which way did you print the pin ball holder - base down or on it's side. Make sure to rotate the part so prints base down.

Noticed that - it printed front down. I just printed the downloaded file I found, still yet to learn the software but will check that out. The corners do look rough on this print hey. Thanks.

This is cool. I don't have Funhouse but it's my GFs favorite machine these days and I think it would be fun to print her a Rudy face. She'd get a kick out of it for sure

Has anyone ever come across an Attack From Mars Martian STL?

I have not seen one. I had the opportunity to use photogrammetry on one, but I am not that technical. If there is interest, I do have a 3d modeler that I use that could make one. Probably be like $30 bucks.

Assuming it is high quality, I would pay $30 for sure. And of course I would share with the community.

I have a expensive scanner we use on car parts I can do the Martian next week

That would be awesome! What kind of scanner are you using?

Heck yeah, that would be awesome!

DavidCPA we are using a Artec Space also know as the spider

Problem is as with any scanner expensive or consumer grade is cleaning up the scan file with all sort of distortions picked up around a object . So it’s not like scan and print you shave your scan first and or line up multi scans and then make a complete image to print

Where can I find the Spider-Man building mods? Buildings specifically.

Anyone able to print the spotlight brackets for JJP GNR?

For those out there with artistic 3D printing capabilities...

Would love to see someone create and sell a low profile building facade for the backboard of the Godzilla pinball machine (to sit on the back wall to the right of the subway building). It would be light enough that it could be attached simply by double sided tape. I think that would add some nice dimension and look quite cool.

Anyone out there interested in tackling that?

I'm sure if you post up the dimensions, and a rough sketch of what you're thinking (maybe a photo of the area too), someone could model something simple up

Excellent idea. I will do so and report the dimension and a picture of the area and see if someone might be interested in doing that.

EDIT:
So below are some pictures of the backboard of the playfield. The area in question is the flat picture of the building, sitting to the right of the left subway building facade. The sticker picture of the building dimensions (from above the orbit guide) is a clean 6 in tall by 4 in wide.
PXL_20220107_133453139~2 (resized).jpgPXL_20220112_114312105 (resized).jpgPXL_20220112_114330018 (resized).jpgPXL_20220112_114339699 (resized).jpg

PXL_20220107_133505959~3 (resized).jpg

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5197717

Re-uploaded new version

That looks like that would be perfect!
For me, I do not have personal access to any of these 3D printing machines, however, if someone were willing to print that in some basic color, I would certainly be happy to reimburse someone for their time in printing that out and shipping it. Once received in a basic color, one could always color that building on the back end how they wished.
But yeah, that link above looks like that would be amazing!! Thank you for doing that!

As shown, I can print it for $10 plus $5 shipping. Didn't take me long to model that but figure I should make something off it. Send me a PM.

Heck yeah @toyotaboy.
I'll shoot you a PM.
Thx!!

You da man! That was speedy!

Question for the experienced: what is the process to have something show up in the thingiverse searches and viewable by all? I have added a new bracket for MM/Hobbit beasts but my links aren’t working for others. Same issue in tinkercad where I designed it. Thanks in advance!

On the page where you edit the description there is a "Publish Thing" button at the top next to Save. It should be available after that but it can take a few hours/days for their search to index and find new items. You should be able to send people the direct url link right away.
Screenshot 2022-01-12 112054 (resized).png

Thingiverse is really broken. There's a good chance it's the site itself just not working. I have things I've made that just don't show up in searches even if I use the exact terms. It seems like sometimes there's a long delay before you publish a thing and it gets integrated into the site

Thanks, I will mess with it some more. It’s not just search, the direct link gives a 404 error for others?!?

Yah, I’ve had the same issue uploading things… they are there but not visible even to myself. Had to re-upload at least 1

I use Yeggi to search for prints, there is also a filter to set on free models only.

My latest print and paint job

20220112_233022 (resized).jpg

I dusted off my printer last night and I want to mess with some mods. I'm a total rookie when it comes to designing anything so criticism is welcome. I wanted to use the coin door plate for a mod, so I started by scanning it on my flat bed and importing it into Tinkercad. I got the scaling right, and it actually came out decent. There are some artifacts from the scan though, is there an easy way to clean those up in Tinkercad? I'm guessing the image should be cleaned up in Photoshop first? You can see the artifacts in the 3d model and also how it transferred to the print.

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Easiest way to flatten a surface is to overlay a cutout shape (rectangle in this case) on top and on bottom of object then merge them. Once flatted on both sides, with an object like this you can just set the thickness to what it should be once fixed.

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I can't help you with Tinkercad (I use Inventor), but I've modeled that DBV plate, originally for adding an external volume switch and then recently I updated it for the Stern IC QR reader. You can see it here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-insider-connected/page/43#post-6677515

Happy to share the STL with you, or maybe export the design to some other format you can use. If the change you're looking to make isn't too elaborate, just send me some dimensions and I can whip up a design.

I drew this plate up in Tinkercad, and just used calipers to get the right dimensions/locations. Interesting technique to use an image from a scanner, hadn't tried that before. But not sure it's necessary in this case as it's a pretty simple shape to duplicate.

Did the same for the QR code scanner (calipers) and then designed a simple mount for it on the back side of the plate.

If you don't mind sharing those files that would be great. That was actually my end goal, the QR scanner.
[email protected]

How did you mount the QR scanner to the plate? Do you have a file you could share?

I appreciate you sharing this STL with me earlier. As expected, the STL is not the best format if you want to make edits - you really need the original design. I am wanting to modify it to mount a 4-bank ethernet switch for sharing an IC scanner.

Do you think you might be able to try exporting your project to Fusion 360 so I can give it a shot? Looks like it is possible to export/import:

https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/inventor/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-export-Inventor-assembly-files-and-open-them-in-Fusion-360.html

I've only used 360 for CNC cuts before, so using it for 3D print models is a new frontier for me.

Congrats that's better than the Stern rod I paid $169 for

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5198455

Shared under non-commercial/non-derivative license (i.e., no printing to sell). Use two half-inch long #4 wood screws to attach the QR scanner.

Get a 10 foot ethernet cable if necessary: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable-10-Feet-3-Meters/dp/B00N2VIALK/ref=sr_1_1

If you buy the cables in a 5 pack, it's less than $4 per cable. So basically you can do a machine for around $5 to $6.

Edit: Attached images of this installed w/ some random screws I had laying around. Note that the screws I used are about a mm too long. Hadn't had a chance to run to the hardware store and get properly sized screws at that time. Also, for a nicer finished on front, use hammered black paint (e.g., https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Universal-Gloss-Black-Hammered-Spray-Paint-and-Primer-In-One-Actual-Net-Contents-12-oz/3728965). I didn't bother to paint mine, as in my gameroom lighting you can't really tell anyway given that this plate is recessed (I have a flush faced one drawn up that I haven't tested yet).
PXL_20220113_154836394.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20220113_154847972 (resized).jpg

Here's a flush mount version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5199964

Note that at the time of this writing, I haven't had a chance to final test. Did make an initial print which fit, but had too large of margins which I adjusted.

Note that you will need to print with supports, but be sure that the QR code reader side is down on the build plate. The front/face side bump up is too small to cleanly remove all support material and will prevent it from being fully flush mounted.

Personally, I would have just scanned it as a 2D object, bring it into photoshop, convert to STL, upload to Tinkercad, set proper thickness, then add a rectangle on top for the projected area (probably would round the corners), and printed. Sounds like a lot of effort, but I could easily knock it out in 15-30 minutes (minus printing).

Took about an hour to measure and draw. But it's definitely an interesting idea that I'll have to explore. I guess I always just bust out the calipers/ruler and draw based on that vs scanning.

Also: Have iterated a bit with thinner plates, etc., and another one that makes the front flush with the coin door (but still thicker). The thin one I think I could mail in an envelope w/ normal postage given dimensions and weight, but wouldn't feel rigid w/out insider connected installed and bolted to door.

I'll try pulling the design into Fusion360 so it will be easy to share. I really should start using Fusion360 more, since it's free (for most) and easy to collaborate online. Eventually it will replace Inventor anyway. I've been reluctant to move just because I'm familiar with Inventor so I can get things done faster. And while the two products seem very similar on the surface, there are subtle differences that piss me off at times. But I realize I need to take the leap and just figure out the Fusion360 way.

Easiest way is to just drill a couple holes in the plate (make sure you print it "solid"). If you don't want to see screw/bolt heads on the outside, you could just use black RTV silicone to hold it in place.

How do I smooth out the steps/lines in a Sculpt. To make it appear less 3D Priinted and more molded?

Anything to do with coin door skin looks good with "Hammered" black paint to add some texture and shine. Rustoleum makes it in a spray can readily available. Do a few coats within an hour (follow instructions). Recoating times seem to be really important to follow when printing PLA. I've had some disasters when I waited to long!

You can insert the mesh in fusion 360, create a face group then convert to a full body to make it editable like anything else. Thats what I did with the DBV file and was able to add extra mounting features, holes, etc

I just built up enough material to drive cheap wood screws into and left a small void for each to help them get started. No drilling required.

Also, if you want the f3d file, lmk and i can export it from the cloud save. I have the upgraded license that has a better conversion option from mesh to body to have single smooth faces as opposed to a bunch of triangles creating the curves (that makes it harder to edit).

Neat-did you just print and glue to a blank shooter rod, or make something that can go overtop of the existing end?

Printed and used a blank rod. Used epoxy glue. The model is on thingiverse. It is actually a draft handle for beer.

Depends on what you are making, but in general if using PLA print in thinner layers, multiple coats of spray primer with a light sanding in between with a fine grit paper, a coat or two of paint, and possibly a final coat of clear.

Take a crack at it, and if you want to share your Tinkercad file with me, I'm happy to tweak it if needed (or if I get some time I can just do one from scratch and share with you).

Can someone please check this link? Also is the licensing my problem on this not working? Thanks in advance-

"hobbit medieval madness pinball beast troll bracket by krawcyk is licensed under theCreative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial license."

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5192000