(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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#3501 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

This is an amazing, simple, elegant solution. Nice work! Would you consider making these for other games? (WPC, modern Stern, etc.)

If I have the game to take off the outlane its possible. What games are people complaining about ball hop on and I'll have a look?

#3502 1 year ago

Just finished a cupholder for my JP.
Next up are TZ and MM.
Anyone interested in one for themselves? I may have to start a storefront on pinside for these. They are fun to design.

IMG_8889 (resized).jpgIMG_8889 (resized).jpgIMG_8890 (resized).jpgIMG_8890 (resized).jpgIMG_8891 (resized).jpgIMG_8891 (resized).jpg
#3503 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Probably not an issue for this application, but this print orientation produces a structurally weaker part at the expense of saving a little plastic and time (the cutout shapes will not be as precise either). Also, you probably will want to modify the 90 degree overhang on the back support when printing in this orientation so that a fairly long bridge is not required.
[quoted image]

Not printing related but when I made my own flipper fan holder about a year ago, I used small zip ties to hold the fan in place on the bracket. Easier than using screws and don't have to worry about the screws coming loose.

#3504 1 year ago

Is getting into 3d printing (a hobby unto itself) difficult. Is it difficult to learn? How much is a decent set-up? Thanks

#3505 1 year ago
Quoted from Viggin900:

If I have the game to take off the outlane its possible. What games are people complaining about ball hop on and I'll have a look?

Every game with metal inlanes likely has some ball hop if the lane guides have not been replaced.

Cliffy sells most of them afaik, and enhanced slightly to mitigate hop more than oe as well. the 3d printed solution should work well enough for many who won't want to pay for all new metal guides. I was meaning to get to it but you beat me to it! . It's a good idea to clip on to the socket frames below... Mine clips to the edge but was having trouble since it needs to be ground down a bit to keep the height of the guide... Since this gets bashed on and can get fairly out of shape.

#3506 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Is getting into 3d printing (a hobby unto itself) difficult. Is it difficult to learn? How much is a decent set-up? Thanks

I picked up on it with a few videos and was able to run with it from there. Can start by making super simple things like washers and your creativity will take you further. There are some more advanced things that you'll have to go back and learn but all in all, pretty straight forward. A starter setup like the Ender 3 is $250 retail but often on sale for less.

#3507 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Is getting into 3d printing (a hobby unto itself) difficult. Is it difficult to learn? How much is a decent set-up? Thanks

It's not hard to learn. If you can handle a pinball machine, then you are probably able handle printer maintenance and modding. You can start with premade stuff off of places like ThingiVerse then learn how to make your own with the various 3D CAD products. I use Fusion360 and Blender but everyone has their own preferences. YouTube is usually a good source for tutorials on the various products. When I have an idea, usually someone has made something similar on YouTube and I just follow their instructions and tweak until I'm happy.

If you have a local Makerspace then they almost certainly have a 3D printer you can try out to learn the basics. Even some libraries have them now.

#3508 1 year ago

Off topic a little but bambu makes perfect supports as well. They are as nice as the print.
Slice and print. Adjusted nothing but selected "support" for this 7 port usb holder I found on thingiverse. I ripped the one end on the support before I took the pic but it was mint.
It even printed extra brim for mr tantrum cause he loves it so much.
No post processing and easy support removal. Bambu x1c is ridiculous.
Slice and print.

20230124_073414 (resized).jpg20230124_073414 (resized).jpg20230124_073421 (resized).jpg20230124_073421 (resized).jpg
#3509 1 year ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Off topic a little but bambu makes perfect supports as well. They are as nice as the print.
Slice and print. Adjusted nothing but selected "support" for this 7 port usb holder I found on thingiverse. I ripped the one end on the support before I took the pic but it was mint.
It even printed extra brim for mr tantrum cause he loves it so much.
No post processing and easy support removal. Bambu x1c is ridiculous.
Slice and print.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm pretty happy with the supports too. With my ender 3 I didn't like using supports because it left marks on the piece, but x1c is supporting with less surface area it seems so they remove easily and don't leave marks.

#3510 1 year ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

It even printed extra brim for mr tantrum cause he loves it so much.

Don't think you slipped this by me.

#3511 1 year ago
Quoted from gorgar007:

I'm pretty happy with the supports too. With my ender 3 I didn't like using supports because it left marks on the piece, but x1c is supporting with less surface area it seems so they remove easily and don't leave marks.

Supports are all about the settings, and is really a function of your slicer and not the printer. I use them on my Prusa MK3S+ frequently, but I have made adjustments over time with the settings to get the optimal results I'm looking for (simple and clean separation with good performance).

#3512 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Supports are all about the settings, and is really a function of your slicer and not the printer. I use them on my Prusa MK3S+ frequently, but I have made adjustments over time with the settings to get the optimal results I'm looking for (simple and clean separation with good performance).

Yeah I always add 0.5mm to the gap between the supports and the actual print and they pop right off.

#3513 1 year ago
Quoted from Anony:

Yeah I always add 0.5mm to the gap between the supports and the actual print and they pop right off.

I too used a fixed value instead of the default % value of some slicers.

#3514 1 year ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Off topic a little but bambu makes perfect supports as well. They are as nice as the print.
Slice and print. Adjusted nothing but selected "support" for this 7 port usb holder I found on thingiverse. I ripped the one end on the support before I took the pic but it was mint.
It even printed extra brim for mr tantrum cause he loves it so much.
No post processing and easy support removal. Bambu x1c is ridiculous.
Slice and print.
[quoted image][quoted image]

And Bambu slicer has tree supports - those work great and use a fraction of the material that traditional supports use. I highly recommend trying tree supports next time.
I am still amazed by the X1C also.

#3515 1 year ago

Lighting infill is also a new great option for quicker prints using less filament when printing hollow models with solid surfaces on top.

#3516 1 year ago
Quoted from rhampo:

Just finished a cupholder for my JP.
Next up are TZ and MM.
Anyone interested in one for themselves? I may have to start a storefront on pinside for these. They are fun to design.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This came out super nice. The one on Thingiverse is what I have on most of my pins and it works great. But I printed solid black and it works universally. Not as cool as your JP at all though. Functional enough for a 3D printing hobbiest though.

#3517 1 year ago
Quoted from rhampo:

I may have to start a storefront on pinside for these. They are fun to design.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

There is a guy called Rocket City Pinball. Goes to all the pinball tradeshows. Sells out MASSIVE amounts of start buttons and makes good money I assume. I'm surprised he hasn't done this, but you 100% should do it if you enjoy it. Good price cupholders customized per game should sell. My critique here: Don't put the dino logo in the bottom of the cup. Put it on the outside. You could also maybe find some free 3d models of bones or something on turbosquid/cgtrader and have them 3d pop out of the side of the cup. If you are by a pinball expo, build some up and get a booth for $100. Worth a shot.

#3518 1 year ago
Quoted from dpadam450:

There is a guy called Rocket City Pinball. Goes to all the pinball tradeshows. Sells out MASSIVE amounts of start buttons and makes good money I assume. I'm surprised he hasn't done this, but you 100% should do it if you enjoy it. Good price cupholders customized per game should sell. My critique here: Don't put the dino logo in the bottom of the cup. Put it on the outside. You could also maybe find some free 3d models of bones or something on turbosquid/cgtrader and have them 3d pop out of the side of the cup. If you are by a pinball expo, build some up and get a booth for $100. Worth a shot.

You have to careful about licensed stuff though. Like the JP cup holder is awesome, but also not really valid to sell with that artwork at the bottom. You’ll notice that most of the things people sell are something related to the theme but not directly copying artwork,etc.

#3519 1 year ago

https://rocketcitypinball.com/

I mean you can easily theme something without trampling IP. Dinosaur design without the name Jurassic park. Even at that, if you are a small mod shop, this guy clearly doesn't have willy wonka or judge dredd coming at him for his pinball start buttons. Likely hood that Disney is coming at pinball mod makers is probably pretty small if you want to direct copy.

#3520 1 year ago

I made some lights to help illuminate your pinball playfield.

7 (resized).jpg7 (resized).jpg

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The photos don't really do it justice due to my phone camera using HDR/over-exposure to capture the playfield in low light. However, they make a huge difference and greatly improve video capture where exposure is short.

4 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg

These are designed to be used for streaming or recording pinball play where better light is temporarily needed and can be moved between machines.

They attach to the outside of the cabinet using magnetic tape. They can then fit a regular LED strip < 11mm in width.

8 (resized).jpg8 (resized).jpg

The piece is only 235mm long, but you can extend or contract the length along the axis to fit your print bed.

For me, 4 of these printed well standing upright in my Ender 3 v2 (using a large raft to adhere).

1 (resized).jpg1 (resized).jpg

I then glued these together end-to-end with superglue and relied on the magnetic tape and LED strip to hold it together. They are plenty strong enough, but I wouldn't go swinging them around.

It is available at https://www.printables.com/model/380413-pinball-portable-playfield-lights

#3521 1 year ago

Every once in awhile I need a price on an apron card. The pictures make the lines stick out but they look better in the machine. I only need Williams sized cards for now so that is the size I made.

I posted them on Prusa's model sharing site if you would need them.
https://www.printables.com/model/380495-williams-apron-price-card-1-or-32
https://www.printables.com/model/380493-williams-050-apron-card

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#3522 1 year ago

Maiden topper is sweet. Would have been cool if you found a 3D version of Eddie to print rising up behind it.

#3523 1 year ago
Quoted from wireable:

I made some lights to help illuminate your pinball playfield.

Nice job, these look similar to these I made over 3 years ago (well before Pinstadium produced their version which attaches to the machine externally)
https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/portable-pinstadium-alternative.44412/

You could wrap the assembled parts with a vinyl wrap, which would also provide stability and improve the cosmetic look.

#3524 1 year ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

Nice job, these look similar to these I made over 3 years ago (well before Pinstadium produced their version which attaches to the machine externally)
https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/portable-pinstadium-alternative.44412/

You could wrap the assembled parts with a vinyl wrap, which would also provide stability and improve the cosmetic look.

Awesome, very neat. I was certainly going for a quick hack (and they are secure enough), but yeah, that would improve their finish greatly .

The biggest difference from my design to what I've seen others do is that they sit up a little bit and fire across the playfield rather than straight down. Not sure if that's an improvement (I didn't experiment with angles much), but I wanted to focus on lighting the middle of the game as there is often more GI towards the sides.

#3525 1 year ago
Quoted from dpadam450:

Maiden topper is sweet. Would have been cool if you found a 3D version of Eddie to print rising up behind it.

I thought of putting Eddie or some other items on the the topper but the thing is already so huge, I didn’t want to add on to it. Being that there are so many letters, there’s not much room on the sides.

I just designed a Rush topper yesterday but because there are only 4 letters (12” wide), I have plenty of room on each side for other elements. I spent some time thinking and the only thing that I could come up with so far is to add a Starman on the left and right.
C8131788-0F17-4F02-A736-8726906767B5 (resized).pngC8131788-0F17-4F02-A736-8726906767B5 (resized).pngCF54E7AE-6FAE-426A-B926-1F1ACA552DAB (resized).pngCF54E7AE-6FAE-426A-B926-1F1ACA552DAB (resized).png

10
#3526 1 year ago

Downloaded letters in thingiverse. Put in some ws2812 leds and made this animated signage which I put up when I host pinball league every week. Powered with a 5v battery pack so it is portable and rechargeable.

2023-01-24 18.43.58 (resized).jpg2023-01-24 18.43.58 (resized).jpg
#3527 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

I thought of putting Eddie or some other items on the the topper but the thing is already so huge, I didn’t want to add on to it. Being that there are so many letters, there’s not much room on the sides.
I just designed a Rush topper yesterday but because there are only 4 letters (12” wide), I have plenty of room on each side for other elements. I spent some time thinking and the only thing that I could come up with so far is to add a Starman on the left and right.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice!

Here are some options for things to add: owl (from Fly by Night), brain (from Hemispheres), lady (from Permanent Waves), king (from Farewell to Kings)

It's been a while since I played a Rush machine, but I don't recall there being many design elements for Caress of Steel or Permanent Waves so it might be nice to have something from the album artwork on either of those in the topper.

I suspect whatever you come up with will be awesome and thanks for sharing your topper projects.

11
#3528 1 year ago

Thanks for your input! I’ll check those out. I figured I’d create a rendering of the current design. It’s an animated gif so I hope it shows up correctly.

Edit: looks like pinside changes the gif to a png Looks like there is a way hah

Quoted from mostater:

Very nice!
Here are some options for things to add: owl (from Fly by Night), brain (from Hemispheres), lady (from Permanent Waves), king (from Farewell to Kings)
It's been a while since I played a Rush machine, but I don't recall there being many design elements for Caress of Steel or Permanent Waves so it might be nice to have something from the album artwork on either of those in the topper.
I suspect whatever you come up with will be awesome and thanks for sharing your topper projects.

rush2.gifrush2.gif

#3529 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

...It’s an animated gif so I hope it shows up correctly.
Edit: looks like pinside changes the gif to a png
[quoted image]

When uploading animated GIF, you must choose "PDF/GIF (no rescaling)" as format.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
happy-minions-woohoo-yeah-i6810ku1bepmgnmu.gifhappy-minions-woohoo-yeah-i6810ku1bepmgnmu.gif

#3530 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

I thought of putting Eddie or some other items on the the topper but the thing is already so huge, I didn’t want to add on to it. Being that there are so many letters, there’s not much room on the sides.
I just designed a Rush topper yesterday but because there are only 4 letters (12” wide), I have plenty of room on each side for other elements. I spent some time thinking and the only thing that I could come up with so far is to add a Starman on the left and right.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You could work in Starman somehow. Then again, RUSH looks pretty good on its own.

#3531 1 year ago

I’m planning to have a few different items that you could place in the mounting track (including Starman). I think one on each side should fit nicely and fill out the open spaces next to the lettering.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:You could work in Starman somehow.

#3532 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

I’m planning to have a few different items that you could place in the mounting track (including Starman). I think one on each side should fit nicely and fill out the open spaces next to the lettering.

Sometimes I prefer things to be asymmetrical. Would also look good to have one large thing on the left, RUSH on the right and the group centered on the track.

#3533 1 year ago

Another idea in certain cases would be back illuminated stand-off opaque lettering. You could make the lettering hollow and mount the LED strips facing backwards inside the letters.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#3534 1 year ago

The great thing about the track is the items can position side to side in any order or position. The head mounting bracket has a hole in the back to feed the electronics into the head if desired

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Sometimes I prefer things to be asymmetrical. Would also look good to have one large thing on the left, RUSH on the right and the group centered on the track.

I’ve thought about that. The only issue is that you can’t string the LEDs to all of the letters as a complete strip. Of course the strips could be cut and wires soldered on to each strip if desired. That’s a cool look too.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Another idea in certain cases would be back illuminated stand-off opaque lettering. You could make the lettering hollow and mount the LED strips facing backwards inside the letters.
[quoted image]

#3535 1 year ago

I’ve been having fun printing bones on the P1P, not exactly pinball specific but maybe a topper for my JP..

347EE998-0238-4118-A014-69C331809E29 (resized).jpeg347EE998-0238-4118-A014-69C331809E29 (resized).jpeg37792D8B-8738-4913-8849-FE485BBCB584 (resized).jpeg37792D8B-8738-4913-8849-FE485BBCB584 (resized).jpegC566CF14-B9DC-48DB-B676-FE5C38A974EA (resized).jpegC566CF14-B9DC-48DB-B676-FE5C38A974EA (resized).jpeg
#3536 1 year ago

Started https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5078799 today. Just going to do the Pinball part and will take about 80 hours but I have my best operator on the job.

PXL_20230127_005015356 (resized).jpgPXL_20230127_005015356 (resized).jpgPXL_20230127_005051198 (resized).jpgPXL_20230127_005051198 (resized).jpgPXL_20230126_203031240 (resized).jpgPXL_20230126_203031240 (resized).jpg

#3537 1 year ago

Prototype so I didn't spend time to perfect and layer primer coats.

Eternal Topper (resized).pngEternal Topper (resized).png
#3538 1 year ago

Clock for Twilight Zone. Not made by me, but maybe useful for some people
https://cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/spiel/twilight-zone-pinball-clock-housing

TZ_clock_housing_full (resized).pngTZ_clock_housing_full (resized).png
#3539 1 year ago
Quoted from dpadam450:

Prototype so I didn't spend time to perfect and layer primer coats.
[quoted image]

Did you sculpt him too?

#3540 1 year ago
Quoted from gorgar007:

Did you sculpt him too?

Yea, if you are a fan of demon gorgar stuff and/or metal you can look up my game Pinball Eternal.

#3541 1 year ago

Question? Has anyone printed the flippers and used them? Do they feel the same as regular flippers?

#3542 1 year ago
Quoted from Viggin900:

Question? Has anyone printed the flippers and used them? Do they feel the same as regular flippers?

Problem isn't the flipper bats, but you need to fix them on the shaft. That's the hard part. Some bat mods failed because they did not get this working.

#3543 1 year ago

For custom flippers, It seems like you ought to be able to make something that fits around the flipper shoe and use the metal parts for strength and durability

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/26497

#3544 1 year ago
Quoted from fabsj82:

Started https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5078799 today. Just going to do the Pinball part and will take about 80 hours but I have my best operator on the job.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

STL link for the motor cover lego studs?

#3545 1 year ago

All my ender printers have been acting up lately. 2 have upgraded creality spider hotends, never did PID tune them. That really does help quite a bit, you really should do this anytime you swap out the hotend.

I went with ender 5's at the time because they had the better gantry over ender 3 (even though they are cartesian not core-xy). I might be ready to upgrade. Every time I price out a Voron it seems silly to spend that much money on a kit that needs major assembly ($875, which doesn't include any of the 3d printed parts or pi to run it). Not sure I want to spend $1000 on Bambu X1 (non-carbon), but considering their P1P which is an X1 minus the housing, and LIDAR (also has a lesser monochrome screen and low-rate camera). $700 for a 10" corexy printer still seems like a deal (especially because it still has auto-leveling and vibration compensation). I don't mind paying for a good working printer, but I know once I swap one printer out I'll be spoiled and want to switch out the other 2 printers.

#3546 1 year ago

Hey makers, anyone in here have a laser? I have been eyeballing an X1 pro for a while and I think it’s time! Want to make my own acrylic parts

#3547 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey makers, anyone in here have a laser? I have been eyeballing an X1 pro for a while and I think it’s time! Want to make my own acrylic parts

I can't really speak for the X1. It looks interesting, but I've tried a diode laser before and it was super underwhelming. This one may be better, but it's hard to say without trying it.

My experience has been with co2 lasers. I've used a 30w for years and it cut through acrylic in one pass, no issues. If I picked up another laser it would be the omtech 40w with a few upgrades.

The X1 doesn't have an enclosure (if I'm looking at the right model) so just be careful with what you cut. Acrylic is 'safe' but I still wouldn't want to breathe those fumes. Some materials will emit chemical warfare if you laser them, like PVC.

Something I wish I knew when I started - the work space on consumer grade lasers is pretty small. If the X1 has a 17x15 that's actually pretty big compared to co2 lasers. Some projects you might download and try to make, take a lot of space. If you buy plans from etsy for example, you may need to rearrange them and cut several sheets which can take a lot of extra effort and time. If you're just cutting small parts that you design, you might be happy with it.

#3548 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey makers, anyone in here have a laser? I have been eyeballing an X1 pro for a while and I think it’s time! Want to make my own acrylic parts

I have a Glowforge, which is not really the best bang for the buck, but it does the job very well. Plenty of other alternatives, but in general the tech is pretty amazing - acrylic work looks phenomenal and it takes minutes to do big cuts. I’ve done a lot of photo embossing recently, and that looks phenomenal too.

Here’s something I did for my dad this Christmas. Black acrylic backing, mirrored silver photo, and cherry for the left and right side pieces. It’s a plaque for the main gift I got him. I’m no expert but I’m having a ball making stuff

F6C5F39C-EBF4-4635-8970-DD1B35957243 (resized).jpegF6C5F39C-EBF4-4635-8970-DD1B35957243 (resized).jpeg
#3550 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey makers, anyone in here have a laser? I have been eyeballing an X1 pro for a while and I think it’s time! Want to make my own acrylic parts

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/laser-engraving-amp-cutting-for-pinball

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