Quoted from swinks:made a servo testing rig - 3d printers are very handy.
I sense a mod in design 
Curious though, why not simply drive the servo through a simple arduino GPIO ?
(Topic ID: 246329)
Linked Games
High Speed
Williams, 1986
Topic Gallery
Quoted from Ashram56:I sense a mod in design
Curious though, why not simply drive the servo through a simple arduino GPIO ?
I am not skilled in arduino, I was just curious how long 4 x AA batteries would last - 7200 actions with just 0.5v loss in the batteries - am happy.
Yes a product in the works.
Talking about Arduino, who has some experience with delays on Arduino. Try to code a topper where I use a light from the playfield. When te light is solid it should activate my servo (i have that code ready). But once it is like in attract mode the ligth just goes on and off and my servo should not react to this. So it only should react after a second when the light is solid lit. Who can help me on that part of code?
Quoted from PeterG:Talking about Arduino, who has some experience with delays on Arduino. Try to code a topper where I use a light from the playfield. When te light is solid it should activate my servo (i have that code ready). But once it is like in attract mode the ligth just goes on and off and my servo should not react to this. So it only should react after a second when the light is solid lit. Who can help me on that part of code?
Are you catching the ‘attract mode’ signal and disabling the servo in attract mode or just basing your logic on the length of time your light is solid??
Quoted from Lounge:Are you catching the ‘attract mode’ signal and disabling the servo in attract mode or just basing your logic on the length of time your light is solid??
I catch the led light of the mode. Which in attract modes just flickers, while in game it is off untill the mode is played. Then it is lit solid. I only want it to activate if it is lit solid. Also looked at another light that would not be on in attract mode but there is none, all lights are on. So cannot do an if this and this then that statement.
So I would like it not to trigger it while flickering and only trigger it while lit solid for e.g. 1 or 2 seconds delay but that would be the variable to tweak for me.
Quoted from PeterG:I catch the led light of the mode. Which in attract modes just flickers, while in game it is off untill the mode is played. Then it is lit solid. I only want it to activate if it is lit solid. Also looked at another light that would not be on in attract mode but there is none, all lights are on. So cannot do an if this and this then that statement.
So I would like it not to trigger it while flickering and only trigger it while lit solid for e.g. 1 or 2 seconds delay but that would be the variable to tweak for me.
You could tie a simple potentiometer input into the arduino to allow you to "dial" in your delay value until you get the desired behavior.
Monroe, NY
My recently purchased Baywatch was missing a flasher & mount on the main wire ramp, so I replicated the design.
20220607_200234.jpg20220609_203201.jpg20220609_203210.jpg
Here is the free STL - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5427184
The machine was also missing the left railing on the lifeguard tower hut, so I designed that as well and am offering that for free here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5427178
Quoted from turbo2nr:5 axis CNC Brazilian wood, also a 3d printed version, and another I painted
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Very cool. What CNC are you using? I occasionally think about getting the inexpensive CNC-3018, but haven't bit the bullet yet (too many other hobbies).
Quoted from PeterG:Talking about Arduino, who has some experience with delays on Arduino. Try to code a topper where I use a light from the playfield. When te light is solid it should activate my servo (i have that code ready). But once it is like in attract mode the ligth just goes on and off and my servo should not react to this. So it only should react after a second when the light is solid lit. Who can help me on that part of code?
I'm sure there is a software solution for this but I just don't know it off the top of my head. You could also use an alternate method - tapping into the solenoid power to only enable your servo when solenoid power is active. You would use an additional input on the arduino to detect when solenoid power is enabled, and since the solenoids are not powered in attract mode your servo will not run in attract. You could use an alligator clip to the metal tab of Q1 (trough upkicker) or Q15/Q16 (flipper power) and then reduce the voltage before going into the Arduino input for attract mode detection.
Quoted from mbwalker:Very cool. What CNC are you using? I occasionally think about getting the inexpensive CNC-3018, but haven't bit the bullet yet (too many other hobbies).
I have 18 cnc mills for my business. None were cheap. The one in picture is a haas OM2a or aka office mill with added 4th/5th axis rotary.
I also have a fleet of industrial 3d Systems printers
Quoted from turbo2nr:I have 18 cnc mills for my business. None were cheap. The one in picture is a haas OM2a or aka office mill with added 4th/5th axis rotary.
I also have a fleet of industrial 3d Systems printers
My ME buddy bought a new HAAS CNC a couple of years ago. Pretty much filled up the 3rd bay of his garage. I may have posted about it earlier. Pretty amazing what it can do.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I like it when there are multiple solutions to a problem. I will check both, I have a pot meter on my lightsensor so will try that first and will also investigate the signal from a coil/upkicker and flippers.
Quoted from PeterG:Thanks for all the suggestions. I like it when there are multiple solutions to a problem. I will check both, I have a pot meter on my lightsensor so will try that first and will also investigate the signal from a coil/upkicker and flippers.
On the coil strategy, I strongly advise to use an opto, and not a voltage divider. That way you have total isolation, and no risk of frying the Arduino.
Also, when a coil activate, the current draw is so high that the capacitor just after the rectifier gets discharged very quickly, so the coil voltage actually drops significantly (I have scope measurements for this somewhere), which means you will likely go below TTL level on the input if you're using a voltage divider, thus triggering the Arduino into thinking voltage is off. This does not last for more than a few ms (about 20ms on top of my head), but that could induce unwanted effects.
Using an opto, as long as coil voltage is higher than the minimum opto threshold, you will always get a solid output from the opto into the arduino
Otherwise, SW wise, what you're looking for is equivalent to a debouncer: here's a debouncer code, you can probably expand by using three signal read and adjust duration based on light strobe frequency: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/BuiltInExamples/Debounce
Quoted from Ashram56:On the coil strategy, I strongly advise to use an opto, and not a voltage divider. That way you have total isolation, and no risk of frying the Arduino.
Also, when a coil activate, the current draw is so high that the capacitor just after the rectifier gets discharged very quickly, so the coil voltage actually drops significantly (I have scope measurements for this somewhere), which means you will likely go below TTL level on the input if you're using a voltage divider, thus triggering the Arduino into thinking voltage is off. This does not last for more than a few ms (about 20ms on top of my head), but that could induce unwanted effects.
Using an opto, as long as coil voltage is higher than the minimum opto threshold, you will always get a solid output from the opto into the arduino
Otherwise, SW wise, what you're looking for is equivalent to a debouncer: here's a debouncer code, you can probably expand by using three signal read and adjust duration based on light strobe frequency: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/BuiltInExamples/Debounce
Thanks for that, I will start with a software solution. Since that will not add any difficulty to the hardware build etc. The debounce looks nice, I am going to figure that out. Thanks!
Calling all modders....
This is a A. P. B.
Someone needs to make probably one of the best mods ever made and a mod that would sell like 'Hot Cakes'.
Someone please please please make me a 3D printed 'Thing' hand pingulp
Why has someone not made this mod yet?
Seriously someone could sell tons of these-make it so
Adams beverage holder (resized).jpgMy son taught me to use his 3D printer and I’ve been having a great time modding my Mandalorian machine. The beautiful paint job on Kuiil was done by my daughter. So far gravity charges for flashers, speaker panels, troop transport, and Kuiil are done. More to come…
12918AEF-C06A-4EA5-B72E-9C7B56055917 (resized).jpeg18252FF7-BFB7-4BDB-8ACC-DFA7A67F3C9E (resized).jpeg2DD44356-93D8-4FD4-84F5-3A670D1F41CF (resized).jpeg87FEE777-8FDC-4110-8F2B-4C591F56A46C (resized).jpeg
Quoted from pinmister:Calling all modders....
This is a A. P. B.
Someone needs to make probably one of the best mods ever made and a mod that would sell like 'Hot Cakes'.
Someone please please please make me a 3D printed 'Thing' hand pingulp
Why has someone not made this mod yet?
Seriously someone could sell tons of these-make it so
[quoted image]
The cost of filament + print time would make it way too expensive to 3d print in any quantity. It would be more than most people are willing to pay.
Treated myself to a 3d Printer for my birthday, got the Prusa mk3s+ kit, took 3+ weeks to get, and then a weekend to assemble. Assembly was a bit more involved that I realized, but was an enjoyable experience and I was beyond thrilled when after assembly it all just worked. I did crack one part, but have printed a replacement so if it every fails I can replace it.
During the three week wait, I taught myself blender and I've just shared publicly my first project, a reimagined Otto for Oktoberfest. I probably should have started with something smaller, but hey, go big or go home.
Quoted from rosh:Treated myself to a 3d Printer for my birthday, got the Prusa mk3s+ kit, took 3+ weeks to get, and then a weekend to assemble. Assembly was a bit more involved that I realized, but was an enjoyable experience and I was beyond thrilled when after assembly it all just worked. I did crack one part, but have printed a replacement so if it every fails I can replace it.
During the three week wait, I taught myself blender and I've just shared publicly my first project, a reimagined Otto for Oktoberfest. I probably should have started with something smaller, but hey, go big or go home.
That is awesome!!! Now you're just showing off and i'm definitely here for it.
Quoted from rosh:Treated myself to a 3d Printer for my birthday, got the Prusa mk3s+ kit, took 3+ weeks to get, and then a weekend to assemble. Assembly was a bit more involved that I realized, but was an enjoyable experience and I was beyond thrilled when after assembly it all just worked. I did crack one part, but have printed a replacement so if it every fails I can replace it.
During the three week wait, I taught myself blender and I've just shared publicly my first project, a reimagined Otto for Oktoberfest. I probably should have started with something smaller, but hey, go big or go home.
Fantastic work. Very well done.
Mk3S is a fantastic printer. I’d highly recommend the Bondtech geared extruder upgrade. Fixes the one issue with the stock Prusa - overheating the head in some situations.
You learned that in 3 weeks? You are a rockstar!! I tried 3d modeling for an hour, then gave up and browsed cults3d
Quoted from rosh:Treated myself to a 3d Printer for my birthday, got the Prusa mk3s+ kit, took 3+ weeks to get, and then a weekend to assemble. Assembly was a bit more involved that I realized, but was an enjoyable experience and I was beyond thrilled when after assembly it all just worked. I did crack one part, but have printed a replacement so if it every fails I can replace it.
During the three week wait, I taught myself blender and I've just shared publicly my first project, a reimagined Otto for Oktoberfest. I probably should have started with something smaller, but hey, go big or go home.
Quoted from prentice:You learned that in 3 weeks? You are a rockstar!! I tried 3d modeling for an hour, then gave up and browsed cults3d
I found a good tutorial on doing characters, and that got me started, and it was just the first version that was done in 3 weeks, I spent another 3+ weeks refining it and I would certainly do things differently if I was doing it again. It certainly took a lot of time to get the hang of blender and figure things out, but I like a challenge and I had the time.
This was my first print, a current unpainted and the painted . . .
Quoted from rosh:Treated myself to a 3d Printer for my birthday, got the Prusa mk3s+ kit, took 3+ weeks to get, and then a weekend to assemble. Assembly was a bit more involved that I realized, but was an enjoyable experience and I was beyond thrilled when after assembly it all just worked. I did crack one part, but have printed a replacement so if it every fails I can replace it.
During the three week wait, I taught myself blender and I've just shared publicly my first project, a reimagined Otto for Oktoberfest. I probably should have started with something smaller, but hey, go big or go home.
That's rather ingenious how you got the hands to move. I was thinking "What's inside of Otto?" until I took a closer look and spotted how you did that. A+ work.
Quoted from rosh:Treated myself to a 3d Printer for my birthday, got the Prusa mk3s+ kit, took 3+ weeks to get, and then a weekend to assemble. Assembly was a bit more involved that I realized, but was an enjoyable experience and I was beyond thrilled when after assembly it all just worked. I did crack one part, but have printed a replacement so if it every fails I can replace it.
During the three week wait, I taught myself blender and I've just shared publicly my first project, a reimagined Otto for Oktoberfest. I probably should have started with something smaller, but hey, go big or go home.
Wow I'm impressed how quickly you learned blender. I too see how you did the mechanics, I'd be curious how that wears (but great as a starting point to prove it out). I'm sure you could add some little wheels underneath each elbow and maybe some thin steel on top of the ring.
Quoted from rosh:Treated myself to a 3d Printer for my birthday, got the Prusa mk3s+ kit, took 3+ weeks to get, and then a weekend to assemble. Assembly was a bit more involved that I realized, but was an enjoyable experience and I was beyond thrilled when after assembly it all just worked. I did crack one part, but have printed a replacement so if it every fails I can replace it.
During the three week wait, I taught myself blender and I've just shared publicly my first project, a reimagined Otto for Oktoberfest. I probably should have started with something smaller, but hey, go big or go home.
Now I want beer and a pretzel! Nice work Josh, way cool.
Quoted from rosh:Treated myself to a 3d Printer for my birthday, got the Prusa mk3s+ kit, took 3+ weeks to get, and then a weekend to assemble. Assembly was a bit more involved that I realized, but was an enjoyable experience and I was beyond thrilled when after assembly it all just worked. I did crack one part, but have printed a replacement so if it every fails I can replace it.
During the three week wait, I taught myself blender and I've just shared publicly my first project, a reimagined Otto for Oktoberfest. I probably should have started with something smaller, but hey, go big or go home.
thats awesome, well done
Quoted from rosh:I found a good tutorial on doing characters, and that got me started, and it was just the first version that was done in 3 weeks, I spent another 3+ weeks refining it and I would certainly do things differently if I was doing it again. It certainly took a lot of time to get the hang of blender and figure things out, but I like a challenge and I had the time.
This was my first print, a current unpainted and the painted . . .
[quoted image]
Great work especially for your first creation. You just won Pinside this week
Finally done (for now) with Mandalorian mods. All 3d printed. Magnetic bomb flasher covers, bounty puck action button cover, speaker panels, troop transport, foundry, floating gun turret, Kuiil, This is the way topper, and stormtrooper helmets on piles and sand. All but foundry found on Thingverse.
3B3CE9B2-95A0-497C-8547-826957449ABB (resized).jpeg703AA702-674C-4515-9023-8076708D5E38 (resized).jpeg758E3694-8B10-4317-963B-EC565E54848A (resized).jpeg94A9837A-34AD-40DE-BA11-BC0FB748554E (resized).jpeg993C38D8-D9D5-4DC6-B194-E1E06B5B6EAA (resized).jpegA54C22D8-B48D-4472-BBEA-8FB9C2A2A7C6 (resized).jpegC3C3460D-7276-4BE3-BB0A-CE44EDE0D185 (resized).jpegQuoted from PeterG:I catch the led light of the mode. Which in attract modes just flickers, while in game it is off untill the mode is played. Then it is lit solid. I only want it to activate if it is lit solid. Also looked at another light that would not be on in attract mode but there is none, all lights are on. So cannot do an if this and this then that statement.
So I would like it not to trigger it while flickering and only trigger it while lit solid for e.g. 1 or 2 seconds delay but that would be the variable to tweak for me.
You could use the logic - if the light is on longer than X (1 or 2 seconds) - then turn on until the light goes out. The arduino will accept the input (voltage) directly from the light.
Does anyone know where I could get the file to print “Jack the monkey” for the Stern Pirates of the Caribbean? There’s a guy in Italy that sells it but he’s on vacation until September. I’m wanting to print it in resin on the Elegoo Mars 3 but I can’t find the file. I looked everywhere I could think of.
62F32D0D-EC11-47AE-A801-17F03E628CA2 (resized).pngQuoted from mark532011:woohoo, got my Ender 3 S1 Pro in the mail today, happy birthday to me!
Congrats! Happy printing.
My Elegoo Saturn S just showed up today also. Just waiting for Amazon to deliver my Resin (out for delivery).
I’m currently waiting on Anycubic to send me a new filament sensor for my Vyper. It died mid print on me.
I got my Ender 3 S1 Pro set up and attempted a first print. Wow, I can really see why this is still considered a hobby. The manual is non-existent - I literally could not figure out step 1 of the installation and had to go to a YouTube video, nothing is documented, and the youtube videos - even their official unboxing one doesn't match my printer and everyones "unboxing and first print" videos skip a bunch of things.
I believe I have it installed and working correctly though I can't push the supplied filament manually through the nozzle like one video said to do. I auto leveled and figured out how to insert the memory stick and get the example files up on the display (no thanks to the manual) and tried the "rabbit" example. It just pushed a blob of plastic around on the plate.
I am assuming the "thermometer in the water" icon is the bed temperature, (because of course it is not documented anywhere) and it auto-set to 60 (Fahrenheit or Celsius? Who knows) when I selected the rabbit and the bed seemed warm but not blazing hot.
Time to go and hit more Youtube - not impressed so far.
IMG_6364 (resized).jpgIMG_6365 (resized).jpg
Edmonton, AB
Quoted from mark532011:I got my Ender 3 S1 Pro set up and attempted a first print. Wow, I can really see why this is still considered a hobby. The manual is non-existent - I literally could not figure out step 1 of the installation and had to go to a YouTube video, nothing is documented, and the youtube videos - even their official unboxing one doesn't match my printer and everyones "unboxing and first print" videos skip a bunch of things.
I believe I have it installed and working correctly though I can't push the supplied filament manually through the nozzle like one video said to do. I auto leveled and figured out how to insert the memory stick and get the example files up on the display (no thanks to the manual) and tried the "rabbit" example. It just pushed a blob of plastic around on the plate.
I am assuming the "thermometer in the water" icon is the bed temperature, (because of course it is not documented anywhere) and it auto-set to 60 (Fahrenheit or Celsius? Who knows) when I selected the rabbit and the bed seemed warm but not blazing hot.
Time to go and hit more Youtube - not impressed so far.
[quoted image][quoted image]
For my Ender 3, leveling the bed was the first major milestone. It printed for shit before leveling and that still doesnt guarantee adhesion. There are bed leveling models on thingiverse that work nicely. Essentially the trick for me was to level all four corners plus the center to where a piece of paper would begin to catch between the nozzle and bed.
Your pics look like an adhesion problem meaning the part failed to stick to the bed. Leveling is step 1, then getting temps right and optionally adding a brim.
The next learning for me was adding a brim to small parts. Sometimes its needed to give your print some extra material to adhere. For the sample rabbit, probably not? The samples usually have a solid base.
Next is just to learn your filament. Each one for me feels slightly different. It should have temp ranges on the spool. Work with those until it starts to both adhere well to the bed and print well.
Ive also read that keeping your room temp steady and maybe warm for a non enclosed printer can make a difference too. Avoid drafts.
Hope that helps Im only a few weeks ahead of you in printing experience.
thanks for the info! I am using the supplied sample filament which it doesn't even say what material it is. Pretty crappy documentation. I will do more work in the leveling and see what happens.
Quoted from mark532011:thanks for the info! I am using the supplied sample filament which it doesn't even say what material it is. Pretty crappy documentation. I will do more work in the leveling and see what happens.
Likely PLA, so I'd be around 200 or 210ish and maybe 55 for the bed. If your temps are close to that, then I'd look at the extruder gap between the bed. How did you set that? Doesn't hurt to slow down the first layer print speed too to get started.
Yes bed temp needs to be correct, preheat your bed, that helps with mine. I also use adhesive spray.
Quoted from PeterG:Yes bed temp needs to be correct, preheat your bed, that helps with mine. I also use adhesive spray.
I use glue sticks on glass beds. Just don't let it build up too much.
thanks for the advice guys. It looks like its working. I had plate wobble which made leveling quite challenging. Also, adjusting the wheels was quite challenging as all the how-to videos are for the Ender 3 and not the S1 so the "turn it over and adjust the wheels" do not work.
That and I bumped the bed temperature up to 70 and it seems to be sticking quite nicely.
What are some good options for general all around plastic? Say for making light baffles in the head
Quoted from mark532011:That and I bumped the bed temperature up to 70 and it seems to be sticking quite nicely
You should never need to go that hot, at least not with PLA. I never go above 60 (though it depends on your surface type)
Quoted from mark532011:What are some good options for general all around plastic? Say for making light baffles in the head
slicer settings? If you're printing thin walls you have to be careful about infill (because it may only do two layers and not join them together), and if that's the case you'll get a very fragile part. Always do a preview of the slicer to see what it's actually printing. Sometimes when I have thin walls I'll change the nozzle diameter to below .4 and it'll force the head to go back and forth.
1 week later
Linköping
Quoted from Crile1:A couple more mods. Another wonderful paint job on Bag End by my daughter.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Your daughter does some nice work!
I threw together some of the grav charge flasher covers for my mando this week.
9B6E190F-2956-42FB-BD9B-88E9CCB3C214 (resized).jpeg
7FDB1653-113C-47E7-B1A6-DBD5B921026C (resized).jpeg
2F786535-DA4B-4C04-B8A9-7CEA2CCBD8DC (resized).jpeg
A6AF205A-5086-40AA-BBD0-922574452A61 (resized).jpeg
7E34E704-A4D5-4AF6-9FB6-AA6586BEF8EE (resized).jpeg
Compared to what's in the show:
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from bigguybbr:Your daughter does some nice work!
I threw together some of the grav charge flasher covers for my mando this week.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Compared to what's in the show:[quoted image]
Looking good! If you ever print another part with the intention to make it look like chrome, hit it with a gloss black after the primer, and then lay the Krylon “Looking Glass” product on it. Especially if you pre-paint sand it with some 220 grit, It looks like a shined up piece of metal (like the show photos)
These look great too - nice weathered look
Quoted from bigguybbr:Your daughter does some nice work!
I threw together some of the grav charge flasher covers for my mando this week.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Compared to what's in the show:[quoted image]
Looking good indeed. May I know the model you used? A friend downloaded one from thingiverse, but it did not fit his Mandalorian Pro
Cheers
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Dunakeszi
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
