Valencia, CA
Quoted from swinks:Is this what you want - will hold 6 balls
[quoted image]
That would work well I believe.
(Topic ID: 246329)
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High Speed
Williams, 1986
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Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:That would work well I believe.
I don't use thingiverse but keep all my models at Shapeways and a small range as a free download. Just register a Shapeways account and then use this link and you will see my range of free models. Only took a few minutes to print up - not to be on sold but print and enjoy for yourself or a mate.
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdownload&sort=newest
ignore the price that is if someone wants to buy one and that is mostly shapeways fee, it is a long part about 171mm long x 33mm wide x 20mm high. Share a picture if it worked for you.
under the description is a Download Product - which allows you to download the STL file.
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:Basically, yes. I started playing around in Tinkercad as well but for some reason I can’t find the void tool. Lol.
Right in front of you! 
pasted_image (resized).pngI truly appreciate that swinks! I’ve been on Shapeways in the past and know their process. I will download and print for myself. Thank you again!
Quoted from mbwalker:Right in front of you! [quoted image]
I did use that and figured it was a void tool. Why call it a hole though? Dumb. Honestly, I played around with it for a few minutes I had available today.
's-hertogenbosch
made a simple subway for my homebrew.
2 parts easily welded together with a 3d pen
files available on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4983824
If you need any other of my 3d printed parts from my homebrew just ask
homebrew topic: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargateseries-homebrew-pnp-pinball
2021-09-27 16.25.31 - Copy (resized).jpg2021-09-27 16.26.16 - Copy (resized).jpgQuoted from Kevin_LHeureux:Has anyone made a simple ball holder that can be place on a flat surface to hold pinballs while you're working on it? Those things are like soap.
I looked on Thingivierse but didn't see anything.
Like this?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ball-holders#post-3731175
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Tantrum to the rescue! Not exactly what you’re looking for but it will definitely work
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3269881
Funny, I was about to post the link - thanks for doing it for me.
I also like this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby/page/21#post-6537603
Also, the post above is great.
Post a question in the 3D thread, get a dozen different ways to solve your challenge.
Quoted from mbwalker:Right in front of you! [quoted image]
This was what I came up with yesterday when I first looked at TC for a few minutes. From here I would add some inclusions to remove material between the round sections to remove unnecessary material. I am printing swinks model now and will share that here when done.
Screen Shot 2021-10-07 at 11.50.38 AM (resized).pngQuoted from swinks:I don't use thingiverse but keep all my models at Shapeways and a small range as a free download. Just register a Shapeways account and then use this link and you will see my range of free models. Only took a few minutes to print up - not to be on sold but print and enjoy for yourself or a mate.
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdownload&sort=newest
ignore the price that is if someone wants to buy one and that is mostly shapeways fee, it is a long part about 171mm long x 33mm wide x 20mm high. Share a picture if it worked for you.
under the description is a Download Product - which allows you to download the STL file.
Thank you swinks! Printed your model and it works great. I used PLA 10% infill, probably could've gone 0 infill to save some time. Took approx. 2hrs to print. So much better than using a rag! I'll stick some thin adhesive-backed foam on the bottom for placing on glass and likely try one in TPU next.
IMG_7919 (resized).JPGIMG_7920 (resized).JPGQuoted from Rdoyle1978:Suddenly having some weird lifting issues on my Prusa. Any suggestions? I do not print using an enclosure (that may need to change)
I sanded the factory plate with 220 to scratch it up in a circular motion. Never had a single adhesion issue since, the slightly rough texture helps hold the filament.
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:Thank you swinks! Printed your model and it works great. I used PLA 10% infill, probably could've gone 0 infill to save some time. Took approx. 2hrs to print. So much better than using a rag! I'll stick some thin adhesive-backed foam on the bottom for placing on glass and likely try one in TPU next.
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great to hear, thanks for sharing
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:I'll stick some thin adhesive-backed foam on the bottom for placing on glass and likely try one in TPU next.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I also printed it, I taped mine to the coinbox, need to print them now in Silver for a better match. Maybe tape it to the inside of the coindoor.
20211008_085514 (resized).jpgQuoted from PeterG:Are you not removing the glass when taking the balls out?
I also printed it, I taped mine to the coinbox, need to print them now in Silver for a better match. Maybe tape it to the inside of the coindoor. [quoted image]
awesome good to see it is being used, great idea to put on the coin box
Quoted from gdonovan:Woot!
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Now get ready for a long learning process! Nothing by itself is hard, but just a million settings that any single one can cause issues, LOL. But it's a fun hobby. Frustrating at times tho. You'll get the hang of it, plus a lot of experience in this thread for help if needed.
Don't be discouraged about the long learning process either. My first benchy right out of the box printed wonderfully. I'm still learning tips and tricks all the time but you can get good prints right out of the box too!
Quoted from PeterG:Are you not removing the glass when taking the balls out?
I also printed it, I taped mine to the coinbox, need to print them now in Silver for a better match. Maybe tape it to the inside of the coindoor. [quoted image]
If I ever figure out a way to remove the balls without removing the glass I’ll let you know. 
I usually place the balls on the game next to it or a countertop. I just ordered a roll of TPU to test a print as well which will keep it from sliding on surfaces.
I like your idea of placing it on the coin box as well.
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:If I ever figure out a way to remove the balls without removing the glass I’ll let you know. I usually place the balls on the game next to it or a countertop. I just ordered a roll of TPU to test a print as well which will keep it from sliding on surfaces.
I like your idea of placing it on the coin box as well.
Just an opinion but for this application TPU would be way overkill and tough to print with the model printer you posted. TPU really needs a dual drive feed system and enclosure to pull off decent parts. For a simple ball holder a cheap PLA would be the way to go as it doesn't need to be flexible.
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:I usually place the balls on the game next to it or a countertop. I just ordered a roll of TPU to test a print as well which will keep it from sliding on surfaces.
I like your idea of placing it on the coin box as well.
I would just add a small lip to the base of that holder so it tucks under the lockbar.
Quoted from Yelobird:Just an opinion but for this application TPU would be way overkill and tough to print with the model printer you posted. TPU really needs a dual drive feed system and enclosure to pull off decent parts. For a simple ball holder a cheap PLA would be the way to go as it doesn't need to be flexible.
Thanks Yelo. Lot's of people print just fine with TPU on the Vyper. I've seen many posts on the Vyper groups about it. I'll give it a shot and see.
Quoted from mattosborn:I would just add a small lip to the base of that holder so it tucks under the lockbar.
Good idea
Needed a flash bulb holder for my Monday Night Football. Just gonna bend the leads to make contract.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5009241
5A51AF97-990A-4628-AC69-BA3D1470A5D6 (resized).jpegBBB77597-6205-4CBB-9031-EE832F1BD88E (resized).jpegI have an Ender 3 Pro and my hot end was failing and leaking. I have purchased an E3D V6 hot end and will be installing it with a Klemco bracket. All the pictures I see show it mounted with 2 50 X 15 fans, one on each side. The V6 comes with a fan mounted on a shroud installed on the heat sink. I'm currently only printing with PLA. Is this adequate for PLA or should I be upgrading to the larger fans on each side?
STD-Dual-Fan-and-STD-strain (resized).jpgI have remixed the Williams Pinball Opto Interrupter file in Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2597274 to work with the Judge Dredd left side flipper opto. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5013982/files
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:Well as I’ve been working on pins since I bought my first High Speed in high school 1989 it’s always been a pain dropping balls off lockbars. You tell the, to stay but they don’t always listen. I’d like to have a reasonable solution. Thinking of using TPU would be the way to go on this as well.
Ahh, OK. Looking at your other posts, you needed a place to rest the balls on the pin after taking the glass off, but putting the lock bar in place?
In case anyone is interested I printed one out with flexible TPU and it is the way to go. Really nice and rigid but with some malleability and will not scratch anything around it or break if it fell. I used a Vyper members Prusa TPU profile but still need to play around with retraction to make it flawless. Really though its a functional part so it is great as-is.
I printed some TPU glass protectors which also turned out great. I highly recommend printing both for your toolbox.
IMG_8032 (resized).JPGIMG_8036 (resized).JPGAnyone have a file for a clear nut for stern flipper buttons? I see one on thingiverse for a gottlieb, but not sure it will work. The metal one blocks too much light for lighted flipper buttons.
Quoted from Lermods:Anyone have a file for a clear nut for stern flipper buttons? I see one on thingiverse for a gottlieb, but not sure it will work. The metal one blocks too much light for lighted flipper buttons.
Please PM me to discuss.
Quoted from mbwalker:Ahh, OK. Looking at your other posts, you needed a place to rest the balls on the pin after taking the glass off, but putting the lock bar in place?
Not putting the bar back on. Simply placing the ball holder on the game next to it for safe storage while working.
Quoted from Lermods:Anyone have a file for a clear nut for stern flipper buttons? I see one on thingiverse for a gottlieb, but not sure it will work. The metal one blocks too much light for lighted flipper buttons.
I have one here that I've used with stern buttons from pinball life: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3715237/files. All the flipper buttons use the same nut.
Thx, mr. tantrum helped me out.
Quoted from latenite04:I have one here that I've used with stern buttons from pinball life: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3715237/files. All the flipper buttons use the same nut.
Quoted from epeabs:I have an Ender 3 Pro and my hot end was failing and leaking. I have purchased an E3D V6 hot end and will be installing it with a Klemco bracket. All the pictures I see show it mounted with 2 50 X 15 fans, one on each side. The V6 comes with a fan mounted on a shroud installed on the heat sink. I'm currently only printing with PLA. Is this adequate for PLA or should I be upgrading to the larger fans on each side?
The fan that comes with the hot end is only to cool the heatsink to prevent heat creep past the heatbreak. You'll still need a part cooling fan, especially with PLA. Bridges and such will be lousy without one.
Score motor coupler for Midway rifle games
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028646
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from gdonovan:First print, any suggestions?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What are you concerned about specifically? Is there a little lifting on the corners (not sure)? Or are you a little worried about this area being a little rough?
pasted_image (resized).png
Looks pretty good for a first print.
I have upgraded my Ender Pro with a new E3D V6 hotend since the original hotend started leaking. I've had a couple decent prints, but still seem to be having possibly an extruder issue. I had upgraded to the aluminum extruder early on and really didn't have any issues. My extruder now sometimes seems to be either not catching up with the hotend or is over supplying the hotend. It seems sometimes to "kick back" while extruding. Any thoughts? When I checked on the print that the two photos are of, the machine was still "printing" a bit above the surface, but not adhering and balling up. I am thinking this is more of an extruder issue?
20211025_222035 (resized).jpg20211025_222106 (resized).jpgQuoted from epeabs:I have upgraded my Ender Pro with a new E3D V6 hotend since the original hotend started leaking. I've had a couple decent prints, but still seem to be having possibly an extruder issue. I had upgraded to the aluminum extruder early on and really didn't have any issues. My extruder now sometimes seems to be either not catching up with the hotend or is over supplying the hotend. It seems sometimes to "kick back" while extruding. Any thoughts? When I checked on the print that the two photos are of, the machine was still "printing" a bit above the surface, but not adhering and balling up. I am thinking this is more of an extruder issue?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I wonder if the new hot end actually runs a bit cooler than your old one. If so, try upping the temperature in 5 degree steps to see if you get improvement.
I would also say try checking for clogs, but it’s a new nozzle isn’t it?
Quoted from Nokoro:I wonder if the new hot end actually runs a bit cooler than your old one. If so, try upping the temperature in 5 degree steps to see if you get improvement.
I would also say try checking for clogs, but it’s a new nozzle isn’t it?
Brand new genuine hotend. I will try that. It can't hurt. I had no issues so to speak with the stock hotend until it started leaking. I may also need to change "parameters" with the new hot end. I am printing items on my card that were printing fine with the stock hotend. Thanks Mark
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Thought this Clear Print might be interesting:
https://www.core77.com/posts/110386/The-Bonkers-3D-Prints-That-Stratasys-J8-Polyjets-Can-Produce?utm_source=core77&utm_medium=from_title[quoted image][quoted image]
Probably a high six figure printer required to produce those, but they are cool.
Quoted from epeabs:I have upgraded my Ender Pro with a new E3D V6 hotend since the original hotend started leaking. I've had a couple decent prints, but still seem to be having possibly an extruder issue. I had upgraded to the aluminum extruder early on and really didn't have any issues. My extruder now sometimes seems to be either not catching up with the hotend or is over supplying the hotend. It seems sometimes to "kick back" while extruding. Any thoughts? When I checked on the print that the two photos are of, the machine was still "printing" a bit above the surface, but not adhering and balling up. I am thinking this is more of an extruder issue?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Sure sounds like it's plugged up. What type of filament are your running and have been swapping types? Is the fan on the heat break running as expected? There are specific assembly instructions to make sure the nozzle seats correctly. Did you have any trouble there?
Quoted from epeabs:I have upgraded my Ender Pro with a new E3D V6 hotend
[quoted image][quoted image]
Did you tune your PID? https://3dprintbeginner.com/hotend-and-heatbed-pid-tuning/
Quoted from mbwalker:What are you concerned about specifically? Is there a little lifting on the corners (not sure)? Or are you a little worried about this area being a little rough?
[quoted image]
Looks pretty good for a first print.
Just surprised that area was a little rough.
Thank you, its gratifying to see something you drew on the screen come to life even if it is a simple box in a box.
Quoted from toyotaboy:Measure it with a calipers, make sure what you're printing is accurate.
Had not thought of that, will do. Not that it matters for this particular part but could for others I'm brewing in my head.
Quoted from gdonovan:Had not thought of that, will do. Not that it matters for this particular part but could for others I'm brewing in my head.
Checked, pretty much spot on.
Quoted from gdonovan:Just surprised that area was a little rough.
Thank you, its gratifying to see something you drew on the screen come to life even if it is a simple box in a box.
It does look like those flange areas lifted a bit, and that will cause the rough top surface. What does your first layer look like? The bottom of your print should be smooth, with all the little strings stuck together into one sheet, but not squished so much that the separate lines are crowded and wavy. Get that first layer dialed in, and I bet the top surface will look better.
Of course, if your first layer is already good, you might have a bed adhesion issue. I'm assuming you're using PLA filament?
Quoted from RobF:Sure sounds like it's plugged up. What type of filament are your running and have been swapping types? Is the fan on the heat break running as expected? There are specific assembly instructions to make sure the nozzle seats correctly. Did you have any trouble there?
I don't believe it is plugged up. I'm running Hatchbox PLA which I've had very good luck with. The fan on the heat sink is working just fine. I did the proper set up with the hot end by heating prior to tightening, etc.
Quoted from dudah:Did you tune your PID? https://3dprintbeginner.com/hotend-and-heatbed-pid-tuning/
I will check out this guide for tuning. I know I did not update any software on my Ender after installation
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