Quoted from mbwalker:I reached out to Bowtech about printing and it just so happens we are both going to CLE Pin this weekend. Already printed some for him!
That is Awesome!!!
Have fun!
r/
Mike
(Topic ID: 246329)
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Quoted from bowtech:Any pinheads in the Toledo area have a printer
My local library has a printer, try yours.
Lambertville, MI
Quoted from mikepmcs:That is Awesome!!!
Have fun!
r/
Mike
Thanks for everyone's help with this. This is why I love pinside!
Mississauga, ON
I went through the nozzle replacement and maintenance on my machine last night after that weird banding. It seems to have fixed it and my prints look great again. Thankfully Prusa's design on the MK2.5 and newer extruders made it a lot easier to access everything and do the adjustments.
I think sandro might have been right about it being related to the filament spooling. After putting things back together I realized that I had not tightened the extruder gear nearly enough, so it's possible the filament was slipping or something like that. Not quite sure how it was so consistent, so maybe it was something else but that's my best guess beyond the heatbreak not being secure in the heatsink and wiggling around.
PXL_20220916_132905493 (resized).jpgQuoted from mbwalker:I reached out to Bowtech about printing and it just so happens we are both going to CLE Pin this weekend. Already printed some for him!
Andy Bless Your Heart (resized).jpgQuoted from Medic:Hello I have a 3d printer but not very good at making things. Anyone have any recommendation on how I can hang this sting sword over my lotr? I don’t have much room above the machine so it would need to be at this angle. Thank you so much
[quoted image]
Unless you want to learn the craft of making 3d art, which I think would be learning Blender - then maybe start with an existing Sting like this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4682285
Then scale it up, print and paint. At least thats what I would try. Maybe can even print the blade in a metallic material.
Edit: oops misread that you just want to hang it 
Quoted from Medic:Hello I have a 3d printer but not very good at making things. Anyone have any recommendation on how I can hang this sting sword over my lotr? I don’t have much room above the machine so it would need to be at this angle. Thank you so much
Can you please clarify what you're trying to do and what specifically you need help with? What about the project are you thinking will need a 3D-printed part?
If it were me, and if I were literally just looking to hang the sword you have there, I would just get some drywall anchors (in the photo, it looks like the ceiling is drywall), eye-screws, and some kind of string or wire suitable to hanging it. Just loop the string or wire around the sword to hang it.
I could see 3D printing a part if you wanted to rest the sword on top of the backbox. I.e. a couple of custom rests that screw down into the top of the backbox and into which the sword would fit. But your question asks about hanging. Are you looking to fabricate some kind of bracket that can attach to the sword and provides some kind of way to attach a wire?
Quoted from pete_d:Can you please clarify what you're trying to do and what specifically you need help with? What about the project are you thinking will need a 3D-printed part?
If it were me, and if I were literally just looking to hang the sword you have there, I would just get some drywall anchors (in the photo, it looks like the ceiling is drywall), eye-screws, and some kind of string or wire suitable to hanging it. Just loop the string or wire around the sword to hang it.
I could see 3D printing a part if you wanted to rest the sword on top of the backbox. I.e. a couple of custom rests that screw down into the top of the backbox and into which the sword would fit. But your question asks about hanging. Are you looking to fabricate some kind of bracket that can attach to the sword and provides some kind of way to attach a wire?
sorry I should of used better choice of words. I meant more of a display stand for it. I found some of these files and I think it may work but I'm not sure how to make one of the stand pieces not as tall so it can cause the sword to be angled down. The second file may also work but again not sure how I can make the sword holder shorter. I have prusa slicer if that helps but I'm a noob in designing. It's probably a good idea to start learning though but not sure where to start for my project.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3605465
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5249072
Quoted from Medic:sorry I should of used better choice of words. I meant more of a display stand for it. I found some of these files and I think it may work but I'm not sure how to make one of the stand pieces not as tall so it can cause the sword to be angled down. The second file may also work but again not sure how I can make the sword holder shorter. I have prusa slicer if that helps but I'm a noob in designing. It's probably a good idea to start learning though but not sure where to start for my project.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3605465
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5249072
A slicer will prepare gcode for a printer, but the slicer tools generally have only very limited editing capabilities.
Unfortunately, at the other end, 3D modeling programs like Fusion 360, Solidworks, etc. generally don't handle editing imported .stl (mesh) data very well. They are mainly designed to work with the more abstract volumetric/shape data.
I have heard Blender does a better job with mesh-based data, but I have very little experience with it myself. Its target audience is more 3D-rendered or animation projects, not printing, and I find that it has a bunch of features I don't need and which get in the way, and the features I do need are harder to use than in a program like Fusion 360.
All that said, from what I've seen, the 3D modeling software that comes with Windows 10 (and I assume 11), while not very capable, is actually very good for this exact scenario. If you have Windows, or access to a machine with it, you might check it out. There are a couple of ways you might approach editing the shape, but I think the easiest would be to find the section of the shape you want to shorten, use the "Split" command to separate that section from the rest of the shape, then use the "Scale" operation to adjust its height.
With stands like you're looking at, you would create two splits at either end of the straight section, scale the middle piece according to your needs, then drag the pieces vertically so that they touch again, combining them back into a single vertical shape that has the height you want. Since you want/need the sword to rest at an angle, you'll need to shorten one side of the rest more than the other. Both examples just have one stand part, so you'd need to create a copy so you can edit it twice, once for each height you want.
The "Split" command is fairly easy to use. You select the part you want to split, then in the "Edit" menu you choose "Split". This will show a plane, which by default is parallel to the XY plane. You can select the plane and drag it up and down. The program also allows you to rotate the plane, which may or may not be needed for your purposes depending on the orientation the model is when you import it. Get the splitting plane where you want it, then click the "Split" button to finish the operation. Moving an object is as simple as "grabbing" it by clicking on it, then dragging the mouse to put it where you want. The program will show you arrows corresponding to each axis. If you want to move the object only in one axis, click that axis's arrow and drag that instead of the object and the object will move only along that axis. Objects that can be merged easily, will "snap" to each other when you drag one near the other.
If you were to want to adjust the example offered by mikepmcs in their post, in theory you should be able to just scale the whole support parts vertically without splitting. Do note however that in that design, that will also change the relative proportions of the scabbard cut-out, which may or may not work for the sword you've got. That stand includes a part that you can use without the scabbard being displayed, which would work better if you don't want to show the scabbard separately. They also have versions of the stand without the scrollwork on the vertical pieces, which you might prefer since scaling the piece might not look as good as the design shows it right now. You could preserve the scabbard cutout proportions by splitting the body above and below the cutout area, scaling the top and bottom parts while leaving the scabbard cutout alone, but then you would no longer have straight edges on the front and back from top to bottom; the scabbard area would have the original angle, but the pieces above and below would have steeper angles because of the scaling. Maybe that'd be a problem for you, or maybe it wouldn't. Depends on what you want it to look like.
Quoted from pete_d:A slicer will prepare gcode for a printer, but the slicer tools generally have only very limited editing capabilities.
Unfortunately, at the other end, 3D modeling programs like Fusion 360, Solidworks, etc. generally don't handle editing imported .stl (mesh) data very well. They are mainly designed to work with the more abstract volumetric/shape data.
I have heard Blender does a better job with mesh-based data, but I have very little experience with it myself. Its target audience is more 3D-rendered or animation projects, not printing, and I find that it has a bunch of features I don't need and which get in the way, and the features I do need are harder to use than in a program like Fusion 360.
All that said, from what I've seen, the 3D modeling software that comes with Windows 10 (and I assume 11), while not very capable, is actually very good for this exact scenario. If you have Windows, or access to a machine with it, you might check it out. There are a couple of ways you might approach editing the shape, but I think the easiest would be to find the section of the shape you want to shorten, use the "Split" command to separate that section from the rest of the shape, then use the "Scale" operation to adjust its height.
With stands like you're looking at, you would create two splits at either end of the straight section, scale the middle piece according to your needs, then drag the pieces vertically so that they touch again, combining them back into a single vertical shape that has the height you want. Since you want/need the sword to rest at an angle, you'll need to shorten one side of the rest more than the other. Both examples just have one stand part, so you'd need to create a copy so you can edit it twice, once for each height you want.
The "Split" command is fairly easy to use. You select the part you want to split, then in the "Edit" menu you choose "Split". This will show a plane, which by default is parallel to the XY plane. You can select the plane and drag it up and down. The program also allows you to rotate the plane, which may or may not be needed for your purposes depending on the orientation the model is when you import it. Get the splitting plane where you want it, then click the "Split" button to finish the operation. Moving an object is as simple as "grabbing" it by clicking on it, then dragging the mouse to put it where you want. The program will show you arrows corresponding to each axis. If you want to move the object only in one axis, click that axis's arrow and drag that instead of the object and the object will move only along that axis. Objects that can be merged easily, will "snap" to each other when you drag one near the other.
If you were to want to adjust the example offered by mikepmcs in their post, in theory you should be able to just scale the whole support parts vertically without splitting. Do note however that in that design, that will also change the relative proportions of the scabbard cut-out, which may or may not work for the sword you've got. That stand includes a part that you can use without the scabbard being displayed, which would work better if you don't want to show the scabbard separately. They also have versions of the stand without the scrollwork on the vertical pieces, which you might prefer since scaling the piece might not look as good as the design shows it right now. You could preserve the scabbard cutout proportions by splitting the body above and below the cutout area, scaling the top and bottom parts while leaving the scabbard cutout alone, but then you would no longer have straight edges on the front and back from top to bottom; the scabbard area would have the original angle, but the pieces above and below would have steeper angles because of the scaling. Maybe that'd be a problem for you, or maybe it wouldn't. Depends on what you want it to look like.
Great write-up!
Another option, because I'm not super smart (and also still use windows 7, haha), is Tinkercad. It is my go to program for easy manipulation of already designed stl files from thingiverse or anywhere else for that matter. Also, you can design almost anything in it as well. Literally designed a wonkavator with it. It took forever but it worked.
( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754818 ) and ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754263 )
I personally can't figure out any of those other design programs so I use tinkercad to design everything I've made.
Here's a screenshot of the file I linked you to from thingiverse. I imported every piece to tinkercad after unzipping the files. Once they are here we can magically turn them in to anything we want. Or we can easily resize them all to fit your application.
Ask questions, we're here to help.
Best to keep it as simple as possible. Here's a very simple solution that would also work for a quick tinkercad remix to your desired dimensions. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4909379
Best wishes,
r/
Mike
dagger1 (resized).jpg
dagger2 (resized).jpg
Quoted from mikepmcs:Great write-up!
Another option, because I'm not super smart, is Tinkercad. It is my go to program for easy manipulation of already designed stl files from thingiverse or anywhere else for that matter. Also, you can design almost anything in it as well. Literally designed a wonkavator with it. It took forever but it worked.
( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754818 ) and ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754263 )
I personally can't figure out any of those other design programs so I use tinkercard to design everything I've made.
Here's a screenshot of the file I linked you to from thingiverse. I imported every piece to tinkercad after unzipping the files. Once they are here we can magically turn them in to anything we want. Or we can easily resize them all to fit your application.
Ask questions, we're here to help.
Best wishes,
r/
Mike
[quoted image]
Excellent suggestion - Tinkercad is a good program for making simple changes like sizing, and best for beginners IMO
Budapest
Quoted from mikepmcs:Great write-up!
Another option, because I'm not super smart (and also still use windows 7, haha), is Tinkercad. It is my go to program for easy manipulation of already designed stl files from thingiverse or anywhere else for that matter. Also, you can design almost anything in it as well. Literally designed a wonkavator with it. It took forever but it worked.
( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754818 ) and ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754263 )
I personally can't figure out any of those other design programs so I use tinkercad to design everything I've made.
Here's a screenshot of the file I linked you to from thingiverse. I imported every piece to tinkercad after unzipping the files. Once they are here we can magically turn them in to anything we want. Or we can easily resize them all to fit your application.
Ask questions, we're here to help.
Best to keep it as simple as possible. Here's a very simple solution that would also work for a quick tinkercad remix to your desired dimensions. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4909379
Best wishes,
r/
Mike
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I agree. Tinkercad is very good for beginners - you don't need any experience with complex 3D design software. However you have to be very creative in case of complex shapes.
I created this crane for Judge Dredd in Tinkercad (in Windows 7 ):
292a22a8546f7437c9b119fef5dd8ef8e214a827 (2) (resized).jpgf0236b1f735021faf840cf6b2f3e8c7d2204c785 (1) (resized).pngA subtle, easy to DIY backpanel moon mod for EHOH:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1014620
resize to 30-35mm in diameter and reposition so only half sits above the +Z plane on your slicer. I used lightning infill @ 80%, but less might allow more light through. double-sided tape, attach and done.
It has and interesting 3D effect, especially if you have the trees in front of it.
2022-09-18 10.34.57 (resized).jpg2022-09-18 10.35.02 (resized).jpgQuoted from PersonX99:A subtle, easy to DIY backpanel moon mod for EHOH:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1014620
resize to 30-35mm in diameter and reposition so only half sits above the +Z plane on your slicer. I used lightning infill @ 80%, but less might allow more light through. double-sided tape, attach and done.
It has and interesting 3D effect, especially if you have the trees in front of it.[quoted image][quoted image]
Perfect pint-sized project for my day today
Quoted from mikepmcs:Great write-up!
Another option, because I'm not super smart (and also still use windows 7, haha), is Tinkercad....
Doh, yes! I can't believe I forgot to mention that one in my post. It's another tool I haven't used myself, but in lots of forums I see plenty of people that really like its simplicity and accessibility. It appears to fill an important segment of the market between the super-simple 3D Builder in Windows, and the more complex tools. Lots of comments about how hard it is to do really complex designs in it, but how it's perfect for editing existing designs or developing the more basic shapes that make up a lot of the "utility" applications for 3D printing.
Hey guys I'm searching for a 90s Williams playfield layout file preferably T2. Please let me know if you know a source.
Quoted from Tyler_Durden:Hey guys I'm searching for a 90s Williams playfield layout file preferably T2. Please let me know if you know a source.
how about this:
https://www.vpforums.org/index.php?app=downloads&showfile=2241
Melbourne
Quoted from Davi:I agree. Tinkercad is very good for beginners - you don't need any experience with complex 3D design software. However you have to be very creative in case of complex shapes.
I created this crane for Judge Dredd in Tinkercad (in Windows 7 ):[quoted image][quoted image]
Care to share the STL?
Cheers
København
Quoted from hoby1:Just finished my version of Godzillas Tesla power lines.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
hoby1 Do you mind sharing the STL file? I would like to see if I can get an equally nice result with my Snapmaker
Quoted from Shmilder:Care to share the STL?
Cheers
Sorry, no, it's an active project.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/judge-dredd-active-3d-crane-modification
This new Bambu x1 carbon printer is insane.
17 min benchy straight out of the box.
Machine went together and booted flawlessly.
Setup was not too bad and there are a bunch of little parts that came with it that I'll have to find a video on to see what they are for. Some are self explanatory. Almost none were needed to put the printer together.
The benchy is about as good as it gets with zero slicer tweaks.
Oh yeah at 1000 mph.
The bambu slicer will take me a little time I'm sure and it wouldn't link at first to the network when I downloaded it on my laptop. My windows media player needed to be turned on. The bambu troubleshooting lead me there. I wouldn't have had a clue.
It's a tank and very well built.
I was watching it from my phone in another room cause it even has a camera. Ridiculous.
I'm afraid my ender 3 pro is about to become scrap. haha.
20220927_163647 (resized).jpg20220927_163757 (resized).jpgQuoted from mikepmcs:This new Bambu x1 carbon printer is insane.
17 min benchy straight out of the box.
Machine went together and booted flawlessly.
Setup was not too bad and there are a bunch of little parts that came with it that I'll have to find a video on to see what they are for. Some are self explanatory. Almost none were needed to put the printer together.
The benchy is about as good as it gets with zero slicer tweaks.
Oh yeah at 1000 mph.
The bambu slicer will take me a little time I'm sure and it wouldn't link at first to the network when I downloaded it on my laptop. My windows media player needed to be turned on. The bambu troubleshooting lead me there. I wouldn't have had a clue.
It's a tank and very well built.
I was watching it from my phone in another room cause it even has a camera. Ridiculous.
I'm afraid my ender 3 pro is about to become scrap. haha.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice,
Would love to see results at low speed, with regards to quality (layering, etc).
Also, can you post a close up of benchy?
Cheers
Quoted from Ashram56:Nice,
Would love to see results at low speed, with regards to quality (layering, etc).
Also, can you post a close up of benchy?
Cheers
No need for low speed and that is one of the primary reasons I bought this. This combines speed and quality that no other printer can match as of yet without heavy modifications and slicer manipulation. This benchy came out better, straight from the file they have installed, then my ender could've ever printed.
.4 nozzle .2 layer height. Zero stringing or sag at warp speed. Crazy. Couldn't believe what I was watching.
I mean you could shrink the nozzle to .2 and layer height to .08 if you want to and I'm sure it can handle it just fine. Every day application, I'm more than satisfied with this.
Any artifact you see here is the actual layer on the overhangs. It's clean.
20220927_175331 (resized).jpg
Quoted from mikepmcs:This new Bambu x1 carbon printer is insane.
17 min benchy straight out of the box.
Machine went together and booted flawlessly.
Setup was not too bad and there are a bunch of little parts that came with it that I'll have to find a video on to see what they are for. Some are self explanatory. Almost none were needed to put the printer together.
The benchy is about as good as it gets with zero slicer tweaks.
Oh yeah at 1000 mph.
The bambu slicer will take me a little time I'm sure and it wouldn't link at first to the network when I downloaded it on my laptop. My windows media player needed to be turned on. The bambu troubleshooting lead me there. I wouldn't have had a clue.
It's a tank and very well built.
I was watching it from my phone in another room cause it even has a camera. Ridiculous.
I'm afraid my ender 3 pro is about to become scrap. haha.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I love mine too! I've had several printers over the years and the Bambu X1C is by far the best overall experience I've had. No real tweaking of any settings is really nice.
Quoted from mikepmcs:This new Bambu x1 carbon printer is insane.
17 min benchy straight out of the box.
Machine went together and booted flawlessly.
Setup was not too bad and there are a bunch of little parts that came with it that I'll have to find a video on to see what they are for. Some are self explanatory. Almost none were needed to put the printer together.
The benchy is about as good as it gets with zero slicer tweaks.
Oh yeah at 1000 mph.
The bambu slicer will take me a little time I'm sure and it wouldn't link at first to the network when I downloaded it on my laptop. My windows media player needed to be turned on. The bambu troubleshooting lead me there. I wouldn't have had a clue.
It's a tank and very well built.
I was watching it from my phone in another room cause it even has a camera. Ridiculous.
I'm afraid my ender 3 pro is about to become scrap. haha.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Were you a kickstarter?
Quoted from mikepmcs:This new Bambu x1 carbon printer is insane.
Yep, I am with ya, it is nothing less than amazing. Got mine on Friday (kickstarter backer around 4100 or so)
I am not going to miss fiddling with the adjustments and leveling on my ender 3 pro. Slice the parts, hit a button and its off to the races...excellent quality prints at ridiculous speed.
The same one part that took 50 minutes on my ender, I can print 5 at a time with the Bambu in an hour and a half.
This printer is going to be a game changer for the 3d printing world. Its going to force all the other manufacturers to step up their game for sure.
Quoted from gorgar007:Were you a kickstarter?
Yes. All of us were that own them here. The pre-orders are starting to be manufactured as all the initial ones have been shipped and on their way to the customers.
I only did this because this was more a marketing campaign over a kickstsrter campaign.
These are the DJI ( drone) bubbas that masterminded this thing. Geniuses.
Had zero reservations they would deliver.
I wouldn't normally ever back any kickstarter campaign but this was way different. They were already in production when this started.
Thanks to Kevin_LHeureux for posting about it about 3 months ago.
Mike
Quoted from mikepmcs:This new Bambu x1 carbon printer is insane.
17 min benchy straight out of the box.
Machine went together and booted flawlessly.
Setup was not too bad and there are a bunch of little parts that came with it that I'll have to find a video on to see what they are for. Some are self explanatory. Almost none were needed to put the printer together.
The benchy is about as good as it gets with zero slicer tweaks.
Oh yeah at 1000 mph.
The bambu slicer will take me a little time I'm sure and it wouldn't link at first to the network when I downloaded it on my laptop. My windows media player needed to be turned on. The bambu troubleshooting lead me there. I wouldn't have had a clue.
It's a tank and very well built.
I was watching it from my phone in another room cause it even has a camera. Ridiculous.
I'm afraid my ender 3 pro is about to become scrap. haha.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Wow I looked it up expecting it to be like $5k but it's really reasonable for such a high end machine. Tempting to get something like that and start a side business.
What is the build volume? I didn't see it on the site.
Quoted from Anony:Wow I looked it up expecting it to be like $5k but it's really reasonable for such a high end machine. Tempting to get something like that and start a side business.
What is the build volume? I didn't see it on the site.
256x256x256.
all3dp has a decent writeup here.
https://m.all3dp.com/1/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-review-3d-printer-specs/
Quoted from mikepmcs:256x256x256.
all3dp has a decent writeup here.
https://m.all3dp.com/1/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-review-3d-printer-specs/
That's really impressive and with multi colour print too it is an extremely attractive price. Only a fraction more than a prusa + multi color addon. I always wonder how easy it is to service these fully enclosed machines though.
Quoted from Anony:That's really impressive and with multi colour print too it is an extremely attractive price. Only a fraction more than a prusa + multi color addon. I always wonder how easy it is to service these fully enclosed machines though.
My prusa sucks compared to my qidi 3d enclosed printer. Qidi is 1000x more reliable.
Quoted from mikepmcs:No need for low speed and that is one of the primary reasons I bought this. This combines speed and quality that no other printer can match as of yet without heavy modifications and slicer manipulation. This benchy came out better, straight from the file they have installed, then my ender could've ever printed.
.4 nozzle .2 layer height. Zero stringing or sag at warp speed. Crazy. Couldn't believe what I was watching.
I mean you could shrink the nozzle to .2 and layer height to .08 if you want to and I'm sure it can handle it just fine. Every day application, I'm more than satisfied with this.
Any artifact you see here is the actual layer on the overhangs. It's clean.
[quoted image]
Glad to see you’ve received your Bambu and seeing how amazing it is. I was backer #22 I believe? Had mine since End of July and loving it. I print almost daily and am still blown away by it.
I looked up some of the reviews of the Bambu and it does look great. The only thing that makes me apprehensive is the use of proprietary nozzles. It's not likely to be an issue but when you're in a pinch and need a quick replacement it might end up biting you in the ass.
Definitely going to consider that as my next printer though, and hopefully it spurs some other companies into upping their game.
Am I being unreasonable....
I received my Saturn 2 two weeks ago, and literally yesterday my Elegoo Jupiter.... This one is massive...
Still have to test the high resolution resin to determine if the Saturn 2 is indeed better resolution.
Next, a Bambu when it's available in retail through a local reseller (I did not back the KS because the cost delta was minimal, and there was no indication of how warranty would be managed for KS units)
1 week later
Quoted from KornFreak28:Looking to get into the hobby. Any good quality printers you guys recommend for beginners? My buddy Medisinyl recommended a couple which look quite nice. Wondering what you guys have used and recommend? Thanks!
Plenty of discussion about printers in this thread already. You're not going to get any new/better information by asking the question again. Just read back. If you have specific questions, especially in the context of printing parts for pinball machines, which you know haven't been answered already, feel free to post those to advance the discussion.
Hi! I just got into this in august when I got my homebrew machine flipping for the first time. I LOVE my Prusa Mk3. Got a bunch of free filament with my order and it was a legit fun time putting it together.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Looking to get into the hobby. Any good quality printers you guys recommend for beginners? My buddy Medisinyl recommended a couple which look quite nice. Wondering what you guys have used and recommend? Thanks!
Been 3D printing and designing for about 5 tears now . I ONLY have cheap ENDER 3s with my newest being a Ender3 V2.
That being said Ill put my prints up against any here for quality and consistence
This just show that you dont have to spend $$$$ to enjoy the hobby and do great work.
Its about leaning how a printer works , the set up and the best slicer setting for how you have the printer hardware PERIOD.
Start with a printer like this , learn it, add auto leveling and fan mods in the future.. HAVE FUN !!!
Quoted from JToeps:Hi! I just got into this in august when I got my homebrew machine flipping for the first time. I LOVE my Prusa Mk3. Got a bunch of free filament with my order and it was a legit fun time putting it together.
Thanks for the info!
Quoted from pete_d:Plenty of discussion about printers in this thread already. You're not going to get any new/better information by asking the question again. Just read back. If you have specific questions, especially in the context of printing parts for pinball machines, which you know haven't been answered already, feel free to post those to advance the discussion.
Thanks!!!!!
Hasn’t the hobby and 3D printers advanced and made progress since this thread started 3 years ago?
Your “Read back” answer would apply if this was info that doesn’t change! Like, how to troubleshoot a dead flipper or something!
Quoted from hoby1:Been 3D printing and designing for about 5 tears now . I ONLY have cheap ENDER 3s with my newest being a Ender3 V2.
That being said Ill put my prints up against any here for quality and consistence
This just show that you dont have to spend $$$$ to enjoy the hobby and do great work.
Its about leaning how a printer works , the set up and the best slicer setting for how you have the printer hardware PERIOD.
Start with a printer like this , learn it, add auto leveling and fan mods in the future.. HAVE FUN !!!
https://store.creality.com/products/ender-3-v2-3d-printer?utm_source=googleads&gclid=CjwKCAjwqJSaBhBUEiwAg5W9p-Nzdqm2nxQOHA1IKj4TLRJxB90a4j3hGFQ4TwAZvvS8Y7q_nrSbShoCSX0QAvD_BwE
Any issues with the ENDER 3 V2?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Looking to get into the hobby. Any good quality printers you guys recommend for beginners? My buddy Medisinyl recommended a couple which look quite nice. Wondering what you guys have used and recommend? Thanks!
As hoby1 said, ender 3 is a great beginning printer (and do not start adding parts, get it to print correctly with stock parts). You need to understand how a printer works (and why it doesn't) first. It's also very cheap entry. For sure whatever you pick, stick with FDM. Resin printers are far messier (and dangerous to your health if you aren't careful). Also stick with PLA filament until you know what you're doing.
Think of a printer like a car. You can go out a buy a dodge challenger demon and have a really fast car out of the box. Or you can buy a cheaper slower car and figure out how to squeeze out more horsepower. Also imagine there are no service centers, when your car breaks you gotta find a local buddy for help or figure out how to fix it yourself through forums.
Based on what I've seen that the bambu does to calibrate itself, it would also be a great printer if all you care about is sending prints and not tinkering.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Any issues with the ENDER 3 V2?
The v2 is just adding more features than the stock ender 3 (meanwell power supply instead of a knockoff chinese one, color screen, better hotend, knobs to re-tension belt tightness, glass bed). I think you would learn just as much as how a printer works even with all that added (they aren't shortcuts, just better features).
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