Birmingham, AL
Great thread! I'm looking for STL file for:
- Stern Fire Button Surround Plate (Fire & Select, Punch It)
- Stern Godzilla Premium placard badge (Above left speaker grill) - or any Stern LE placard.
(Topic ID: 246329)
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Quoted from vestaviascott:Great thread! I'm looking for STL file for:
- Stern Fire Button Surround Plate (Fire & Select, Punch It)
- Stern Godzilla Premium placard badge (Above left speaker grill) - or any Stern LE placard.
Not posted on Thingiverse?
Quoted from vestaviascott:Great thread! I'm looking for STL file for:
- Stern Fire Button Surround Plate (Fire & Select, Punch It)
- Stern Godzilla Premium placard badge (Above left speaker grill) - or any Stern LE placard.
I've not seen this fire button surround plate - but the badge is posted on Thingiverse
The badge holder (back plate) is on thingaverse and printables. I'm looking for the placard itself. The one that appears on the Godzilla LE that the badge holder is made to hold. It could be a sticker or decal, I'm not certain. I think it would be cool as a two color print tho. I did already print out the badge holder, its great.
Quoted from vestaviascott:[quoted image]
Is the photo the placard you're looking for? Just trying to make sure I'm tracking here.
If so, that's a flat piece which wouldn't be 3D printed - you'd have better luck doing that on a laser printer (e.g. Glowforge or similar). This is easier since it's just a 2D image
Quoted from vestaviascott:[quoted image]
Can you post a picture that is level and straight in line. Thanks
Quoted from Spiderpin:Can you post a picture that is level and straight in line. Thanks
Mississauga, ON
If anyone wants to know you can take an image like that ,put it in a program like gimp. use the color select tool to export each color as an SVG and import it right into a program like fusion. Extrude each color to a different height and you've got yourself a two color print.
Saw this on the Bambu Lab user group yesterday. looks like BL is prepping to compete at the lower cost level before going larger. Rumor is $550 cost on the P1P.
Quoted from taylor34:The CR printers and prusa's are printers for hackers. Great if you want to piecemeal together things into the greatest printer ever, awful out of the box experience and error prone.
Just chiming in with everyone else to disagree and say my Prusa Mk3 was easy to use day one and has had almost no issues for years.
There is no way to 3D print that Godzilla sign in a way that won't look like garbage. It's just the wrong tech.
Quoted from vestaviascott:Great thread! I'm looking for STL file for:
- Stern Fire Button Surround Plate (Fire & Select, Punch It)
- Stern Godzilla Premium placard badge (Above left speaker grill) - or any Stern LE placard.
I will search the Godzilla threads, see what I can find.
Quoted from Aurich:Just chiming in with everyone else to disagree and say my Prusa Mk3 was easy to use day one and has had almost no issues for years.
My Prusa MK3S+ is a beast performer. Far more reliable and simpler to operate than any of the previous 3 printers I used. Actually, Prusa printers are designed with simplicity in mind, but are also so flexible and mod friendly that advanced users can push the printer to its limits. Also, if/when you do need support, they are always accessible and responsive in my experience.
Quoted from Aurich:There is no way to 3D print that Godzilla sign in a way that won't look like garbage. It's just the wrong tech.
If it's a metal plate you want, you can have it laser etched professionally (or have a friend with a laser engraver do it for you). Typically you just have to provide a black & white image in whatever the laser engraver's preferred format is.
Quoted from Aurich:There is no way to 3D print that Godzilla sign in a way that won't look like garbage. It's just the wrong tech.
On an FDM, for sure. Unless you were doing it much larger where the printer could handle the fine detail.
But I would guess that an SLA or SLS printer would do a great job with the basic form and relief. Then you could prime it with a white base (or just print it in white to begin with), then roll black onto the relief with a solid rubber roller, and it would look pretty good.
And honestly, for some people, if you used a really fine extruder nozzle and a high-precision printer, I'll bet a two-color FDM print would be "good enough". It's not what I'd want, but not everyone has the same bar for quality.
Quoted from vestaviascott:Great thread! I'm looking for STL file for:
- Stern Fire Button Surround Plate (Fire & Select, Punch It)
- Stern Godzilla Premium placard badge (Above left speaker grill) - or any Stern LE placard.
Found the one image.
download (2) (resized).jpegQuoted from Aurich:Just chiming in with everyone else to disagree and say my Prusa Mk3 was easy to use day one and has had almost no issues for years.
I've only started 3D printing a few months ago. My first printer was an ender 3 pro v2. Terrible out of box experience, never got it dialed in and returned it. Picked up a used Prusa Mini and it has been brain dead simple to operate. It basically is on autopilot. Amazing experience, I can't imagine it being any simpler or fool proof than Prusa.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:If it's a metal plate you want, you can have it laser etched professionally (or have a friend with a laser engraver do it for you). Typically you just have to provide a black & white image in whatever the laser engraver's preferred format is.
For a result that looks like that I'd try CeraMark on a CO2 laser. You spray it on, give it a low power etch, and anywhere the laser hits it will bond with the metal. Then you wash it off and have a pretty permanent contrasting mark on your metal.
FDM printing is just not going to handle it well, there's way too much fine detail, even with a small nozzle it's going to look bad.
Quoted from pete_d:But I would guess that an SLA or SLS printer would do a great job with the basic form and relief. Then you could prime it with a white base (or just print it in white to begin with), then roll black onto the relief with a solid rubber roller, and it would look pretty good.
True. A bit like doing a resin-based block print, but just skipping the actual print part and leaving it on. Could be interesting. Since the discussion was about a two color print I was really only thinking about FDM.
Quoted from Aurich:There is no way to 3D print that Godzilla sign in a way that won't look like garbage. It's just the wrong tech.
Maybe if you scale it up 500% lol... it's the little details that would make me think this one won't print well. A redesign that's more appropriate for 3d printing would work.
I used to make a lot of 3d art prints like this and these are the two with the finest details. Not really comparable to the fine details on that picture.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3319554
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3319578
Quoted from Spiderpin:Can you post a picture that is level and straight in line. Thanks
Here is another version with less detail on the figures (converted to QR code style halftone filter):
godzilla2 (resized).png
Original:
godzilla (resized).png
Alternate:
godzilla3 (resized).pngQuoted from Aurich:Just chiming in with everyone else to disagree and say my Prusa Mk3 was easy to use day one and has had almost no issues for years.
Welp, I just must the unlucky smuck who had his printer self destruct on him twice in limited use. I just expected more quality for the price. Like this is the GUI of the printer I use that's like 1/2 the price (mines not an x-max, but it's the same gui):
It's like infinitely easier to do things on. Even shows me what I'm printing.
I need to work on my prusa and get it going again here sometime. After I replaced the hotend it starting having this issue where things in the upper right corner of the build plate started to be poor quality, like there's some sort of leveling or alignment issue now. After that happened with my previous problems I haven't really turned it on in the past 6 months. I'd sell it if anyone is interested, everyone thinks this is the best well they can buy mine. Or buy my mmu2s kit, I'll sell that too.
Btw, if you guys really want more in depth knowledge about 3d printers, you should listen to the 3d printers today podcast, probably the best 3d printing podcast out there. Those two guys are experts and have had like every printer under the sun. Shockingly, also not high on prusa either, lol, I think mainly because they don't think it's a very good value for your money. So it's not just me, listen to the experts there and see what they say. Unfortunately, I didn't find their podcast till after I bought my prusa I don't think. They're doing things like E3d tool changer, etc. I do think that the prusa XL looks interesting, wish it was cheaper but it does what I want in a 3d printer.
Quoted from taylor34:Welp, I just must the unlucky smuck who had his printer self destruct on him twice in limited use.
It does happen from time to time, that a lemon makes it out of manufacturing. But you should have been able to get Prusa to make good when that happens.
I just expected more quality for the price. Like this is the GUI of the printer I use that's like 1/2 the price (mines not an x-max, but it's the same gui)
Honestly, I don't find the user interface to be correlated with the quality of the device. I mean, sure...all else equal I'd rather have a shiny GUI. But there are lots of things with shiny GUIs on them that suck, and there are lots of things with very basic user interfaces that do the actual job they are supposed to do very well.
I need to work on my prusa and get it going again here sometime. After I replaced the hotend it starting having this issue where things in the upper right corner of the build plate started to be poor quality, like there's some sort of leveling or alignment issue now.
Do you have the textured build plate from Prusa? FWIW, that's what I have, and the only times I've had any sort of adhesion problems it was either bed calibration, or the build plate needed washing. It's usually the latter, but I did find once that for whatever reason I needed to adjust the bed level correction settings (see e.g. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267). I suspect some wear on the build plate, as one of my kids had misadjusted the z-level setting and damaged just the thinnest bit of the surface of the plate.
Here's a blog post that does a good job getting into the fine details of ironing out any first-layer issues with a Prusa: https://www.iascaled.com/blog/optimizing-print-quality-on-a-prusa-mk3s/
After that happened with my previous problems I haven't really turned it on in the past 6 months. I'd sell it if anyone is interested, everyone thinks this is the best well they can buy mine.
As long as you're up front about the fact that you seem to have gotten a bad one, that seems like a fine approach.
Btw, if you guys really want more in depth knowledge about 3d printers, you should listen to the 3d printers today podcast, probably the best 3d printing podcast out there.
I get my 3D printing info from a wide range of sources. I would never trust just a single source for most information, and especially not for printer reviews and other kinds of assessments.
The podcast you like may well be the best out there. I don't know. But given your bad experience with your Prusa, it seems to me you are predisposed to agree with the podcast and reinforce your high opinion of them when they bad-mouth the Prusa. You might not be the most objective viewpoint when it comes to the quality of that podcast.
I had a hell of a time with the textured print surface on my Prusa, ended up going to the smooth one and not having any problems. Also the material it uses needs to be refreshed once in a while. If you give it a good wipe down with acetone it will adhere much better.
If it was a kit that you built yourself it might not be perfectly square either. They have some tests in the menus to check for that, but I found that even after everything passed the tests I needed to do some adjusting to the live z number to get it to stick well.
And yeah the Prusa interface is probably the worst point on the machine, but that's what octoprint is for 
Quoted from Anony:the material it uses needs to be refreshed once in a while. If you give it a good wipe down with acetone it will adhere much better
Just to be clear: this is not what Prusa recommends, and there is considerable debate about whether it's actually needed. The textured plate has a PEI surface, and PEI will become brittle with repeated exposure to acetone. Prusa's own knowledge base article about bed cleaning specifically warns about this, and says to use acetone only on smooth-surfaced plates, and even then only if you're not printing with PETG (I'm guessing this is because PETG sticks better, so any weakening of the plate surface that acetone causes will be revealed much more quickly with PETG than with other materials): https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804
If you do choose to use acetone, use it only infrequently. IMHO weekly would be too often. Monthly might be okay, depending on what kind of lifespan you want out of the plate.
FWIW, as I mentioned above, I have solved any contamination-related adhesion issues simply by thoroughly washing the plate in dish soap (Dawn...stick with that or another unscented/unadulterated soap that has a strong grease-cutting detergent). Over two years of printing on my MK3S+ and I've never needed anything stronger than that. Soap and water brings the plate back to essentially new performance.
Note, however, that soap and water should be used carefully, as the edge of the plate is not encapsulated in the PEI material, and so water could get under any chips, or if left on the surface, start some rust. Wash with hot, soapy water quickly -- running water only, don't submerge the plate in water -- and definitely don't put it in the dishwasher.
Quoted from pete_d:Just to be clear: this is not what Prusa recommends, and there is considerable debate about whether it's actually needed. The textured plate has a PEI surface, and PEI will become brittle with repeated exposure to acetone. Prusa's own knowledge base article about bed cleaning specifically warns about this, and says to use acetone only on smooth-surfaced plates, and even then only if you're not printing with PETG (I'm guessing this is because PETG sticks better, so any weakening of the plate surface that acetone causes will be revealed much more quickly with PETG than with other materials): https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804
If you do choose to use acetone, use it only infrequently. IMHO weekly would be too often. Monthly might be okay, depending on what kind of lifespan you want out of the plate.
FWIW, as I mentioned above, I have solved any contamination-related adhesion issues simply by thoroughly washing the plate in dish soap (Dawn...stick with that or another unscented/unadulterated soap that has a strong grease-cutting detergent). Over two years of printing on my MK3S+ and I've never needed anything stronger than that. Soap and water brings the plate back to essentially new performance.
Note, however, that soap and water should be used carefully, as the edge of the plate is not encapsulated in the PEI material, and so water could get under any chips, or if left on the surface, start some rust. Wash with hot, soapy water quickly -- running water only, don't submerge the plate in water -- and definitely don't put it in the dishwasher.
Now that you mention it I remember seeing that Prusa recommends against this.
I gave up on the textured plate after so much frustration. I did try the dish soap cleaning but it didn't seem to help. I only use the smooth one now, but the acetone does wonders with it. I read that PEI needs to be saturated in acetone to refresh it everyone once in a while. A wipe down is not enough and so far it's worked amazingly well for me. I've been cleaning mine with acetone on a regular basis for 2 years now, and every so often splashing it directly on so it can soak in with no ill effects that I've noticed. I just know that if I am having adhesion issues it will go back to sticking almost too well after I treat it with acetone.
So don't take my post as a recommendation, but it's certainly worked well for me on the smooth one which I believe is PEI as well.
Quoted from Anony:Now that you mention it I remember seeing that Prusa recommends against this.
I gave up on the textured plate after so much frustration. I did try the dish soap cleaning but it didn't seem to help. I only use the smooth one now, but the acetone does wonders with it. I read that PEI needs to be saturated in acetone to refresh it everyone once in a while. A wipe down is not enough and so far it's worked amazingly well for me. I've been cleaning mine with acetone on a regular basis for 2 years now, and every so often splashing it directly on so it can soak in with no ill effects that I've noticed. I just know that if I am having adhesion issues it will go back to sticking almost too well after I treat it with acetone.
So don't take my post as a recommendation, but it's certainly worked well for me on the smooth one which I believe is PEI as well.
Prusa seems more "okay" with using acetone on smooth sheets. I would guess that it's harder to remove any excess acetone from the textured sheets, and so the acetone gets more time to mess with the chemical makeup of the plastic on them.
Personally, I love my textured sheet. Everything sticks to it, once things are cooled off everything comes right off, and the texture itself leaves a printed surface that hides the perimeter and fill lines better. It even works great for TPU, though it takes a little more work to get some of the larger TPU prints off (a plastic pry tool works great for that).
But based on Prusa's article, I'd guess if you like the smooth sheet better and you want to clean it with acetone, that's "fine" as long as you're careful and don't overdo it.
I use the smooth sheet on my Prusa, and I just wipe it down with isopropyl. Works fine, not as harsh. YMMV, but works for me.
Quoted from Aurich:I use the smooth sheet on my Prusa, and I just wipe it down with isopropyl. Works fine, not as harsh. YMMV, but works for me.
Same. I do seem to have to wipe it down more often of late - but I must have printed with it for 7,8 months without doing a single thing. Printing every day
I use 3 different sheets on my Prusa: Smooth (PEI coated), Satin, and Textured. While all sheets work with PLA & PETG, they do have their limits and preferences (e.g. PLA is easiest to print on the smooth sheet, PETG on the Satin or Textured sheet for easy release, etc.) Also, I use acetone on the smooth PEI coated for a perfectly clean surface, but acetone can damage the textured sheets so I use a highly concentrated isopropyl alcohol on those. Been doing this method for years and haven't had any issues with performance of any of the sheets.
The key is dialing in independent first layer calibrations for each material type on each type of sheet (MK3s+ supports multiple calibrations, and it is simple switching between them).
Can someone please point me to the stl for Toy Story figure holders?
I am trying to add some more character cake toppers and I remember someone had created the base holders. Thanks!
#star-trek-the-next-generation laser cannon
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5637881
Quoted from dudah:Star Trek: The Next Generation laser cannon
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5637881
Great work, thank you for sharing.
Osnabrück
Has anyone with the Prusa Mini+ changed out the Bowden extruder with a direct drive version? I'd be interested in learning about your experience and what improvements it brought.
Quoted from mostater:Has anyone with the Prusa Mini+ changed out the Bowden extruder with a direct drive version? I'd be interested in learning about your experience and what improvements it brought.
The best extruder in my option was the Bondtech upgrade, which I have and am happy with it. You can then print Flex and it just seems better than the original because it has two gripping points of the filament. You do have to change the .gcode because it runs opposite than the original.
https://www.bondtech.se/product/ifs-extruder-for-prusa-mini/
The issue going direct is that it's too much weight for the single cantilever arm design of the mini. The advantage of a Bowden extruder system is to reduce the weight of the print head which if excessive causes issues.
Quoted from scottieIA:The best extruder in my option was the Bondtech upgrade, which I have and am happy with it. You can then print Flex and it just seems better than the original because it has two gripping points of the filament. You do have to change the .gcode because it runs opposite than the original.
https://www.bondtech.se/product/ifs-extruder-for-prusa-mini/
The issue going direct is that it's too much weight for the single cantilever arm design of the mini. The advantage of a Bowden extruder system is to reduce the weight of the print head which if excessive causes issues.
This is almost vertbatim what I was going to post. I have not used a direct drive on my Prusa, but I have on other printers, and it's just not worth the extra wear. The difference is negligible (unless say you have a Bowden tube that's not perfectly cut or is otherwise leaking), and the extra weight does have an obvious impact. You exchange the slightly better feed and retraction for more hassle with the motors and belts. Wasn't for me.
Quoted from dudah:Star Trek: The Next Generation laser cannon
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5637881
You just gave me my next project, great job, thank you.
I’ve looked and haven’t found much. Newer to the hobby and enjoying it so far.
Looking for an action button placard for Black Knight premium. Just seems so bland compared to the rest of my Sterns that have something around the button
Had some free time so I decided to try my hand at modeling a scoop protector for my Rush. Printed it out in TPU and it seems to be working so far. Had a bunch of help on an issue with my TMNT pin the other day so I figured I should give back to the community. So here is the STL, print and use at your own risk and please don't sell the STL. I'm no modeling expert so if anyone want to try and improve the design feel free.
Is anyone, preferably local, interested in a used Prusa MK3S at a significant discount? If so, send me a PM. I have found that I just don't use it since building my Voron.
Quoted from nerdkiller:Had some free time so I decided to try my hand at modeling a scoop protector for my Rush. Printed it out in TPU and it seems to be working so far. Had a bunch of help on an issue with my TMNT pin the other day so I figured I should give back to the community. So here is the STL, print and use at your own risk and please don't sell the STL. I'm no modeling expert so if anyone want to try and improve the design feel free.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5649010
Thanks for posting this, our ninja camp protector broke and they won’t reply………may have to figure out TPU myself
Quoted from herg:Is anyone, preferably local, interested in a used Prusa MK3S at a significant discount? If so, send me a PM. I have found that I just don't use it since building my Voron.
I hate that word local, arghhhh, but I get shipping it would be expensive. I am getting ready to buy this exact printer.
Ken
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I hate that word local, arghhhh, but I get shipping it would be expensive. I am getting ready to buy this exact printer.
Ken
It would be expensive, and I'm really not sure how I'd pack it. I bought as a kit, and since it's built now, it is much trickier. I'd also like the buyer to be able to inspect before buying since it does have some wear.
If you buy new now, you'll get the MK3S+. I haven't done the + upgrade to mine. I'm having a tough time putting a price on it. The used prices I see seem higher than I'd want to pay myself, but I do have some extras that I could put with it (extra build plate, Pi Octoprint, camera).
Quoted from herg:It would be expensive, and I'm really not sure how I'd pack it. I bought as a kit, and since it's built now, it is much trickier. I'd also like the buyer to be able to inspect before buying since it does have some wear.
If you buy new now, you'll get the MK3S+. I haven't done the + upgrade to mine. I'm having a tough time putting a price on it. The used prices I see seem higher than I'd want to pay myself, but I do have some extras that I could put with it (extra build plate, Pi Octoprint, camera).
Yeah, I get it. I do love the local deal. Someone is gonna get a deal no matter what the price.
I am interested in the Prusa. PM sent!
Quoted from herg:Is anyone, preferably local, interested in a used Prusa MK3S at a significant discount? If so, send me a PM. I have found that I just don't use it since building my Voron.
Got the Bambu X1 Carbon this week, finally got around to printing with it today. First impressions:
1) This printer is on a different level than the qidi and prusa I have. Like completely destroys them from a functionality/speed standpoint
2) The default plate I'm having issues getting stuff to stick properly. I've had this issue with almost every printer at first, either it sticks too much or too little and eventually I figure out the secret sauce.
3) I printed one of the things I think takes 8 hours on my qidi and like 7 hours on the prusa. On the Bambu it took 2 1/2 hours. Crazy fast.
4) I haven't tried multicolor yet but am trying that now. It was easy to setup.
5) Quality isn't better or worse than my other printers. About identical.
6) I can print remotely and monitor it via camera/app, and it even sends me notifications when things have gone wrong, and pauses the print if it detects issues.
7) It's built like a tank.
8) It's loud. Not a quiet printer due to the speed I think
I'll see how I like it as I go on. Key thing is what happens when there are issues and I'll have to use it longer to figure out the servicing part. I don't think it's as modifiable as other printers, I think it's pretty set in stone here. I'd really like to use a glass bed but I don't think that's supported yet unfortunately.
Just thought I would give my impressions for now.
Quoted from taylor34:Got the Bambu X1 Carbon this week, finally got around to printing with it today. First impressions:
1) This printer is on a different level than the qidi and prusa I have. Like completely destroys them from a functionality/speed standpoint
2) The default plate I'm having issues getting stuff to stick properly. I've had this issue with almost every printer at first, either it sticks too much or too little and eventually I figure out the secret sauce.
3) I printed one of the things I think takes 8 hours on my qidi and like 7 hours on the prusa. On the Bambu it took 2 1/2 hours. Crazy fast.
4) I haven't tried multicolor yet but am trying that now. It was easy to setup.
5) Quality isn't better or worse than my other printers. About identical.
6) I can print remotely and monitor it via camera/app, and it even sends me notifications when things have gone wrong, and pauses the print if it detects issues.
7) It's built like a tank.
8) It's loud. Not a quiet printer due to the speed I think
I'll see how I like it as I go on. Key thing is what happens when there are issues and I'll have to use it longer to figure out the servicing part. I don't think it's as modifiable as other printers, I think it's pretty set in stone here. I'd really like to use a glass bed but I don't think that's supported yet unfortunately.
Just thought I would give my impressions for now.
Awesome. If money wasn't tight right now I'd be so tempted to get one, it looks super impressive. With that speed you can probably make decent money printing things as a side business too.
Quoted from taylor34:Got the Bambu X1 Carbon this week, finally got around to printing with it today. First impressions:
1) This printer is on a different level than the qidi and prusa I have. Like completely destroys them from a functionality/speed standpoint
2) The default plate I'm having issues getting stuff to stick properly. I've had this issue with almost every printer at first, either it sticks too much or too little and eventually I figure out the secret sauce.
3) I printed one of the things I think takes 8 hours on my qidi and like 7 hours on the prusa. On the Bambu it took 2 1/2 hours. Crazy fast.
4) I haven't tried multicolor yet but am trying that now. It was easy to setup.
5) Quality isn't better or worse than my other printers. About identical.
6) I can print remotely and monitor it via camera/app, and it even sends me notifications when things have gone wrong, and pauses the print if it detects issues.
7) It's built like a tank.
8) It's loud. Not a quiet printer due to the speed I think
I'll see how I like it as I go on. Key thing is what happens when there are issues and I'll have to use it longer to figure out the servicing part. I don't think it's as modifiable as other printers, I think it's pretty set in stone here. I'd really like to use a glass bed but I don't think that's supported yet unfortunately.
Just thought I would give my impressions for now.
Congrats. Love my X1 Carbon. It’s an amazing machine. My Vyper just sits there collecting dust. Really no reason to use it anymore even though I said I would.
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