Yes. This is my Godzilla monster egg as an example. I’m sure I’m not the first to do it.

7D12EF57-9D57-4F7E-BBBC-3CF3B7B01200 (resized).jpeg

Has anyone used transparent resin to print translucent targets, can it withstand the abuse?

I have a feeling the answer will be a resounding NO....

Someone has to be the 1st to try

If you print them in the orientation that puts the layer lines up and down rather than horizontal I think it could probably handle it.

I have printed the target I reverse engineered for system 9 games out of PLA (printed on it's side) for 3 friends and I haven't heard any of them fail yet
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4613394

I have printed some.
They have lasted longer than expected. Nevertheless, they harden more and more and break. Also the ligth emission isn't that great. Would think milky would color better but i dont know.

Does anyone have a recommendation for an online course in fusion 360? I don't mind if I have to pay but want something quality and up to date. I used to watch this guy's stuff but they are outdated now and I'd like to upgrade my skillset. There's one that looks great on skillshare but skillshare seems pretty shady and I don't think I want to sign up for their site.

I started with a Udemy course called Designing for 3D Printing with Fusion 360. I only got through about 1/3 of the course which I think was a good sign - it got me enough skills to just start making stuff myself. One challenge is Fusion 360 seems to get updated semi regularly and something major might change in the user interface - the teacher in this Udemy course at least tries to explain all of this before the course starts.

One thing to note (especially when it comes to solid modeling software), often menu features change and evolve.. typically basics like sketching on planes, drawing, extruding, revolving remain the same.. However, if you're watching an old tutorial there could be a much quicker and simpler way of doing something and you'll be learning a bad habit. The same holds true the opposite direction, if you're watching a tutorial for the latest software and you're running an old version, they could be showing you a feature that doesn't yet exist.

When I was switching from pro-engineer to solidworks in 2005, I bought a solidworks bible book specific to that version. Unfortunately even though fusion 360 books exist, they don't seem to be version specific so I can't necessarily recommend getting a book (unless you're going to learn on that specific version) and then once you're comfortable you can explore a new version.

Thanks, I like that udemy sells you the course rather than a subscription like skillshare does. Skillshare has some deceptive language around their free trial/monthly fee that can catch you if you don't read the fine print.

Yeah I've noticed fusion seems to change their interface a lot pretty often. Makes following these tutorials a pain sometimes.

wow, is this the truth... it seems like every other "fusion 360 for absolute beginners" video I watch has a spot where I don't have the same options. Sometimes you can figure them out but other times......

Every time this happens I google the name of the function and there's usually an up to date guide on how to find it. Some of the changes over the last year or so were pretty significant though and it's not always easy.

I got like 10 tutorials into this series and started running with it

The guy is a character, he can seem repetitive but he's very sharp and trying to drill into you very important fundamentals (fully contraining your sketches)
This was the first CAD program I taught myself and the learning curve was pretty easy. Watch some tutorials, do it with him, then go off and start making your own stuff, exploring the tools etc. I've learned to stay organized and use parameters for values, labeling my sketches, making new components, etc.

Constraining sketches could be the most important thing you ever do. In the engineering world, if a senior engineer goes through your model tree and finds things unconstrained that's a big no no. Models are built by feature trees with parent / child relationships. If your features high up aren't constrained, the program can decide to skew a sketch and then suddenly your whole model fails. I would also say don't try doing too many features in the same sketch, it makes it far more difficult to edit. Break them up into separate features. Also as you're sketching, make everything straight lines with sharp corners. Save the drafts and fillets for later to make it easier to edit later (one click to change the value).

I don't typically label my sketches, that's just a LOT of extra work. I will however sometimes label my features, especially if I'm doing a multibody part. When I'm starting the new part I'll label that so as I'm scrolling through the tree I can quickly jump to it.

I always find that at least one parameter remains unconstrained and if I end up needing to change it everything gets thrown off. I'll need some more practice to figure out why that happens, something about the way I sketch things makes it so the program won't let me constrain that last dimension for some reason.

Good advice on leaving the filets etc until later though. Going back through a huge chain of actions and trying to pick out the ones you need to edit can be such a pain.

Added new roof. 3D Crypt complete. I used the following models from thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5411670
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4676669

286387333_10223855711553125_8051078038758185286_n (resized).jpg

Looks great! I just did this myself. The light leak from the top of the crypt was driving me crazy.

Wow those look great, they also look like a torture test for an FDM printer! They came out very clean though, what printer do you use?

If your ender 3 needs a ball bearing spool holder look no further: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5493788

Found one on youtube but it was paywalled, so I designed this one.

https://www.printables.com/model/272583-pinball-leg-leveler-caster

I took 10 minutes to design a better caster for my leg levelers. Other casters will fall off when I jack up the machine to pull it out of my lineup. This has a small 1mm lip in the inside that keeps the caster on. I used TPU on my Prusa mini with a Bondtech extruder upgrade (mainly to print TPU/FLEX).

My son went to a 3d printing camp through ID Tech (great company and great camp btw). It included a take home 3d printer, Monoprice Cadet. It looks hardly high end but seems to do a fine job on small objects. So we are just getting into this. Here’s our first “good” result for pinball. A mine cart for my CCr se+ for when it eventually (hopefully) arrives. The rocks are pyrite I will somehow glue in.

06F946CB-2052-4F5D-A8A2-C3347010759F (resized).jpeg

That looks great, is it hand printed?

Makes me wish I had kept up with warhammer painting from when I was a kid.

It’s hand painted, yes. I ordered a set of acrylic paints and small brushes. Did a little reading about how to paint printed models. Believe me, I had no great skill. Using a primer is important. And then it takes several coats of paint. Have a fan nearby to help each coat dry in a couple minutes. I made a lot of mistakes but paint can be removed with rubbing alcohol or just painted over.

I got into finishing prints when covid hit but it was all spray paint type stuff, nothing with much detail.

IMG_20200524_132052 (resized).jpg

Breaking in my Ender3 S1 Pro and continuing to practice with the airbrush.

2022-09-10 17.51.44 (resized).jpg

Nice. I wanted one of these arches on my Maiden and tried a textured spraypaint that's supposed to look like rock but it didn't turn out well.

I've used that kind of spray on 3d prints before and it worked well but the one I bought that was supposed to look like sand was pretty bad.

That textured stone paint works really well on big items, but the little flecks are a bit too big for detailed pieces like those -

You can try mixing some actual playsand with sand-colored paint, or tint some Drylok (seriously!). Works really nicely

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5509883

Leg Hole Drill guide. Will test it and change the status to finished if the holes are correct placed.

pasted_image (resized).png

Does anyone know if there's a Gottlieb EM coin entry plates stl? The white piece that you fix the Plays/Quarter decal?

I don't need one, but thought it may be useful to some.

I just started getting a crazy amount of ringing on both axes, is this likely to be loose belts?

I think it's time to do a bit of a teardown on my printer and replace the nozzle and belts as well as clean it up. I haven't done any maintenance on it in a long time.

PXL_20220912_201911702 (resized).jpg

Looks more like a wobbly or bent z-rod would cause that.

Ok I'll have to take a closer look then. The belts felt fairly tight when I plucked them so I was surprised to see it this bad.

Z-axis issues wouldn't cause that. It's not like the head is moving up and down as it extrudes. It will only move up when it's done extruding an area if you have your slicer set that way in which case you would only see it where it starts/stops. Ringing usually isn't consistent like that either, it's usually warped looking walls. That looks more like it's over-extruding.

Thanks for the insight. I haven't changed the nozzle in 2 years or more. I have some spares so I'm going to change the nozzle and check that everything is tight and clean. I hate maintenance on the prusa printers since they can be a bit of a pain to disassemble so I've been putting it off forever.

When airbrushing, you can pull the brush away from the surface to achieve a sandy look when layering colors. I did a little of that on mine though the pics don't really show it. It's still flat, but the layered colors have the illusion of depth.

Saw this in another thread - kind of awesome if it's true.

pasted_image (resized).png

I’ve had good luck with “washes” to help weather/color 3D prints. Easy to use: brush on or use a rag/paper towel, then rub off. Here’s the result on that same part on my IM.

F8F7A0FF-D152-4BA6-B4F3-837EBA70122C (resized).jpeg

Works great

20220913_192454.jpg

20220913_192544.jpg

20220913_194700.jpg

Believe it or not, I've had this happen because of the filament "pulling up" on the extruder head. Make sure that your filament feed is pretty low friction. I confirmed that was my problem by unspooling a few meters and printing a vertical wall. No waviness. The same print from the spool showed periodic waves.

I wonder if that's what's going on with mine. I am getting those waves too, and I'm not printing the same part over and over again so it's hard to tell if it's related to the print somehow. I've got mine locked down pretty well on a heavy table, with a concrete brick stabilizing it, but there's them waves

A quick check might be to pull up in the filament and check of the extruder moves. Mine had a very small amount of rotation around the upper x-axis rod. I then confirmed it with a print.

I guess this is a sign that it's been too long since I did any maintenance on my printer...

Also I started to replace the nozzle and remembered that the heatbreak has always been loose inside the upper part of the hotend... I guess I'm going to have to go through the pain of disassembling the hot end and getting it tightened. I really love the Prusa printers but the hot end is such a pain to service. Way too many shrouds/parts blocking everything.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/e7kdYL7duW4jJEoU9

PXL_20220914_214057102 (resized).jpg

Any pinheads in the Toledo area have a printer and can help me out? I am willing to pay for the service. I have been given the files to make the channels for the animal heads on R&B but the person I had lined up to print it no longer has the printer.

Northeastern Indiana (by Fort Wayne)...

How big of an object is this?

its the small guides for the head pictures that they slide up and down on

If you cannot find someone within a reasonable distance or willing to ship, there are services that will print and send to you. They will have multiple material options as well. This may be of interest since you mentioned guides.
Shapeways.com is a popular one.
craftcloud3d.com
sculpteo.com/en/

A bunch of options here: https://all3dp.com/1/best-online-3d-printing-service-3d-print-services/

r/
Mike

I reached out to Bowtech about printing and it just so happens we are both going to CLE Pin this weekend. Already printed some for him!