(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

2 years ago


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    There are 1083 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 22.
    #951 65 days ago
    Quoted from A_Bord:

    You guys that are running 5+ 3D printers all day every day: What are you printing? Curious who is actually out there making money with these things.

    There's plenty of videos on youtube of people running farms, their story how they got there etc

    #952 64 days ago
    Quoted from AMSNL:

    Hammerhead1550
    Both the prusa mini and and the 3s are perfect machines for what you need. A enclosed printer is most of the time better as it has less temperature swings, But is a bit bigger .
    I have about 5 printers in 1 room and to be honest the smell is almost none . Also most enclosed printers have a filter to get all the particles out the air. My suggestion is . Start off with let’s say a prusa mini/ender and try the printing. The reason is I say get a prusa/ ender is those do all you need almost right out of the box. If you get a unknow brand or cheap thingy. The adjustment part and bad prints can really get to you to bail on this verry quick.

    Quoted from jalpert:

    I do know one person who won't own a 3d printer because they think PLA is toxic. Of course, everything is relative. Anything and everything is technically a little bit toxic. When you get a printer, just don't freak out from the smell, most printers smell the first print or even two or three, but that goes away.
    I just recommended it, but the Anycubic Vyper is by far the best beginner 3d printer out there. The main thing it does better than any of the Creality stuff like the Ender 3 is that it has auto bed leveling that really works. It sounds so easy, but leveling your bed is by far the biggest pain for people new to 3d printing.
    The Prusa MK3 has less features and is $600 more, but you get really good support. The Vyper just works, 4 screws and a few plugs to assemble, real auto bed leveling, and is very reasonably priced. Prusa gets big money for support because nobody else really offers it. If you get a defective part in your Vyper, you will be expected to troubleshoot, they will send you a new part, but you will be expected to know how to install it.

    Tha thanks for the replies, the fumes were what was worrying me the most. Thanks for all the gpod suggestions, now I can do a little research and see which one I like best.

    #953 64 days ago

    Lots of pinball mods are 3D printed or contain 3D printed parts. My guess is, on here, people selling mods.

    Quoted from A_Bord:

    You guys that are running 5+ 3D printers all day every day: What are you printing? Curious who is actually out there making money with these things.

    #954 64 days ago
    Quoted from Hammerhead1550:

    Tha thanks for the replies, the fumes were what was worrying me the most. Thanks for all the gpod suggestions, now I can do a little research and see which one I like best.

    I don't even smell PLA (90+ % of my prints) and I don't smell PETG (5% or so of my prints) while printing. ABS (probably 1% of my prints) has a slight smell to it. PLA (polylactic acid) is made from natural materials like corn, and is biodegradable. However, they obviously add dyes and other things for stabilization, color, etc.

    #955 64 days ago

    Resin has a annoying smell so I enclosed mine and vented it outside. My 2 prusa mk3s units and my makerbot are soon to get the same treatment.

    129BCAAA-9750-447C-A0F9-F8E4567FB1D4 (resized).jpeg1A3D7A07-AF30-43D5-AB17-F9CA2A7378BC (resized).jpeg3ED09809-3CB8-4D1B-882E-E9EB48C91EC9 (resized).jpeg428B5F30-4051-4BD3-AD25-E1A9927A721C (resized).jpeg
    #956 64 days ago
    Quoted from wolffcub:

    I enclosed mine and vented it outside.

    Man, that's awesome! The printed coupler parts make it that much better. I've been thinking about venting mine outside as well, and it's cool to see your approach to it.

    #957 64 days ago
    Quoted from wolffcub:

    Resin has a annoying smell so I enclosed mine and vented it outside. My 2 prusa mk3s units and my makerbot are soon to get the same treatment.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    I used the same type of setup for my cat litter boxes, these fans work great and are super quiet. Nice work.

    #958 62 days ago

    My son has an Ender 3 and is having a problem. There are gaps between planes of printed pieces so they peel apart/crack when take them off. Cleaned the nozzle. Any other tips?

    #959 62 days ago
    Quoted from Crile1:

    My son has an Ender 3 and is having a problem. There are gaps between planes of printed pieces so they peel apart/crack when take them off. Cleaned the nozzle. Any other tips?

    What slicer does he use? Has it always done this or is this something new?

    A picture might help too, maybe someone can spot the issue.

    #960 62 days ago

    Ultimaker cura. image (resized).jpg

    #961 62 days ago

    We are thinking we need to get a new nozzle.

    #962 62 days ago
    Quoted from Crile1:

    My son has an Ender 3 and is having a problem. There are gaps between planes of printed pieces so they peel apart/crack when take them off. Cleaned the nozzle. Any other tips?

    Try upping the temperature in 5 degree increments to see if it solves the problem.

    #963 62 days ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Try upping the temperature in 5 degree increments to see if it solves the problem.

    Thanks. Will give it a try.

    #964 62 days ago
    Quoted from Crile1:

    My son has an Ender 3 and is having a problem. There are gaps between planes of printed pieces so they peel apart/crack when take them off. Cleaned the nozzle. Any other tips?

    that's underextrusion for sure. It could be a clogged nozzle, it could be a piece of filament stuck in the heatblock, it could be the thermistor isn't measuring the temperature correctly, it could be a kink in the bowden tube, it could be the gears aren't holding onto the filament tightly.

    #965 62 days ago

    This link discusses it, but the posts above pretty much covers it already (temperature, clogged nozzle).

    https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=5992

    Does this happen in the same place (i.e. If he prints the same piece, are the gaps in the same place)? Or is it random?

    #966 62 days ago

    If you are using PLA, set the printer for a much higher temp filament like ABS. Then proceed through a filament load routine and run some PLA through it 2 or 3 times. If not fully clogged (and sometimes even if fully clogged) the extreme heat will melt and force through the nozzle the lower melting temp PLA and "clean" the pathway.

    Also, at what temp are you currently printing? Assuming PLA, most want to be between 190 - 210 degrees C.

    #967 62 days ago

    I'd also suggest trying a different brand of filament or at least a different spool. I've had spools of filament with junk in them that would cause underextrusion due to nozzle clogs.

    A cold pull can sometimes be successful in getting debris out of the nozzle. Starting with the nozzle cold, release the extruder gears so that the filament is only held in place by the hardened filament in the nozzle. While pulling backward out of the extruder with medium force, heat up the extruder. I am usually able to pull the filament out at around 170, but that's not enough to make the filament really melt, so it traps any junk that may be stuck in the nozzle. At least that's what you're hoping for.

    #968 62 days ago

    Something not recommended nearly enough, calculate your esteps. If you are underextruding (likely the problem), this could be one reason. Here is one such article to set it: https://letsprint3d.net/how-to-calibrate-the-extruder-steps-ender-3-5-cr-10/

    Besides what others recommended, did this just start? Does this happen on every print? What temp is he printing at? Did he change the settings in Cura or is it the defaults?

    #969 62 days ago

    I'd also recommend doing this.
    Upgrade your bowden tube and the fittings and ensure it's all the way nudged against the nozzle.
    I was recently getting some inconsistent prints and clogs and this was it.

    #970 62 days ago
    Quoted from BrewNinja:

    Something not recommended nearly enough, calculate your esteps. If you are underextruding (likely the problem), this could be one reason. Here is one such article to set it: https://letsprint3d.net/how-to-calibrate-the-extruder-steps-ender-3-5-cr-10/
    Besides what others recommended, did this just start? Does this happen on every print? What temp is he printing at? Did he change the settings in Cura or is it the defaults?

    as much as making sure your e-steps are correct being important, I've NEVER found any manufacturer's printer to be off by more than 10 esteps by default which wouldn't have much effect considering pretty much every creality is set around 110. The only time I would check this is if I was replacing the stock extruder which could have a different gear ratio.

    #971 62 days ago

    Reading through the recent posts reminds me why this is by far the most frustrating hobby I’ve ever tried to pick up.

    #972 62 days ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    as much as making sure your e-steps are correct being important, I've NEVER found any manufacturer's printer to be off by more than 10 esteps by default which wouldn't have much effect considering pretty much every creality is set around 110. The only time I would check this is if I was replacing the stock extruder which could have a different gear ratio.

    I mean, if you don't care about dimensionally accurate parts, that's cool too But if there is an under-extrusion problem, it could be contributing. Even if its off by 10, thats a 9% difference (which when you take into account other things that affect the values, is a lot). That's the thing about 3d printing, all those little things add up. Maybe they are using someone elses profile in cura, and that person was over-extruding so they set the flow in cura to be less. Now its crazy off. Without getting some answers to the questions everyone has raised, its guess work.

    #973 62 days ago

    Just emphasizing that this is clearly underextrusion - overwhelmingly likely it’s just that there’s a blob of filament blocking the tube which is not quite melting enough. A “cold pull” should help address this

    This is yet another reason why I hated the Ender3, this happened to me ALL the time, finally I replaced the Bowden tube and bought cross cutters to ensure it was a perfectly flat cut, and it still occurred. I suspect the heating block had a flaw.

    #974 62 days ago

    The original ender3's had terrible bowden fittings. The newer ones are fine, and actually come with a little plastic piece you jam in between the fitting and the tube release. If that isnt there, or you have an original, then there were issues. Not so much now. However, if you didn't assemble it correctly, then yeah, could be an issue.

    #975 62 days ago
    Quoted from BrewNinja:

    I mean, if you don't care about dimensionally accurate parts, that's cool too But if there is an under-extrusion problem, it could be contributing. Even if its off by 10, thats a 9% difference (which when you take into account other things that affect the values, is a lot). That's the thing about 3d printing, all those little things add up. Maybe they are using someone elses profile in cura, and that person was over-extruding so they set the flow in cura to be less. Now its crazy off. Without getting some answers to the questions everyone has raised, its guess work.

    I'm just saying esteps typically would have the least effect, plus esteps don't just suddenly change on their own. If you're suddenly having underextruding while printing, most likely it's a mechanical issue.

    #976 61 days ago

    Well, maybe they always were? Hard to say. We have very little info to go on. Until we hear back, not much we can do but speculate.

    #977 61 days ago
    Quoted from Crile1:

    Thanks. Will give it a try.

    Enable ironing & purge your line.

    #978 60 days ago

    Well I took the plunge and bought my first 3d printer, an Anycubic Vyper., thanks to the guys who recommended it to me. My question is what is a good type/brand of filament to use, and where are some good places to buy it? I'm getting a Munsters pin from the current run and I want to print a reinforcement someone uploaded to thingverse that keeps the ball from bending the rail next to the spot opto, so for that I'll need something that will be durable. Someone said PLS+. Anyway I appreciate any help or suggestions, I don't want to waste money on buying bad filament. Thanks guys

    #979 60 days ago
    Quoted from Hammerhead1550:

    Well I took the plunge and bought my first 3d printer, an Anycubic Vyper., thanks to the guys who recommended it to me. My question is what is a good type/brand of filament to use, and where are some good places to buy it? I'm getting a Munsters pin from the current run and I want to print a reinforcement someone uploaded to thingverse that keeps the ball from bending the rail next to the spot opto, so for that I'll need something that will be durable. Someone said PLS+. Anyway I appreciate any help or suggestions, I don't want to waste money on buying bad filament. Thanks guys

    Really, PLA will be just fine. PLA+ isn't really standardized, so it can be kind of a pain. I used Hatchbox typically, which is a little pricier than others I'm finding out, so I'm thinking about switching. Ever since I got a self-leveling printer, i don't really worry about the filament. Amazon "basics" has LOTS of stuff, but others have said the quality can be spotty. I've not had too many issues - other than issues with breakage or too much moisture when I've let the filament sit out too long.

    #980 60 days ago

    I’ve had good luck with Sunlu PLA.

    #981 60 days ago

    Mostly, any stuff for about $20 a roll is about the same.

    If you are printing functional parts consider PETG. It prints almost as easy as PLA (more stringing usually and prints hotter) but is stronger. But get yourself feet wet with PLA

    Also, the Vyper has a volcano style hotend, I would start at around 190 degrees for PLA, which is on the low end. You could probably get away with 180, but prints won’t fail if you are printing a little too hot.

    Also, get a raspberry pi and configure octoprint.

    Quoted from Hammerhead1550:

    Well I took the plunge and bought my first 3d printer, an Anycubic Vyper., thanks to the guys who recommended it to me. My question is what is a good type/brand of filament to use, and where are some good places to buy it? I'm getting a Munsters pin from the current run and I want to print a reinforcement someone uploaded to thingverse that keeps the ball from bending the rail next to the spot opto, so for that I'll need something that will be durable. Someone said PLS+. Anyway I appreciate any help or suggestions, I don't want to waste money on buying bad filament. Thanks guys

    #982 60 days ago

    I've probably tried a dozen or so different brands of PLA on my Prusa MK3s. Some I love, others I like, and still others are trash. My personal favorite brands based on quality, consistency, ease to work with, and color are as follows:

    #1 | Prusament (By far #1 for me. Cheapest if you order in increments of 2 spools at a time due to shipping) | https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/42-prusament?orderby=name&orderway=asc

    These you can all get on Amazon
    #2 | 3D Solutech
    #3 | Gizmo Dorks
    #4 | Hatchbox
    #5 | Amolen
    #6 | eSun

    As a point of reference, I'm a hobby printer who also creates and sells 3D mods (mostly pinball, but not exclusively). I currently have about 20 different rolls of filament in my cabinet that I use for various things, I can't guess how many dozens of spools I've gone through over the last several years.

    However, my opinion is just that. I'm not providing any objective analysis of what filament is best and why. All I know is that I want something that prints consistently, results in high detailed prints, has good opaque color (unless I'm wanting translucent), is of consistent quality and sizing, etc. Also, if you want "clear" PLA (really a misnomer) I've tried 6 or 7 different brands/kinds. By far the clearest PLA I've found is 3D Solutech's "Premium PLA" (not their standard PLA). Most all clear PLA filament is milky, but this stuff as very clear on the spool and still pretty clear in thin layers.

    Also, the common wisdom is that PETG is stronger than PLA. This has been proven to be false in numerous comparison tests. There are multiple factors related to strength including infill, perimeter layers, grain direction related to stress, etc. What PETG does have, however, is a much higher melting point so it is good for objects that will be in hotter use environments before it softens (ABS is even more resistant to heat, and there are even other blends beyond ABS for stronger mechanical parts). PETG also does have more flex. However, depending upon just how much flex you may need a PLA model printed with the right infill can give you plenty of flex. Don't get me wrong, PETG still has it's place and is a great material. It is a little harder to work with (primarily nailing down the settings for a good first layer), sticks to the bed a lot more so can be difficult to release, etc.

    90-95% of what I print is PLA, 5% PETG, and the occasional ABS part. PLA is by far the easiest material to work with when you are learning, so I'd by a couple of common colors (black, silver, white, whatever) and start learning how to print 3D objects.

    #983 60 days ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    I've probably tried a dozen or so different brands of PLA on my Prusa MK3s. Some I love, others I like, and still others are trash. My personal favorite brands based on quality, consistency, ease to work with, and color are as follows:
    #1 | Prusament (By far #1 for me. Cheapest if you order in increments of 2 spools at a time due to shipping) | https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/42-prusament?orderby=name&orderway=asc
    These you can all get on Amazon
    #2 | 3D Solutech
    #3 | Gizmo Dorks
    #4 | Hatchbox
    #5 | Amolen
    #6 | eSun
    As a point of reference, I'm a hobby printer who also creates and sells 3D mods (mostly pinball, but not exclusively). I currently have about 20 different rolls of filament in my cabinet that I use for various things, I can't guess how many dozens of spools I've gone through over the last several years.
    However, my opinion is just that. I'm not providing any objective analysis of what filament is best and why. All I know is that I want something that prints consistently, results in high detailed prints, has good opaque color (unless I'm wanting translucent), is of consistent quality and sizing, etc. Also, if you want "clear" PLA (really a misnomer) I've tried 6 or 7 different brands/kinds. By far the clearest PLS I've found is 3D Solutech's "Premium PLA" (not their standard PLA). Most all clear PLA filament is milky, but this stuff as very clear on the spool and still pretty clear in thin layers.
    Also, the common wisdom is that PETG is stronger than PLA. This has been proven to be false in numerous comparison tests. There are multiple factors related to strength including infill, perimeter layers, grain direction related to stress, etc. What PETG does have, however, is a much higher melting point so it is good for objects that will be in hotter use environments before it softens (ABS is even more resistant to heat, and there are even other blends beyond ABS for stronger mechanical parts). PETG also does have more flex. However, depending upon just how much flex you may need a PLA printed with the right infill can give you plenty of flex. Don't get me wrong, PETG still has it's place and is a great material. It is a little harder to work with (primarily nailing down the settings for a good first layer), sticks to the bed a lot more so can be difficult to release, etc.
    90-95% of what I print is PLA, 5% PETG, and the occasional ABS part. PLA is by far the easiest material to work with when you are learning, so I'd by a couple of common colors (black, silver, white, whatever) and start learning how to print 3D objects.

    Thanks to everyone that responded, and thanks Mr_tantrum, this is exactly what I needed.

    #984 60 days ago
    Quoted from Hammerhead1550:

    Thanks to everyone that responded, and thanks Mr_tantrum, this is exactly what I needed.

    You're welcome, but just remember I'm only one opinion.

    #985 59 days ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    You're welcome, but just remember I'm only one opinion.

    I know but you and the others have given me a good place to start. I'll have to do some research on a raspberry pi like jalpert sugessted.

    #986 59 days ago

    I uploaded the top hat I made in tinkercad last year to thingiverse. It's on the Willy Wonka thread but thought I'd post it up here as well.
    It's in the lower right of the attached picture. It has a solid version and a separate hat band version to use different color pla.
    File is here. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4939123
    r/
    Mike

    20210202_151117 (Medium) (resized).jpg
    #987 59 days ago

    That top hat looks great! Good job!

    #988 55 days ago

    Anyone have a design for a vertical up kicker?

    I saw this one, which is supposed to be part of America's Most Haunted, but it's not in their open source 3D print download.

    https://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:3d-7.jpg

    1 week later
    24
    #989 49 days ago

    I cant share enough thanks to Mr.Tantrum for reaching out and helping me with printing this project.
    The personal therapy to assemble this, and achieve something complete is and was a huge help in my recovery from a stroke.

    I wanted to share my public thanks to Chris, and share the printed completion!
    20210823_152826 (resized).jpg20210823_152906 (resized).jpg20210823_152928 (resized).jpg

    #990 48 days ago

    That’s pretty awesome.

    #991 48 days ago

    The question is now that you've built it, can you actually solve it?

    #992 48 days ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    The question is now that you've built it, can you actually solve it?

    Sometimes.....Here is a spoiler solution vid:

    #993 44 days ago
    Quoted from mjenison:

    Anyone have a design for a vertical up kicker?
    I saw this one, which is supposed to be part of America's Most Haunted, but it's not in their open source 3D print download.
    https://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:3d-7.jpg

    Tjee what a massive overkill is that upkicker. The pinball mechs I designed are normally using 4 to 5 mm walls in ABS plastic. That is plenty strong.

    1 week later
    #994 36 days ago

    Can anyone scan the Big Shot figure from Dr. Dude or does the STL file exists already? If so any advice where it can be found so I can actually get one for my Dr. Dude pin that is completely missing it?

    1 week later
    #995 25 days ago

    I am looking for a mug/cup holder that can hold a wide enameled cup. I have both the Pin-Buddy and the PinGulp 3.0 (both great), but neither can hold my favorite cup to drink whisky out of. So, I am hoping that maybe someone has 3D design/printed one. Thanks. Damn it’s thick!

    B2B2F9BD-2E2A-4602-B1CA-EB2E6811DE48 (resized).jpegBE4BF81D-6617-4E15-9E1B-402C80778C80 (resized).jpegCB222AE3-962C-4802-86B8-00A767A38CC5 (resized).jpeg
    #996 25 days ago
    Quoted from SirMachismo:

    I am looking for a mug/cup holder that can hold a wide enameled cup. I have both the Pin-Buddy and the PinGulp 3.0 (both great), but neither can hold my favorite cup to drink whisky out of. So, I am hoping that maybe someone has 3D design/printed one. Thanks. Damn it’s thick!
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    I am just learning CAD and i thought this might be something to test. But i got confused about dimensions and how you want to attach it.
    The thing i did is all in one part you can not modify how to mount it. But i hope it still works for you.
    It has a hole of 10cm in diameter i am not sure if this is enough for you.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4974926

    #997 25 days ago
    Quoted from YippieKiYay:

    Can anyone scan the Big Shot figure from Dr. Dude or does the STL file exists already? If so any advice where it can be found so I can actually get one for my Dr. Dude pin that is completely missing it?

    I second that,I was just going to ask the same thing. I can't believe it hasn't been done yet.

    #998 25 days ago
    Quoted from Viggin900:

    I second that,I was just going to ask the same thing. I can't believe it hasn't been done yet.

    can't you export the mesh from the vpx virtual table?
    you would only need to install the VPX-Software. Load the Table. Find and mark the Bigshot Figure.
    I think there is an option to export the Mesh into OBJ file Format, that can be converted into STL.

    #999 25 days ago
    Quoted from cabal:

    I am just learning CAD and i thought this might be something to test. But i got confused about dimensions and how you want to attach it.
    The thing i did is all in one part you can not modify how to mount it. But i hope it still works for you.
    It has a hole of 10cm in diameter i am not sure if this is enough for you.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4974926

    I will give it a shot and let you know. I print at my library (it is so awesome they let you reserve it), so it may be a a week or two. Thank you so much!

    #1000 18 days ago
    Quoted from cabal:

    I am just learning CAD and i thought this might be something to test. But i got confused about dimensions and how you want to attach it.
    The thing i did is all in one part you can not modify how to mount it. But i hope it still works for you.
    It has a hole of 10cm in diameter i am not sure if this is enough for you.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4974926

    I love it! Drinking whiskey with my favorite cup and playing pinball has never been better. It fits perfectly, shout out to the folks at the Loveland Pubic Libary for always being game to 3D print things for me! A 3D print of the toilet to South Park is currently going as I type this message. This is what 3D printing was made for! Cabal, thank you so much, you are the best!
    -Lb
    E54D3BD3-7856-4342-9E15-258E0E238A13 (resized).jpeg75BABAA8-3497-418B-8D27-4CE80472A40A (resized).jpeg1F3AA9B0-9F54-4BC7-A26F-BC8FD9D11090 (resized).jpeg9F694050-29F9-4B3A-98F1-69C616D35BEF (resized).jpeg

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