(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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#201 3 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Do you have a cannon mod for your ACDC? And if so, are you happy with it?
A custom cannon shell would be a more ambitious project to tackle.

I was thinking the same thing, I had the cheap Cannon but didn't like it. Maybe just a nice barrel that is a little longer and contoured.

19
#202 3 years ago

My Christmas gift to the 3D printer community .

This was a lot of work and I sold enough .... 100 bucks each painted.. Please don't be a dick and try to sell.

Enjoy guys and happy printing , Allen

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4691034

#203 3 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

My Christmas gift to the 3D printer community .
This was a lot of work and I sold enough .... 100 bucks each painted.. Please don't be a dick and try to sell.
Enjoy guys and happy printing , Allen
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4691034

Nice!

#204 3 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

My Christmas gift to the 3D printer community .
This was a lot of work and I sold enough .... 100 bucks each painted.. Please don't be a dick and try to sell.
Enjoy guys and happy printing , Allen
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4691034

Awesome! Do you have any pics of it painted and/or installed?

#205 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

Awesome! Do you have any pics of it painted and/or installed?

10E9DA3C-8F43-435D-AA8D-BA93F5054F8F (resized).jpeg10E9DA3C-8F43-435D-AA8D-BA93F5054F8F (resized).jpeg6DFBD6F2-481E-448B-BE6C-4479902766D3 (resized).jpeg6DFBD6F2-481E-448B-BE6C-4479902766D3 (resized).jpegC9ECF401-B1D5-4BB9-A394-09D9F4324F39 (resized).jpegC9ECF401-B1D5-4BB9-A394-09D9F4324F39 (resized).jpegEC47986E-FEEC-4DD9-8C1C-278B12FC3183 (resized).jpegEC47986E-FEEC-4DD9-8C1C-278B12FC3183 (resized).jpeg
#206 3 years ago

Installed

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#207 3 years ago

Can you post a picture of how the back is lit up?

#208 3 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Can you post a picture of how the back is lit up?

Do you mean the arch . ....If so its a strip led that I kink in threee segments.. Wires run down the inside of the Right post and out the back of the foot.

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#209 3 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Do you mean the arch . ....If so its a strip led that I kink in threee segments.. Wires run down the inside of the Right post and out the back of the foot.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Cool - just wondering how it was done. Nice work.

#210 3 years ago

That’s an awesome mod! Thanks for sharing

#211 3 years ago

My NGG was missing a ramp plastic, designed a simple bracket. "Riveting" the plastic with my soldering iron worked very well!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4693903

ngg (resized).jpgngg (resized).jpg
14
#212 3 years ago

I don't do thingiverse but if you register with Shapeways (no catches, info won't be shared) and head to these you will then see the download button. 17 items with a mix of mod, tools etc - will add more in the future.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdownload&sort=newest

I do ask that these are for personal use only and not to be shared on other websites and not to be on-sold

Have a best as possible Merry Christmas and may 2021 be a better year.

-1
#213 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

I don't do thingiverse but if you register with Shapeways (no catches, info won't be shared) and head to these you will then see the download button. 17 items with a mix of mod, tools etc - will add more in the future.
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdownload&sort=newest
I do ask that these are for personal use only and not to be shared on other websites and not to be on-sold
Have a best as possible Merry Christmas and may 2021 be a better year.

These ones you have to pay for?
People were generously sharing for free.

#214 3 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

These ones you have to pay for?
People were generously sharing for free.

You can download them for free, the stuff he has posted you only pay to have them printed for you.

#215 3 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Do you mean the arch . ....If so its a strip led that I kink in threee segments.. Wires run down the inside of the Right post and out the back of the foot.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Interesting you print the entire thing in clear then paint the desired sections. That's s good idea - I would have thought it was two different filaments.

Thanks for sharing.

#216 3 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

You can download them for free, the stuff he has posted you only pay to have them printed for you.

Ah OK - got it.

Thanks for the information so I (we) understand. Cool of swinks!

#217 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

I don't do thingiverse but if you register with Shapeways (no catches, info won't be shared) and head to these you will then see the download button. 17 items with a mix of mod, tools etc - will add more in the future.
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdownload&sort=newest
I do ask that these are for personal use only and not to be shared on other websites and not to be on-sold
Have a best as possible Merry Christmas and may 2021 be a better year.

Wow! That is very very cool. Thanks Swinks!

#218 3 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Interesting you print the entire thing in clear then paint the desired sections. That's s good idea - I would have thought it was two different filaments.
Thanks for sharing.

I had thought the same, was thinking the letters were done separate in clear and glued in. Only issue with painting I imagine (having painted on a clear mod before) is that multiple coats of paint would be needed. Probably no big deal for a mod like this with not too many colors / details but tedious fir mods with a bunch of colors going on and/or with a lot of details.

#219 3 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

These ones you have to pay for?
People were generously sharing for free.

yes they can be purchased by those without printers in solid nylon but once you log in there is a download button and you can get the STL file to make yourself.

Enjoy

#220 3 years ago

Was tired of bumping my head on the sharp corners of bakelites on my Midway arcade games. Some quick little bumpers.

EDIT: I realize now that it's all sharp corners Updated with rounded edges

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4695610

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#221 3 years ago

I'm restoring a 1963 Gottlieb Flying Chariots which has seen a lot of neglect. The original plastic score reel guides are brittle and have fallen to pieces. I designed new score reel guide channels to replace the original. I removed the rivets holding in the original plastic guides and have mounted the new ones with 2mm machine screws.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4699213

guide-pic (resized).JPEGguide-pic (resized).JPEGreel-pic (resized).JPGreel-pic (resized).JPG
#222 3 years ago
Quoted from cadmium:

I'm restoring a 1963 Gottlieb Flying Chariots which has seen a lot of neglect. The original plastic score reel guides are brittle and have fallen to pieces. I designed new score reel guide channels to replace the original. I removed the rivets holding in the original plastic guides and have mounted the new ones with 2mm machine screws.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4699213
[quoted image][quoted image]

Are you using PETG, ABS, or Nylon?

#223 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Are you using PETG, ABS, or Nylon?

PLA, I use it for pretty much all my prints.

#224 3 years ago
Quoted from cadmium:

PLA, I use it for pretty much all my prints.

Will that be durable enough?

#225 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Will that be durable enough?

Sure. It's a guide for score reels not a coil stop. I've even used PLA for replacement bracket parts in Bally drop targets. With the right infill PLA can absorb quite a bit.

#226 3 years ago
Quoted from cadmium:

Sure. It's a guide for score reels not a coil stop. I've even used PLA for replacement bracket parts in Bally drop targets. With the right infill PLA can absorb quite a bit.

I think the breakage occurs on these with transport at the pin holes bearing lateral force under the weight of the reel assembly and even the nylon originals are often broken. Does PLA flex or stretch before breaking?

#227 3 years ago
Quoted from cadmium:

Sure. It's a guide for score reels not a coil stop. I've even used PLA for replacement bracket parts in Bally drop targets. With the right infill PLA can absorb quite a bit.

The only thing you'd really need to be aware of is heat and UV light, both of which break down PLA faster than anything else. Sounds like it's inside the backbox, which as long as that doesn't' get too hot (probably not, right?), you'll be fine.

#228 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The only thing you'd really need to be aware of is heat and UV light, both of which break down PLA faster than anything else. Sounds like it's inside the backbox, which as long as that doesn't' get too hot (probably not, right?), you'll be fine.

I keep hearing this yet I've had a Claymore mine tow hitch cover, printed in PLA, on my vehicle a good two years now. It looks the same as the day I printed it, has survived our hot New England summer drought, and below zero winter nights.

#229 3 years ago

A little off topic since it's not a sharing file, but I'll toss it out anyways...

After eventually giving up waiting the GB library to get back in stock, I found this on cgtrader.com ($19)

I do want to point out, it's not the Stern library version, it's different. It's the New York library (albeit, simplified). Additionally, I do want to add that I would have bought the Stern version since we have to go thru the hassle of printing a complex design and painting, but it just never ended up back in stock. Plus I had to mod it so it fits over the old plastic piece's bracket and I updated it so it would utilize the screw next to it for support. Took two rolls of filament to get it to the point I'm happy with it. I may do one in clear so the windows light up.

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#230 3 years ago

Anyone would have a 3d model for an mta-156 and mta-100 crimping tool?

There's one in thingiverde, but it requires a vise, not really practical in most case.

Thanks

#231 3 years ago

Does anybody have a print file for the unobtanium center kick-back piece for Medusa?

#232 3 years ago

I am thinking of jumping into making some 3D mods and am a bit intimidated. Don’t want to buy any software, but see just how hard it really is first. If I cross the software chasm, I will pickup a 3D printer, but I want to learn some EASY software first.

Any recommendation on software to give this a go?

#233 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I am thinking of jumping into making some 3D mods and am a bit intimidated. Don’t want to buy any software, but see just how hard it really is first. If I cross the software chasm, I will pickup a 3D printer, but I want to learn some EASY software first.
Any recommendation on software to give this a go?

Tinkercad is dead simple and free. Start there. Blender is much more powerful, but more difficult. That's the next step.

#234 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I am thinking of jumping into making some 3D mods and am a bit intimidated. Don’t want to buy any software, but see just how hard it really is first. If I cross the software chasm, I will pickup a 3D printer, but I want to learn some EASY software first.
Any recommendation on software to give this a go?

I do 95% of all my design in Tinkercad. It is amazing how complex of a design you can derive by adding/tacking away basic/advanced shapes. There are some limitations for more advanced things, but when you get to that point you can supplement with external solutions (free and paid).

Also, I've used all of the major slicers out there, but have fully bought into PrusaSlicer (formerly Slice3r). It is extremely versatile, free, works with any 3D printer, and once you learn it you can achieve just about anything would would ever want to do with a slicing program. For those that are new, sometimes it is confusing. The basic process is this:

- Design your object in some 3D software and generate an STL file
- Open that STL file in a slicer program to configure print setting and generate a g-code file
- Copy that g-code file to your printer (however such is supported) and print

#235 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I am thinking of jumping into making some 3D mods and am a bit intimidated. Don’t want to buy any software, but see just how hard it really is first. If I cross the software chasm, I will pickup a 3D printer, but I want to learn some EASY software first.
Any recommendation on software to give this a go?

There's nothing to buy except the printer and filament. Very functional and easy to learn software is completely free to use.
I suggest a creality ender 3 PRO or the newest ender 3 variant. I know there are some new ones out but I bought an ender 3 PRO and have never had an issue. I've never put upgrades on it and i've learned a ton when little things go wrong or whatever. It doesn't have the overheat or problem I've seen others talking about here. Its an updated version that has thermal protection. Spend the time building it correctly when you receive it and you'd be surprised how good it works.
Don't go down a rabbit hole getting sucked in to upgrades and adding this or that or changing extruders to direct drive and on and on and on. You don't need any of it. Learn your Ender 3 Pro or Ender 3 V2 and when you're ready to move up and on the Prusa will be waiting.

1.Design in tinkercad. Youtube videos are everywhere and easy to follow.
2.Export/save design as an .stl file to your computer.
3.Open .stl in a slicer program. CURA is the one I use and it's free and simple to learn. Once again youtube. Lots of easy to follow mainstream streamers out there.
4. Once you "slice" the program export it to your 3d folder you created and it will be in g code format. Transfer that to a micro sd (usb adapter is what I use for this) and plug it in your printer and hit print. If your usb adapter/micro sd is installed in your usb port then CURA will automatically ask you if you want to export it to the card when you slice it.

Everyone wants a Prusa including me but they are very expensive and if you lose interest or figure it's not for you, you're out over $1000.
I'll eventually get a prusa if I continue to find use but reality is my Ender 3 Pro is doing everything I need it to do right now.

You can get in to 3d printing for under $250 no problem and if it doesn't work out you can get rid of it and get at least 85% of your money back selling it.

Any questions and everyone on this thread will be happy to answer or point you in the right direction.

also... sites like Thingiverse and myminifactory or stl finder etc... You can find anything you want.
Here's some examples of a couple things I printed without doing a thing except tweaking settings in the cura slicer. Spouse wanted some beach type theme things to go on a radiator cover/case I made. This was with zero to a week of 3d printing experience. Basically plug and play.
All free on thingiverse and myminifactory. Literally downloaded and put in Cura just to adjust my settings and exported to card and then printed. One took like 56 hours I remember. Patience and attention to detail is all you need for 3d printing.
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#236 3 years ago

here's a screenshot of one of my tinkercad pages. When I made my Wonka eggdicator mod I used tinkercad and designed everything right there.
I remember getting the egg off thingiverse cause it was smoother than tinkercad could produce. But i still imported it to tinkercad to use and resize for my application. Don't be intimidated, just do it. I was right there with you.

Quoted from Markharris2000:

I am thinking of jumping into making some 3D mods and am a bit intimidated. Don’t want to buy any software, but see just how hard it really is first. If I cross the software chasm, I will pickup a 3D printer, but I want to learn some EASY software first.
Any recommendation on software to give this a go?

Screenshot 2020-12-29 08 (resized).jpgScreenshot 2020-12-29 08 (resized).jpg
#237 3 years ago

Any thoughts on the Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D V2 printer? I know it's smaller but it gets good reviews it seems. Mainly looking to make smaller parts here and there, but it seems like it's pretty much ready to go right out of the box.

#238 3 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Any thoughts on the Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D V2 printer? I know it's smaller but it gets good reviews it seems. Mainly looking to make smaller parts here and there, but it seems like it's pretty much ready to go right out of the box.

As mikep mentioned, I'd go with a Ender 3 from Creality (I use one). While the Monoprice seems popular, I think you will regret getting the smaller build plate rather quickly. Maybe splurge for the V2. Perhaps get a better build plate for adhesion for better leveling. One of the nice things w/the Ender 3 is the huge community support and just a ton of aftermarket support. It is a 'kit', but it's a quick build and not hard at all. One note: If you get the Ender 3, make sure it has the new version of the motherboard installed (4.2.2 or 4.2.7), it has a lot of improvements. The newer 3's have been shipping with them, but if you buy off of eBay or some other web site, might be the old version.

Be prepared for a learning curve and maybe some initial intimidation. But in the end, it really comes together rather quickly once you get your feet wet, just a bunch of baby steps. Bed leveling is another issue a beginner has to get use too, but that also comes easy after a bit (if your bed is flat and not warped).

This guy has some great Ender 3 videos. Here's one on getting your first printer (Ender 3):

https://creality3d.shop/collections/3d-printer/products/creality-ender-3-3d-printer-economic-ender-diy-kits-with-resume-printing-function-v-slot-prusa-i3-220x220x250mm?msclkid=61d8cca314591750d41e93483a05f0e2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Search-Ender-PC-LSR-US&utm_term=creality%20ender%203&utm_content=ender

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#239 3 years ago

Someone responded a few posts back you can do anything in tinkercard. This is true. Here's my Wonkavator version I designed using tinkercard.
It is not in my game though because I turned it into the wonkavator plastic cover instead. 2nd pic you can see it in the background.

It's important to note here I have zero design skill and don't claim to have any. But if I can do this I can't imagine what someone with some creativity can do.

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#240 3 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Any thoughts on the Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D V2 printer? I know it's smaller but it gets good reviews it seems. Mainly looking to make smaller parts here and there, but it seems like it's pretty much ready to go right out of the box.

I've owned 2 of them.. they're fine, but money would be better spent on an ender3 (I owned three of those). ALL chinese printers lack proper cooling. Not saying it won't print out of the box, but you won't be able to print very fast. There's usually a fan mod for every printer on thingiverse. Don't look for some special cowling with the stock fan, the stock fans hardly push any air. You want a mod where it includes a link to a more powerful fan (which you'll simply splice into the existing wires).

#241 3 years ago

As far as design software
Tinkercad seems to be the most user friendly, but is very limited on shapes (and spheres tend to generate facets).
Blender is the next advanced step (which is also good for organic shapes), but don't expect to design anything with tight fits

If you want to design real stuff where you can design tight fits, assemble parts, design in multi-body, section through your model to check interferences, you need to step up to either fusion360 or solidworks. I'm very biased using solidworks for the past 15 years (and pro-engineer before that).

#242 3 years ago

I'll echo what everyone else is saying, it matches my experience as well. Go with an ender3 as a first printer, I own one and a CR20-Pro (basically the same thing) I've also had 2 CR-10's, a Monoprice Mini select, and a Prusa Mk3 clone. Right now I have a Folgertech FT-5, ender3, CR20-Pro and a Monoprice Mini Delta.

As for design and slicing software, Tinkercad is capable and free, but I'm using Fusion360. There is a free version of Fusion, but Autodesk has recently crippled it a bit. As for slicing, I bought Simplify3D for some of the projects I work on, but I also use Cura on occasion. Each slicer seems to have their strengths and weaknesses.

#243 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

There's nothing to buy except the printer and filament. Very functional and easy to learn software is completely free to use.
I suggest a creality ender 3 PRO or the newest ender 3 variant. I know there are some new ones out but I bought an ender 3 PRO and have never had an issue. I've never put upgrades on it and i've learned a ton when little things go wrong or whatever. It doesn't have the overheat or problem I've seen others talking about here. Its an updated version that has thermal protection. Spend the time building it correctly when you receive it and you'd be surprised how good it works.
Don't go down a rabbit hole getting sucked in to upgrades and adding this or that or changing extruders to direct drive and on and on and on. You don't need any of it. Learn your Ender 3 Pro or Ender 3 V2 and when you're ready to move up and on the Prusa will be waiting.
1.Design in tinkercad. Youtube videos are everywhere and easy to follow.
2.Export/save design as an .stl file to your computer.
3.Open .stl in a slicer program. CURA is the one I use and it's free and simple to learn. Once again youtube. Lots of easy to follow mainstream streamers out there.
4. Once you "slice" the program export it to your 3d folder you created and it will be in g code format. Transfer that to a micro sd (usb adapter is what I use for this) and plug it in your printer and hit print. If your usb adapter/micro sd is installed in your usb port then CURA will automatically ask you if you want to export it to the card when you slice it.
Everyone wants a Prusa including me but they are very expensive and if you lose interest or figure it's not for you, you're out over $1000.
I'll eventually get a prusa if I continue to find use but reality is my Ender 3 Pro is doing everything I need it to do right now.
You can get in to 3d printing for under $250 no problem and if it doesn't work out you can get rid of it and get at least 85% of your money back selling it.
Any questions and everyone on this thread will be happy to answer or point you in the right direction.
also... sites like Thingiverse and myminifactory or stl finder etc... You can find anything you want.
Here's some examples of a couple things I printed without doing a thing except tweaking settings in the cura slicer. Spouse wanted some beach type theme things to go on a radiator cover/case I made. This was with zero to a week of 3d printing experience. Basically plug and play.
All free on thingiverse and myminifactory. Literally downloaded and put in Cura just to adjust my settings and exported to card and then printed. One took like 56 hours I remember. Patience and attention to detail is all you need for 3d printing.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You all have been great! (I didn't even realize the slicer step or the choices to be made there either). I think I will spend some quality time with TinkerCad this weekend, and if I get the hang of it, will set my sights on getting the ender 3 pro printer to start off. But first, I start playing with TinkerCad...

#244 3 years ago

No need to wait on getting the printer, lots of free things you didn't know you needed on Thingiverse!

#245 3 years ago
Quoted from Grauwulf:

No need to wait on getting the printer, lots of free things you didn't know you needed on Thingiverse!

Agreed! It can be addicting (Ender 3d Pro)

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#246 3 years ago
Quoted from mkk629:

Agreed! It can be addicting (Ender 3d Pro)[quoted image][quoted image]

Did you paint all those? Looks nice.

#247 3 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Does anybody have a print file for the unobtanium center kick-back piece for Medusa?

Installing this one tonight, from mezel mods. I think they’re still in the testing phase.

image.jpgimage.jpg
#248 3 years ago
Quoted from mjalexan:

Installing this one tonight, from mezel mods. I think they’re still in the testing phase.

Wonderful! Let me know how it is please. There's a guy in Brazil who sells them on eBay, but it's like $35 with shipping.

#249 3 years ago

I wanted to mention another tool that you can add to your bag of tricks. OpenSCAD is an open source solid 3d CAD modeler and is free to use under GPL. It offers a degree of precision that you won't find with Tinkercad. It is unusual in that it is not an interactive modeler. You create objects by writing a descriptive script. While it is not meant to compete with high end commercial software, there are some things that it does very well.

I created this Robby the Robot model in OpenSCAD a few years ago, while I was learning the application and its scripting syntax.

Screen Shot 2020-12-29 at 12.19.30 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-12-29 at 12.19.30 PM (resized).png

#250 3 years ago

A few things I've modelled/printed, so will share..

---

Spotlight - Allows a wedge bulb to slot in the back without support (that might be due to my poorly calibrated 3d printer?

Black hides it inside the machine, spray inside cone white to reflect moreBlack hides it inside the machine, spray inside cone white to reflect more

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4664282

---

Atari coin slot surround

Screenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.12.41 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.12.41 (resized).png

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3602104

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Flipper Button Supports

Screenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.13.27 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.13.27 (resized).png

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3531703

Used these in a Track and Field 4 player cocktail build, but good for pinball?

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A few things that I have printed BUT I DID NOT DESIGN (before...you know..)

Getaway HSII Switch Cover Sign

Screenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.16.57 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.16.57 (resized).png

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3161926

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Getaway Dognut (sic) House

Screenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.18.16 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.18.16 (resized).png

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3340346

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Marshall Stack for Heavy Metal Meltdown

Didn't model this, but printed it for a buddy after scaling it.

Screenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.26.50 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.26.50 (resized).png

Screenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.19.35 (resized).pngScreenshot 2020-12-29 at 22.19.35 (resized).png

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1227021

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