Quoted from dudah:PLA+ >> PLA
I gotta say, I’ve been pretty disappointed with the PLA+ I’ve been printing recently. I’ve only tried one brand - what are you using ?
Quoted from dudah:PLA+ >> PLA
I gotta say, I’ve been pretty disappointed with the PLA+ I’ve been printing recently. I’ve only tried one brand - what are you using ?
I've had pretty good luck with these 2 brands
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NJCB9C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0883FS7PH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
I had success with PLA+ from eSun. I wasn't exactly stress testing it but it printed nicely and seemed stronger than normal PLA by a good amount
Quoted from Anony:I had success with PLA+ from eSun. I wasn't exactly stress testing it but it printed nicely and seemed stronger than normal PLA by a good amount
Agreed. I print a lot with eSun PLA+ with good results. Although I will say, a recent white batch of this has turned really brittle coming off the spool and usually breaks into many pieces when changing filament. I am not sure if it is color blend specific, or a batch specific problem. This might be my 10th roll across 5 different colors and this has been my only issue so far. I will say it is worth doing a temperature calibration tower for each color as they do behave differently. I use their yellow for my High Speed/Getaway LED stop lights. The color is rich and it prints smooth.
DSC08734_1_sm (resized).jpgDSC08737_sm (resized).jpg
I found Hatchbox silver ABS was really brittle, broke off two pieces before getting it loaded in the machine.
Breaking on the spool usually indicates moisture got into the filament. I've had a few that started doing that after leaving them out of their box during a humid summer but I've also had it with new spools that I think had a factory defect. If you just opened it and it's doing it I'd try to get a refund.,
Really annoying trying to print and the printer asks for new filament every twenty minutes.
sunlu, esun, jayo, warhorse, is all the same company as well as many others from china. Cheap PLA here https://www.sunlu.com/products/christmas-sale-pla-silk-1-75mm-3d-filament-1kg-2-2lbs-minimum-quantity-20-each-unit-10-8-1kg?fbclid=IwAR1qcey4UXQ00YX6mqa8w-usVBeZY_9-mY-FSL8-1P_H6i9IBgZzgyMDa70
You get what you pay for with filament, I have no problem spending a few extra bucks to get a nicer quality filament. I also try to use my filament dryer box often. I also keep my filament in vacuum sealed bags with dessicant and stored in a sealed tub.
While we're talking about cheap filament -- I've been pretty happy with GST3D. They frequently run specials for 10 spools at $9 each. Curious if anyone else has used them.
https://gst3d.us/collections/mega-packs/products/pack-x10-pla-1kg-each
I don’t think I would use a 3D printer, but I love this feed! It’s really cool to see the products you make!
Ben & Bud just did a review on the Anycubic Vyper printer. You may want to skip some of the ramblings
I like the look of the auto leveling head and magnetic bed for the price.
Quoted from waveman:While we're talking about cheap filament -- I've been pretty happy with GST3D. They frequently run specials for 10 spools at $9 each. Curious if anyone else has used them.
https://gst3d.us/collections/mega-packs/products/pack-x10-pla-1kg-each
i second that. ive bought easily 30-40 spools, never had an issue.
Quoted from waveman:While we're talking about cheap filament -- I've been pretty happy with GST3D. They frequently run specials for 10 spools at $9 each. Curious if anyone else has used them.
https://gst3d.us/collections/mega-packs/products/pack-x10-pla-1kg-each
Darn - looks like you have to buy multiples?
Great prices if you print a lot.
Quoted from mbwalker:Darn - looks like you have to buy multiples?
Great prices if you print a lot.
Yeah, their prices goes up quite a bit when you buy fewer than the 10 pack. I just got a bunch of different colors.
I was just gifted on Raspberry Pi 4 with camera and OctoPrint ready to go. I have some learning/research to do to get it integrated with my Prusa MK3S, so looking forward to spending time with it over the holidays. Does anyone here already have such a setup that would be willing to point me to some good resources to fast track the learning curve?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I was just gifted on Raspberry Pi 4 with camera and OctoPrint ready to go. I have some learning/research to do to get it integrated with my Prusa MK3S, so looking forward to spending time with it over the holidays. Does anyone here already have such a setup that would be willing to point me to some good resources to fast track the learning curve?
I have mine set up like this. Put together the Octoprint Pi myself. It’s GREAT actually. The only thing you need to put in PrusaSlicer is the IP address to the Pi, and there might also be a hash key you get from Octoprint. It’s like a 2 minute setup
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I have mine set up like this. Put together the Octoprint Pi myself. It’s GREAT actually. The only thing you need to put in PrusaSlicer is the IP address to the Pi, and there might also be a hash key you get from Octoprint. It’s like a 2 minute setup
So what's the major advantage of running a Pi + printer? I just dump gcode to the USB stick from Cura using my PC and stick it in the printer, and hit print on the Ender.
I currently run the BigtreeTech Motheboard + Touch screen, but is there any advantage with octoprint that I'm missing out on?
Quoted from mbwalker:So what's the major advantage of running a Pi + printer? I just dump gcode to the USB stick from Cura using my PC and stick it in the printer, and hit print on the Ender.
I currently run the BigtreeTech Motheboard + Touch screen, but is there any advantage with octoprint that I'm missing out on?
Remote monitoring, TSD will use AI to detect failed prints and automatically pause the printer, endless plugins and customization.
Printing from USB is fine, but it's way nicer to sit at my PC and use the webUI versus a little display and a little knob.
When making parts I often make multiple revisions and it's way more convenient to upload to the pi over the webUI versus swapping the USB back and forth.
The value for the entry price is incredible.
You won't regret it.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I was just gifted on Raspberry Pi 4 with camera and OctoPrint ready to go. I have some learning/research to do to get it integrated with my Prusa MK3S, so looking forward to spending time with it over the holidays. Does anyone here already have such a setup that would be willing to point me to some good resources to fast track the learning curve?
I used Octoprint for years. It does work well. Prusaslicer moved where you input the IP and Octoprint API key (which you get from the Octoprint config page). Go to the Printer Settings tab and click on the gear wheel that is just right of the printer name drop down. It used to be grouped with the main printer setting options, but would get overwritten with profile updates or loading other 3mf files. It is now sticky which is nice, but a pain to find.
There is a bug reported with the MK3S filament runout sensor not working specifically when using Octoprint. Keep that in mind if you rely on that printer feature.
A couple things I have learned; I recently switched to Repetier Server as Octoprint can't manage multiple printers. I also moved from a raspi to a NUC. I run my print server 24/7 and eventually (weeks/months) the raspi SD card will become corrupt and which require a full rebuild. I got tired of this.
Feel to reach out with a PM if you have questions on usage or set up.
Quoted from Aniraf:I'm not sure if anyone cares about this or not...but I figured I would throw it out here.
For a long time I've been using those rubber "casters" that protect my floor from the metal leg levelers. The problem with them is that they don't really allow for you to move the machine that much. In fact, it sometimes feels like I am tipping it rather than sliding it.
I've used this brand 'cups' for 20 years, they don't make them as sturdy as they used to, but they still work great on carpet or tile.
https://www.amazon.com/MAGIC-SLIDERS-4600-Pack-Concave/dp/B000H5VNPY
MS (resized).jpg+1 for octoprint. If your printer is right beside your PC you don't need it but if your printer is upstairs like mine is it's really nice to be able to watch what your printer is doing without physically being there.
I had it set up one point with a telegram server where I could send a message and it would text me a photo of my printer. I used to use it a lot when I was newer to printing and would go out but worry about my print failing or going on fire or something lol.
Quoted from mbwalker:So what's the major advantage of running a Pi + printer? I just dump gcode to the USB stick from Cura using my PC and stick it in the printer, and hit print on the Ender.
I currently run the BigtreeTech Motheboard + Touch screen, but is there any advantage with octoprint that I'm missing out on?
If you use CURA, it has the direct print via USB built in. I hated that when I switched over to PrusaSlicer, because PrusaSlicer doesn't currently support it - you have to use Octoprint. However, the Pi allows you to add a camera, which is REALLY important when you are doing hella long prints. I printed a ton of parts for my R2D2 last year and it was immensely helpful to see if something screwed up, and I could kill the print remotely without wasting time and filament.
The other thing is there are a huuuuuuge number of plugins for Octoprint. Remote access, a touchscreen UI (my Pi has a touchscreen), camera control, temperatre monitoring, a dashboard to see multiple data points at once. The best one IMO is the mesh leveling analyzer, so you can really dial in super precise leveling and get better top layers. Finally, there is this one: "Spaghetti Detective" which uses the camera and recorded/analyzes your print so if it fails, it can pinpoint exactly where/when and allow you to make adjustments. For example, if there's not enough support in a particular area.
many of the other plugins are 'fun' things like this time lapse creator:
Anyway, so not strictly required, but if you want to tweak or you really want to get things dialed in, it's awesome.
Also, not Octoprint, but I'd like to see this feature added to other slicers eventually:
the final output is incredibly smooth
pasted_image (resized).png
Thanks for the input everyone. My printer sits right behind me in my home office. However, I'm constantly doing prints that require multiple filament changes when I'm not in my office, so my primary use will be to monitor remotely (i.e. from somewhere in the house) when the changes are required. Also, I do long overnight prints and prints while I'm away so it will be nice to be able to check in on these.
I already use a WiFi enabled SD card for transferring files remotely to the printer, so not really gaining much there. I do use Prusa Slicer, but really not a big deal at all saving the gcode file locally (especially since I archive them anyway) and then dragging-and-dropping the files to the wireless SD card.
I'm so stink'n busy with my real work before Christmas that I'm not sure when I'm going to actually be able to devote the time to getting it setup and start playing with it. Hopefully I can carve out some time this weekend.
The good news is my friend who gifted it to me (I recently got him started in the 3D printing hobby) has mostly already pre-configured it. It is setup for my printer model, already connects to my Wi-Fi, has Spaghetti plugin installed (and a ton of others). I just need to get the thing connected, figure out how/where I'm going to mount the camera, and start learning how to use everything.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Also, not Octoprint, but I'd like to see this feature added to other slicers eventually:
the final output is incredibly smooth
The ironing feature in Prusa Slicer is great (I use the native settings as well as modifiers to apply ironing in different ways), but I do believe this was in CURA first (or at least some other well-known slicer) as I recall wishing that Prusa would add it after seeing it somewhere else.
Quoted from dudah:Remote monitoring, TSD will use AI to detect failed prints and automatically pause the printer, endless plugins and customization.
Printing from USB is fine, but it's way nicer to sit at my PC and use the webUI versus a little display and a little knob.
When making parts I often make multiple revisions and it's way more convenient to upload to the pi over the webUI versus swapping the USB back and forth.
The value for the entry price is incredible.
You won't regret it.
Quoted from Anony:+1 for octoprint. If your printer is right beside your PC you don't need it but if your printer is upstairs like mine is it's really nice to be able to watch what your printer is doing without physically being there.
I had it set up one point with a telegram server where I could send a message and it would text me a photo of my printer. I used to use it a lot when I was newer to printing and would go out but worry about my print failing or going on fire or something lol.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:If you use CURA, it has the direct print via USB built in. I hated that when I switched over to PrusaSlicer, because PrusaSlicer doesn't currently support it - you have to use Octoprint. However, the Pi allows you to add a camera, which is REALLY important when you are doing hella long prints. I printed a ton of parts for my R2D2 last year and it was immensely helpful to see if something screwed up, and I could kill the print remotely without wasting time and filament.
The other thing is there are a huuuuuuge number of plugins for Octoprint. Remote access, a touchscreen UI (my Pi has a touchscreen), camera control, temperatre monitoring, a dashboard to see multiple data points at once. The best one IMO is the mesh leveling analyzer, so you can really dial in super precise leveling and get better top layers. Finally, there is this one: "Spaghetti Detective" which uses the camera and recorded/analyzes your print so if it fails, it can pinpoint exactly where/when and allow you to make adjustments. For example, if there's not enough support in a particular area.
many of the other plugins are 'fun' things like this time lapse creator:
Anyway, so not strictly required, but if you want to tweak or you really want to get things dialed in, it's awesome.
Also, not Octoprint, but I'd like to see this feature added to other slicers eventually:
the final output is incredibly smooth
[quoted image]
Thanks for all the detailed comments!
wow, octoprint has changed a lot since I last used it 3-4 years ago. Might dive back into setting it up.
Quoted from Sleal16:wow, octoprint has changed a lot since I last used it 3-4 years ago. Might dive back into setting it up.
I was going to say I need to update mine beause that looks a lot better lol. Probably been 2 years since I updated it
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:The ironing feature in Prusa Slicer is great (I use the native settings as well as modifiers to apply ironing in different ways), but I do believe this was in CURA first (or at least some other well-known slicer) as I recall wishing that Prusa would add it after seeing it somewhere else.
Agreed, the ironing function is pretty awesome. And yes Cura was the one to come up with that.
Fuzzy outside layer is pretty cool too. My brother sells a 3d printed product and he uses the fuzzy skin to make it look less like it's 3d printed and it works pretty well.
One thign I did with my printer is add a screen right to it so I can control octoprint directly. Probably not worth the effort but it looks cool
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:The ironing feature in Prusa Slicer is great (I use the native settings as well as modifiers to apply ironing in different ways), but I do believe this was in CURA first (or at least some other well-known slicer) as I recall wishing that Prusa would add it after seeing it somewhere else.
No kidding! I stopped using CURA about a year ago, except for some very specific situations. Didn’t realize that
Quoted from FantasticPinball:I am still hoping someone comes up with a rollover repair kit that I can 3D print.
Like what? Cut off bottom of existing rollover, screw 3d printed to bottom of pf, snap in new star?
I have Bally rollover in solidworks.
I'm not sure, i tend to think the fingers also center up the star. it might be too loose if just snapped on.
Although it is something to think about.
Quoted from BobLangelius:Something like this?
[quoted image][quoted image]
You would l=-also probably need to print a "dummy" (no barb) rollover star to get it centered properly for gluing.
I would suggest adding maybe three "pinchers" than fit over the spokes of the insert. It would not only add more gluing surface area, also mechanical support. It would complicate printing a little, but nothing that couldn't be managed.
Quoted from BobLangelius:The fingers are an idea, but then i can't keep the flat surface against the build plate...
Like I mentioned, should be easy to manage. If this is in F360 and you don't mind sharing the design files, I can take a crack at it and show how I would print.
Quoted from dudah:Remote monitoring, TSD will use AI to detect failed prints and automatically pause the printer, endless plugins and customization.
Printing from USB is fine, but it's way nicer to sit at my PC and use the webUI versus a little display and a little knob.
When making parts I often make multiple revisions and it's way more convenient to upload to the pi over the webUI versus swapping the USB back and forth.
The value for the entry price is incredible.
You won't regret it.
TSD uses AI to detect failed print, can you please elaborate? I'm not sure I've heard of this TSD acronym or capability before (which is a bummer, given that I work in AI...)
Quoted from Ashram56:TSD uses AI to detect failed print, can you please elaborate? I'm not sure I've heard of this TSD acronym or capability before (which is a bummer, given that I work in AI...)
Lol! it means "The Spaghetti detective". Not going to find that in your industry handbooks
I can't comment on how the the AI part works but it uses image recognition to detect failed "spaghetti" prints. I've never used it myself but people seem to have success with it.
Quoted from Anony:Lol! it means "The Spaghetti detective". Not going to find that in your industry handbooks
I can't comment on how the the AI part works but it uses image recognition to detect failed "spaghetti" prints. I've never used it myself but people seem to have success with it.
Just found it. A classic Yolo object detection DNN applied to 3d printing, nice.
The beauty is that they get the source data from the users, so you actually pay to get the capability, and they use the data you provide to improve the model, very neat development model. OK, they're not the first, Tesla did it as well, but still...
Thanks for the pointer, one learns every day
I just might use OctoPrint as an excuse to get a new Pi 4. I repurposed my old Pi 2 to track aircraft on FightRadar 24 since it was getting long in the tooth.
Quoted from BobLangelius:Something like this?
[quoted image][quoted image]
You would l=-also probably need to print a "dummy" (no barb) rollover star to get it centered properly for gluing.
This is brilliant. I would be happy to print one. I suspect you have already started a test.
Quoted from mbwalker:I just might use OctoPrint as an excuse to get a new Pi 4. I repurposed my old Pi 2 to track aircraft on FightRadar 24 since it was getting long in the tooth.
You can run Octoprint on an old android phone. I put it on my old Samsung s6 and it works fine for basic functionality. I could start prints and use the camera to keep an eye things but I haven't tried any of the plugins.
Quoted from RobF:Like I mentioned, should be easy to manage. If this is in F360 and you don't mind sharing the design files, I can take a crack at it and show how I would print.
I get the bumps idea and adding them is trivial. But then the surface that glues to the part will be off the build plate. I like to use the build plate for the flatness it imparts.
The parts are in solidworks. Pm for the files.
Quoted from BobLangelius:I get the bumps idea and adding them is trivial. But then the surface that glues to the part will be off the build plate. I like to use the build plate for the flatness it imparts.
The parts are in solidworks. Pm for the files.
Rats. No solidworks here
The added sections (thinking extruded rectangles on either side of the splines/spokes) would define the new bottom plane. The bridging needed would be really short and shouldn't need support if your printer and filament settings are reasonably dialed in. Or, you could flip it and add supports to the underside of the ring. Both should be easy methods to end up with a nice functional part.
Quoted from RobF:Rats. No solidworks here
The added sections (thinking extruded rectangles on either side of the splines/spokes) would define the new bottom plane. The bridging needed would be really short and shouldn't need support if your printer and filament settings are reasonably dialed in. Or, you could flip it and add supports to the underside of the ring. Both should be easy methods to end up with a nice functional part.
Yeah but it won't be nice and smooth either.
I can save into a bunch of formats Step Iges Etc. What can you use? I was pretty sure my graphic guy brought Solidworks directly into F360...
Or i can add the bosses and send it to you .stl
Quoted from BobLangelius:Yeah but it won't be nice and smooth either.
I can save into a bunch of formats Step Iges Etc. What can you use? I was pretty sure my graphic guy brought Solidworks directly into F360...
Or i can add the bosses and send it to you .stl
Off to PM....
Got suckered into buying 10 rolls of PLA on that website that was posted the other day.. so damn cheap. However I don't really need that much -- if anyone in the Seattle area wants a clear, white, or black roll or 1ea of all 3 shoot me a PM and we can meet up or you can swing by to pick them up at cost (8.99ea?).
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