I just loaded some PET-G filament on my Ender-3 Pro. Having a tough time getting the first layer to stick. Bed is leveled, cleaned bed, use glue-stick on bed. Tried bed at 70 and 80C. Extruder temp 215-225C. Filament drops on the bed fine, but doesn't stick very well at all.

Any thoughts?

So here's a bit of a mystery... I printed two objects last night. They were set to print together, not one by one and somehow one of them has a layer shift as if the belt jumped a tooth and the other is fine. There is a very fine line on the second object at the same height as the layer shift. but I don't get how one object can have experienced a layer shift but the other didn't.

Maybe just a gcode error?

Thanks very much for putting this info. together. I have already sent the samples to the "3-D maker" (a guy who makes 3-D items?) If this does not work out, I will contact you. Dennis

I've been using doubled sided tape for years. It's the best. No matter what speed for first layer it will stick 100%. Works for all materials and no need to heat bed unless ABS.

Just giving my thumbsup for Sunlu T3 printer. I just opened mine after months of sitting in a box. I have 2 Anycubic i3 Mega's. The rail system is much sturdier and smooth. The buildplate flexible mat is the best bed adhesive plate. I've tried fulament/kingroon PLA plates and standard glass bed. The rough mat is blowing my mind. No more need for sticky tape.

I guess it's possible but that would be pretty random. I just did a quick scrub through with the gcode viewer on octoprint and it doesn't show any shift there so I think it was a legit layer skip due to hardware.

Use steel wool to scrub bed and check spacing relative to bed.

PETG will need the nozzle further from the bed than PLA if you haven't tried that already.

This is incorrect. The nozzle needs to be raised from the bed where you normally print PLA. I put mine up .08mm.

What does the spool say for temperature? Yours seem low.
Is PETG selected in your slicer?
Is your cooling fan off for the first few layers?

PETG sticks to PEI well and a PEI sheet is a very worthwhile investment.
Adding a brim helps with adhesion.

This guide was very helpful for me - https://standardprintco.com/read/2020/11/15/petg-filament-printing-guide-how-to-succeed-printing-petg-and-troubleshooting-common-problems-step-by-step

As with any new filament, you should be printing temperature towers/benchys/calibration cubes first to see what settings work best for your printer.
For me, getting retraction dialed in (to reduce stringing) was the biggest challenge.

Oops - thank you for the correction! I haven't printed with PETG in a while and only remember I needed a much different Z height than when using PLA You probably saved me some initial headache for the next time I use PETG

I got tired of the flipper fade on my LOTR. Tried the high strength coils but didn't like them so I put back in the stock coils and made a fan mount that cools the coil with a 12V fan.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5788725

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Man.. this is great!.. One of my bucket list items I have been too lazy to model.. and voila! you made it!

Thank you for sharing!

In what orientation did you print these (I see you noted supports are required)?

I've watched a couple of sound videos for the Bambu and Prusa MK3s. From the videos I watched the Prusa in normal mode and the Bambu X1 Carbon in standard mode with door closed both ran between 55db - 60db.

I'm wondering if anyone can confirm based on their personal experience if both printers have about the same loudness when printing in standard mode?

Did you need longer mounting screws for this or did you use the stock ones?

Congrats, you got a $4 cooling fan that would cost you $120 if you bought from PinMonk

Actually, I don't remember but I'm pretty sure they are stock. I would have thrown the old ones in the cash box I don't' see them in there.

I printed it grill side on the bed. The supports are to hold up the screw side up top. Supports don't have to be too aggressive since it's just a horizontal piece. You want them to snap off easily. I printed at 0.3mm layer height.

The STL on ThingiVerse is oriented weird because that's how Fusion360 exported it. I'll try and rotate it so it's the correct orientation for printing.

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Great model and I'm sure your ventilation grid is fine, but figured I'd open it up a little (not really a risk of anything poking into the running fans). Besides, I just like hexagons.
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I have both of them sitting side by side. The Bambu is louder probably. However it's kind of irrelevant since the Bambu is so much better of a printer. It's laughable that they're even close in price.

Looks great. I can add it to ThingiVerse is you send it to me.

I just printed PET-G for the first time on an ender 3V2, painter's tape worked well.

I need to learn how to do this asap. Fusion360 is a lot of fun.
I like what you did with the ventilation but i was wondering if this is needed at all, do you think the fan can be held with just two screws? Then you would not need the grid at all…

This is definitely a mod on my list!!!

Learn by doing! I was "forced" to learn Fusion360 because I was asked to make a project for the International Space Station. It was either learn or pass up said project.

As far as the grid goes. It's probably not needed. But it does prevent accidental touching of the fan if you were to stick your hand in there with the power on.

What I did was pretty simple in Tinkercad since I didn’t have source file. Just import STL, overlay cut shapes to remove existing grid and merge, create/import hex pattern, size and position accordingly, remove any excess material, fill any gaps, merge and export. Sounds like a lot, but I literally spent maybe 5 minutes doing it. Also, I could easily remove the grid altogether (see attached image) just leaving the open square with the four mounting positions remaining. Personally, I recommend something there just to prevent accidental damage to the fan from fingers, tools, etc., but certainly not required.

In looking at the model, I would print at 100% infill or at least add infill modifiers in the slicer around the six screw holes and do 100% infill there.

If you would like the model this way, I'm happy to send STL to creator to post with his other files on Thingiverse if he so chooses.
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Thank you for everyone's input regarding the Bambu. After watching countless videos, working with the slicer, reading countless threads in the support forum, asking a variety of questions and having them all answered, I just placed my order for the X1-Carbon Combo printer (includes AMS) as well as a textured plate and a high temp plate (just became available today).

I'm a diehard supporter of Prusa as my MK3S+ has been rock solid over the last few years, and was really wanting to purchase a XL when they came available. However, I do have some issues with the XL (price point fully loaded and space requirements), so the Bambu appears to be a perfect replacement for me given then I don't really need the giant build space. The X1 actually has more build area than the Prusa, so I will take advantage of the modest increase.

Thanks for posting it with your original.

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thank you for the explanation!

Congrats! I hope you love it. I think I need the XC model, but did not know enough about anything when I purchased the p1p and I was really going in blind, Now that I know better I would have certainly chosen the XC1 because it is enclosed and I worry about my health.
That said, I really like the p1p and I will now add this to it to enclose it:

https://clearviewplastic.com/products/bambu-labs-p1p-3d-printer-enclosure-kit-coming-soon?variant=43911774142702

I am still not sure how I am going to filter/scrub the air inside the enclosure, nor I am entirely sure if this enclosure is 'sealed' enough to protect me. I went ahead and shot them an email yesterday to ask, I am hoping they can send me some more information and I will report back. I like this design better than the other option called 'ARC' which is designed by a P1P user, the arc seems more intricate and convoluted than the option shown in my link. I do not want this to become a project on its own so I am going with the most efficient and simpler solution and I think that Clearview nailed it. I am not associated with them in any way shape or form, I am just giving out my thoughts and maybe someone else chan chime in as well and help me. I am open to suggestions.

I have also considered selling the P1P but I have already invested a lot of time in it and I like the simplicity of it, I also do not want to sell at a loss, I would rather keep it and just ADD a XC1 in the near future, but REALLY, I am just hoping that the enclosure I linked works just fine and I can continue to use the P1P.

I know there is a user made AIR scrubber I can add in the chamber. I just do not know what to do as this point, still learning it all. I do not fully regret buying the P1P, I think it is great. Now that I know better I just know the XC1 would have been perfect that is all.

Yeah, we can add that as well.

I modeled the fan to give an idea of the air flow through the grid. I oriented it to push air over the coil. Although I understand there is reason to pull air over the coil as well.

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I don’t know much about fluid dynamics, but my guess would be that airflow difference is negligible between the different models. I only changed it originally just for styling sake.

My assumption was you were pushing air onto the coil since everything is in an open cabinet. If in a small closed space then pulling the air away would be better (ie an exhaust fan).

Has anyone designed and printed the Stern arch lighting brackets? I could probably make these out of metal, but I'd try a 3d-printed solution if someone has already done it. The brackets (or assemblies) don't seem to be available for purchase anywhere.

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That's a nice model for the fan. I am still trying to figure out how Mr. Tantrum got his grid to be hexagons. I am getting close though.

I think the easiest way if you weren't comfortable with doing it in cad would be to design the fan mount area as a plain solid rectangle. Then in the slicer add a modifier for that area and set it to zero top and zero bottom solid layers. Then choose the infill pattern you like the looks of the best. Voila, free grid. Add perimeters to make it strong enough. Use zip ties instead and don't worry about the mount holes.

Janky, I know. But there are a lot of quick and dirty things you can do in the slicer if you don't want to monkey with the model or more likely when you don't have the source.

Another good application of this technique is for speaker adapter plates.

Speaking of speaker adaptor plates, has anyone made a Spike2 mounting adaptor for even larger 6.5" speakers?

I do realize they couldn’t be centered, they'd have to overhang on the inside, but I picked up these spanking new Duals at the thrift store for so cheap that I just have to try. Four for $15, or $3.75 each!

I'm a babe in the woods on the modeling end, but I will have to finally dive in if it hasn't been done already!

Add some dimensions. I’ll model it up!

What is the best way to buff or sand out the print lines? How are you experts doing it?

You can download the file from the models posted on Thingiverse.

Here is the print in Prusa PETG Galaxy Black. BTW, I don't actually own the game but a friend does who's been looking for a solution to the flipper coils getting sluggish during long plays.

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What fan are you guys using for these? Do you have a link?

about to pull trigger on prusa mini. Should I get a filament sensor?

The parts are on the Thingiverse page:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5788725

But here's a direct link to the fans:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQDMMJ5/

Can't speak for the mini, but MK5 has it built in and has come in handy for me countless times. Honestly, I'm surprised you can buy the mini without one.

Yeah.. considering they are a premium name, it's nickel and diming on a $2 part.. maybe they should get into selling pinball machines.. lol

Thanks! I just wanted to try and challenge/learn before I take the easy way out.

I came really close to yours, but I made my spacing between hexagons a little too big. But it was close!

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It's a $20 add-on for the mini and worth it for peace of mind IMO

Nice job. My hexagons are .8mm wide (two .4mm lines) and I followed the insets on the X & Y axis of the original model to keep things opened up a little more.

Just experimenting with X1C. This is hatchbox metallic silver, plain black, proto pasta blood of my enemies (red eyes), overture glow in the dark teeth.

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Wow. I need to buy one of those.

How long to print?