I get a 404 from your link.

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Same^

Were either of you logged in to thingiverse when you tried? I'm trying to verify if that's a factor. I also get the 404 from my phone when not logged in but it works on my laptop where I am.

I get nothing but a 404, not logged in nor even have an account.

Doing a search for "hobbit medieval madness pinball beast troll bracket" comes up with nothing as well.

Thanks to joetechbob and mattosborn for sharing the files for the Stern IC coin door. I printed up the one from joetechbob because he sent it first and it looks great. I think my printer could be dialed in a little better to get rid of some of the lines, but overall I'm super happy with it and happy I didn't have to pay someone to make it. This is after 3 coats of the Hammered Black spray paint. I printed a couple more, I did a little more sanding and a couple more coats of paint. I may see if a clear coat makes it match a little better. I'll post those later if they come out any better.

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This model for the coin door adapter is the one to use. It's raised in the middle to sit flush with the outside of the coin door like the inserts are supposed to be. It will look a lot nicer. I printed one and it came out nice. Hopefully the designer will put it on Thingiverse; otherwise it is very simple to add the raised section to other models...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-insider-connected/page/43#post-6677515

Hey PinballHaven , did you see this reply and made sure you published it?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby/page/32#post-6710664

Thingiverse has some issues, but I know it does allow you to keep things (pun) private till you have everything updated like you want it. Once complete, make sure to click publish to make publicly available.

If you did click publish, you may want to try these steps here: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/thingiverse/forums/site-issues-and-feedback/topic:42725

I do like the raised center of that model better, but I like the way the IC mounts on the one I printed. If I knew what I was doing I'd combine the 2.

I combined both the elevated front of mattosborn with the mounting of joetechbob in fusion 360. My ender 3's hotend is busted so resin printed to test it out. I need to make some adjustments to the layer cure time as it created a weird misalignment and will also slightly shrink the perimeter of the raised area as its too tight to install it flush, less so after painting it.

Overall came out fantastic! Will probably make the final version for my game in resin. thanks guys for providing those files. If its cool with them and if anyone wants the updated combined model with the extra adjustments, I can provide provide that model

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That looks good. What orientation did you print that in? Was it 45° with the bottom edge down? Large flat surfaces always cause me trouble in resin.

straight upright because I wanted to save 50 cents in resin, lol. It needed very little supports which was nice but think thats what contributed to that weird offset on the front. Offset happened where the reader bracket started on the other side, so might rotate it slightly...maybe 15-30 degrees.

I've stopped doing large flat surfaces for that reason, either you print on the plate and it gets stuck there, or you have it float on supports and it looks all jacked till it balances out.

Hmk, after making a couple of minor adjustments i prepped it again in the slicer and put it at a slight angle and uses even less supports than upright. forgot if at 60 or 70 degrees, but supports look better than 45 so might be the way to go. will find out tonight after it finishes

I went through and edit / re-published, sorry to be high maintenance but asking again for a link check here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5192000

Thanks all!

Like others have said, thingiverse has it's own issues lol.

Just tried it again too and works for me!

awesome thanks so much!

FYI -- I have one designed with a raised/flush face, but I haven't tested it yet. I'll give it a go today and will upload that one as well if it works.

Glad to see it's working! I have a thinner (faster/cheaper to print) version I'm playing with (trying to get it so it can be sent with a postage stamp if someone wants to help a buddy) and also another one that is flush mount on the front.

I can't final test as I'm printing something else at the moment, but here's a corrected flush mount version of my insider connected adapter plate (first flush rev I tested had too large of margins => 2mm gap on right/left side): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5199964

You'll need to print with supports, but be sure to print with the QR code reader side *down* on the build plate. The bump up the front side is too thin and supports won't come off cleanly and leaves enough material to keep it from being flush.

If someone has a chance to print this updated version, let me know if it needs any further adjustment.

To me the best way to do the raised flush face AND have mounting built onto the back would be to print in two pieces. That way there would be no support needed when printing. It is super easy to design as one piece and then split it in two with small alignment pegs and holes built into the two pieces. Just a few drops of good glue and snap the two pieces together and it would be good to go.

Not a bad idea. I was thinking of gluing the raised panel but didn't consider gluing the mount itself.

That is why you have small pegs on one side and corresponding holes on the other. It would snap together perfectly aligned every time.

Agreed. Misread your post on first pass. I'll have to give that a go

So today I recieved 2 PM s regarding the Rudy funhouse face from planetary pinball , about copyrights and some other stuff that I keep for myself .I decided to take the post down with pictures and I won’t share the files. He is the owner of the funhouse/Williams copyright .I’m not on this forum to have problems . My thought was to help people but that was just destroyed. So if anyone s angry take it up with Rick

In the automotive field a car manufacturer cannot prevent the aftermarket from selling a comparable part.

ANSML isn't even selling a part. This is blatant lawfare.

He wants his license fee. I wouldn't give up, maybe ask him what the fee would be and just include that in your cost.

I’m not here to sell, it was my idea to give it for free to the community so everybody can enjoy it as pinball is expensive as it is already….

You can do that and Rick has no standing whatsoever

You aren’t manufacturing anything or making any money. All good.

Hmmm you all do have a point. Let me check in to this

No more dangling qr reader from the coin door. I might have shrunk the perimeter .5mm too much on the raised section but not really noticable. Kinda want to make an AIQ specific (decorated) plate now.

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The fact that PPS allows Classic Arcades to make some of the sh*t repros they make proves you 100% correct.

saving here for others to reference (not my work):

Replacement for Bally/Williams part A-15893. Mounts commonly available Fliptronics type 1 opto board and interrupter. (Part no longer made / available)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3835725

3D printed using free files on Thingiverse with an Ender 3 V2. PLA black with acrylic paint. Found art online and modified in Photoshop. We are new to 3D printing so you can do it too!

This is the ancestry of all machines that have left our home...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4585705

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That is pretty awesome!

Which files did you use? Looks great!

I used these files for the 3D print. But for each pin I searched for cabinet art individually on google (takes awhile but not bad if you are interested in it!)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4585705

Can support be reduced? I printed a fortnite figure for my nephew and it looked like more support then figure. Then by the time I removed support I had no figure. 4 hours of print time wasted. I'm not at computer now but will try and find setting for support tomorrow.
Thanks in advance.

Awesome, I should really learn how to use Photoshop..

Figures are rough depending on the size and pose of the limbs. Sometimes rotating the model on the slicer program can yield better results. If you have the model stl, can you share it to see what the software is doing?

This is the one. Thanks

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2904018

Not sure on the scale you're using, i did 50% of the model, but the supports looks right for what it needs to print. The smaller the print, the higher the calibration your printer might need to be in order for the supports to have just enough adhesion to the model but still able to be snapped off without anything else coming off.

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What program did you use to model it?

I learned it in grad school 15 yrs ago and is something I have used for so many applications. It's worth it and easier to learn now with so many you tube videos out there

I scaled it down to about 55- 60%. I tried a wood filament and it was my 1st time using supports with it. I'll try it again using PLA.

Yeah, about the same size then. It might look like the supports and the legs are one in the same, but as long as it didnt meld into the body, you should be able to carefully break it off. I'm not sure if theres a better way, but for similar prints i use small pliers and wire cutters to try to break it appart in different spots to peel it.