Bravo my friend. Very nice work. If only I owned that beautiful game.

Very nice. I would really love some pointer on what tools to use and tutorials to create this. I can easily design mechanical parts, but wood/stone/living stuff is completely beyond my reach right now

Not entirely, but there are a lot of very specific measurements that are four decimal place type dimensions that none of these CAD programs like. They always truncate them to two decimal spots. In order to maintain their spacial integrity, it'd be better if I used a local friend of mine who I just talked to today and learned he uses the paid version of F360 for his side business. So, that's how I'm gonna get it done. I'll outsmart this damn program one way or another! Thanks for all the help everyone! Now back to our regularly scheduled programming...

In my experience (solidworks,auto Cad) most cad programs calculate to a large number of decimal places. Like 8 or 16. The truncation is just a display setting.

You did say you were working in sheet metal? Correct? I think specifying 4 decimal places on a formed sheet metal part is just asking to be overcharged, (as your vendor charges you to hold a tolerance you are never going to get)

When I was in the store fixture business if you got a sheet metal part that was within a couple of thousandths (inches) you were doing great.

You are correct.. most processes have typical standard tolerances that can be met easily. Anything that's machined is typically plus or minus .002-.006". Anything you design you want to give as much tolerance as you can live with, and you deal with imperfections with clearances. Fortunately 3d printing (so long as your machine is dialed in) can usually print within accuracy of machining tolerance.

Wire EDM goes down to 1/10,000 of an inch

Viggin900 Ashram56 Thank you so much. I used Blender to model this. It’s an amazing software and free! It is a deep software, BUT there is a TON of wonderful tutorials on YouTube. I specifically watched a lot of tutorials on “sculpting.” Blender is not only a rad 3D modeling and animation software but has stellar sculpting capabilities that rival Z-Brush which is basically the industry standard. This guy has some great stuff on sculpting

Most of those "critical" dimensions are four decimal places simply because they're holes drilled to a 16th of an inch increment. Those holes need to only just clear the screw that's going through them to not only mimic the factory part they're replacing, but also to reduce slack and ensure directional accuracy on installation. Basically, it needs to be idiot-proof.

I remember somebody mentioning a 3D printer build plate that had a texture very similar to the black powder coat texture on the coin door, so that printing parts (and paint them black) would look very similar, but I can't find the reference, any pointer ?

Thanks

do NOT buy the gold textured build plates on amazon, they work like crap
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089GS6F38/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Buy the smooth ones and sand lightly as needed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082PFL8TX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Thanks for the advice

Regards

Been using the pei textured side and has been fantastic past couple of months of messing with it. Though I did replace the flatbed also since it was a bit warped and spent a lot of time evening it out to reduce any problems

My Anycubic Vyper has a textured plate and the the surface is relatively close to the coin door surface texture. Planning on going back and shooting it with a bit glossier black which should match even better.

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Have you looked into Cura's new 'fuzzy skin' mode? Looks interesting and might apply here, but I wonder if it will work on a horizontal surface vs. vertical? I guess you could rotate the print at the cost of more supports.

https://all3dp.com/2/cura-fuzzy-skin-simply-explained/

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Has anyone done this TWD roof mod https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2331668 it's not sized properly anyone know the dimensions? TIA

Prusa Slicer has the same feature and I've used it a couple of times on objects. It works great and give a nice texture to the exterior.

I use Maxon C4d only because I do CGI as a day job. The best part about discovering this thread and getting a printer is now I am able to bring things to reality instead of making pretty pictures.

The Prusa textured build plate gives an excellent texture. Small PLA parts don't stick very well to it, though, so you'll need to add a brim.

Both Cura and PrusaSlicer have the fuzzy skin texture feature that isn't the same but looks nice.

Greetings, Here are great exemples of 3D prints available. As a teacher of secondary education in pakistan, I will share of these with my students.

Has anyone tried printing a shooter lane protector?

That seems like a cool idea! with custom embossed flames or graphics along the edges. Ideally it would have to be thin, it might not last very long though.

Super long review of the Bambu lab

Given that I did not get a very high discount when pledging, I'm tempted to just cancel and buy retail once the quirks are ironed out

Bambu Labs just released their stretch goal as a thank you bonus instead of a money target. Everyone, in August, will get a coupon and be able to buy 3 hotend and nozzles for $1.
.4, .6, .8.

A question. What filament would you recommend for a light diffuser? I've got a nice JJP Hobbit, and one of the diffusers in the popups is broken (diffuser circled in pic, below).

Luckily, some kind soul put the STL files for these on Thingiverse. I'm thinking PETG translucent? Maybe PLA translucent? PLA White? Of course, print parameters are especially important, probably want fewer perimeters with less dense infill (2 + 5%)?

Thanks!

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For speaker LED rings, I've settled on 3D Solutech "clear" PLA. Once it's printed, it is less clear (more translucent) than the PETG or other PLA I've tried. White looked pretty crappy.

Every difference in print settings (infill, diagonals vs concentric, print orientation) will affect how it will transmit light. I would think solid would transmit more light. An air gap may do a better job of spreading the light due to different angles of refraction.

I'd start with picking the orientation to make it strong, then play with settings a bit. It's a small part, so not too much time or material wasted during tests. I'd be tempted to print it on it's back (as shown in your pic), but the mounting tabs could be prone to breaking.

Found this on Thingiverse cut him in half. The fingers do not print correctly so I used my 3d pen to make them. Also couldn’t get the teeth picked so I mad them with the pen also.

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I would use clear PLA personally at 100% infill (first one) and probably print different infill values and patterns to achieve whatever look I was going for after the first if it was not the desired result. It looks like it sets down in the playfield?? so I would also print it just like the picture posted. Strength most likely wouldn't be an issue if it is being surrounded by the playfield wood and the most strength would be achieved that way for the screws because it would be crushing down on a solid horizontal layer in my opinion rather than splitting a vertical line.
I don't think white would achieve a desired result as posted above by Herg. White is great for lithophanes because it can harbor shadows well and make them appear gray when light hits it from behind, which is the reason they look so good. Therefore, personally don't think you would like that sort of impact for this application.
Keep us posted, I'm interested in the result.
r/
Mike

Here it is painted gloss black. It's a great match.

IMG_9958 (resized).JPG

I tried a couple of settings for light diffusers for the JJP Hobbit. As I had a roll of PETG transluscent, that's what I went with. Anyway, the best settings which made a nice diffuser were: .25mm layer height, 2 perimeters, no infill, and 4 top/bottom layers. The part was plenty strong (no loads on this part), and the light diffusion was nearly as good as the OEM injected molded parts. Happy with the result. FYI.

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Awesome work. You could do a thingiverse remix with your settings so all us lazy people don't have to think about it.

Hi All,

Does anyone have a Judge Dredd with the topper and willing to use the lidar on their phone and an app to scan the topper for me.

Would love to attempt to 3D print one.

Cheers

topper available in Melbourne

https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/bally-judge-dredd-eagle-topper-03-8936/

Out of stock mate.

Just read up on this,I had no idea. This may be my excuse to upgrade. Whats everyones results when printing the scan?

Scanning works well for stuff with irregular surfaces. Faces, statues, etc. IMHO, scans on large objects with flat surfaces aren't so great. Plus, a topper is large. There's very few printers that can get the whole thing at once. You'll have to break it up. Again, its just my opinion, but 3D scanning and printing a topper will likely produce less than ideal results.

This particular topper is a combination of both sculpture and flat surface. It may work out, depending on size.

I think you would be far better off making a silicone mold and then casting polyurethane resin. I know it doesn't make it "downloadable", but at least it wouldn't take dozens of hours of cleaning up a scan.

What app do you find best for this? I've been thinking about doing this for various pin ideas too, or no-longer-produced mods. I don't have a Pro iPhone yet, though.

Question for those with 3D printing knowledge. What is the best material to use to print something that will be impacted by the ball? I'm specifically talking about the piece that someone created to fix the ball trap by the lower pop bumper. I had two printed, and the first one snapped. I need to install number 2. I'm getting a 3D printer soon so I can make these and anything else I need.

Can you please post the link to the part so we can understand exactly what you are referring to? A photo of the broken part would also be good. May not be the material, but how it was printed (e.g. orientation, infill, shells, etc.) I've used PLA and PETG for impact parts and both have worked without issue.

My come down to my second 3D printing axiom:
1) Just because you can design it, doesn't mean you can print it.
2) Just because you can print it, doesn't mean it will work.

Most will say PETG, but I think it flexes too much (feels like hard gum to me). PLA+ is a nice tough material and easy to print. Also if you have the space, I would try to thicken wherever you can to make up for strength.

Here is the part:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4835017

Looks like the part just before the hole for the post needs to be thicker...but that is beyond my ability.

PLA+, 100% infill, horizontal print should be plenty strong for that. Can you post a picture of the ones you have currently to see if there is an obvious issue to the naked eye. The broken one is of the most interest to me.
r/
Mike

Man, it really depends. Something that is slightly malleable but resilient - PLA is a good combo - pretty resilient but somewhat malleable. PETG is harder to print with but generally more durable and also more malleable. If you’re printing a bash toy I guess I’d try PETG. Also nylon but this is much more difficult to print

I need to see the part that failed and where/how it broke.

My first thought was PETG before looking at the part. But..oof, there is a really thin section that I think is doomed to break on most materials. I am going to guess that's where it snapped? I say TPU is your best bet. It's little finicky to print, but easier than the other options I can think of; polycarbonate and nylon. TPU will absolutely without a doubt never break If you prefer to have it less flexible, you can do a little digging in the different brands and find harder durometer versions (maybe like a 90shore?).

I'd probably just take the thingiverse file and beef it up in TinkerCad where needed.

If you need someone to mod it, I will. Shouldn't take long.

There are two versions.
Bumper Postbiger is reinforced a bit as others also have durability issues.
I use PLA and it holds up perfectly.

I’ve been learning how to use Fusion 360 off and on for a couple of months, but in the past week I’ve had some blocks of uninterrupted time to really try making stuff. So far, I’ve duplicated the WPC lamp insert for the backbox and the WPC-95 pcb mounting plate.

The first real 3D thing I’ve created is a copy of the small light baffle in Junk yard backbox.

Here’s the original vs my 2nd prototype. Just keep in mind that I have no prior CAD experience before critiquing too hard

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Nicely done! My first 3D print that I designed was also a backbox light baffle

Looks great!

Has anyone played with different designs for the lightbox baffles? I thought my first project (when my Ender gets here) will be to try and improve on the design to make a concave curved cone inside of the box instead of a typical squared off one and use mirrored paint, I think I ought to be able to make it a lot brighter that way (more light reflected out)

made a servo testing rig - 3d printers are very handy.