Let me know what you find out.
Inserting the screen is the challenge.

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I will do it on the textured bed so the outside are finished and anything that the sticker does not cover will be presentable.

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Lay it on its side and you could print in two pieces and glue together. Could even print tabs to snap opposite side on.

I know you are using solid works, but something like this with simple shapes could be knocked out in less than 30 mins on something as basic as Tinkercad.

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Ok day one with my S1 pro and new to this whole thing. A few crazy challenges but I got this done. Lol a test bunny and a Mando!

Tomorrow a mode for Mando that I have been working on before I had a printer.

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Looks like you are not getting good bed adhesion.

Also check your belt tension. Looks like they might need to be tightened up just a bit?

On the first two rabbits before the hood one it got up like 5 layers and broke loose. I clean the pad with alcohol and it sticks good now. But the corners of the larger piece for Mando are curled up a little. Is the bed to hot?

Thanks! If the belt is not tight what does that cause?

How sensitive is PLA to moisture, do you really need air tight vacuum bags?

It's really not that sensitive. If you're in a super humid environment, it may be a concern. But it's usually going overboard to worry about drying things out. YMMV of course, but I've had spools for months sitting which have no issue printing a nice output.

could slip, which would throw off the position and you'll end up with skewed layers. think of a cnc machine running code, turning off the machine, moving the head, then resuming cutting. the machine has no idea the head is out of position.

tightening the belt will minimize those lines you see for each layer. They won't disappear entirely, but you'll have a more uniform look. This print isn't bad by any means, but I'd still do it. I need to do that on mine too -

Thanks for the info and follow-up!

I thought about raising the bed temp as well to see how that works. When I get printing today I'm going to try that.

Today I am print Mondo mod parts. I will share out pictures on the prints when done.

Thanks everyone for the help and recommendations on how to improve!!

MMU2 is a dumpster fire across Prusa groups. Lots of people can't get it to work partially, if at all.

I still have my mmu kit new in the box if you (or anyone else) want to try it. $200.

No. I bagged my PLA religiously the first year or so I was into 3D printing. It was becoming a real pain with about 30 spools or so, so I decided I'd try not bagging. 3 years later I've not had a single quality issue with just storing my PLA openly in a non-sealed cabinet. I typically go through spools fairly quickly, but I do have several colors that are 3+ years old that I use rarely that still perform as well as the day I bought them.

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PLA is incredibly tolerant of temperature changes *AFTER* it has been printed and has cooled - so you can have some issues if your fans aren't controlling the temperature or if your bed isn't allowing good adhesion, and the first layer is moving around. Even a tiny movement of a micrometer can cause the adhesion to fail - usually in a larger print, the rest of the print sticks fine and you have no problems. I have very few prints that don't have an issue in SOME part - usually a tiny bit in a corner. 99% of the time it's in the back, or otherwise "good enough"

Mine becomes brittle after a few weeks after opening. Happens if I don't go through the spool fast enough and even if I have them stored in some cabinets. Our overall environment in our part of town is pretty humid, so in my case requires extra care

Not sure what brands you use, but I'm almost exclusively Prusament and 3D Solutech (I have a few other oddball brand rolls). Also, mine are in my home office (e.g. climate controlled).

A couple of things to suggest. For bed adhesion, you can print with a brim. This will help the curling. Your Mando print looks like the flow is slightly over-extruding (the top edge has a bit of a lip, that’s a symptom of overextrusion). I’d dial it back 3-4 points. As others mentionned, tighten your belts a bit, that will help with some of the surface texture.

In my experience, the 3 most important things in dialing in a printer are: a level bed, properly calibrated flow, and proper first-layer height. Each of these has very specific ways of adjustment which you can research for Prusas.

Good luck.

Climate controlled but some areas of the house feel more humid than others. Mostly use hatchbox and sunlu. was just mentioning that in some cases, depending of environment and probably brand as well, moisture can play a role. The filament that does last me after a few months of storage have been those put in sealed containers. Any other just end up snapping as I'm trying to feed it into the machine without much effort

Thanks for sharing your experience! I’m in total learning mode and this helps a lot.

This was totally helpful and the mod that is printing is looking amazing. Thank you. I will post my days haul later. Please comment where needed!!

It took quite a bit for me to get mine working semi reliably, but it was still a crap shoot when or how it would fail. It really stood out as my MK3 prints so rock solid. Multi color is neat to play around with, but prints take forever and there is wasted filament. I was most intrigued to try it with soluble supports. Only attempted HIPS and PETG and was not impressed with how that worked out. I bought a spool of PVA for water dissolvable, but never could convince myself to try it out because it's an expensive filament and I didn't want to waste it

The one area where I think the MMU is actually quite helpful is just having multiple spools ready to print in single color prints. Either for same colors so when a spool runs out, it can switch automatically and keep printing. Or if you typically print parts that require different colors or materials. It's nice for remote printing and not having to go and load/unload every time you print something different.

One drawback which I haven't seen mentioned in forums or bug reports, is that for some odd reason the MMU doesn't go into a neutral position when printing. Meaning, the drive gears are always engaged on the filament even if the motor is turned off. The end effect of this is extra drag on the main extruder which limits print speed. Sometimes I like to kick the print speed up manually and was finding that I was under extruding after a small increase in speed. All the MMU has to do is rotate slightly to remove the resistance and it would be fine. Honestly I think so many people abandoned using the thing, problems are just not reported anymore.

The upcoming Mega's tool changer will be a huge step forward.

I print remotely in my non-climate controlled shop. Humidity is decently high. I print plenty of PLA+ with the spools left open to the environment for months on end. I had generally ignored the need to keep things sealed as I never noticed print failures that I could attribute to wet filament. I changed my mind a little on this after I spent a considerable amount of time trying to tune out some minor stringing that was annoying me. I modified an old food dehydrator that I had collecting dust, and sure enough it completely cured it. So now, if there is anything I care about how it looks, I'll pop any exposed spools in the dehydrator for a couple hours ahead of time just to save on post process de-stringing. As was eluded to, it does seem specific formulations (brands and colors) tend to vary in susceptibility.

I have a dry box I keep all of my filament in and I've definitely noticed in the summer when it's humid they can start to pick up water and you get artifacts. In the winter I don't bother because the humidity is so low.

One thing I've noticed too is that once a roll is wet it's hard to fix. I know people say you can put them in the over or a dehydrator but it's never made a difference for me. Maybe the rolls I had were too far gone or had some sort of factory defect though, it's only happened a few times and I just assume it's moisture related.

Whenever my edges start to curl up like that I give it a good cleaning with acetone and it brings it back. Depends on the type of bed you have though. When I printed on glass I would use glue and then I changed to sugar water and found it worked amazingly well for adhesion and it rinses off really easily.

Do this if you are worried. Bag all of your filaments except for one as an experiment. Over time if you don't have any issues with the unbagged one, then I'd say you can completely lose the bags.

As others have pointed out, high or fluctuating humidity may be an issue over time.

Not mine but a Bambu group member on Facebook posted his Mecha Godzilla print on his X1 Carbon. I may have to make this into a topper.

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Lol. I remember when I saw this tip posted on reddit someone asked the same thing.

I think it was a 2: 1 ratio of water to sugar. Not as thick as a simple syrup but enough that it started to get that yellowish look a syrup has.

It worked really well for adhesion, was really easy to apply with a paper towel and it cleaned up really easy with a bit of water. Maybe don't do it if you live somewhere that it would attract ants, but for me it worked great. Much easier to deal with than hairspray or glue stick.

I have seen it!
It needs to go in the game and replace the magnet

Hey - That's my build!

haha! small world.

Great work. How many parts is it and how long did it take to print/build?

Hey I know that guy

Same here, then I got lazy. Not uncommon for me to have PLA (eSun) that's been loaded up on the printer for a good 6 months w/o issues. Humidity is ~50% most of the year (according to the smart home sensors).

Like others, I also leave PLA open over long periods with no obvious issues, as long as it's sitting on a shelf. One thing that does happen, though, is that if I leave it loaded in the printer for about a week, the section that is unspooled will get so brittle that it will break while just sitting there. I have to clear the "bowden tube" (it's really just a tube that feeds a direct drive extruder), then work back to the spool snapping the filament until I find flexible stuff again. Once I do that, it prints fine.

3D printing day 2 was going great until……

So the day was going great printing grey, Mando mod check, Godzilla perfect, god as a SS gift check, then…..

Loaded Green.

Boom they were not sticking the same to the bed. Lesson do different colors act differently even if from the same manufacturer?? Well day 3 time to experiment.

Loving the learning process.

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This morning starting with Black and a mod for Godzilla. Let’s see how this PLA prints. Time to start making notes.

Fantastic job. I know that it's a very large scale and took quite a bit of material and time to build. Really impressive.