Printed in PETG, they would probably be flexible enough to hold up

No, they won't hold up when printed in either PLA or PETG. I've designed and produced similar parts for an entirely different application/industry and ended up using my models as a prototype we sent to a manufacturer.

Another example where injection molding is superior to layer printing. The main issue is that the tabs are so small you cannot print any cross grain layers, so you loose any potential strength for flexing.

My first thought is to remove the tabs from the design so it's essentially two cylinders. Print with TPU so it will never break. Make the tolerance really tight with the PCB holes. TPU is playable and a bit grippy so it will make a nice tight fit They shouldn't fall out even without the tabs. The material is tricky to print right especially with the small dimensions needed here.

IMO that would work, all the tabs do is aid in installation. I've only had a printer for like 4 days so I am new to this but I'd like to figure it out and design stuff like this myself. I'm using a resin printer too so I've got some learning to do.

This ender 3 pro is really pissing me off. I am lucky to get anything to stick to the plate after running a good square test and uding a ton of glue. Now it must have jammed and it sticks like super glue to all thr parts. I cant get it off? Im ready to chuck the hot end

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you have a leak. tighen the bolts or get a new hotend

Back in business. So my question is if it needs to be hot to get the pla off how do you not get electricuted? The spark it made touching the wire wasnt pleasant! Do i just turn it off real fast?

Yes.. if it’s PLA crank it up to about 240. See if you can wipe any off with a paper towel first. I like to get a small knife afterwards and gently scrape the rest off. Finish with a wire brush. You’ll know when you need to turn it back on and heat it up again.

A spark? That shouldn't have happened. Can you elaborate a bit? Regarding being electrocuted...both the hot end and bed heater is low voltage (lot's of current tho).

Heating the hot end makes it easier to clean. And the nozzle should be hot when you install/uninstall too.

Taking the plunge.

Is this the same as the Micro Center deal? Except, of course the price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR3F9N6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

I live 5 hours away from the nearest one in Atlanta.

Wherever you get the Ender 3, make sure it has the upgraded CPU board (probably been a couple of years since the change). The new CPU incorporates some nice features.

Thanks, I'll have to wait to see what ships, I suppose.

Looking at the one I just linked to and purchased, it doesn't have the magnetic bed and has a generic PS.

Should I be going with this one instead? Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-Certified-Meanwell-220x220x250mm-dp-B07VMG98ZN/dp/B07VMG98ZN/ref=dp_ob_title_def

If you are in any position to, spend a little more and get an anycubic vyper.

That's the Pro and it has a few upgrades over the standard Ender 3. Somewhat mixed responses on whether they're needed or not. I should add it has been probably 2-3 years since I bought my Ender and can't say I've kept up to date on what's shipping now besides the new CPU.

Here's the link for the newer CPU (i.e. motherboard): https://www.amazon.com/Motherboard-Mainboard-V1-1-5with-Customized-Non-Standard/dp/B07TFTVTXK/ref=sr_1_3

I would think the only way you could get an old CPU would be if someone got ahold of some old stock. I'd search the reviews or questions to see if you can be certain.

That much better for a beginner? I thought I'd start with an Ender and move up the ladder. Bad idea?

I'm okay buying a few models. I just want to wet my toes a bit with the Ender.

Ultimately, the tabs are not even that necessary IMO. Can be difficult if you are doing plastic stacks sometimes getting everything put together, but I think you could print 3D spacers the same height, outward diameter, and make the inner diameter just large enough for the bolts/screws you will but utilizing and you'll be golden.

Ditto^^

So I guess the next question would be print vertical or horizontal?

I suggest a two-piece design, printed vertically. The lower piece in PETG, the upper in PETG or TPU.

standoff (resized).png

It looks like filament is leaking from the top of the heater block. Make sure your heater block and heat-break are well attached and your PTFE Bowden tube is pushed far enough into your hot end.

I'll have to make a video on how I tram'd my Ender 3 pro. Never gave me a second of problems. Don't use glue on the build surface! The build surface on the pro is surprisingly good, I've run PLA and PETG on it, and neither have had problems sticking.

I even have a steel flex plate and bl-touch clone waiting to be installed, but frankly they haven't been needed. I was considering doing a series of videos on the "real" essential upgrades to the Ender 3 pro. But except for a small modification to the hotend ptfe tube to allow higher temps and more reliable operation, and better bed springs, nothing else seems "worth it". I've tested at least 6 alternate fan ducts, but they don't make much difference without more airflow. I'm not sure there are any upgrades that improve the performance of the 3 pro with PLA/PETG. I'm not sure "better" prints are going to be easy to achieve, maybe quieter and/or faster, but not much I can see improving quality-wise. Now flexible/higher temp filaments would be another story.

I can't say that I'd spend that much on an Ender 3 pro. Seems like you're not that far in price from much better machines. $350 gets you a Prusa Mini (smaller, but easiest to get good results), Anycubic Vyper (bigger), both come with "auto-leveling", which is really automated tramming, but less hassle either way.

I don't even own an Apollo 13, and I could see myself interested in buying that as a neat model. What would you sell a copy for?

I'd buy one too. I'd love to see a good resin sculpt to inspire. Please PM me as well

I'm not finding a mini prusa available right now. I'm looking at the Anycubic Vipers. I ultimately want to play and explore.

Thanks for the responses, they are very helpful.

Vertical is only choice if you want a true cylinder.

Like the thermal sensor shutoff, which keeps your Ender from causing a fire when there is extreme buildup on the hot end. KIND OF a good idea!

Absolutely!

My first (successful) print. Seems small, will have to measure one. Still waiting on my wash and cure machine too.

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Yeah, but I was also thinking also horizontal for more strength. Depends on the final shape of the standoff and maybe the type of material used.

I picked up a Vyper as my introduction into FDM. I've been very happy with it. The learning curve is very shallow and you are up and successfully printing in no time.

Key for strength in these types of parts is to have a wall thickness that allows for cross grain layers instead of just stacked perimeters. Because of the downward force exerted by the screws on the cylinder when installed, the part will have additional stability and PLA should serve just fine for this application.

With that said, a lot of the fun of 3D design and printing is prototyping, testing, and refining to see what works best in any given application.

I may just screw around with the Ender. And pick up a Vyper FDM as well.

I'm going to order this as well today.

https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Photon-Mono-Printing-Monochrome/dp/B08HH329TR/ref=sr_1_5

https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Photons-Printer-Cleaning-Machine/dp/B083GTS8XJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

Any thoughts on these? I'm just prototyping.

EDIT - Canceled my order for Ender and bought an Anycubic Kobra. Still shopping the resin printer.

Thanks

I'd tackle one at a time. FDM printers are totally different beasts from Resin printers (there is barely even overlap in slicing software). Most of the knowledge/skill in working with one doesn't necessarily transfer to the other. Best to get going with one first, then add the other a bit later.

So from those familiar with resin printers - are these 'wash station / machines' a must have? Or can I do this with some sort of basin ? I know the chemicals are not something to mess with haphazardly, but I need to understand the footprint in my shop

I get that. I'll order both and play with the FDM for a bit and then make the move. I'm sure I'll blow everything!

Thanks sandro

Such an easy printer to use, mainly the leveling which is the #1 challenge for beginners.

This guy has a pretty good demo of one in use. Looks helpful enough for me to try.

I didn't need a big print bed, so I went with a Kobra... should I have stuck with a Vyper?

"must" as far as it makes life easier. First month i had a bucket of IPA outside i would dunk my prints in and wash thoroughly before bringing them inside. Was using Tupperware at first, but my prints were getting larger and larger where I needed something to easily submerge to. Only reason I got a machine now as because I needed the curing station and the kit came with both, so why not. The curing station, either purchased or DIY, is a bit more of a requirement. I was using either a UV flashlight or leaving out in the sun for a few hours. Now that, was obnoxious to do. With the curing station, I'll pop the models in for 8 minutes after washed and dry and they're pretty much 100% ready.

I appreciate the thorough explanation. Clearly I need to do some more reading. Washing station - I get that; remove uncured resin and residue. NP. The curing station; isn't that what the printer is for? I'll read up.

It's to "finalize" the cure. It's still kinda sticky and soft-ish after a wash. So you post precess it to harden and reinforce the structure.

*Edit I had it wrong. The Kobra max build plate dimensions are larger than the Vyper. The Kobra is only slightly smaller than the Vyper*

Vyper - 245 x 245 x 260 mm
Kobra - 222 x 222 x 252 mm
Kobra Max- 400 x 400 x 450 mm

I think one of the most important things for any printer is the community support. Both parts (including upgrades) and forums.

The Kobra I ordered is 220x220x250mm

The Kobra Max says it's 45 x 40 x 40 cm

Copy that, thanks

Well I'm going head first I suppose! FLM and Resin at the same time.

How is the PEI sheet working? I am tired of waisting time with rafts. Everything else U have tried lifts up on me. Thanks

You are completely right! I was confused. Thank you for the correction. I'll edit my original post

The PEI build plate on the Vyper has been great for PLA. I can print most things without a brim or raft.

It didn't help on my last attempt at ABS where it still curled on a long narrow section I tried to print.

I've only done a few smaller prints using PLA+ (need to order some filament to print anything substantial), but so far, so good. No rafts needed.

On some of my larger area prints, boy - the rafts were a fair amount of material. I had even bumped the raft layers down one to minimize waste and time.

One thing I haven't tried since changing is using Cura's 'Touching build plate' Tree Support. I suspect the support might be a little tricky compared to touching a raft. Like this:
pasted_image (resized).png

Elegoo Mars 3 on amazon has 8% off and a $60 off coupon going on right now.

I just bought one and a wash station, thought I'd share the deal. Comes out $10 less than buying straight from elegoo and has quick prime delivery.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095K3JWP3/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00

I have tried PC, PEX, and PEI.

PEI for me hands down. That's why it's currently in my machine and the others are just gathering dust.

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Welp, people who sell similar coolers might be pissed, here is my personal file for a 3d printed flipper coil fan cooler. I tried to make mine a little more "beefy" some others selling them on here look like they might snap easily

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/376D1kUwxCO

Flip it on it's side and don't forget to add supports.

Please feel free to use it, I charge a whopping $0

Here is the link for some good fans too
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYWVPMY

You will need longer machine screws as the ones that come with the fans are not long enough to fit the cooler.