(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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There are 6,472 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 130.
#2401 1 year ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Looking good indeed. May I know the model you used? A friend downloaded one from thingiverse, but it did not fit his Mandalorian Pro
Cheers

Those are likely the same ones that are on thingiverse. I made of bunch of them for my and friends games as well. They do fit though they need to be sanded out a small amount in the center as they are a bit snug initially.

#2402 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

Those are likely the same ones that are on thingiverse. I made of bunch of them for my and friends games as well. They do fit though they need to be sanded out a small amount in the center as they are a bit snug initially.

That’s what I found. Likely the modeler set too tight a tolerance. I had to bore them out a little but now they have a nice snug interference fit so no fasteners needed.

#2403 1 year ago

Usually I just adjust the scale and print it at 100.5% or 101% if parts are too tight.

Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

Those are likely the same ones that are on thingiverse. I made of bunch of them for my and friends games as well. They do fit though they need to be sanded out a small amount in the center as they are a bit snug initially.

#2404 1 year ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Usually I just adjust the scale and print it at 100.5% or 101% if parts are too tight.

That's usually reasonable but then you're chasing a perfect fit and if they're too loose then they are trash. Since they are very close already, a quick hit with 120 grit and they fit snugly without worry of falling off when you lift the playfield.

#2405 1 year ago

My new Bambu Lab X1 Carbon has arrived and is AMAZING! Prints are lighting fast even in "sport" mode (~200mm/s) and the finish almost feels like its injection molded in many cases. I don't think my Vyper will see much use going forward.

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#2406 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

My new Bambu Lab X1 Carbon has arrived and is AMAZING! Prints are lighting fast even in "sport" mode (~200mm/s) and the finish almost feels like its injection molded in many cases. I don't think my Vyper will see much use going forward.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

yeah I was tempted but there was not much talk about software and use with a Mac so held off.

Congrats

#2407 1 year ago

Good looking Benchy! Congrats!

Might want to lower your extruder temp 10 degrees or so. You're getting a bit of sagging on the bridges. Can usually fix that with head cooling or extruder temp reduction.

Screen Shot 2022-08-02 at 2.54.11 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2022-08-02 at 2.54.11 PM (resized).jpg
#2408 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

yeah I was tempted but there was not much talk about software and use with a Mac so held off.
Congrats

Im running the software on a Mac. Zero issues. In fact it hasn't crashed once since I installed it unlike Cura.

#2409 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:My new Bambu Lab X1 Carbon has arrived and is AMAZING! Prints are lighting fast even in "sport" mode (~200mm/s) and the finish almost feels like its injection molded in many cases. I don't think my Vyper will see much use going forward.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome! I'm waiting on mine still. In August at some point, hopefully.
I bought the same setup.
r/
Mike

#2410 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

My new Bambu Lab X1 Carbon has arrived and is AMAZING! Prints are lighting fast even in "sport" mode (~200mm/s) and the finish almost feels like its injection molded in many cases. I don't think my Vyper will see much use going forward.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice to see the results. I must say I cancelled my pledge because the price delta if you were not a super early bird was not significant (250 dollars), and there was a lot of unknown with regards to warranty for KS units and how to deal with shipment back to factory from Europe in case of defect. I much prefer to buy through a local reseller when they have one (which hopefully they will)

#2411 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

My new Bambu Lab X1 Carbon has arrived and is AMAZING! Prints are lighting fast even in "sport" mode (~200mm/s) and the finish almost feels like its injection molded in many cases. I don't think my Vyper will see much use going forward.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How does the filament changing work on that one? I was trying to find details, but could not find much except for RFID on the reel which kind of seems frustrating?

#2412 1 year ago
Quoted from koji:

How does the filament changing work on that one? I was trying to find details, but could not find much except for RFID on the reel which kind of seems frustrating?

I have the AMS which is an automatic filament system. You can choose the primary filament feed for a single type/color/support in the slicer or on the unit as well as by 3d model color location in the slicer if applicable. It’s aimed to make things easier espe for mult-material prints. The unit comes with 4 Bambu spools which are reloadable or you can use most any 3rd party spool. RFID is a bonus.

#2413 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

I have the AMS which is an automatic filament system. You can choose the primary filament feed for a single type/color/support in the slicer or on the unit as well as by 3d model color location in the slicer if applicable. It’s aimed to make things easier espe for mult-material prints. The unit comes with 4 Bambu spools which are reloadable or you can use most any 3rd party spool. RFID is a bonus.

But it's still a single extruder system so when you say automatic, I was wondering how it manages to load in the next filament, this was not clear from what I saw...

#2414 1 year ago
Quoted from koji:

But it's still a single extruder system so when you say automatic, I was wondering how it manages to load in the next filament, this was not clear from what I saw...

I see. The ams feeds, retracts and loads new material from one of 4 positions via the primary ptfe feed tube into the head as needed. Hope that makes sense. More info here https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/home

#2415 1 year ago

Kevin,
How are you managing the cool side build plate surface adhesion? Are you putting sprays and glues and such to get prints to stick? That bridge you printed above looks like the build surface is clean. I'm a little worried about this because I've never put anything on my ender build plate. Literally just heated up the bed and wiped with water on a cloth to clean it prior to every print.
In the videos it says not to heat the build plate so I'm wondering how you're getting god first layers.
Thanks
r/
Mike

#2416 1 year ago

Bed is heated. I use hairspray though some have said there’s not a need for it with PLA. I’d rather not chance it.

#2417 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

I see. The ams feeds, retracts and loads new material from one of 4 positions via the primary ptfe feed tube into the head as needed. Hope that makes sense. More info here https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/home

Cool thanks. .. that's pretty amazing.. would like to see it in action.

I saw it mention about filament waste, this seems like a good idea to help avoid issues with retracting filament when swapping etc... but that would be my biggest concern, just how much of a pain to clean and frequency of any major clogs over time when swapping filament types and so forth.. bound to happen.

10
#2418 1 year ago

I am very grateful that FLASHBALL was kind enough to give me permission to post these STL files on Thingiverse to help the community out. I did not create these files but have consent to post them for free for the pinball community.

If you are missing the Death Star target back plate (#545-5351-00) for your Data East Star Wars then you're finally in luck!

Here are the target back plate guides for the Deathstar - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5448288
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#2419 1 year ago

Hi All,

Great thread.

I'm new to 3D printing and have a question. Maybe the group can help.

I'm trying to print the Chicago Coin score reel arm file. The file seems to print just fine, but the arm does not fit properly. There is a notch on the underside of the arm that is supposed to mate to a key on the score reel gear. It does not. The author hasn't been on inside since 2020.

Any suggestions on how to modify the file? I don't know if the notch is too small or not deep enough. I'll try to get a better look tomorrow morning.

Thanks

IMG_7556 (resized).jpgIMG_7556 (resized).jpg
#2420 1 year ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi All,
Great thread.
I'm new to 3D printing and have a question. Maybe the group can help.
I'm trying to print the Chicago Coin score reel arm file. The file seems to print just fine, but the arm does not fit properly. There is a notch on the underside of the arm that is supposed to mate to a key on the score reel gear. It does not. The author hasn't been on inside since 2020.
Any suggestions on how to modify the file? I don't know if the notch is too small or not deep enough. I'll try to get a better look tomorrow morning.
Thanks[quoted image]

It doesn’t look like your circles are perfectly round, assuming that’s supposed to be a perfect circle. Make sure the belts on your x and y axis are tight. If not, circles can be deformed.

#2421 1 year ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi All,
Great thread.
I'm new to 3D printing and have a question. Maybe the group can help.
I'm trying to print the Chicago Coin score reel arm file. The file seems to print just fine, but the arm does not fit properly. There is a notch on the underside of the arm that is supposed to mate to a key on the score reel gear. It does not. The author hasn't been on inside since 2020.
Any suggestions on how to modify the file? I don't know if the notch is too small or not deep enough. I'll try to get a better look tomorrow morning.
Thanks[quoted image]

Assuming the location or shape is the problem and it's not a printing error like Norkoro was discussing, just import the file into TinkerCad and mod it.

#2422 1 year ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

The file seems to print just fine, but the arm does not fit properly. There is a notch on the underside of the arm that is supposed to mate to a key on the score reel gear. It does not. The author hasn't been on inside since 2020.

Any suggestions on how to modify the file? I don't know if the notch is too small or not deep enough. I'll try to get a better look tomorrow morning.

I'm guessing the file is fine, whoever created it probably matched the original. Guessing the notch is supposed to be a half circle? Check your slicer settings, if it's printing outside first (then infill), and infill is high often it can push the outer wall while it's filling. Try printing inside first, then outer perimeter (the outer perimeter layer won't have anything to push it over because the inside should be cool at that point). I typically one print a single layer on the outside just because I'm often printing parts that have thin walls, and multiple outer layers means the infill gets compromised.

#2423 1 year ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

The author hasn't been on inside since 2020.
Any suggestions on how to modify the file? I don't know if the notch is too small or not deep enough. I'll try to get a better look tomorrow morning.

It looks like you are over-extruding filament. This can be caused by a few things:

1. Check your e-steps setting (many YouTube videos on this). You might need to alter this setting.
2. Check the diameter of your filament, I’ve had filament run as much as 8-9% over-sized, but this tends to vary throughout the roll. Best bet here is to use high quality filament which might vary as little as 0.3% through a roll, although you can adjust for this in most slicers.
3. Your slicer settings might be set to over extrude filament. That seems unlikely here since it looks to me like you’re over extruding inner and outer perimeters as well as top/bottom fill, and overlap. Usually only one or two of these would be a problem if it was a slicer setting.

#2424 1 year ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi All,
Great thread.
I'm new to 3D printing and have a question. Maybe the group can help.
I'm trying to print the Chicago Coin score reel arm file. The file seems to print just fine, but the arm does not fit properly. There is a notch on the underside of the arm that is supposed to mate to a key on the score reel gear. It does not. The author hasn't been on inside since 2020.
Any suggestions on how to modify the file? I don't know if the notch is too small or not deep enough. I'll try to get a better look tomorrow morning.
Thanks[quoted image]

Is this the original file?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1316469

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

And this is the only area you're having an issue at?
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#2425 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Is this the original file?

yes, and that is the only area. I'll take a closer look at the original part. I believe the notch should be squared.

#2426 1 year ago

Thanks all.

These were my 1st prints, I don't have a clue!!!! Learning curve time.

#2427 1 year ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Check your slicer settings

What software do you recommend? (mac preferred)

#2428 1 year ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

What software do you recommend? (mac preferred)

I use simplify3d (which is $150), but I've also used it for 5 years so it's been worth it. It hasn't been updated in over a year, but I keep going back to it because it just works. A lot of people like Cura, but prusa's slicer (which is a version of slic3r) is also really good. If you really like to tweak things, I recommend going with the open source version of slic3r:
https://slic3r.org

#2429 1 year ago
Quoted from sandro:

1. Check your e-steps setting (many YouTube videos on this). You might need to alter this setting.

This "could" be it, best way to do a quick check without messing with settings is printing a cube of an exact size (say 20mm), then measuring it with a calipers. If it's over-extruding it will be larger. Every printer is different for changing e-steps, but it's good to do this at least once.

Here's an example of how it's done:

#2430 1 year ago

How do I buy a bambu printer?
Looks sold out.

#2431 1 year ago

Thanks all.

I'll be away for a few days, but will work on it next week and report back.

#2432 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

How do I buy a bambu printer?
Looks sold out.

You'll probably have to wait a bit while they build and ship the ones for all the backers on their Kickstart marketing campaign. I'm still waiting for mine so I know they haven't all been sent out yet.
You can go to the bambu labs web site and sign up for email updates for their online store, if it's something you would like an alert on.
I found this post on their site that addresses your question in detail.
https://blog.bambulab.com/pre-order-launch-date-released/

r/
Mike

#2433 1 year ago
Quoted from sandro:

It looks like you are over-extruding filament. This can be caused by a few things:
1. Check your e-steps setting (many YouTube videos on this). You might need to alter this setting.

I made some adjustments, it was actually under extruding by about 8%.

I haven't had the chance to create another print. I'm wondering if a smaller nozzle would help as well.

#2434 1 year ago

Smaller nozzle is almost never the answer (unless you are printing super detailed figurines). I use .6 99.99% of the time, even for detailed things. If a .4 isnt working, then you probably have calibration issues.

#2435 1 year ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

Smaller nozzle is almost never the answer (unless you are printing super detailed figurines). I use .6 99.99% of the time, even for detailed things. If a .4 isnt working, then you probably have calibration issues.

Gotcha

#2436 1 year ago

So what extruder temperature are you using (and material)?

So what part of the area that has an issue is the problem? The arc, the square, all of the above just a smidge too small? If so, how much?

I can always mod the STL for you real quick if you just need a tad more clearance. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes.

#2437 1 year ago

Introducing the PinClip. With this simple print you will now be able to add mods to your game anywhere there is a screw head. Just unscrew slightly and slide the bracket in. Screw it back in using the hole and slide the clip over top. Glue whatever you like to the clip before or after sliding it on. The possibilities are endless. Add more toys and figures to Toy Story, add more cars to Hot Wheels, or print up anything you want from on your 3D printer and apply it to enhance your game. I will be adding some mods to go along with this device in coming months for specific games.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/the-pinclip-viggin900

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#2438 1 year ago
Quoted from Crile1:

My son taught me to use his 3D printer and I’ve been having a great time modding my Mandalorian machine. The beautiful paint job on Kuiil was done by my daughter. So far gravity charges for flashers, speaker panels, troop transport, and Kuiil are done. More to come…
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice!
Do you recall what you scaled Kuiil to for printing? (Or can you share the length, perhaps?)

#2439 1 year ago
Quoted from Viggin900:

Introducing the PinClip. With this simple print you will now be able to add mods to your game anywhere there is a screw head. Just unscrew slightly and slide the bracket in. Screw it back in using the hole and slide the clip over top. Glue whatever you like to the clip before or after sliding it on. The possibilities are endless. Add more toys and figures to Toy Story, add more cars to Hot Wheels, or print up anything you want from on your 3D printer and apply it to enhance your game. I will be adding some mods to go along with this device in coming months for specific games.

Nice, did you post the STLs somewhere?

#2440 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

So what extruder temperature are you using (and material)?
So what part of the area that has an issue is the problem? The arc, the square, all of the above just a smidge too small? If so, how much?
I can always mod the STL for you real quick if you just need a tad more clearance. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes.

Thanks. 200, but I'm going to up it to 215. PLA.

I'm not sure exactly where the problem is. I'm away from home and will know more in a few days.

#2441 1 year ago
Quoted from koji:

Nice, did you post the STLs somewhere?

Just added the link to the above post.

#2442 1 year ago

Just realized I never posted here this mod I designed a few months ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-disc-mod-open-source

Specifically 3D model for the ledring holder below the Tron disc is here (along with Arduino code):
https://github.com/Ashram56/Tron-Pinball-Disc-Mod

Strongly recommend to use Pinduino to drive the ledring

#2443 1 year ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Just realized I never posted here this mod I designed a few months ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-disc-mod-open-source
Specifically 3D model for the ledring holder below the Tron disc is here (along with Arduino code):
https://github.com/Ashram56/Tron-Pinball-Disc-Mod
Strongly recommend to use Pinduino to drive the ledring

This is awesome!!
Looks really great!
Did you do the arduino component too?

#2444 1 year ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

yes, and that is the only area. I'll take a closer look at the original part. I believe the notch should be squared.

Sorry, I missed your 'notch should be square' comment earlier. It definitely has an arc to it, not square. See the Cura slicer screen shot below.

Granted, the original designer of the STL might have made an error, or maybe the part changed over the years, but I think it's printing as intended.

It's not uncommon for 3D printed parts to not exactly fit as intended, people often don't leave any wiggle room for tolerance or slop.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#2445 1 year ago

Has anyone modeled the r2d2 for data east Star Wars? One of my arms is missing so wanted to check here.

Didn’t see anything on thingiverse and I asked the person who made 3d printed r2d2 kits and they didn’t seem interested in selling or sharing

#2446 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

This is awesome!!
Looks really great!
Did you do the arduino component too?

Yes the ino file is the arduino code

I also have a PCB design which I prototyped on a breadboard, works fine for that purpose, but a cleaner design might be useful (and smaller....). My prototype uses a Wemos, while the PCB design I did is for the seedstudio xiao

#2447 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Sorry, I missed your 'notch should be square' comment earlier. It definitely has an arc to it, not square. See the Cura slicer screen shot below.
Granted, the original designer of the STL might have made an error, or maybe the part changed over the years, but I think it's printing as intended.
It's not uncommon for 3D printed parts to not exactly fit as intended, people often don't leave any wiggle room for tolerance or slop.

Thanks,

I'm not certain about the notch, I'm away from home and need to check the original part. I know that the tolerances are very tight on this part. I've made some adjustments to my settings and will try again when I get back home. I also have the Sketchup file, so can alter the stl if needed.

#2448 1 year ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Thanks,
I'm not certain about the notch, I'm away from home and need to check the original part. I know that the tolerances are very tight on this part. I've made some adjustments to my settings and will try again when I get back home. I also have the Sketchup file, so can alter the stl if needed.

Consider just printing 2-3 layers of just the area in question. (PrusaSlicer allows easy cutting of a model in-program). These print quickly, and can help you diagnose the issue with the print. I often segment models into test pieces for testing fit/tolerances. These tend to print faster and I waste less filament. If the 2-3 layers look good, you can then just print a small 1"x1" piece of the armature to see if it fits on the actuator. If you do need to iterate on the design/settings the test pieces can really accelerate the process.

#2449 1 year ago
Quoted from sandro:

Consider just printing 2-3 layers of just the area in question. (PrusaSlicer allows easy cutting of a model in-program). These print quickly, and can help you diagnose the issue with the print. I often segment models into test pieces for testing fit/tolerances. These tend to print faster and I waste less filament. If the 2-3 layers look good, you can then just print a small 1"x1" piece of the armature to see if it fits on the actuator. If you do need to iterate on the design/settings the test pieces can really accelerate the process.

great suggestions.

thank you

#2450 1 year ago

Total noob questions here again:

I'm sure most of the different materials used for these prints have different strength ratings, correct? Are they rated in PSI or something else? I've got a friend who's going to print out a prototype part for me so I can check measurements and for fitment, but it would be nice to know how much weight per print thickness some of these materials can support. Is there a place to find that info or do most of you guys just know the general rule of thumb with these materials?

It'd be nice, while checking measurements and fitment, to be able to test function as well, too. In a way, I don't really care if it breaks, but it'd be nice to not put other assemblies in jeopardy while doing so.

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