Quoted from KornFreak28:
Thanks! Not at home at the moment but will do that. How about the bed temp and all that stuff? How do you know which settings to mess with and to what extent?
Experience. There are so many variables at play with 3D printers, it's not really possible to answer that sort of question without writing a whole book.
As has already been explained, as far as bed and nozzle temps, those are already defined in the filament profiles that come with or are otherwise available for the various slicers. If I have a filament for which there's no profile, I just use some other similar filament's profile. That said, all filament comes with their own temperature specifications, and you can use those, but they are often a wide range and so not as helpful as they could be.
For my own part, if I'm testing out a variation on a profile for a filament (which usually I don't even need to do) I tend to try to work at the lower end of whatever nozzle temp is given and the higher end of the bed temperature. The former minimizes "blobby" artifacts and "stringing", while the latter helps keep the part flat and stuck to the print bend. But there are tradeoffs, especially with nozzle temperature where too low a temperature can hinder the strength of the print.
I feel like you might be getting ahead of yourself. Your printer should've come with some basics to get you started, and there's already been info about slicers posts here you can follow up on. For now, just use the temperatures that the slicer provides for you. Once you see how the printing works and have a better feel for what is actually going on, then you can start thinking about if and how you might modify the temperature settings that have already been programmed.
Besides temperatures, there are lots of other settings too. Supports, rafts, brims, skirts, layer heights, infill, to name some of the basic ones, then you get into more esoteric stuff like fill patterns, support patterns, support styles, travel speeds, print speeds for various elements of the print, like perimeters, interiors, bridges, first layers, top layers, filament retraction distances and speeds...3D printing involves all these variables and many more, and if you want to you can really get in the weeds trying to understand and fiddle with them all. I advise that for now, until you have at least a basic understanding of the fundamentals and have actually printed something, don't even think about all this other stuff.
After that, then you might want to think about this other stuff, but only to the extent that you have prints that don't go the way you want. Unless you want to turn this into a full time hobby -- and presumably you've already got pinball, so you don't need another one -- taking a more reactive approach is more efficient. When you have a problem with a print, then you can start asking questions about how to fix that specific problem. The more problems you run into, the more questions you'll ask and have answered, and the more you'll learn. But it's important to have the problems first, so you know what to ask, what to focus on. Otherwise, the topic is way too broad and you'll never get anywhere at all.