the answers, but what I do have are a particular set of tools to help me with my printing. Tools I have acquired over a very long time in the hobby. Tools that make me a good example for people like you. If you print this Bambu Carbon X1 tool caddy now that'll be the end of it. You will no longer have to keep looking for your tools when you need them, your tools will have a home, but if you don't print and use this tool caddy, you will misplace your tools, and you will lose them.

https://www.printables.com/model/400651-bambu-carbon-x1-ams-top-tool-storage

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Just an FYI for those printing brackets for coil cooling fans...

If you mount them to the coil stops, they will eventually break. Better to mount them to the feet of the flipper assembly, i.e. where the flipper assembly mounts to the playfield.

Have my Bambu p1p since yesterday.
Put it on the floor so it now sits stable.

Demo trex puzzle printed very well.

Now I try to print a small object I designed and it always fails, after 1 to 2 mm height it doesn't stick to the bed anymore.

Any suggestions what to change ?
More infill ? Slower speed?

My previous printer had a glass heated bed and there usually things stuck too well.
Already tried a glue stick, makes no difference.
And re calibrated the bed also.

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What filament and what build plate? Have you cleaned the build plate with alcohol?

FYI, I've printed things less than 1mm and they adhere perfectly at full speed. BTW, I'm now using the high temp plate exclusively for my PLA prints. I haven't had the need to use the textured plate yet, and I don't like the glue stick approach to the cool plate.

I've printed some pretty thin parts. Remember to choose your bed (should be textured), I think cool plate is default. This does seem to make a difference.

Default bambu white pla filament, default textured plate.
I printed a benchy afterwards and that went well.

It's just with this one stl that it always fails after about one mm. Will try other slicer settings.

Are you sure the STL file isn't missing a layer or trying to print a higher layer w/o support?

Bambu X1 AMS Hubs are back in stock. I just ordered a second AMS + Hub (required to add additional AMS units). Bring on the 8 color prints! Actually, I have very few prints with more than 4 colors (currently), but just looking forward to the convenience of minimizing color swaps on a constant basis. Who knows, I might add a third or even fourth AMS in the future.

A lot of people, myself included, put a large paving stone on the table to sit the printer on. This seems to dampen the vibration a lot.

Also just looking at the Canadian Bambu store and it looks like they raised the price of the X-1 Carbon combo by around $100. Did they do the same everywhere?

Current US Pricing:
X1C: $1199
X1C w/AMS: $1449

The combo is priced the same as it was a month ago when I ordered mine.

Not sure why I just ordered another AMS + hub but I did. Thanks! I think!?

If it is nothing proprietary, I'd be happy to print it to see what my results are.

I am trying to get the Diamond Jack I bought 13 years ago spiffed up and working, finally.

Holding me back is the fact that on the Roto Target, the card faces all have the paint deeply worn through to the metal at ball height, to the point where the metal is grooved, making me nervous that the stickers I bought to cover this flaw will not stay stuck.

I was thinking maybe 3D printing a frame for each card that would clip over each target and sticker would preclude them falling off.

So, has anyone already done anything along these lines? No luck searching... Thanks in advance.

Succes! And a beginner mistake: by default the slicer had selected the cool plate instead of the textured plate.

And to get back on topic about pinball mods: these are the buoys for around the flashers on Baywatch. I had posted in the Baywatch owners thread before.

At the moment I put the model for sale on shapeways, but I don't mind sharing the model with people that want to print it for themselves.
It's just that I don't want them to resell it (unless with my permission). Any idea how to do this, what license?

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As far as the wrong plate goes, did you not receive a warning before the print started? When I have a plate in the printer that differs from what I had picked in the slicer when generating g-code, I always get a warning on the screen before the print starts telling me this and giving an option of proceeding or cancelling the job.

If you openly share the file, it will get out. My suggestion is to not make it easy for unscrupulous people. The pinball community is so much bigger than Pinside, and there is no way to control what others will do. As I mentioned before, people can see your design and obviously copy it but why make it easy for them? If you do want to share a file with a Pinside member that you trust, then my suggestion would be to have them PM you, get their agreement in writing via email that they will only print the file for themselves the permanently delete it, and then share the file(s) with them directly. I've also had projects where I have co-designed mods with another Pinsider. In those cases we set the rules in advance as far as file sharing, selling, profit sharing, etc., and I will say that in ever instance the people I have partnered with have always been true to our agreement (as well as me doing the same).

I previously would follow the steps I outlined above but I've even been burned doing it that way (with Photoshop files for graphics), so my approach is to just not share the source files for anything I'm currently producing/selling. The one carveout is when somebody commissions me to design/create something for them. In those cases, since they have the initial idea and are paying me to design and create it, I will share the original files with them with the understanding that I reserve the right to offer the same item to others but that I will not distribute the source materials without their permission (they are free to do with the files whatever they want). There have been a handful of times when we made an agreement that I would not even share the created item with anyone else, and in those cases I was fine with that given how customized/personalized the items were.

Hide a unique watermark inside where you could never see it unless you cut up the model and then you know who shared it if it ever gets out. Not sure you'd have any recourse but it would be fun

First thing I would do with the model is bring it into CAD, examine the layers, and fill any internal gaps like that before I sliced and printed. I've done it several times before with models I've downloaded on share sites either to get rid of external markings or internal holes/gaps in the model.

I am not sure this is right. I have seen errors during slicing when the wrong plate was set for the selected filament (i.e. PLA on the engineering plate). But it had no problem allowing me to send a print meant for the hot plate when the cold plate was installed. Maybe it's supposed to catch it and I just ran into a bug.

Oh, and on the topic of Bambu additional build plates; I looked at multiple plate holders similar to the one you posted. My solution is to store them inside the enclosure on the "floor". I haven't double checked if there would be an interference issue with the bed all the way down, but I would rarely, if ever print to the full Z height. Having them in the enclosure saves a bit of bench space and the potential to knock them on the floor.

To begin with, I am on the most current version of Bambu Slicer and printer firmware. Just happened to me again today. I have a few models that I originally created with the cold plate selected but had the high temp plate on the printer. The printer goes through its entire prep routine then stops and displays a message on the screen. Something to the extent of "The build plate selected in the gcode file does not match the one installed". From there you can cancel or continue the print using the currently installed plate.

Yeah I am the latest as well. That is good to hear and interesting that mine allowed the wrong thing to happen. I'll have to see if I can recreate the scenario. Thanks for the info.

-Rob

Hey guys, I have a design question. I am working on a topper for my Cyclone. It is designed around the 8 inch model I purchased. My question is about connecting the parts (its in 3 parts as it is 24 inches wide) - Ideally it should lock into place so that once assembled it is reasonably solid. I originally thought of gluing the sides together but I doubt that is strong enough. I could build a wall on both parts with a screw hole but it wouldn't look that great. What do you guys think?

In the pic you can see I put a notch in the base to get it from slipping but the pieces are simply butted together

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I don't understand your reason for not wanting to glue the pieces together. Another option would be to cut a piece of thin plywood similar dimensions as the base and screw each of the sections down onto it. Paint the exposed edges of the plywood black or whatever color the backbox is. Size it so that the plywood extends beyond the model and use holes in the plywood to mount to top of backbox.

Got Topper from a German user:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5875913

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Same for me. I have a p1p, this only comes with a textured plate. Can't install other plates and I'm even not sure if the printer can detect them ?

My mistake was I sliced it for cold plate by accident, and it started this print on the textured plate. Probably didn't heat the bed so the pla didn't attach well ?

Anyway after 2 days of testing with it I'm very happy I bought it.

Also, I have the X1 Carbon. Do you have the same or a P2P?

Same as you. Remember our PM conversation when I convinced you to buy yours? haha

Oh, sorry. It's all a blur now.

I'm at 206 print hours already and have another 70+ hours queued. However, I had nearly 15,000 hours (24,000 meters of filament) on my Prusa MK3S+, so still a little ways to go to catch up to that.

That reminds me, does the Bambu track filament usage or just print time?

Cyanoacrylate glue is pretty strong with PLA. That in conjunction with some pegs and holes in the design is usually pretty strong.

A dovetail insert from the back where it's not visible would be really strong and the glue would just lock it in place.

thats a great idea, thanks! I will put in some horizontal pegs and holes so there is additional strength when it is super-glued.

Super glue doesn't really create a very good bond with PLA/PETG. SCIGRIP 16 Acrylic Cement on the other hand is a very good plastic welding cement.

I've found it bonds pretty well with PLA, but it definitely doesn't weld the plastic like some of the specialty stuff can. I think it would be enough for his application though. I've used it for years with PLA and never had any issues.

Just finished printing all the letters for a topper. I am thinking of having them hover on a peice of white acrylic. Can't decide if I like the letters all in a row or stacked. What do others think looks better?

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So after running a ton of stuff through this Bambu X1C, I remain impressed. The speed is outstanding and it seems to eat whatever filament I throw at it. The two things I wish were better are 1) bridging (that I whined about previously ) and 2) top surface finish. The side surfaces are super super nice, better than on my Prusa. But the top surfaces kinda suck. Not sure if I need to slow down for the tops or start ironing? I've read where people don't get great ironing results out of the X1C?

Any suggestions? It's a great workhorse so far, if I could tune in bridging and make some nice top surfaces it would be a super home run.

I’ve had good luck with bridging and seen some amazing results on the X1C with PLA. Though I have the fans mostly off while printing PLA you can use the aux fan to help by placing your model near it if applicable. All stuff you already know I’m sure.

For top surface finish turn on ironing and set *ironing flow* to 21% and you will get amazing results. I use it all the time. I primarily use Polymaker PLA. Here is an image of ironing on a multi-color print at that setting as well as only 5% infill on a 10" wide model so it bridged large gaps in support flawlessly to lay down top surfaces.

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If you have looked through this thread about 5-6 mods. All for free to further the hobby.

My top surfaces have been perfect, and I would say equal to what my Prusa produces (FYI, I typically don't iron large surface areas, but do utilize ironing requently). What I did notice is that Bambu Studio only has 3 top surfaces by default in some of the standard print profiles, but I always change it to 5 or 6 (Prusa Slicer default). Attached is a photo of a large top surface area I printed last night that is not ironed (the artifacts you see at bottom are reflections on the camera lens and not in the print).

As far as bridging goes, things seem to be on-par with my Prusa with the models I've done so far.
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You must admit there is some ambiguity in the title of this thread, "3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby".

Which hobby? The 3D printing hobby or the pinball hobby? I would argue that the title alone points more to bettering the 3D hobby, but when you consider the overall context of where the thread exist then maybe it could mean the pinball hobby. However, this cannot be assumed given the vast multitude of threads on this forum that are not pinball related other than people who own pinball machines like discussing them.

Anyone got any 3d printed mods i could do for my high speed?

That's funny, I never considered 3D printing as a hobby. I see it just as a tool to make what i need. I guess i could see home shop machining as a hobby, but that seems more like a bunch of tools to make engines, locomotives, models etc...

But then again i don't think i have ever downloaded anything to print. I just make stuff, mostly Tools and Fixtures, or organizational stuff.

It's definitely a hobby for some of us lol. I've printed more novelty penises than I'd care to admit. From little penises that stick on light switches to a giant penis with a slinky body. It's a great hobby if you like plastic penises.

LOL

Yes.

I vote row. Nice job BTW