(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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#251 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Someone responded a few posts back you can do anything in tinkercard. This is true. Here's my Wonkavator version I designed using tinkercard...

I actually ran into a TinkerCad limitation the other day importing a crazy STL file (the New York library I posted above) I wanted to do a simple mod on. I think the limitation was ~ 25meg files size, and I think ~300K for the triangle mesh. My import was ~35 meg and >1M triangles. I tried mesh reducers, but they seemed to butcher the finer details too much (statues turned to mush, I would have rather taken the detail out of the brick area).

I fooled around with that file for two weeks trying all kinds of programs to just add two simple rectangular voids. MeshMixer (very cool program) would have worked, but it just made the computer grind to a stop. Of all things, guess what worked...Microsoft 3D Builder. I was done in about 15 min and it was fairly intuitive. Can't say I'd use it for much else, but it got the job done and was incredibly fast despite the complex STL import. Rotating the part...it just spun it around w/o any lag. Probably best suited for modding a file, not drawing from scratch.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#252 3 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I actually ran into a TinkerCad limitation the other day importing a crazy STL file (the New York library I posted above) I wanted to do a simple mod on. I think the limitation was ~ 25meg files size, and I think ~300K for the triangle mesh. My import was ~35 meg and >1M triangles. I tried mesh reducers, but they seemed to butcher the finer details too much (statues turned to mush, I would have rather taken the detail out of the brick area).
I fooled around with that file for two weeks trying all kinds of programs to just add two simple rectangular voids. MeshMixer (very cool program) would have worked, but it just made the computer grind to a stop. Of all things, guess what worked...Microsoft 3D Builder. I was done in about 15 min and it was fairly intuitive. Can't say I'd use it for much else, but it got the job done and was incredibly fast despite the complex STL import. Rotating the part...it just spun it around w/o any lag. Probably best suited for modding a file, not drawing from scratch.
[quoted image]

I do remember my laptop taking forever to render that wonkavator file I was building. It was frustrating actually.
I forgot about the file size limitation. It's stopped me in my tracks a couple times actually.
I'll have to check out that microsoft 3d builder if I can remember next time I hit that file limit wall.

I can't figure those other fusions and meshmixers and bender programs. All too complex for me I guess. Although when I see or hear the word "intuitive" it usually means for me personally it will not be. Comprehension issues. So I just stick to tinkercard or find something on thingiverse or myminifactory to hopefully remix to fit my application.

That library mod you made looked fantastic, by the way!

#253 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

...That library mod you made looked fantastic, by the way!

I'm not that gifted. I bought that file ($19 cgtrader.com). It's the NY Library (simplified), not the Stern version that's been out of stock forever. I posted a comment about it a day or two ago in this thread. Actually printed great once I got done fooling around w/it. Wife played around with some painting then. Even setting it to 0.3mm in Cura, it has amazingly good detail. I bet a resin printer would knock it out of the ballpark.

Take a look at my post #229 above.

#254 3 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I'm not that gifted. I bought that file ($19 cgtrader.com). It's the NY Library (simplified), not the Stern version that's been out of stock forever. I posted a comment about it a day or two ago in this thread. Actually printed great once I got done fooling around w/it. Wife played around with some painting then. Even setting it to 0.3mm in Cura, it has amazingly good detail. I bet a resin printer would knock it out of the ballpark.
Take a look at my post #229 above.

Yes, I saw that post. I was commenting on the finished product. Post processing we'll call it. It looks great.
r/
Mike

#255 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Yes, I saw that post. I was commenting on the finished product. Post processing we'll call it. It looks great.
r/
Mike

Ahh...got it. Thank you!

I just finished printing a translucent one and she's going to leave the windows unpainted...I'm hoping some light shines thru. If not, then I mod it and stick a LED or two in there.

BTW, ~13 hr. print time.

#256 3 years ago

Holy shit, right? So many solutions to problems that don’t exist.

My favorite print is a nice castle, an established popular model that someone mixed a big dick into. Dick Castle was a favorite of everyone, except my wife and everyone she perceived to be important in her life.

Some prints are downright shocking:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756215

Quoted from Grauwulf:

No need to wait on getting the printer, lots of free things you didn't know you needed on Thingiverse!

#257 3 years ago

Another option for CAD software is the free version of Creo from PTC. Creo is the newer, combination of Pro Engineer and CoCreate. So you have the options in how you create your part. You can use the freeform method of CoCreate to mold your creation like a piece of clay by dragging features around or you can switch to the Pro Engineer parametric method of specifying each dimension and angle from the start. The free version is just like very expensive professional version except for limiting the total parts you can have in one assembly to 60. This is not really a limitation at all for hobbyists since most of the things we are talking about consist of a few parts at most.

https://www.ptc.com/en/products/creo/elements-direct/modeling-express

Creo Elements (resized).pngCreo Elements (resized).png
#258 3 years ago
Quoted from electronWrangler:

Another option for CAD software is the free version of Creo from PTC. Creo is the newer, combination of Pro Engineer and CoCreate. So you have the options in how you create your part. You can use the freeform method of CoCreate to mold your creation like a piece of clay by dragging features around or you can switch to the Pro Engineer parametric method of specifying each dimension and angle from the start. The free version is just like very expensive professional version except for limiting the total parts you can have in one assembly to 60. This is not really a limitation at all for hobbyists since most of the things we are talking about consist of a few parts at most.
https://www.ptc.com/en/products/creo/elements-direct/modeling-express[quoted image]

I got stuck on that link when I tried to sign up. Wanted a 'customer number'

I think this link might be better: https://www.ptc.com/en/products/creo/creo-view/extension-express

That link just wanted the basic info. Then they just e-mail you a download link. Seems to be downloading OK

#259 3 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I got stuck on that link when I tried to sign up. Wanted a 'customer number'
I think this link might be better: https://www.ptc.com/en/products/creo/creo-view/extension-express
That link just wanted the basic info. Then they just e-mail you a download link. Seems to be downloading OK

Thanks for the updated link. I already had an account as we have used Creo at work from the Pro Engineer days. I didn't realize it would be different for new users.

For anyone new to CAD software, the full blown professional packages like Creo can seem intimidating but they really shouldn't. There are a lot of basic tutorials to get you started, even from right inside the program. You can ignore most of the features that you don't need right away.

On second look, that new link is for the stand alone viewer program, it is not the CAD program itself.

OK, PTC has changed their website a lot and it is much more confusing now. The original link I posted is correct. On that page you want to click the download link below "Download Now" (which just looks like a bullet point to me)

Download (resized).JPGDownload (resized).JPG

Create a new account from the same web page with the "Create an account" link.
Next, (counterintuitively) switch from the "New User" tab to the "Basic" tab. The "New User" tab is for the paid versions.
Fill out your info with a valid email account which you will need to verify and you should be able to install the software and activate it.
I just created a new account and verified that this does work.
Trust me, the software is more intuitive than the registration process!

Activate (resized).JPGActivate (resized).JPGCreate Account (resized).JPGCreate Account (resized).JPG
#260 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Everyone wants a Prusa including me but they are very expensive and if you lose interest or figure it's not for you, you're out over $1000.
I'll eventually get a prusa if I continue to find use but reality is my Ender 3 Pro is doing everything I need it to do right now.

This is not true now that the Prusa Mini+ is available (https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-mini/) for only $349. Among my 3D printers, I have multiples of both the mini and the i3MK3S+ and the mini is very very good for $379 for the kit (get the optional $30 filament sensor). I've had enders, too, but I'd much rather have a Prusa mini stock than a modded out Ender 3 to overcome its weaknesses because a stock Prusa mini is a really nice printer with great bells and whistles for a cheap price (and that goes for the chinese cheap knockoffs that have thermal runaway issues, not interested in burning my house down because I left a print unattended). The mini kit is only a few parts and about 20 minutes - barely even a kit and nothing like the hours-long assembly if an i3MK3S+.

#261 3 years ago

do you, or anyone else here for that matter, have any experience with the MMU2s?

#262 3 years ago
Quoted from electronWrangler:

Thanks for the updated link. I already had an account as we have used Creo at work from the Pro Engineer days. I didn't realize it would be different for new users.
For anyone new to CAD software, the full blown professional packages like Creo can seem intimidating but they really shouldn't. There are a lot of basic tutorials to get you started, even from right inside the program. You can ignore most of the features that you don't need right away.
On second look, that new link is for the stand alone viewer program, it is not the CAD program itself.
OK, PTC has changed their website a lot and it is much more confusing now. The original link I posted is correct. On that page you want to click the download link below "Download Now" (which just looks like a bullet point to me)
[quoted image]
Create a new account from the same web page with the "Create an account" link.
Next, (counterintuitively) switch from the "New User" tab to the "Basic" tab. The "New User" tab is for the paid versions.
Fill out your info with a valid email account which you will need to verify and you should be able to install the software and activate it.
I just created a new account and verified that this does work.
Trust me, the software is more intuitive than the registration process! [quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for chasing this down further Electron.

#263 3 years ago

Ordered a Creality Ender 3 Pro and some PLA/PETG filament last night. I've played around with TinkerCAD already to try it out and see how difficult it was and it seemed fairly straightforward. Already have a few easy prints I'd like to do for some things around the house. Looking forward using it for some pinball things.

#264 3 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Ordered a Creality Ender Pro and some PLA/PETG filament last night. I've played around with TinkerCAD already to try it out and see how difficult it was and it seemed fairly straightforward. Already have a few easy prints I'd like to do for some things around the house. Looking forward using it for some pinball things.

Congrats! If you think pins are modded a bunch, get ready for 3D printing...

#265 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

This is not true now that the Prusa Mini+ is available (https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-mini/) for only $349. Among my 3D printers, I have multiples of both the mini and the i3MK3S+ and the mini is very very good for $379 for the kit (get the optional $30 filament sensor). I've had enders, too, but I'd much rather have a Prusa mini stock than a modded out Ender 3 to overcome its weaknesses because a stock Prusa mini is a really nice printer with great bells and whistles for a cheap price (and that goes for the chinese cheap knockoffs that have thermal runaway issues, not interested in burning my house down because I left a print unattended). The mini kit is only a few parts and about 20 minutes - barely even a kit and nothing like the hours-long assembly if an i3MK3S+.

And I got my MK3 a few months ago for $700 shipped. As I think I stated earlier, it was worth every penny. I dicked around with an Ender3 for almost a year, and barely got it to print anything. Modded the hell out of it. Complete waste of time. Wasted 5-6 rolls of filament and countless hours re-levelling it. My time is worth way more than a couple hundred bucks. Will never go back.

#266 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

And I got my MK3 a few months ago for $700 shipped. As I think I stated earlier, it was worth every penny. I dicked around with an Ender3 for almost a year, and barely got it to print anything. Modded the hell out of it. Complete waste of time. Wasted 5-6 rolls of filament and countless hours re-levelling it. My time is worth way more than a couple hundred bucks. Will never go back.

I had issues leveling my prusa mk1 after an issue where the spool got stuck and pulled the printer off the shelf, was never the same. I think what prusa has done is great, but I still think it's an overpriced printer for what it is.

If you never got your ender3 leveled, you could have had a warped bed. If it was leveling but then getting unlevel, you should have locked it in place by replacing the springs with stop knobs.

#267 3 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Ordered a Creality Ender Pro and some PLA/PETG filament last night. I've played around with TinkerCAD already to try it out and see how difficult it was and it seemed fairly straightforward. Already have a few easy prints I'd like to do for some things around the house. Looking forward using it for some pinball things.

Work with pla first. Not all pla is perfect so the brand and tolerance +/- is semi important. PETG will require some mods for optimum performance so i'd hold off until you navigate for a bit. No reason to mod an ender 3 pro out of the box for starting out. Learn the machine, but first build it right. level the table prior to every print etc.... methodical and patience about approach will yield great results.
there are many build videos. I suggest watching a couple while you wait for your machine. This one will get you started.

this guy is pretty good for some great tips. including a bed leveling g code. you'll want that. he's on youtube but couldn't find it straight away.
https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html

ask questions.

oh yeah, glass bed will resolve the warpage issue to an acceptable level if there is one. hopefully yours comes with one like mine did. i've never used anything but the glass.

I agree with Joe on the levelling. One of the most important aspects of the print so I level the bed every print.
r/
Mike

#268 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Work with pla first. Not all pla is perfect so the brand and tolerance +/- is semi important. PETG will require some mods for optimum performance so i'd hold off until you navigate for a bit. No reason to mod an ender 3 pro out of the box for starting out. Learn the machine, but first build it right. level the table prior to every print etc.... methodical and patience about approach will yield great results.
there are many build videos. I suggest watching a couple while you wait for your machine. This one will get you started.
this guy is pretty good for some great tips. including a bed leveling g code. you'll want that. he's on youtube but couldn't find it straight away.
https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html
ask questions.
oh yeah, glass bed will resolve the warpage issue to an acceptable level if there is one. hopefully yours comes with one like mine did. i've never used anything but the glass.
I agree with Joe on the levelling. One of the most important aspects of the print so I level the bed every print.
r/
Mike

Chep is a super ender fan.. he's definitely one you want to subscribe to if you have an ender.

Beyond leveling the bed, I had one ender where I was getting odd prints where it looked like it was leaning (like a parallelogram). Turned out my z-axis was not perpendicular to the bed. Even though it's pretty much a hole that lines it up, there's quite a bit of slop and if you don't lock it down with some sort of box to reference from, you can skew it pretty badly.

#269 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Work with pla first. Not all pla is perfect so the brand and tolerance +/- is semi important. PETG will require some mods for optimum performance so i'd hold off until you navigate for a bit. No reason to mod an ender 3 pro out of the box for starting out. Learn the machine, but first build it right. level the table prior to every print etc.... methodical and patience about approach will yield great results.
there are many build videos. I suggest watching a couple while you wait for your machine. This one will get you started.
this guy is pretty good for some great tips. including a bed leveling g code. you'll want that. he's on youtube but couldn't find it straight away.
https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html
ask questions.
oh yeah, glass bed will resolve the warpage issue to an acceptable level if there is one. hopefully yours comes with one like mine did. i've never used anything but the glass.
I agree with Joe on the levelling. One of the most important aspects of the print so I level the bed every print.
r/
Mike

Level after Every Print?? That just Sounds painful lol. Just passed 68k hours of printing and I Think I leveled 1 time. Granted I don't own an Ender...

#270 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Just passed 68k hours of printing

Over 7 years of printing straight?

#271 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Level after Every Print?? That just Sounds painful lol. Just passed 68k hours of printing and I Think I leveled 1 time. Granted I don't own an Ender...

I use 1 or 2 g codes to level my bed. Takes less than a minute. Easy stuff. I don't mass produce anything and don't care if a print takes 2 or more days to complete. My enjoyment of the hobby is most likely different than yours. Both of our reasons for being in the hobby are valid.
r/
Mike

#273 3 years ago
Quoted from cadmium:

I'm restoring a 1963 Gottlieb Flying Chariots which has seen a lot of neglect. The original plastic score reel guides are brittle and have fallen to pieces. I designed new score reel guide channels to replace the original. I removed the rivets holding in the original plastic guides and have mounted the new ones with 2mm machine screws.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4699213
[quoted image][quoted image]

A Pinsider helped me save several games with the broken gliders for Gottlieb games.
He made them out of strong plastic... He has a milling machine... Great good guy.
Pinsider papajohn.

#274 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I had issues leveling my prusa mk1 after an issue where the spool got stuck and pulled the printer off the shelf, was never the same. I think what prusa has done is great, but I still think it's an overpriced printer for what it is.
If you never got your ender3 leveled, you could have had a warped bed. If it was leveling but then getting unlevel, you should have locked it in place by replacing the springs with stop knobs.

Yes, did that. And Glass plate on the bed. Replaced the extruder, replaced the Bowden tube twice, had to upgrade the brass knob on the filament feeder because it wasn't gripping. Added stronger springs underneath before upgrading to the stop knobs. It was just a pain in the ass. Maybe it was just mine, but I told that story to my next door neighbor about a month ago, and he said he'd been F-ing with his Ender for 6 months. He bought a Prusa as well, after I showed him how quickly I went through 2 spools.

I don't have anything against the Ender, but I do -NOT- have time to be spending literally hours every time messing with it, and it was pissing me off that I could get 1 print and then the whole thing would go to hell.

By the way I have adjusted the leveling exactly 1 time in the past 5 months, after going through 6 spools of PLA and 2 of ABS. I had to re-level when I installed the ABS. Click and print. It's not for everyone, but to me, the extra money is worth it for exactly that reason.

#275 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

do you, or anyone else here for that matter, have any experience with the MMU2s?

I have one sitting in the box that I intend to get set up, but having some place to put the printer with up to 5 filament spools behind it is the problem. I don't have the space. I may have to go vertical.

#276 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

And I got my MK3 a few months ago for $700 shipped. As I think I stated earlier, it was worth every penny. I dicked around with an Ender3 for almost a year, and barely got it to print anything. Modded the hell out of it. Complete waste of time. Wasted 5-6 rolls of filament and countless hours re-levelling it. My time is worth way more than a couple hundred bucks. Will never go back.

Pretty much my feeling after moving from an Ender 3 to the MK3 a couple years ago. I didn't have problems printing with the Ender 3, but it was just such a hassle to use and SO LOUD. Now that the mini gives most of the MK3S+ features and performance for half the price (all you're missing is about 20% of the build area and some niceties with the power supply and filament handling) there's really no excuse to hassle with an Ender 3 and mod it out if you're buying a printer right now. I also have a couple $3500 Raise3D E2s I now use mostly for PETG to manage the air pollution that material puts off while printing and I constantly complain (mostly to myself, no one's listening) about features it's missing that the Prusa MK3S has.

PRUSA makes nice printers, for sure.

#277 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I may have to go vertical.

Intentional or not. You win the day with a nod to a Top Gun ref.

Mav: "He's going vertical. So Am I.
Goose: We're going ballistic, Mav. Go get him!"

Carry on.
r/

#278 3 years ago

Now you're just bragging

I mean, pics or it didn't happen!

#279 3 years ago

Just got a Prusa MK3s+ kit assembled. Working perfectly out of the gate. Been running constantly since Xmas day. Glad I waited the extra six months to save up and skip the hassle of cheaper printers. I'm sure the final results are comparable but I love how easy this thing is to use.

Printed up PETG cup holders for my games.

PXL_20201230_184151626.jpgPXL_20201230_184151626.jpg
#280 3 years ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

Just got a Prusa MK3s+ kit assembled. Working perfectly out of the gate. Been running constantly since Xmas day. Glad I waited the extra six months to save up and skip the hassle of cheaper printers. I'm sure the final results are comparable but I love how easy this thing is to use.
Printed up PETG cup holders for my games.
[quoted image]

If you're running a lot of PETG on a non-enclosed PRUSA, for your lungs' sake you want to at least have some kind of HEPA filtration near the printer to try to minimize the dust/gas that's thrown off when the filament is heated up if you're running it indoors. It's a LOT more than you realize. It's completely coated the inside of my E2 printers over time with a white haze, which is why I only run PLA on the PRUSAs. PETG is automatically in the enclosed printers with built in filtration.

#281 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

some kind of HEPA filtration .

I think a lot of people don't realize how harmful these plastics can be. ABS does the same. I've read of people getting sick and having to go to the hospital from breathing too many fumes.

#282 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I think a lot of people don't realize how harmful these plastics can be. ABS does the same. I've read of people getting sick and having to go to the hospital from breathing too many fumes.

It's pretty deceptive because it doesn't really smell that bad (well, ABS does, but...) and you don't SEE a cloud or anything, but on the PETG it is really surprising how much chemical haze builds up on the viewing window and sides of the enclosure. I only do PETG now in the enclosed units and I have a HEPA filter running by the other side of the room where the PRUSAs are that only run PLA. Ideally I'd like to have all of it enclosed with ventilation to the outside, but this will have to do for now.

#283 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's pretty deceptive because it doesn't really smell that bad (well, ABS does, but...) and you don't SEE a cloud or anything, but on the PETG it is really surprising how much chemical haze builds up on the viewing window and sides of the enclosure. I only do PETG now in the enclosed units and I have a HEPA filter running by the other side of the room where the PRUSAs are that only run PLA. Ideally I'd like to have all of it enclosed with ventilation to the outside, but this will have to do for now.

Yikes. I need to pay more attention to this. I've been printing ABS quite a lot lately AND working with Weld-On in a relatively small room. Time to get some ventilation...

#284 3 years ago

Everything I’ve read stated that ABS fumes are toxic, but PETG is in the ballpark of PLA.

I hadn’t thought about dust much, though. Read around and it felt like there wasn’t a ton of good data, one way or another. Good call on getting an enclosure to be on the safe side.

#285 3 years ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Everything I’ve read stated that ABS fumes are toxic, but PETG is in the ballpark of PLA.
I hadn’t thought about dust much, though. Read around and it felt like there wasn’t a ton of good data, one way or another. Good call on getting an enclosure to be on the safe side.

ABS is hands-down bad. I think PETG is in the ballpark of PLA in smell (not much smell), but in airborne micro particles, I think it's worse than PLA. The haze if I print PLA in the enclosed units is pretty much nonexistent, but a print of PETG of just 4-6 hours and it's all over the inside of the enclosure. That visual is what locked me in to deciding PETG was only for the two enclosed units with HEPA filtration, and getting a better HEPA room air filter even for the PLA units.

#286 3 years ago
Quoted from A_Bord:

Just got a Prusa MK3s+ kit assembled. Working perfectly out of the gate. Been running constantly since Xmas day. Glad I waited the extra six months to save up and skip the hassle of cheaper printers. I'm sure the final results are comparable but I love how easy this thing is to use.
Printed up PETG cup holders for my games.
[quoted image]

There's a one piece pin cup holder that is far more durable on Thingverse. I have printed many of the two piece units and even with mods of the STL, the damned thing gets broken. Granted, they are on location, but the one piece cup holders have been solid.

I'm looking on Thingverse now but cannot find it. If you need it, I think I have the STL somewhere, message me if you need it, I can share it from Google Drive.

#287 3 years ago
Quoted from pb456:

There's a one piece pin cup holder that is far more durable on Thingverse. I have printed many of the two piece units and even with mods of the STL, the damned thing gets broken. Granted, they are on location, but the one piece cup holders have been solid.
I'm looking on Thingverse now but cannot find it. If you need it, I think I have the STL somewhere, message me if you need it, I can share it from Google Drive.

Print the mount at 95%, solved my breakage issue (Not on location, home use).

#288 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

ABS is hands-down bad. I think PETG is in the ballpark of PLA in smell (not much smell), but in airborne micro particles, I think it's worse than PLA. The haze if I print PLA in the enclosed units is pretty much nonexistent, but a print of PETG of just 4-6 hours and it's all over the inside of the enclosure. That visual is what locked me in to deciding PETG was only for the two enclosed units with HEPA filtration, and getting a better HEPA room air filter even for the PLA units.

Well said. While you Can print custom materials on these entry level machines you Have to understand the dangers associated! I did not Want to buy fancy enclosed Hepa systems but our health is worth Way more then the creations we make! Similar to carbon monoxide in smoke detectors these machines Can be a silent killer! Even with enclosed systems people Need to use caution when printing with these materials in their home areas! No Joke! With the enclosures we use we have secondary provisions to further protect our use of this technology. They are Amazing machines but you MUST respect the long term dangers they impose to you and your home family!!!! Please do your homework and Know what you are doing for your own safety.

#289 3 years ago

Here's what I use for filtering :
https://www.alveo3d.com/en/homepage/

(I'm not associated to them in any way)

They have both a add-on kit or a complete enclosure (on pre-order). Unfortunately the enclosure does not accommodate my CR10S

#290 3 years ago

I made the Donut Heaven for the Williams High Speed. I just have it setting in my Mustang. Goes with the mode "Police Pursuit". I'm going to reprint it and have "Donut Shoppe" on roof this time.
Happy New Year to all.
This is ver2
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4366012
16095145614301423894467671920492 (resized).jpg16095145614301423894467671920492 (resized).jpg20210101_100550_HDR (resized).jpg20210101_100550_HDR (resized).jpg

#291 3 years ago

Anyone using a Voron 2.4? I'm about to click "order" on about 10 different websites for all the parts.

#292 3 years ago

With a new Ender 3 motherboard (Bigtreetech V2) that I just installed that runs Marlin, I just found out that Marlin has bed leveling code built in - meaning you check 9 points on the build plate to manually level with a sheet of paper, then hit enter to save the offset needed at each of the 9 points. I just bought a BLtouch for more precise leveling, but this is rather slick. Marling then compensates for the offset when printing the Gcode

#293 3 years ago

I think you could do the manual mesh leveling with the stock ender3 main board, you would have just had to compile a copy of Marlin with that enabled. I briefly had it set up on one of my other printers, but never really used it.

#294 3 years ago

I typically use some gcode - probably from TH3D - to do the leveling on my Ender3, but there are so many ways to do it.

#295 3 years ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

I made the Donut Heaven for the Williams High Speed. I just have it setting in my Mustang. Goes with the mode "Police Pursuit". I'm going to reprint it and have "Donut Shoppe" on roof this time.
Happy New Year to all.
This is ver2
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4366012
[quoted image][quoted image]

What paint you use? And what method did you use? It looks like you printed out of either white or transparent PLA material?

Thx

#296 3 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

What paint you use? And what method did you use? It looks like you printed out of either white or transparent PLA material?
Thx

For this I used all PLA.
Black- Roof, Windows and building Corners rails.
Clear- window Glass and Donut
Fluorescent Red- Walls front and side. Printed 25% fill. White Acrylic paint

20210102_084943 (resized).jpg20210102_084943 (resized).jpg
#297 3 years ago

It's going in my Mustang so I changed the name to "Donut Shoppe". I used PLA for all prints at 25% fill
Black- Window sills, Building Corners and Roof, then changed filament to Ceramic White to finish once it started to print "Donut Shoppe" I can't paint.
Yellow- Walls Front and Sides, changed filament to Majestic Purple once "Donuts & Coffee" started printing.
Clear- Window Pains
Zyltech filament for all 21% until Sunday. Use code "2021".

20210102_084951 (resized).jpg20210102_084951 (resized).jpg
#298 3 years ago
Quoted from Grauwulf:

I think you could do the manual mesh leveling with the stock ender3 main board, you would have just had to compile a copy of Marlin with that enabled. I briefly had it set up on one of my other printers, but never really used it.

Quoted from pb456:

I typically use some gcode - probably from TH3D - to do the leveling on my Ender3, but there are so many ways to do it.

I've played around with adding gcode commands to the slicer, but never looked into it from the perspective of leveling.

The way the Marlin bed leveling works is by it moving the hotend to one corner. You slide some paper under the hot end like normal, until that point is at the right height (by adjusting the dial near the display, and you'll see the +/- offset in the display). Once at the right height, hit enter and the head moves to the next location and you repeat. After all 9 points are set, you save and you're done. Very easy and only takes about a minute or so. First time using Marlin for me, so not sure when this was implemented.

I usually level with the hotend and bed heated.

#299 3 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I usually level with the hotend and bed heated.

This is very important.

#300 3 years ago

All of my printers have BLTouch sensors on them now, I do a good manual leveling of the bed and then lock it down and let the BLTouch handle the rest. Some of the best money I've spent on my printers.

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