I've read that the glue stick is actually to help release the print from the bed, not for adhesion.

So you can definitely print without it but you might be damaged something trying to scrap the print off the bed if it sticks too well.

It’s kinda for both, because it does help for adhesion, and you can always reheat the bed and since the glue has a lower melting point than the PLA, it works.

That said, it is FAR less messy to use one of the flexible magnetic beds, where you just remove the print and the plate, flex the plate and the print just pops off. Nothing beats it IMO.

When I slice the same file for my Prusa at 20% infill time is 1h31m (using the default Prusa .20mm SPEED settings)

First print started on the X1C at .08 height. Going a little hardcore on the first trial b/c i'm...well, impatient. Shame my work has the network super locked down so I cant remote into it. We have an IoT network but even that I cant join unless I reserve the spot with the mac address of the wifi which is not readily viewable on the menu. I'd need to create a hotspot or similar, join it, and view the connected device list. Bleh a problem for another day. I'll find out tomorrow morning the result of that piece.

Really interested to hear how that goes. I have an X1C with AMS on order as well, looking forward to seeing how it runs compared to my Prusa.

Need to do fine tweaking for that fine layer height it seems. Just snuck out from home to visit work and it had shifted drastically. From the looks of it, the nozzle might have hit a bad bump in the first layer or two. A tomorrow task

Oh but from the couple of hours it printed "correctly", it looks awesome. No visible layer lines on the x-axis. Just when I caught it, it seemed like it was going to continue shifting repeatedly

Let me know what you’re looking for and I can make you some vectors If you’d like

Thanks for the offer but I think I found a process that works on low res images. If I mess around with the inkscape settings to build a path from an image I'm getting reasonable vectors. What process do you use to do this type of work?

I was just looking for better images to start the process with.... Stern, CGC, Bally, Williams, etc.

I just use the pen tool and redraw them in Inkscape. I use to use the method you’re using now but the lines had too many nodes and the shapes weren’t clean when trying to create offsets. I’m glad you found a method that works for you. If you run into something that’s not working for ya, just let me know.

I’ve been working on a topper for Rush. I only have one motor installed at the moment and I’m awaiting some parts for the lit letters but the spinning gears came out pretty good.

Dammit! Created a dupe post while trying to edit a typo

Ok, jumped on a bambu p1p... Between pinside and facebook groups, EVERYONE is jumping on this printer.

Wow

I’ve printed several models over the last few days including some of my more challenging, and the Bambu has delivered to the point that I put my Prusa up for sale last night. I find myself taken back to when I was first introduced to 3D printing in that I am so mesmerized by the Bambu that I will just stare at it for minuted on end during printing. It is truly an amazing leap forward in FDM technology.

Very nice work!

Wicked job in this. Looks amazing

Great job on this. Looks fantastic

Wow you're not lying, delivery estimate is pushed back to april for the x1 carbon now.

I just made it, mine arrives Tuesday.

Woo!

I think some of the stuff I've trying to print might not have been geared for FDM. even slicing takes 20+ minutes on my mac (a little faster on my windows box). But still trying to print large complex files at .08, so I'll try a few more adjustments to see where I'm hitting the wall.

Yea, that's one nice thing about the P1P, it's in stock in USA warehouse. I may see it by the end of next week. If I really fall in love, I may go up a tier or two when I start replacing my ender 5's.

I am hoping the Bambu solves some of the issues you describe with their hotends and software/gcode.

Remixed a small Iron Maiden sign available in the creative commons by increasing 400% and splitting into 3 pieces to fit on my Ender 3 (only two 3D print files so can be made in 1 day). Added a $15 LED strip in front and back. Files available free here if interested!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5848953

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Do you guys have a good sense of how easy it will be to do maintenance on the bambu printers yet? Do they use a lot of proprietary parts or are there off the shelf parts too?

Sweet! How did you decide to mount it?

I follow a few Print Farm people and so far it seems very good for service from Bambu and from a DYI. The Bambu community seems, especially on TikTok is always sharing tips.

used velcro tape. It looks good in gold PLA….BUT huge disclaimer that this is very basic compared to yours! Just an option for folks who want to print something simple DIY. Yours is a masterpiece.

If they fold, at least you can still use SD cards to load jobs (remote will probably still work too, just won't get updates). I'm guessing if somehow they did fold (not sure why, they spent so much time developing and it's a super popular printer that is getting a lot of people who were on the fence printing), that 3rd party suppliers would start making replacement parts the same way that you can buy nozzles for nearly any printer from a gazillion suppliers.

I have had my X1C for about 3 months and have had zero maintenance. Literally zero.
One time, the filament broke off in the tubing near the extruder, and it took me a total of 3 minutes to clear it out. Loosen a few screws, manually push a piece of filament in behind the broken piece and run the extruder until it flushed. Then reassemble.
I have been printing almost nonstop since I got it. It prints PLA, PETG and ASA perfectly.
My only complaint is that I wish they would supply a non-stick smooth bedplate. Most of my prints are using the textured PEI plate, but if I want smooth I have to use glue stick on the coldplate or hotplate. I have seen a few 3rd party smooth non-stick plates online but all seem to be out of stock.
Cheers!

For me anyway, PLA on the smooth PEI sheet (Hot Plate) and TPU on the Engineering sheet require zero prep (glue or otherwise). The cold plate when I was using it was very minimal use and mostly as a release agent. I haven't tried the textured plate yet for comparison.

Looks like the unnecessary inventions guy has three Bambu carbons now (his makerbots are slowly going away)

Buy a piece of mirrored glass for non-stick

I’ve had mine since July and had minimal maintenance consisting of wiping off the carbon rods and light cleaning. I use a light spray of Aqua Net on the smooth PEI side instead of the glue stick. I also just ordered a Wham Bam plate since I really like smooth surfaces for certain parts. That said the Bambu textured plate is incredible in operation and look.

I made a couple of super quick prints for Rush. I hate looking at the bare bayonet sockets, or the color bands on the LED bulbs. These print quick and are just an interference fit over the bulbs.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5851327

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I edited the thingiverse post to add a base from inspired by @Xdetroit. Looks great printed in gold silk PLA.

The link on thingiverse doesn't work. Could you please re-upload.

Thanks!

Probably would have helped if I published it and didn't just save it

Those look outstanding ! Funny how the little things can add so much. Looks straight out of the Time Machine tour

Support was my number one reason for cancelling my Kickstarter funding. They never clearly stated how was warranty applied, especially with regards to shipping cost

Here's the question I sent to their service department:

"
What is unclear is whether shipment costs are covered when buying through your own webstore, I quote your terms:

" And you may have to burden shipping costs for return, repair, or replacement of product(s) depending on Bambu Lab's aftersales policies in your local area. "

"

and their response

"... we will take it case by case "

Given the weight of the machine, this is a rather vague statement, if I have to pay 200 euros for shipping cost in case of a failure under warranty, I would be really unhappy. And their lack of response is not really encouraging

I really want to jump on the X1C, but seriously, they need to up their country coverage with regards to service (reseller, distributors, etc)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-fire-club/page/19#post-7313878
Anyone know where I can find this?

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That’s funny. Looks like someone just merged a cow with a cup holder - probably not hard to recreate.

Meanwhile, a few minutes later . . .

Here is my version (it was udderly simple). I inset the legs to make them more durable, and also kept the full shape of the cup/can/bottle holder for strength and personal styling preference.
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Having a little more fun with it.
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Did my first real multi-color print on the Bambu. This was a custom pop cap I designed for a client several months ago but couldn't print at the time. It came out great and I couldn't be happier with it.

Thought I'd also share the scrap that was generated during filament flushes. A scrap bin is definitely a must behind the printer.

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you can avoid a lot of the multi-color prints by separating your part into individual pieces and assemble them afterwards (this is how manufacturing works). the only way you can get multicolor in a single part is overmolding, and typically you dont get more than 2 colors (and it too is slow because you're waiting for plastic to set).

I do assembly based prints all of the time (I even have some mods that are assemblies of multi-color prints). However, there are often challenges and extra time involved in that method when you can just print in a single run not having to worry about tolerances, gluing, etc.

Yeah.. having it all fused and printed as a one piece print is amazing. Love the different color on the lugs etc. Cool design!

Bambu's default purge values seem to be very conservative. Dialing these in will save a decent amount of waste. I haven't gone through this, but it is on my todo list;
https://www.printables.com/model/390414

There is a purge into infill but I am not sure if there is a purge into a waste object as well. PrusaSlicer has this for the MMU2. Both of these also cut down the waste.

You can use Simplify3D software as a slicer program for Bambu. It costs but its good software.
Mike

Bambu impressions so far:

I was having issues starting at the .08mm layer height with the .4 nozzle printing models that were intended for resin machines. I thought I could move some bases of the workload from my Saturns over to the X1c, but got several failures. Later I inspected the base I was trying to print and the bottom only touches in like 5% of the plate, and the rest is slightly raised. This was creating crazy supports that on my preview screen thought it was part of the normal print. Well....I'll find something else later more complicated to try out.

Now to my first official test. For one of my projects, I needed something I can articulate to get a pose/angle/etc and found this model that pretty much meets my needs perfectly. 60 pieces so far for the top half of the body. Print time and assembly with my Ender 3 would have been a pain in the ass. Elephant feet was always something that messed up fittings even with extensive calibration to that first layer or two. With Bambu, all the pieces were coming out extremely fast and accurate. Two interface layers for the support filament has worked out fantastic as well. Still havent tested to see if the sample Support W is easily water soluble, but with those 2 small contact points in that filament all the supports have been snapping off super easy.

As part of a second test, printing a keyboard case for my MISTer FPGA. One of the walls is a little thin and has broken off from the body at the point where theres an opening. Also when the pattern changes in a layer (like adding more surface or new windows), it does feel like theres a small layer shift in each of those transitions. I'll take photos of that later to see what can be done with it. Its the pieces in the back of the photo. Might be the filament itself, not sure. I'll make the same part in another roll tomorrow.

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Where did you find this model? I’d love to give it a shot, it’s amazing looking.

Just got a X1-Carbon with AMS myself (led to it by the posts here, thank you all). It’s my first 3D printer so I have no idea what I’m doing but it’s pretty amazing. I made some small items and they’ve all come out great with very little effort.