Please share when you do. I just printed a model that takes about 13 hours on Prusa MK3, but only 4-1/2 hours on the Bambu. On the MK3 my supports pop off easy and clean (sometimes the supports stick to the bed when I pull up the model), but I spent 10 minutes with pliers and a razor knife trying to remove and clean up the Bambu print (I was expecting it to be a lot easier with the setting changes I had made).

That is awesome; I have been working on my own mod for a while and have not been posting as much kudos in this thread as I should have. So many cool projects (the Godzilla pro plastics for the Mechagodzilla area is just one!).

Quickly running out of the PLA my X1-Carbon came with. Do y’all have favorites for filament brands? Does it even matter? Or should I just buy whatever is cheap from Amazon?

I buy from amazon when I need a specific color, or didn't keep enough stock of white/grey/black. If you want cheap good PLA+ filament, I highly recommend IIDMAX:
https://iiidmax.com

Cheaper if you order a 10pack ($12/spool), sometimes they run sales where it's only $10/spool.

IF you're ordering from amazon, brands I highly reccommend:
Polymaker, Inland, hatchbox, 3D solutech, overture (most recommended). Not oonly does overture print good, it's a very cleanly wrapped spool.

Thanks, this is a nice bit of information. I just inserted an SD card today and was sending files .

Extreme pla and nano diamond is intriguing.. fancy marketing names? Or actually stronger than +?

I’ve used quite a few brands but pretty much settled on Polymaker, Polyterra PLA variants. The Bambu slicer also has presets for Plyamaker but most interesting is when you look at the details for these presets and the volumetric flow rates set for PM and the BL filaments. Polymaker is set @ 22 and BL filament 21 where as “generic” PLA is 12. This leads me to believe these are high flow filaments and have always performed spectacularly. At the end of the day most filaments are great anymore will work well so try a few and choose what you like.

I will also say that I began using Polymaker filament before I bought my Bambu X1. Just happened that they play well with this printer.

I primarily use Prusament, 3D Solutech, and recently I've bought a couple of spools of Sunlu PLA+ and been very happy with it. I've already run a ton of these filaments (well, maybe not a ton, but probably a couple of kilograms), and all have performed flawlessly.

For those Bambu owners who haven't noticed, the default wall generator mode in Bambu Slicer is "Classic" instead of "Arachne". I've been using Arachne ever since it came out in Prusa Slicer (their default), and in general it yields better results with details and often even reduces print times. Not sure why Bambu has chosen to not make it the default setting as of yet, but I change in on every print (still working on my own custom profiles).

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One more tip on settings. I've found the prime tower to be unnecessary in my multi-color prints thus far, but default setting is enabled. I always uncheck now to save both time and filament.

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Very nice. Hard to tell, but did you basically print a housing and then a top flat plate that glued into place?

Extra large print beds have always been somewhat of a desire of mine for certain projects, but I just don't have the room for one. The Bambu is a terrific printer, I still think the Prusa MK3S still has it's place, and of course there are a multitude of other printers out there that produce fantastic results. I don't think any of us new Bambu owners are being critical of others (not saying you implied such, but with all of the posts it could be perceived that way) - we're just all excited about our new toy/tool, and learning together.

With all of your illuminated topper printing, what have you found are the best print settings for the lit areas (resolution, fill type, thickness, ironing or not, etc.)?

BTW, if you want a vibrant solid orange, Prusament is your only options. Over time, I've probably bought seven or eight different orange PLA spools, and they all pale (literally) in comparison to the Prusament PLA orange (the PETG is even brighter). Tip: Shipping when buying filament from Prusa is the same (or nearly the same) when you purchase in bundles of two spools instead of odd numbers.

Really appreciate the suggestions for filament from all and especially the settings tips from Mr_Tantrum thank you all so much!

I’m looking to get into 3D printing by the summer but until then I’m looking to recruit someone to print me 2 brackets .Just something that mounts flat to the underside wood with 2 small screws .It’s main function will be a a face that’s angled upward lighting through a clear target bank to illuminate them .I need them for a 4 and 6 inch light strips like these to mount to .I would gladly pay the fee of course Thank you for any help.

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. Would have to bend it on a 45 but yeah that would work .Just looking for a clean look but maybe I’ll do that as a temp until I get one .Thanks .

PM me and we can discuss if you still need someone to help.

Will do

Will do; almost ready! Could be installed in the game as soon as tomorrow. But then will need to be tested...

So finally had my first failure on the bambu, can't get a part to stick using clear filament. Even tried increasing raft width, didn't matter. I could literally see the surface slowly lift as it printed layers. Thought maybe it was being picky because of aftermarket filament, printing IIMAX white just fine. I've printed these parts on my enders, thinking it may not like the textured surface. May have to source a smooth PEI sheet for it.

FYI: I've printed over a dozen pieces on my Bambu in 3D Solutech Premium PLA clear on the high temp plate, and have had nothing but success. Some where small parts and others were large flat surfaces. I even printed a few pieces on the cool plate before I switch over to the high temp plate and didn't have any issues.

I have not tried the textured plate yet (I do have one).

Does the printer give you an error about having the incorrect sheet installed for PLA when printing on the high temp plate?

No, I just set high temp plate in Bambu slicer, slice, and then send to printer. BTW, the high temp plate has this stamped on it | PLA/PETG/ABS/TPU/PC. However, as I noted in a previous post, I also set the case fan speed to about 50% and save as a new PLA profile. Otherwise, it sounds like a jet is taking off in the room.
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Thanks. When I set mine to engineering plate with PLA material it does not allow me to slice the model but if I choose high temp it does. I believe though they are one and the same. I am an early backer and they have changed the plates and profiles a bit sine I got mine so its labeled differently.

No, the high temp and engineering plates are two different surfaces. The high temp plate (like the cold) is an adhesive applied sheet on top of the engineering plate. Ignore what it says, you do not use a glue stick on it.
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Would something like this work for now? https://www.homedepot.com/p/TRIMACO-5-8-in-x-5-8-in-x-8-ft-Self-Stick-Plastic-Corner-Guard-Residential-11834A/202061361

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Had you tried any of that visionminer nano polymer adhesive before?

Right. They used to be the same but Bambu made some big changes since the initial launch and added the high temp plate sticker option. The engineering plate used to be for high temp as well. I can take a pic of the plate that came with mine last July and you’ll see the differences.

I just hit 400 hours on my X1

No, I have not.

That's 800+ hours on most 3D printers.

93 hours on mine and it's just over a week old.

Too late, I already designed something for him.

The models (2 widths to accommodate various target banks) have a gap at the bottom to allow for clearance over other hardware, I added side panels to help with light bleed, and holes on either side for running wiring in either direction. Printing the prototype right now.

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Just ordered a bambu p1p. Hope it's as good as I read online
Will certainly be an huge upgrade to my 7 year old printer that I broke
Didn't use that a lot, only recently started again modeling some pinball mods.

Kudos Mr_Tantrum for helping Kkloss out.

Very happy with what Mr Tantrum has come up with .I will post pictures here when complete ,both top and bottom sides .

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Nice, someone did that for Ghostbusters Scoleri clear targets but never incorporated a shield on the bottom.

I've been humming along just fine for years with a modded Maker Select Plus, but ya'll have really sold me on a Bambu. Now to decide on which version to order...

Printing my first model ever with tree supports. Curious how it will turn out.

Not a fan of them, but some 3D makers swear by them. They are application dependent IMO, but I have yet to find a need for them. Hope they work for you, take some pics and post here.

Tree supports are looking good 75% into the print. This is a 7.5" Titansaurus for a customer. I printed it in pieces as recommended but I hated the gaps in the model when assembled. As long as they breakaway without damaging the small details of the model, I'll be very happy.
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Mr_Tantrum Can you share the file for this bracket? I'm about to do the exact same mod, and just picked up my first printer as well, a Ender 3 S1.

This will be a part that I market, so I’m not going to share source/print files. However, you can see how I designed it, so shouldn’t be too difficult to copy.